Ready for Dessert (23 page)

Spread the sugar in an even layer in a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan and cook over medium heat without stirring until the sugar begins to melt around the edges. Using a heatproof utensil, slowly drag the liquified sugar to the center and stir gently until all the sugar is melted. Continue to cook, stirring infrequently, until the caramel turns dark amber in color and begins to foam a bit. Quickly remove the pan from the heat and immediately add the cream. The mixture will steam and bubble up vigorously, then the bubbling will subside. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean and add them to the saucepan, then drop in the pod. Stir the mixture over low heat until the caramel is smooth.

In a large bowl, whisk the egg yolks. Gradually whisk in about one-quarter of the warm caramel mixture, whisking constantly as you pour to prevent the yolks from cooking. Gradually whisk in the remaining caramel mixture, the espresso, vanilla, and salt. Pour the mixture through a mesh strainer into a large measuring cup or pitcher. (The
vanilla pod
can be rinsed, dried, and used for another purpose.) Divide the custard mixture evenly among the ramekins.

Fill the roasting pan or baking dish with warm water to reach halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Cover the pan tightly with aluminum foil and bake until the perimeters of the custards are just set and the centers are still slightly jiggly, about 35 minutes.

Transfer the custards from the water bath to a wire rack and let cool completely. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to serve.

SERVING:
Top the custards with dollops of
whipped cream
if you wish, and sprinkle with
chocolate shavings
crushed coffee beans, or a bit of finely ground espresso.

STORAGE:
The baked custards will keep for up to 2 days in the refrigerator.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

This is the French classic that everyone knows and loves. I’ve resisted doing anything to change it, except be more generous with the chocolate than the pastry chef in the average Parisian bistro.
Excusez-moi,
but I like chocolate so much that I just couldn’t help myself.

This recipe is a good place to use top-notch chocolate, French or otherwise. You won’t regret it when your spoon cuts through the glossy surface and dives into the smooth custard below. For best results, use a high-percentage dark chocolate, one that’s 60 to 70 percent cacao.

7 ounces (200 g) bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped

2 cups (500 ml) half-and-half

3 tablespoons (45 g) sugar

1 teaspoon instant espresso or coffee powder (optional)

Pinch of salt

6 large egg yolks

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Set six 4- to 6-ounce (125- to 180-ml) ramekins or custard cups in a roasting pan or deep baking dish.

Put the chocolate in a large heatproof bowl. In a medium saucepan, heat the half-and-half, sugar, instant espresso or coffee powder, if using, and salt until quite hot, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Pour the hot half-and-half mixture over the chocolate and whisk until the chocolate is completely melted and smooth. Let cool until tepid, then whisk in the egg yolks and the vanilla. (If the mixture looks at all grainy, whisk well or purée in a blender until smooth.)

Transfer the custard mixture to a large measuring cup or pitcher and divide evenly among the ramekins.

Fill the roasting pan or baking dish with warm water to reach halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Cover the pan tightly with aluminum foil and bake until the perimeters of the custards are just set and the centers are still slightly jiggly, about 35 minutes.

Transfer the custards from the water bath to a wire rack and let cool.

SERVING:
Serve slightly warm or at room temperature, garnished with small mounds of
whipped cream
and
chocolate shavings
.

STORAGE:
The custard mixture can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 days before baking. Once baked, the custards can be chilled for up to 2 days (although they’re much better when they haven’t been refrigerated). Bring them to room temperature before serving.

MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS

The surprising zip of fruit chutney counters the richness of
mousse au chocolat
and adds a whole other dimension to this unconventional dessert. I don’t know if it’s a combination the French would approve of, but when I made it as a pastry chef on a cruise line, a few thousand people gave their consent. Each plate that came back to the kitchen was scraped clean. Unlike traditional chocolate mousse that uses uncooked eggs, this one has a cooked custard base. So, there’s no reason for anyone with concerns about consuming raw eggs to jump ship rather than dive into this dessert full-steam ahead.

CHUTNEY

10 dried pear halves (10 ounces/280 g), cut into ½-inch (1.5-cm) dice

8 to 12 dried figs (12 ounces/340 g), stemmed, halved, and cut into ¼-inch (6-mm) slices

1 cup (250 ml) water

⅔ cup (140 g) packed light or dark brown sugar

2 tablespoons (30 ml) apple cider vinegar

Four 1-inch (3-cm) strips lemon zest, preferably organic

1 cinnamon stick

Pinch of ground cloves

1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise

2 tablespoons (30 ml) whiskey or Cognac

MOUSSE

10 ounces (280 g) bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped

¾ cups (180 ml) whole milk

2 tablespoons (30 g) granulated sugar

4 large egg yolks

2 teaspoons rum or Cognac

½ cup (125 ml) heavy cream

To make the chutney, combine the pears, figs, water, brown sugar, vinegar, lemon peel, cinnamon stick, and cloves in a medium saucepan. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean and add them to the saucepan, then drop in the pod. Bring to a boil over high heat, then decrease the heat to medium-low and simmer until most of the liquid is absorbed, about 8 minutes.

Remove from the heat and stir in the whiskey or Cognac. Remove the vanilla pod and lemon peel. (The
vanilla pod
can be rinsed, dried, and used for another purpose.) Let cool to room temperature.

To make the mousse, put the chocolate in a large heatproof bowl and set a mesh strainer across the top.

In a medium saucepan, heat the milk and granulated sugar, stirring to dissolve the sugar. In a medium bowl, whisk the egg yolks. Gradually whisk in about one-quarter of the warm milk, whisking constantly as you pour to prevent the yolks from cooking. Scrape the mixture back into the saucepan and cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until the custard is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Immediately pour the custard through the strainer into the chocolate. Whisk gently until the chocolate has melted and the mixture is smooth, then stir in the rum or Cognac. Let cool completely, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until chilled.

In a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment or in a bowl by hand, whisk the cream until it forms soft peaks. Fold about one-third of the chilled chocolate mixture into the whipped cream, then add this mixture to the remaining chocolate and fold just until there are no streaks of cream. Cover with plastic wrap and chill for at least 2 hours.

Serve the mousse in individual glasses or dishes with big spoonfuls of the chutney on top.

STORAGE:
The chutney will keep in the refrigerator for up to 1 month. The mousse will keep in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

MAKES ONE 9-INCH (23-CM) TART; 8 TO 10 SERVINGS

This tart exemplifies what the French do best: combine just a few top-quality ingredients, doing as little to them as possible. Ganache is a mélange of cream and chocolate, reportedly named after a young baker who accidentally spilled some cream into the chocolate the chef was melting. The chef called him a
ganache,
which is slang for “idiot,” but when he stirred in the cream, they realized the mistake was probably one of the most brilliant things to ever happen to chocolate.

10 ounces (280 g) bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped

1 cup (250 ml) heavy cream or half-and-half

1 large egg

1 large egg yolk

2 teaspoons Cognac

Prebaked tart shell

Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C).

In a large heatproof bowl, combine the chocolate and cream or half-and-half. Set the bowl over a pan of simmering water, stirring occasionally until the chocolate is melted and the mixture is smooth.

Remove the bowl from the saucepan and whisk in the egg, egg yolk, and Cognac. Pour the mixture into the prebaked tart shell, tilting and shaking it very gently to even out the filling.

Set the tart pan on a baking sheet and bake until the filling looks almost set but still quivers when the tart is gently jiggled, about 20 minutes. Don’t overbake. Let cool completely.

Remove the tart pan sides by setting the tart on an overturned bowl or other tall, wide surface (a large can of tomatoes works well). Gently press down on the outer ring and let the ring fall to the countertop. Set the tart on a flat surface. Release the tart from the pan bottom by sliding the blade of a knife between the crust and the pan bottom, then slip the tart onto a serving plate. (If it doesn’t release cleanly, simply serve the tart on the pan bottom.)

SERVING:
Whipped cream
is one possible accompaniment to a wedge of this delectable tart, but
Caramel Ice Cream
dials up the richness. Or, a scribble of
Orange Caramel Sauce
will add a pleasant citrusy note.

STORAGE:
The tart should be served the same day it’s made. Keep it at room temperature until ready to serve.

MAKES 8 SERVINGS

Many countries have a version of caramelized custard turned out of its mold for serving—from Mexico’s flan to France’s
crème renversée
. No border seems to be a barrier to the migration of this universally popular dessert.

Cardamom is rather an exotic spice, but it is sometimes used in classic American coffee cakes and other familiar baked goods. Do not buy preground cardamom because its flavor dissipates quickly and you’ll miss the wonderful aroma released by cracking the seeds yourself. Oftentimes, cardamom seeds are sold still in their papery husks or pods, which should be peeled away to reveal the seeds within.

CUSTARD

1 teaspoon cardamom seeds

3 cups (750 ml) whole milk

Grated zest of 2 oranges, preferably organic

¾ cup (150 g) sugar

3 large eggs

3 large egg yolks

CARAMEL

¾ cup (150 g) sugar

¼ cup (60 ml) plus ¼ cup (60 ml) water

Pinch of cream of tartar or a few drops of lemon juice

To make the custard, lightly crush the cardamom seeds in a mortar and pestle or seal them inside a sturdy plastic bag and crush them with a rolling pin.

In a medium saucepan, heat the milk, crushed cardamom seeds, orange zest, and ¾ cup (150 g) sugar, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Once warm, remove from the heat, cover, and let steep for 1 hour.

Set eight 4- to 6-ounce (125- to 180-ml) ramekins or custard cups in a roasting pan or deep baking dish.

To make the caramel, spread the ¾ cup (150 g) sugar in an even layer in a medium heavy-bottomed skillet or saucepan. Pour ¼ cup (60 ml) water evenly over the sugar to dampen it, but don’t stir. Cook over medium heat until the sugar dissolves, then add the cream of tartar or lemon juice. Continue to cook without stirring, but swirl the pan if the sugar begins to brown unevenly. When the caramel turns dark amber in color and begins to foam a bit, remove from the heat and immediately add the remaining ¼ cup (60 ml) water. The caramel will bubble up vigorously, then the bubbling will subside. Stir with a heatproof utensil until any hardened bits of caramel completely dissolve. Divide the hot caramel evenly among the 8 ramekins, then carefully swirl each ramekin so that the caramel coats the sides halfway up. Let cool completely.