American Voudou: Journey Into a Hidden World (16 page)

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Authors: Rod Davis

Tags: #Body; Mind & Spirit, #General, #Religion, #Ethnic & Tribal, #Social Science, #Ethnic Studies, #African American Studies, #test

BOOK: American Voudou: Journey Into a Hidden World
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the junction. Maybe it was just a fluke, the "significance" based on the questionable logic of imputing desired effects from selective causes. How odd, given all we know, that no one can say, finally, whether one answer is true or another false. I do know that if I hadn't turned towards Ruston I wouldn't have met Sarah Albritton.
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Anyone within a hundred miles, black or white, who knew anything about good food, knew about Sarah's Kitchen. The owner's northeastern Louisiana cooking had won awards and acclaim and been served at official folk festivals as far away as Washington, D. C. Set back off a tiny, easy-to-miss street not far from the Ruston Vo-Tech school, the Kitchen was a one-room house reborn as a cafe, spruced up with green paint, white trimming and lace curtains on the two front windows. Regulars liked to eat outside under the big cedar trees, on park benches brightened with red tablecloths held firm by Mason jars filled with condiments.
Inside, three formica tables provided seating for maybe a dozen if you crammed in, and you did. A lace-covered wooden counter accommodating a half-dozen more people bisected the room, with the plain-view cooking area on the other side. Iron frying pans, assorted stainless steel pots, and all manner of vines or flowering plants hung from the cedar ceiling and walls, along with spices and drying hams. It really was like eating in a kitchen, maybe your own grandmother's if you were lucky, about the homiest place on earth.
I showed up about 9
A.M.
the second morning after arriving in town, the first day having consisted of a fruitless, maddening search for "Mother Butler," an elderly, and probably deceased, healer last seen in the Ruston HUD projects. Both Sarah and her husband, Robert Lee, were already hard at workhad been

 

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Sarah Albritton, Sarah's Kitchen, Ruston, Louisiana.
Inside Sarah's Kitchen.

 

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since 5:00, cooking up chicken, bread, greens and roast beef. They were in their fiftiesshe oval-faced, caramel, thin; he stocky, dark, white-crownedbut both seemed fit and strong. I knew at least one reason. The interior temperature was at least ten degrees hotter than it was outside. They spent their days working out in a steam bath.
I didn't particularly want coffee, but it was a way to keep the conversation going. After my second cup, and a biscuit, and questions, it got obvious I wasn't just a sales rep killing time.
"You're talking about voudou," Sarah said matter-of-factly, looking at me as she bent to extract a pan of cornbread from the double oven. I thought she'd ask me to leave. Instead, she smiled proudly. "I taught voudou for six weeks at my church," she said. "There's thirty-three verses about voudou in the Bible."
I must have looked slightly stunned.
"I don't believe in it," she said quickly. "I study it to help people who think they've been hoodooed. I've been hoodooed myself. There's some people in Chatham who made a candle against me 'cause I preach against the hoodoo." She placed the cornbread on a counter and wiped her hands on her white apron. I asked for a refill.
For three days we jousted. I'd drop in to eatchicken, turnip greens, squash, potato salad and sassafras tea ("good for your sex life"). While she was kneading dough or fixing take-out platters or dictating the next day's menu to her son, or sitting down to coffeeshe drank huge amountsshe gradually revealed to me the tormenting confrontation in her soul. She had joined the great spiritual battle. She was a warrior for Jesus against the evil of voudou. She always had been.
When she was six years old, she now realized, she'd had her first encounter with it. Her family lived in Clay but she'd gone over to Ruston to visit her cousins. They'd heard some money had been lost out in the woods and went to find it, using a silver

 

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spoon dangling from a red string that would "point to the money." Deeper and deeper they ventured into the forest. "Then we saw a light," Sarah said. "It was the spirit of the person who lost the money. Everybody was afraid to go any farther and we ran back. We buried a root under the doorstep to keep away the spirit. But I went back that night and saw the light again ... and I decided never to go back."
Spiritually, she never did. What she had seen was Magic. It was not God. From then on, what Lorita learned to embrace, Sarah passionately rejected. "God might have said, 'Sarah Mae, you become a voudou queen.' But He never did. Why would he? I don't believe in those gods of Egypt and Africa. Why should I? In my heart I know I serve the one true God. I don't want no hand-me-down God. Why would a person go back to those African gods? Why choose to go back into darkness rather than choose the light?"
Robert Lee, washing dishes, listened. I began to defend voudou, explaining about the orisha and their ways. Sarah was unfamiliar with the names of the deities but seemly keenly interested in what I was saying. To Robert Lee, it all came down to one question. He asked it over his shoulder. "But do you believe any of it works?"
I said I didn't know. I could see him smile.
But Sarah knew.
"Those gods cannot heal one thing," she said. "Only God can heal. You see, voudou is really Satan ... and Satan has power. He was an archangel. He rule the earth right now, so he can give the power. On the whole, voudou have a good name around here, but Satan can make a sinful thing look good."
"What make it look good," Robert Lee observed, "is that if you can tell people something to tickle their mind, it's good." As for himself, he remembered the time he'd stepped on a nail while fixing a roof. "A prophet [spiritual healer] said some holy moly

 

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stuff and rubbed my foot. When I got home I couldn't hardly walk on it."
Sarah wiped her hands on a dish towel and laughed. "You could spread the word a prophet was in town and people would come in from all around. They used to stay in motelsthey stayed in that one you're intill they run 'em out of town."
It was getting close to the lunch rush and customers were driving up. Sarah invited me to come back and study the Bible with her. She said she'd also send me to some of the local hoodoo people so I could see for myself that they were "counterfeit." She even knew of a "white voudou lady." Name of Margaret, out in the country.
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The two-story wood cabin was set in deep piney woods so thick even the half-regulated clear-cutting didn't faze the relentlessness of nature. I drove by it twice. It looked more like an upscale lake lodge or weekend getaway cabin than a hoodoo shack. Late model sedans and fresh-washed pickups were parked in the dirt driveway, and just back of the house was a small outbuilding the size of an office at a construction site. But that's not what it was.
I pulled in and set my handbrake. I remembered Lorita's advice to clean myself with fruit before meeting spiritual people and regretted not having any. I went up to the front porch and knocked. An elderly black woman opened the door halfway. I could see by the expression in her eyesshe was scaredthat I was at the right place. She said Margaret wasn't home.
Then a white woman in a muumuu came out to say Margaret had left town and to call back "next Tuesday." I said I wouldn't be around that long, explained that I was the one about whom Sarah had called, and proffered my card. While she scrutinized it, I leaned forward a little to recon. I could see an entry

 

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foyer with a table, around which sat four or five women, all white except for one. That was probably the friend Sarah had told me about who had bought some "blue water" from a traveling prophet for $150, hoping to kill the wife of a man with whom she was having an affair. The potion hadn't worked. Later, the woman had gotten a job with Margaret, after which the husband left his wife. Now he lived with the woman.
My mind said: Witches. Maybe they were just clients, but I said goodbye, left my card, and drove back to Ruston. En route I stopped at a roadside stand and bought peaches, tangerines, apples, and bananas. I wouldn't be caught unprepared again. As soon as I got back to the motel I cleaned myself.
At four that afternoon, uninvited, I drove back out. This time I went directly to the small shed. I knocked on the door and someone said to come in. When I did I saw two women facing each other across a small desk flanked by votive candles. One, black and middle-aged, was the client. The other was Margaret, a statuesque, white-haired, part-Cherokee of about fifty. Both seemed startled, but Margaret more so; after all, she was supposed to be out of town. I didn't stay, but agreed to meet her two days hence. "I don't usually use cards," she said, referring to the deck in her hand, "only with clients who find it helpful."
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Sarah spread her color-coded Bible before us on the kitchen counter to show me how many times she thought the Bible revealed the use of hoodoo. First there was Exodus, in the tale of Moses casting down his rod and it turning to a snakehoodoo magic. There was also Saul's reliance on prophecy, which Sarah considered a type of hoodoo, because prophecy was too often the work of man, not God. And did not Jesus cast out demons? She turned the pages rapidly, her finger like a pointer in a military briefing. There: spirit healers in Corinthians, more prophe-

 

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cies in Acts, and magic and occult symbolism in St. John's Revelations.
To Sarah, each of the thirty-three hoodoo passages was there to show it up as evil. I made a contrary claim, that references to snakes, magic, divination, prophesying, etc. merely emphasized the historical influence of African religions on Christianity. She would have none of it.
"I stand firm," she said, patient indulgence over her bifocals. "I don't care what denomination you are, if you're not serving our God the Saviour, you got to be serving Satan." The Bible backed her up in dozens of passagesthou shall have no other god before me, cannot serve two masters, shall abide by the one and true way. "He that is not with me is against me," said Jesus in Luke 11:23. The Bible is pretty unequivocal about who's the boss.
I shouldn't have been surprised at her intransigence. The equation of African religion with evil had been a long-standing Christian theme. According to Ishmael Reed, the "magicians" in the Bible were really African priests. Condemning them and all they represented became an obsession, fully elaborated once the slave trade began. In Black Religion and Black Radicalism, Gayraud S. Wilmore observed the seeds in the first European missionary contacts along the African slave coast:
The Protestants, much more than the Roman Catholics, were horrified by the native religions ... saw nothing vaguely representing a preparation for the Gospel. The use of charms, magic, ghosts and witches was deplored as nothing less than Satanism and superstitition. No religion that was basically polytheistic, that countenanced polygamy and made so much of ancestors, spirits and the phenomena of nature, could provide

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