A Time of Gifts (44 page)

Danube, the,
18
,
143
; sighted by the author,
89
,
91
,
94
,
145–6
,
222
,
274
; School of Painting,
149–56
,
314
;

Danube, the
(continued)
, riverside dwellings,
159–60
,
162
,
170
,
177
; fish population,
163–5
; tribal history,
167–8
,
178–81
; Radetzky Bridge,
201
; Carnuntum arch,
234
; the Marchfeld,
235
,
250
,
251
; the Wolfstal,
235–6
,
250
; Parkan–Esztergom Bridge,
274
,
308
; Kleine Donau tributary,
277
; at Karva,
299–300

Deutsch-Altenburg, Schloss,
235

Dollfuss, Dr.,
144
,
195–6
,
217

Dordrecht,
29

Dürnstein, Richard Coeur de Lion's prison,
184–7
,
237

Eferding,
144
,
165

Elizabeth, Queen of Bohemia,
69
and n,
171
,
257
,
269

Esztergom, Cathedral and Palace,
307
,
313–6
; Holy Saturday,
306–16
; paintings,
314

Eszterházys, Eisenstadt palace,
251

Europe, Central, historical past,
92–3
,
137
,
166–8
,
178–81
; religious intolerance,
262
and n; country houses,
280
; high life,
284

Fielding, Xan, D.S.O.,
5–6
,
21

Forbes-Robertson Hale, Robin,
218

Gainer, Donald St. Clair,
111

German painting,
149–56

Germany,
36–43
,
89
,
115
,
153
,
166
,
239
; Nazi régime,
38–9
,
51
,
70
,
103–4
,
132–4
,
284
; hospitality,
50–2
,
72–3
,
115
; student associations,
67–8
; and England,
130–2
; and “King and Country” Oxford debate,
131–2

Germany, South, architecture,
96–101

Goch,
38

Goering, Hermann,
38–9

Goodman, Lawrence,
15

Gorinchem,
55
; a night in a police cell,
30

Göttweig, Abbey,
187
; Schloss greeting,
188–91

Grein,
157–8

Grünewald, Isaak,
148–9
; Isenheim altarpiece,
152
and n,
153

Guelderland,
32–3

Habsburgs,
206
and n,
227–8
,
238
,
260
,
262
,
263
,
267–8
,
294

Hainburg,
235

Hašek, Jaroslav,
Good Soldier Å vejk
,
249
and n,
266
,
296

Hatto, Archbishop,
61n

Heidelberg,
67–9
; the Palatinate,
68–70
; a Nazi fanatic,
70
,
130

Heydte, Baron (Einer) von der,
219–20
;
Daedalus Returned
,
221n

Hitler, Adolf,
38–9
,
40
,
70
,
132–4
; German dislike,
51
; suppresses student cults,
68n

Hohenaschau,
115

Holland,
25–37
; picture/reality identity,
33–4

Holy Roman Empire,
98
,
99–100
,
166
,
228
,
258–9
,
270–1

Hook of Holland,
25–8

Horace,
85–6
;
Ad Thaliarchum
,
85

Hungary,
190
,
206
,
222
,
235–6
,
249
; equestrianism,
226–7
; Great Plain,
222
,
240
; Porta Hungarica,
250
; the author at the entrance,
274
,
300
,
307–8
,
313–6
; his recollections,
276
ff.; national feelings,
294–6
; Holy Saturday,
306–16

India,
6
,
10
,
127–8

Jews and Jewish quarters, Brati-slava,
244–5
, Prague,
269–70
; Feast of Purim,
246–7
; Hasidim sect,
298–9

Karva,
299–300

Kevelaer,
42

King's School, Canterbury,
11–4
,
46
,
123–6

Kissujfalu,
290
,
292

Köbölkut, Maundy Thursday,
296–9

Konrad, Frisian islander, and the author,
199–216
passim
; saccha-rine smuggler,
212
,
215
,
304–5
,
305n

Kövecsespuszta,
276–91

Krefeld,
45–7
; a night in the workhouse,
46–7

Krems,
169
,
184
,
187

Lake Constance,
31
,
65–6
,
92

Landsknechts,
97–101
,
152
,
228
,
259

Leopold, Duke of Austria,
185
and n

Linz,
146
,
193
,
264

Liphart-Ratshoff, Baron Rheinhard von, kindnesses to the author,
111–5
,
135–9
,
188

Lipizza,
226
and n

London, in the Thirties,
125–6
,
129
,
138

Ludwigstorff family,
235

Maas, the,
30–1

Magyars,
235
,
237
,
238–42
passim
,
295–6

Maidling-im-Tal,
188

Marcomanni, the,
167–8
,
178
,
180
,
234

Mäuseturm, legend of Archbishop Hatto,
61n

Mauthausen,
157

Maximilian of Bavaria, at battle of White Hill,
259n

Melk Abbey,
172–7
,
187

Merwerde, the,
30

Mitter Arnsdorf, a widow's reminiscences,
182–4

Moravia,
235
,
240
,
251
,
253

Morgenstern, Christian,
285
and n

Morville, Hugo de, a murderer of Becket,
185–6n

Moselle, the,
58

Mount Ida,
85

Mount Kedros,
5

Mühlacker,
75

Munich,
102–15
; beer territory,
103–8
; loss of a rucksack,
109–11
,
111n

Nagy-Magyar, an evening with the Burgomaster,
277–8
; Gipsy women,
278–9

Nazism,
45
,
51
,
129
,
194
,
284
; National Socialism display,
38–9
; SS troops,
103
,
105
; a fanatic,
70
; in Austria,
193
,
195–6

Neckar, the,
66
,
69
,
71
,
82

Niebelungen
landmarks,
107–8
,
170
,
177–8

Nijmegen,
34
,
35–6

Noorwede, the,
30

Nové Zamky, coffee house,
292–3

Nuremberg,
149
,
155

Oberlahnstein,
60

Palatinate, the,
93
,
171
,
259

Palatine Anthology,
69n

Parkan,
308

Parry-Jones, Basset,
219
,
225

Perg,
157

Persenbeug,
162

Petronell,
234

Pforzheim,
73
,
75

Pöchlarn,
170

Poetry and Prose, author's personal choice,
83–7

Pozony, see Bratislava

Prideaux, Denys Anstice,
15
,
16
,
19

Prague,
149
,
253
ff.; St. Vitus's Cathedral,
255–6
; Riders' Steps,
256–7
; Hall of Homage,
258
; Landsknecht century,
259
; libraries,
249
; the Vltava,
263–4
; astronomers,
267–8
; Waldstein Palace,
268n

Pressburg, see Bratislava

Quadi, the,
167–8
,
178
,
180
,
234

Regensburg (Ratisbon),
149
,
154
,
163
; Altdorfer's birthplace,
154–6

Rhine, the,
18
; meanderings,
31
; Skagerrak Bridge,
46
,
47
; upstream by barge,
50
,
52–8
; legend of St. Ursula,
53
and n; historical background,
56–7
,
92
; riparian vineyards and castles,
60–1
; the Lorelei,
62
; Christmas Day,
63
; the author takes leave,
65–6

Rhinelanders,
122
,
132–3

Richard Coeur de Lion, imprisonment,
185
and n,
186
,
230

Romilly, Esmond,
124

Rosenheim,
115

Rotterdam,
27–8

Rüdesheim,
63

Ruhr, the,
42–7

Rumania,
275
,
281

Saint Boniface,
118–9

St. Florian's Abbey,
147–8
,
154
,
162
; Grünewald's altarpiece,
152–3
,
153n
,
154

St. John Nepomuk,
184
,
264

St. Martin's Castle,
113
,
135–6

SS. Cyril and Methodius,
296

Salsham-le-Sallows,
8

Salzburg,
134
,
135
,
137

Salzach, the,
134

Samorin,
276
,
279

Schaffhausen falls,
65–6

Schey v. Koromla, Baron Philip,
274
,
276
,
301n
; reads Proust,
280
,
281
,
288
; character and appearance,
281–3
; literary prototype,
282n
; European and English reminiscences,
282–8
; later life,
290–1

Schirach, Baldur von,
38

Schönbühel Schloss,
178

Schweik, see Hasek

Scott-Malden, Gilbert and Phyllis,
11

Senec,
279

Sered,
279

Seredy, Mgr.,
314

Shakespeare, William,
118
,
171–2
,
200
;
The Winter's Tale
,
171–2
,
200
,
270
,
272

Sitwell family (
Into High Germany
) 84

Slovakia, Slovaks,
237
,
239–40
; national complaints,
295–6
; a flight of storks,
308–10

Spain, horsemanship,
226–7

Spengel, Herr and Frau,
67
,
71
; family,
67–71

Spires,
65
; Prince Bishops,
71

Starhemberg, Prince,
217
; Home Guard Militia,
144

Steyr, Trout quintet,
168

Stolzenfels, Gothic keep,
60

Strasbourg,
55
,
65

Stuttgart, student hospitality,
75–82
; dinner with a business family,
79–81

Styria,
135
,
159
,
169
,
232

Švejk, see Hašek

Swabia,
77
,
82
,
87–92
,
100
,
122
,
150
,
155
; a walk in a snowstorm,
88–9
; Habsburgs,
185–6n

Switzerland,
65
,
92
; woodcarving,
123

Talbot-Rice, David,
20

Thirty Years' War,
92–3
,
100
,
189
,
254
,
259
,
262
,
268n

Thurn, Count,
258–9

Tiel,
32
,
34

Toynbee, Philip,
124

Tratzberg Schloss,
233n

Traunstein,
134

Turks, and Central Europe,
229
,
238–9

Tyrol, the,
96
,
135
,
148
,
159
,
169–70

Ulm,
163
,
187
; the Danube sighted,
89–90
; the Minster,
90
,
94
; battle honours,
94

Ulrich von Zatzikhoven,
185–6n

Var (Vah), the, log-traffic,
287–8
,
300

Vienna,
149
,
163
,
206–7
,
285
; a penniless approach,
192–4
; armed demonstration,
193–4
; Salvation Army refuge,
194
,
197
ff.; the author sketches for money,
202–12
; Habsburg citizens,
206
and n; hospitality,
217–9
; Konsularakademie,
219
; museum explorations,
222–3
,
229
; horsemanship,
224–7
; Turkish attack,
229–31

Vltava (Moldau), its course,
263–4