The Ancestral Table: Traditional Recipes for a Paleo Lifestyle (23 page)

Lemongrass Pork Chops
(Sườn Nướng)

Aside from Pho (
see here
) and possibly the vermicelli dish bún, lemongrass pork chops are one of the most identifiable dishes in Vietnamese cuisine. While the combination of fish sauce and pork may sound unappetizing, the finished product is anything but.

For a truly authentic experience, look for thinly sliced pork chops at your local Asian market, or ask your butcher to cut some pork chops to 1/4" thickness—one standard American-sized pork chop yields three thin chops.

SERVES:
4
PREP TIME:
10 MINUTES PLUS OVERNIGHT
COOKING TIME:
30 MINUTES

3 STALKS LEMONGRASS, WHITE PARTS ONLY

1 SHALLOT

4 CLOVES GARLIC

2 TBSP. FISH SAUCE

1 TSP. SESAME OIL

1 TSP. SEA SALT

1 TSP. BLACK PEPPER

1 TBSP. LIME JUICE

4 CENTER-CUT BONE-IN PORK CHOPS

1 TBSP. COCONUT OIL

1. In a blender, blend the lemongrass, shallot, garlic, fish sauce, sesame oil, salt, pepper, and lime juice into a paste, adding water if needed. Pierce the pork chops all over with a fork or blade tenderizer, then place in a resealable plastic bag. Add the paste to the pork chops and refrigerate overnight.

2. If using thin-sliced pork chops, grilling is preferred. Grill over direct high heat until cooked through, about 3 minutes per side.

3. Pan-frying creates a tasty crust and is preferred for thicker cuts. Preheat a baking sheet in the oven at 450°F. Heat the coconut oil in a skillet on medium-high heat until shimmering. Sear the pork chops in batches until well browned, 3 minutes per side, then place on the baking sheet in the oven, flipping the chops after 3 minutes. Bake until the internal temperature reaches 135°F, typically 3 minutes per side, but longer if your chops are very thick. If you time it right, you can sear your second batch of pork chops while you bake the first batch. When the pork chops are done baking, tent them with aluminum foil and let them rest for 5 minutes; they will reach 145°F as they rest.

Kalua Pig

Kalua pig is one of Hawaii’s best-known dishes and a lu’au staple. Traditionally, an entire pig is placed in an underground pit (imu in Hawaiian) lined with hot rocks; the pork is wrapped in banana leaves, covered with a layer of soil, and roasted overnight. Surprisingly, a slow cooker or Dutch oven and some liquid smoke makes a decent replacement for an imu.

When selecting a piece of pork for this recipe, look for something with the bone and skin still attached, as it adds a depth of flavor. Pork butt, shoulder, picnic pork, and Boston butt are all from the same area of the pig and work well for this recipe.

SERVES:
6
PREP TIME:
15 MINUTES
COOKING TIME:
14 HOURS

5-7 LBS. PORK BUTT

1 TBSP. COARSE SEA SALT (BLACK OR PINK PREFERRED)

1 TBSP. HICKORY LIQUID SMOKE

1. Place the pork butt in a slow cooker or Dutch oven and pour the sea salt and liquid smoke on top. Cover and cook on low for 14 hours. There is no need to add liquid to the pot. Flip it over halfway through cooking.

2. Pull out the pork pieces with tongs and set them aside, discarding the skin, bone, and any excess fat. Pour the remaining liquid and fat into a fat separator. Place the pork pieces in a pan and gently shred the meat with 2 forks. Pour about half of the defatted liquid back into the pork while you’re shredding it.

3. You can reuse the remaining liquid and fat; the liquid makes a great gravy base or pan sauce to pour over any pork roast. Leftover Kalua pig is often mixed with head cabbage, which brings a new texture to the meat and reinvigorates the dish. Reheat the cold pig in a covered pan on medium heat for about 5 minutes, then add chopped cabbage and a little water. Cover and heat for an additional 5 minutes, then serve.

Gamjatang
(Pork Neck Soup)

Gamjatang, a traditional Korean soup, is one of the tastiest ways to eat pork neck, although not the only traditional preparation of this often-overlooked cut. In Southeast Asia, pork neck is usually marinated, grilled, and served with rice; in the Southern United States, it’s slow-roasted or used to make Meaty Collard Greens (
see here
).

Perilla leaves (ggaennip) and perilla seed powder bring a distinct taste to this dish. Perilla is part of the mint family and is often compared to its Japanese variety, known as shiso. Perilla leaves look like nettle leaves and are often confused with sesame leaves. They are used in pickled dishes and wraps and as garnishes for soups, as in this recipe. If you can’t find them at your local Asian market, mint leaves and sesame seed powder are suitable substitutes for perilla leaves and seed powder.

SERVES:
4
PREP TIME:
2 HOURS (TO SOAK THE BONES)
COOKING TIME:
2 HOURS

3 LBS. PORK NECK

1" GINGER, PEELED

1 SMALL ONION

10 BLACK PEPPERCORNS

10 CLOVES GARLIC, DIVIDED

3 TBSP. KOREAN RED PEPPER POWDER

3 TBSP. RICE WINE

3 TBSP. FISH SAUCE

3 TBSP. PERILLA SEED POWDER

1 TSP. GROUND GINGER

4 SMALL RUSSET POTATOES, PEELED

SALT AND BLACK PEPPER TO TASTE

1 BUNCH (1/2 LB.) CHINESE CABBAGE (SUCH AS CHOY SUM OR BOK CHOY)

10 PERILLA LEAVES

5 GREEN ONIONS, CHOPPED

1. Soak the pork neck in cold water for 2 hours, changing the water halfway through. This step helps remove the blood from the bones.

2. In a large stockpot, boil the pork neck for 6 minutes, then drain and rinse with cold water. Rinse out the stockpot as well. Return the pork neck to the stockpot and fill with enough cold water to cover the bones by 1", then add the ginger, whole onion, peppercorns, and 4 cloves garlic. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to medium-low, and simmer until the meat pulls easily from the bones, about 11/2 hours. As it simmers, create your flavoring sauce by blending the Korean red pepper powder, rice wine, fish sauce, perilla seed powder, ground ginger, and the remaining 6 cloves garlic; set aside.

3. Remove the pork neck from the stockpot with tongs and set aside. With a slotted spoon, scoop out the onion, ginger, garlic, and peppercorns. Return the pork neck to the pot; add the blended flavoring sauce and peeled whole potatoes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Simmer until the potatoes are softened, 15-20 minutes; add the cabbage and perilla leaves, cover, and simmer for an additional 3 minutes. Garnish with green onions and freshly ground black pepper and serve.

Lechon Asado
(Cuban Roasted Pork)

Lechon asado is a Cuban preparation of roasted pork, often made by roasting an entire pig on a spit ( lechon translates to “suckling pig”). The traditional marinade uses the juice of bitter oranges, which can be hard to find outside of tropical and subtropical environments. I’ve found that a mixture of orange and lemon juices is an acceptable substitute and still gives the pork a tangy, delicious taste.

SERVES:
6
PREP TIME:
10 MINUTES PLUS OVERNIGHT
COOKING TIME:
8 HOURS

MARINADE:

10 CLOVES GARLIC

2 TSP. SEA SALT

2 TSP. BLACK PEPPER

1 CUP ORANGE JUICE

1/2 CUP LEMON JUICE

1 MEDIUM ONION, COARSELY CHOPPED

1 TSP. HONEY

1/4 CUP OLIVE OIL

1/2 TSP. DRIED OREGANO

4 LBS. PORK BUTT (BONE-IN, SKIN-ON PREFERRED)

1. Blend the marinade ingredients, then combine with the pork butt in a resealable plastic bag and refrigerate overnight. The next day, remove the pork butt and reserve 1/4 cup of the marinade.

2. Prepare your grill for indirect grilling at 230-240°F (
see here
). Place the pork on the cool side of the grill and roast for 3 hours. Flip the pork and brush with marinade, then roast for another 3 hours. Finally, wrap the pork in heavy-duty aluminum foil and pour in the remaining marinade. Roast for 2 more hours or until the internal temperature reaches 190°F.

3. Let the pork rest for 10 minutes in the aluminum foil, then remove the pork, reserving whatever liquid has accumulated. Gently pull the pork apart with 2 forks, pouring on some of the reserved liquid to keep it juicy. For a crispy, carnitas-style texture, lightly sauté the shredded pork in a skillet on medium heat for 5-10 minutes, stirring only occasionally.

Jerk Pork

Jerk is a cooking method and seasoning from Jamaica that typically involves marinating in a paste of allspice (pimento) and Scotch bonnet peppers (often confused with their cousin, the habañero) and cooking over a fire made with pimento wood. Jamaica was first inhabited by the Arwak Indians from South America more than 2,000 years ago. The Arwak brought with them a cooking technique of marinating and drying meat over a fire or in the sun, the basis of beef jerky as we know it today. It also served as the origin of jerk cooking, as in this jerk pork recipe, although the two dishes are wildly different today; beef jerky is a dried, preserved meat, while jerk pork is tender and juicy.