In Search of the Perfect Loaf: A Home Baker's Odyssey (40 page)

development of, 30, 102–3, 118, 165, 209, 250

protein in, 102–3, 158, 174–77, 207, 268, 271

sensitivity to, 173–77, 212–13, 268

strengthening of, 31, 197–98, 248–49

translucence of, 96

gluten-free baking, 134, 148, 212–13

Gobbetti, Mario, 212–13

Göbekli Tepe (Turkey), 144–45

Golden Buffalo flour, 163, 165

Good Bread Is Back
(Kaplan), 49

Gosselin, Philippe, 36

grains, 11

artisan, 183

diversity of, 127–30, 133, 140–41, 259–60

health benefits of, 137–39

history of, 130–46, 252

identity-preserved, 187

locally grown, 130, 145, 240–48, 260

markets for, 157, 159, 162, 246

prices of, 162, 247

winnowing of, 163

See also specific types

grapes, 43, 70, 73–74, 76, 78–79, 91, 145

Great Plains, 148, 157–60, 188, 244–45, 252, 269

Greece, 179

Green Revolution, 169–72, 176

Gural, Roger, 13

Hamelman, Jeffrey, 72, 82, 129–30, 149, 153, 195, 251

Hart, Richard, 95–97, 110–11, 113, 115

Healea, Tim, 117, 258–59

Heartland Mill, 156, 159–66, 187, 247, 249

heritage/heirloom wheat, 140–41, 147–48, 159, 173, 178, 231–32, 245–46, 253

Hippocrates, 137

Hodgson Mill, 217, 220

honey, 71–72, 77–78, 86–87, 205, 233, 267

Hungary, 30

Hungry Ghost Bread, 246

immigrants, 4, 6–7, 157, 159, 161

Independent Baking Co., 165

India, 147, 169–71, 204

industrial bread making, 31–35, 69–70, 98, 104, 156, 158, 213, 251

insects, 80–81.
See also
fruit flies; wasps

Inside the Jewish Bakery
(Ginsberg and Berg), 193, 202

International Maize and Wheat Improvement Center, 170.
See also
CIMMYT

Iran, 76, 78, 141, 147, 173

Iraq, 141

Israel, 141, 179, 181, 268

Italian Baker
,
The
(Field), 93

Italian bread, 5–6, 83–84, 93–94, 96, 105, 113, 117, 132–33, 140, 258

Italy, 76, 84, 132, 179, 212, 292

Japan, 107, 169

Jerf el Ahmar (Syria), 144

Jewish bread, 192–95, 202, 216

Jones, Stephen, 245

Jordan, 141, 143, 268

Journal of Theoretical and Applied Genetics
, 175

Kamir, Basil, 8

Kamut bread, 100, 259, 270

KanKing wheat, 155

Kansas, 155–57, 159–62, 164–65, 170, 244, 246

Kaplan, Steven, 27–28, 30, 32–33, 38, 40, 42, 49, 52, 138–39

Katz, Sol, 77

Kayser, Éric, 37, 41, 49

King Arthur flour, 16, 129, 217, 251, 264, 291

kneading, 9

folding method of, 39, 55–56, 102

by hand, 19, 28–29, 80, 194, 254

by machine, 31–32, 194

and “no knead” technique, 30, 83

Kneading Conference, 261

Kochko, Patrick de, 228

Koehn, Karlan, 167–68

Krankl, Manfred, 69

La Brea Bakery, 69–70, 91.
See also
Silverton, Nancy

La Farm Bakery, 94

La Maison Pichard, 42–49

lactic acid bacteria (
Lactobacilli
), 79–84, 86, 112, 144, 165, 205, 210–14, 220, 234, 267, 270

Lahey, Jim, 30, 83–84

Lajoie, Gabrielle, 242–43

Lakview Organic Grain, 148, 184

lame
(curved razor), 25, 61, 122, 191, 254, 270

landraces, 130–31, 140–41, 145, 157–58, 170–77, 179, 181, 183, 270

Lapidus, Jennifer, 246

Las Vegas Convention Center, 98–99

Lawn, C. R., 180

Le Nouvel Observateur
, 26

Leader, Daniel, 8, 50, 68–69, 85, 117

Lebovitz, David, 153

Leonard, Thom, 165, 246

Les Maîtres de Mon Moulin
, 228

levain
(sourdough), 16, 29, 41, 48–49, 52–54, 60, 66, 92, 95, 110–12, 187, 230–31, 234, 236, 272

Levy, Henry, 192

Levy’s Jewish Rye, 192, 194

Libeskind, Daniel, 196

Lithuania, 193

Little T American Baker, 117, 258–59

Local Breads
(Leader), 117

locavore movement, 218, 244

Los Angeles, California, 69–70

MacGuire, James, 29

Madison, Wisconsin, 37–38

Maillard reaction, 35, 53, 270–71

Maine, 92, 128, 140, 180, 182–83, 245–46, 261

Maine Grains, 246

Marienthal, Kansas, 160–61

Martens, Klaas and Mary-Howell, 128, 148–49, 184–85

Maryland, 128, 240–41, 244–45, 247

Massachusetts, 92, 177, 179, 244–46

McGovern, Patrick, 78–79

Mennonites, 157, 161

Meunier, Gérard, 33–35

Mexico, 170–71

miche
, 33, 36, 48, 67, 187–91, 252

Middle East, 77–78, 128, 175

millet, 73, 127, 131, 140

milling, 104, 165, 209

of all-purpose flour, 16–17, 158

early history of, 134–37, 139, 141–42, 144

and flavor, 254, 260

in France, 32–36, 43, 227–28

in Great Plains, 156–57, 159, 167

by hand, 100, 135–37, 144, 149

mechanically, 139, 159, 162–64, 251

and nutrients, 214, 249

regulation of, 138

of rye, 195, 197–98, 205, 214–15, 217

using stone mills, 197–98, 217, 227–28, 230–31, 246, 249, 251–53

and white bread, 138–39, 186

See also
specific mills

mixing dough, 54

direct method of, 29–30

by “feel,” 113–16

by hand, 9, 38–39, 99, 101–2, 113–14, 118, 217, 249, 251

intensively, 52, 76, 156, 158

mechanically, 22, 24, 29–30, 31–33, 45, 69, 102, 104, 194, 205–7, 236, 251

minimally, 29, 35, 44, 49, 236

steel troughs for, 42–44, 205

Moullé, Pierre, 120

Nathan, Joan, 51–53, 91

National Academy of Sciences, 168, 171

Natural History
(Pliny the Elder), 73

natural leaven, 15–16, 19, 50, 54, 67, 121, 198, 272

Near East, 147

Nebraska, 159, 244, 264

Neolithic farmers, 142–46, 171, 184–85

New York, 246, 259

New York City, 92, 133, 193, 216

Next Step Produce, 242

Nightengale, Mark, 156, 160–64, 166–67

Nora’s Restaurant, 247

Northampton, Massachusetts, 246

Norway, 172, 174

Norwich, Vermont, 129, 291

oats, 127, 131, 149, 202, 248

Oregon State University, 74

organic

bread, 205

flour, 145–46, 162, 166–68, 220, 228, 247

grains, 128, 148–49, 162

sourdough, 127

wheat, 166–68, 228–29, 267

See also
farming: organic

Ortiz, Joe, 8, 55

“oven spring,” 11, 25, 50, 68, 97, 103, 105, 120, 190, 238

ovens, 11, 261

builders of, 93, 109

earthen, 261–62

professional, 53, 109–11

ovens (
cont.
)

steam-injected, 20, 30, 51, 97, 105, 111, 201, 218

wood-fired, 33, 41–42, 44, 46–47, 92–100, 105, 108–9, 111–12, 129–30, 153

pain de campagne
, 85, 100, 117–19, 187, 254

pan-loaf bread, 156, 158, 202, 217–18, 220

pane casareccio di Genzano
, 117, 119–20

Panorama bakery, 53

Paris, France, 36, 94

best baguettes in, 21, 38, 42

bread baking history of, 18–19, 29, 138

bread tradition renewed in, 2, 8, 33

competitions in, 99, 106–7

and
fabrication en direct
, 29–30

making baguettes in, 3, 14, 18, 21–22, 24–27, 29, 38–40, 53, 238–39