A Love Affair with Southern Cooking (70 page)

PICKLED PEACHES

MAKES
6
TO
8
PINTS

In many parts of the South, the Thanksgiving turkey or Easter ham wouldn’t be the same without pickled peaches or Bourbon’d Peaches. In the old days, southern women not only pickled their own peaches but picked them, too. Some still do. Experienced cooks know that the best varieties to pickle are small, firm-ripe clingstones: the yellow-fleshed Florida Dawn or Florida King, for example; the rosy Indian Cling; or even semi-clings like Redhaven and Springbrite. They know, too, that if pickled peaches are to be plump and full of flavor, they must stand in the pickling syrup overnight.

6 pounds small firm-ripe peaches about the size of apricots

4 quarts (1 gallon) cold water, mixed with 2 teaspoons powdered ascorbic acid (acidulated water)

4½ cups sugar

3 cups cold water

1½ cups white (distilled) vinegar

1½ cups cider vinegar

3 cinnamon sticks, broken in several places

3 large blades of mace

One 2-inch strip lemon zest

One 2-inch strip orange zest

Whole cloves (2 for each peach)

• 1.
  Blanch the peaches in batches in boiling water, allowing 30 seconds for each. Transfer at once to ice water, then slip off the skins. Submerge the peeled peaches in the acidulated water while you prepare the pickling syrup.
  
• 2.
  Place the sugar, water, and two vinegars in a very large nonreactive kettle. Tie the cinnamon, mace, and lemon and orange zests in cheesecloth and drop into the kettle. Set over moderately high heat and bring to a boil.
  
• 3.
  Meanwhile, lift the peaches from the acidulated water and stud each with 2 cloves. As soon as the pickling syrup boils, ease 6 peaches into the kettle, adjust the heat so the
  mixture bubbles gently, and cook uncovered for 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, lift the peaches to a large heatproof bowl. Repeat until all the peaches have cooked 5 minutes.
  
• 4.
  Bring the pickling syrup to a rolling boil, return all of the peaches to the kettle, then set off the heat, cover, and let stand overnight.
  
• 5.
  The next day, wash and rinse 8 one-pint preserving jars and their closures and submerge in a large kettle of boiling water.
  
• 6.
  Lift the peaches from the pickling syrup with a slotted spoon and transfer to a large bowl. Set the kettle over high heat and quickly bring the pickling syrup to a full boil. Discard the spice bag.
  
• 7.
  Pack the peaches as attractively and tightly as possible in the hot preserving jars, filling to within ¼ inch of the top, then ladle in just enough boiling pickling syrup to cover the peaches. Run a thin-blade spatula around the inside of each jar to release air bubbles; wipe the rim with a clean, damp cloth, then screw on the closure.
  
• 8.
  Process the jars for 15 minutes in a boiling water bath (212° F.). Lift from the water bath; complete the seals, if necessary, by tightening the lids, then cool to room temperature.
  
• 9.
  Date and label each jar, then store on a cool, dark shelf for about a month before serving.
  

The drier the season, the sweeter the peach.

—
OLD SOUTHERN SAYING

BOURBON’D PEACHES

MAKES
6
TO
8
PINTS

To Southerners, a peach preserved in aged bourbon or sour mash beats a brandied peach every time. As with pickled peaches, the best varieties to choose are small, firm clingstones (see headnote for Pickled Peaches, Chapter 7). Serve Bourbon’d Peaches with baked ham or roast pork, turkey, or chicken.

6 pounds small firm-ripe peaches about the size of apricots

4 quarts (1 gallon) cold water, mixed with 1 tablespoon powdered citric acid and 1 teaspoon powdered ascorbic acid (acidulated water)

6 cups sugar

6 cups (1½ pints) cold water

3 cups syrup (from boiling the peaches)

3 cups fine aged bourbon or sour mash whiskey

• 1.
  Wash and rinse 8 one-pint preserving jars and their closures and keep submerged in boiling water.
  
• 2.
  Blanch the peaches in batches in a separate kettle of boiling water, allowing 30 seconds for each. Transfer at once to ice water, then slip off the skins. Submerge the peeled peaches in the acidulated water while you prepare the syrup.
  
• 3.
  Place the sugar and water in a very large nonreactive kettle, set over moderate heat, and
  bring to a boil. Working with 6 to 8 peaches at a time, lift from the acidulated water and ease into the boiling syrup. Adjust the heat so the syrup bubbles gently, and cook the peaches uncovered for 5 minutes.
  
• 4.
  As the peaches finish cooking, pack into the hot jars as attractively and snugly as possible, leaving ¼ inch head space at the top of each jar. Repeat until all the peaches have cooked 5 minutes and been packed into jars.
  
• 5.
  Insert a candy thermometer in the kettle of syrup and boil uncovered until the syrup reaches 220° F. Set the kettle off the heat and cool the syrup for 5 minutes.
  
• 6.
  Measure 3 cups of the syrup into a medium-size nonreactive saucepan and add the bourbon. Set over moderate heat and bring to a simmer—do not boil—then ladle just enough hot bourbon syrup into each jar to cover the peaches, again leaving ¼ inch head space.
  
• 7.
  Run a thin-blade spatula around the inside of each jar to release air bubbles; wipe the rim with a clean, damp cloth, then screw on the closure.
  
• 8.
  Process the jars for 10 minutes in a boiling water bath (212° F.). Lift from the water bath; complete the seals, if necessary, by tightening the lids, then cool to room temperature.
  
• 9.
  Date and label each jar, then store on a cool, dark shelf for about a month before serving.
  

Wild as a peach orchard hog.

—
OLD SOUTHERN SAYING

WATERMELON RIND PICKLES

MAKES ABOUT
8
PINTS

One of the few southern recipes that my midwestern mother embraced is this one for watermelon rind pickles. I loved working beside her in the kitchen when it was time to make our annual batch: My job was to peel the watermelon rind and cut it into one-inch cubes. After I’d seen “plantation circles”—little rounds of rind—I began using my mother’s smallest biscuit cutter. “Too much waste,” she said. So I resumed cutting the rind into cubes. Note:
You need watermelon rind at least
¾ i
nch thick to make good pickles.

8 pounds peeled and trimmed ¾-to 1-inch-thick watermelon rind showing no traces of pink

1 cup pickling salt dissolved in 4 quarts (1 gallon) cold water (brine)

5 quarts (1 gallon plus 1 quart) water

6 pounds sugar

4½ cups cider vinegar

4 chili pequins (tiny dried red chiles)

3 blades of mace

2 cinnamon sticks, broken in two

2 tablespoons whole allspice

1 tablespoon mustard seeds

1 tablespoon whole cloves

2 cardamom pods, bruised

2 large bay leaves, crumbled

Two 1-inch cubes fresh ginger, peeled and coarsely chopped

1 large lemon, sliced and seeded

• 1.
  Cut the watermelon rind into 1-inch cubes, place in a very large nonreactive kettle, add the brine, cover, and let stand overnight.
  
• 2.
  Next day, drain the rind, rinse well, and drain again. Also rinse the kettle. Return the rind to the kettle, add 4 quarts of the water, and bring to a boil over high heat. Adjust the heat so the water bubbles gently and cook uncovered for 10 to 15 minutes or until the rind is crisp-tender. Drain well.
  
• 3.
  Place the sugar, vinegar, and remaining 1 quart water in the kettle and stir well. Tie all of the spices and the lemon slices in several thicknesses of cheesecloth and drop into the kettle. Bring to a boil over moderately high heat, then boil uncovered for 10 minutes.
  
• 4.
  Return the rind to the kettle, bring to a boil, adjust the heat so the pickling syrup bubbles gently, and cook uncovered for 15 to 20 minutes or until the rind is translucent.
  
• 5.
  Meanwhile, wash and rinse 8 one-pint preserving jars and their closures and submerge in a large kettle of boiling water.
  
• 6.
  Lift the preserving jars from the boiling water one by one. Using a slotted spoon, pack the rind snugly in the jar, leaving ¼ inch head space at the top. Ladle enough boiling pickling syrup into the jar to cover the rind, again leaving ¼ inch head space. Run a thin-blade spatula around the inside of the jar to release air bubbles; wipe the jar rim with a clean,
  damp cloth, then screw on the closure. Repeat until all the jars are filled.
  
• 7.
  Process the jars for 5 minutes in a boiling water bath (212° F.). Lift from the water bath; complete the seals, if necessary, by tightening the lids, then cool to room temperature.
  
• 8.
  Date and label each jar, then store on a cool, dark shelf several weeks before opening.
  

WILD BLACKBERRY JAM

MAKES
6
TO
8
HALF-PINTS

When my brother and I were little, we looked forward to the first flurry of blackberry blossoms along roadsides, in fields, and in woods because there’d soon be berries to pick. Not an easy task because the brambles were full of thorns and not easily accessible. Note:
Wild blackberries make better jam than the cultivated because their flavor is more intense. Still, farmer’s market blackberries can be substituted as can blueberries, dewberries, and raspberries.

10 cups (2½ quarts) firm-ripe wild blackberries

6 cups sugar

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

• 1.
  Wash the blackberries well in cool water and drain thoroughly. Place the berries in a large bowl and crush with a potato masher. You will need exactly 9 cups of crushed berries.
  
• 2.
  Place the 9 cups crushed blackberries in a large, heavy nonreactive kettle; add the sugar and lemon juice, and stir well. Insert a candy thermometer.
  
• 3.
  Set the uncovered kettle over moderate heat and bring the berry mixture slowly to a boil, stirring until the sugar dissolves completely. Now cook slowly, still uncovered, stirring as needed to keep the jam from sticking to the bottom of the kettle, until the jelling point is reached (218° to 220° F.).
  
• 4.
  Meanwhile, wash and rinse 8 half-pint preserving jars and their closures and submerge in a large kettle of boiling water.
  
• 5.
  Ladle the boiling jam into the hot jars, filling each to within ¼ inch of the top.
  Tip:
  To avoid spills, use a wide-mouth canning funnel.
  Wipe the jar rims with a damp cloth and screw on the closures.
  
• 6.
  Process the jars for 15 minutes in a hot water bath (185° F.). Lift from the water bath; complete the seals, if necessary, by tightening the lids, then cool to room temperature.
  
• 7.
  Date and label each jar, then store on a cool, dark shelf for about a month before serving.
  

Breakfast was on the table…grits, ham and eggs, and red-eye gravy. Grandpa had spread butter and Aunt Everleen’s homemade blackberry jelly on hot biscuits as soon as he took them out of the oven.

—
DORI SANDERS
,
CLOVER

MUSCADINE JAM

MAKES
6
TO
7
HALF-PINTS

As a child, one of my greatest joys was to lie atop our next-door neighbor’s grape arbor reading a good book, plucking the occasional muscadine and sucking its honeyed flesh into my mouth. What I didn’t know then was that the muscadine
(Vitis rotundifolia)
and its bronze cultivar (the scuppernong) were found growing wild here by early European explorers. Discovering them along the North Carolina coast in 1584, Arthur Barlowe, one of Sir Walter Raleigh’s scouts, wrote of their flourishing “on the sand and on the green soil, on the hills as on the plains…in all the world the like abundance is not to be found.” Unlike other varieties, muscadines and scuppernongs do not bunch; indeed the grapes often seem to grow singly. They are tough-skinned, blessed with intense grape flavor, and make superlative jam (my childhood favorite for P, B, and J sandwiches). People often confuse muscadines with scuppernongs because the two can be used interchangeably, but to Southerners the black-skinned grapes are “muscadines” and the bronzy green are “scuppernongs.” Tip:
This recipe calls for peeled muscadines—not as tedious a job as it sounds. Simply whack the grapes lightly with a cutlet bat or the broad side of a chef’s knife and the flesh will pop out of the skins.