Serves 3 to 4
Cooking peas: 30 to 40 minutes
Parboiling: 5 minutes
This medieval porridge is characterized by a surprisingly sophisticated undercurrent of herbs and spices. The pearl onions add flashes of flavor that provide sweetness, while the light color of the yellow peas helps highlight the green of the herbs and the orange of the saffron, making for an inviting-looking dish. It makes a nice first course for a summer dinner or a vibrant side accompaniment to a hearty main course.
2 cups dried yellow split peas
6 cups water
1 sprig fresh parsley
1 sprig fresh thyme
1 sprig fresh mint
12 pearl onions, peeled and left whole
½ teaspoon plus a pinch of saffron
2 tablespoons olive oil
Pinch of salt
Put the split peas in a large pot, and add the water. Turn the heat up to medium high. Add the herbs and onions to the pot. Parboil the herbs for about 3 minutes, and the onions for 5 to 10 minutes, until they are soft. Using a slotted spoon, remove the herbs and onions from the pot and set the onions aside. Press the herbs dry and chop them finely. Cook the peas for about 30 to 40 minutes longer, or until they are soft. Drain the peas.
Place the cooked peas in a small saucepan and add the onions, chopped herbs, ½ teaspoon saffron, oil, and salt. Cook over medium heat for 5 minutes, stirring constantly to prevent sticking.
Place the pease porridge in a serving dish and sprinkle a pinch of saffron and poudre douce on top for color and flavor.
Modern Pease Porridge
Serves 4
Soaking peas: overnight Prep: 5 minutes
Cooking: 1½ to 2 hours
If you like peas and onions, you will love this dish. This modern version is more subdued than the medieval recipe. It is best served warm and goes well with meats, cheeses, and other light lunch foods. Pease porridge is a traditional British side dish, and is still prepared today in one of two ways. The peas can be boiled in a pudding cloth, resulting in moister and softer porridge, or baked in the oven. The baked peas will be dryer, with delicious crispy bits on the top and around the edges.
8 ounces dried split peas
1 small onion, peeled and halved
1 bunch fresh herbs, tied together—consider thyme, basil, and parsley
2 cups water
1 egg
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
Beef stock or vegetable stock (optional)
Pour peas in a bowl and cover them with at least a finger’s breadth of water. Leave them to soak overnight at room temperature.
Drain the peas and put them in a pan with the onion, herbs, and water. Bring the mixture to a boil, then simmer, covered, until the peas are tender, about 1 hour. Stir occasionally, adding water if the mixture is drying out. Mash the peas by hand or in a food processor, then beat in the egg and season with salt and pepper.
From here, you can put the puree into the center of a floured pudding cloth, tie it securely, and boil it in stock for 1 hour, or spread it into a shallow, greased ovenproof dish, level the surface, and bake in the oven, preheated to 350°F, for 30 minutes.
Cook’s Note:
A pudding cloth can be made out of any piece of cotton. Simply take a large square of cotton cloth and soak it in boiling water. Wring it out and lay it flat on your work surface. Take ½ cup of flour and spread it in a circle on the cloth. Dump the pudding into the center, pull up the sides, and tie well.
Rack of Lamb
The eight soon-to-be brothers feasted on rack of lamb baked in a crust of garlic and herbs, garnished with sprigs of mint, and surrounded by mashed yellow turnips swimming in butter
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—A GAME OF THRONES
Serves 3 to 4
Prep: 20 minutes
Cooking: 20 to 30 minutes
This is a fantastic dish for a dinner party. When cooked to perfection, the lamb will be pink and juicy on the inside and crispy brown on the outside. Each bite is tender and bursting with garlic and herb flavor.
2 racks of lamb, about 1¼ pounds each, frenched (about 12 chops)
Salt and ground black pepper
2 cloves garlic, minced
½ teaspoon dried parsley
½ teaspoon dried thyme
1 cup soft fresh bread crumbs
¼ cup olive oil
1 tablespoon flour
¼ cup red wine vinegar
Fresh mint for garnish (optional)
Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat it to 475°F.