Read American Voudou: Journey Into a Hidden World Online

Authors: Rod Davis

Tags: #Body; Mind & Spirit, #General, #Religion, #Ethnic & Tribal, #Social Science, #Ethnic Studies, #African American Studies, #test

American Voudou: Journey Into a Hidden World (31 page)

BOOK: American Voudou: Journey Into a Hidden World
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Page 200
another the mirrors, the twins, the binary divination of Ifa, reincarnation, all led back to what seemed the simplest metaphor of all: the crossroads.
In voudou, not unlike Native American and Asian religions, the plane of existence is really a dual bisectionliterally, a cross of horizontal and vertical axes. The horizontal delineates the living (above) from the dead (below). The vertical line separates the life cycle in the way of a clock, from re-birth at midnight, around clockwise and back to the midnight of the instant of death. In the classic Haitian vodun vêve (symbolic drawing), the crossroads icon is depicted as a cross surrounded by a circle. The cross interstices mark the inseparable dualities, and the circle indicates the movement of the time-space continuum. The crossroads are not only mirrors within voudou, but outward, to the rest of the world as well.
But I was noticing something else in Oshun's mirrorscracks. I didn't know why until a few days later when, on a quiet afternoon, I heard pecking and walked down to the shrine. Her birds, the peacocks, were compelled by their own reflections to break the mirrors into shards. Blood tracks from their lacerated foot pads speckled the dirt. One of the villagers told me that keeping mirrors in stock was a real problem, as was protecting the birds from self-inflicted wounds, but what could anyone do? If Oshun, taking the form of the peacocks, wanted to shatter the illusion of her own image to see what lay behind, who would stop her?
The procession, meanwhile, had reached the shrine of its namesake. A blue and white wooden hut about the size of a snow-cone booth at the state fair, it contained, under lock and key, the secret worship pots, or superas. Liberally decorated with drawings of seahorses and other ocean life, the hut opened onto the village's largest ceremonial courtyard, a white sandy area big enough for a half-court basketball game, flanked on one side by a section of bleachers for spectators, such as there were.

 

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Villagers in front of Yemonja shrine. They visit shrines of each of the deities
during ceremonies.
On another side, opposite Yemonja's hut, rose a temple to her male counterpart, the ocean god Olokun. In front of that was an enclosed walkway lined with massive, hand-carved wooden statues. Much of the work had been done by the Oba himself, hewing out huge tree trunks, with attention in every aspect to Yoruba detail. How easy it was to see Oyotunji not just as a spiritual settlement, a living lesson-book, but as an ongoing work of performance art, an opus of such magnitude and scope of imagination to rival anything I had ever seen in a museum.
I walked over to the bleachers with some of the other guests and shielded my eyes with my hand enough to catch shimmering glimpses of Yemonja, mounted on Ghandi again, dancing and singing for herself, to herself, about herself. In a few days, at the closing ceremonies for the festival, I would be in the bleachers again, this time watching the Oba and three of his wives.
They had finished pouring a special mixture of cornflour and herbs on the sand for the spirits, thanking them for the

 

Page 202
Village boys in front of a statue to the sea god Olokun. Iya Ghandi, as Yemonja,
bare-breasted in front of statue.
week, and now, to celebrate, wanted to dance. They formed a line not unlike what kids in Philly might have called the ''stroll" in the fifties, shaking their hips and bodies with so much exuberance it didn't seem possible they'd probably done the same dance hundreds or even thousands of times over the last two decades. Sometimes they danced in front of visitors, and sometimes just for themselvesit didn't really matter.

 

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I had watched the king smile as he joined the line. A regal smile, a smile of accomplishment from a warrior-king who had surmounted impossible odds to turn what had been little more than a stupendous dream into the re-creation that spread around us. The myth made manifest. Who could look on this and not see the beauty?
In voudou, all life is of one weavebeing, beauty and truth. The melding of beauty and truth is a community responsibility and celebration. Art is for society's sake. It is the expression of the divinity in all things, the very essence of voudou. "Do you know what the word for 'thinking' is in Yoruba?" the controversial New York voudou scholar John Mason once asked me. "It's synonymous with the word for art. To be artful is to be a thinker. The language itself is already geared to a certain view of what existence is."
<><><><><><><><><><><><>
That evening I met Malaya for a drink at The Horseman. I had spotted her earlier in the afternoon while following the ceremonies but hadn't been able to talk to her much. She was a visiontall, sinuous, her white cotton blouse and skirt glowing against deep black skin. A gold ring pierced one nostril, and I could see by the strands of pale blue and white beads around her neck that she had recently begun the process of initiation as a daughter of Oshun.
She had come to Oyotunji from Washington, D.C., with friends, partly from curiositythough she'd heard of the village, she'd never seen it in personand partly because she shared the Oyotunji idea of a religion in which American blacks would not be dominated by Cubans. Her own spiritual god father was Cuban, but her African-American separatist feelings ran strong. She referred to her religion as "orisha worship," however, and not as voudou. I asked why.

 

Page 204
"I just feel 'voodoo' has gotten a bad connotation," she said. "To me, it's like calling myself 'colored.'" I disagreed, but understood the objection.
Iya Orite, tending bar, brought over wine coolers and beer and joined us. Pretty soon we'd taken care of several rounds. I liked Orite (her name means "mother of the head throne"). She had a good head for business and seemed to function as a kind of de facto manager of village affairs. But you could tell she had a wild streak. She was a priestess of Obatalaknown for organizationbut had a "strong Oshun," a sort of African Scarlett O'Hara.
Orite had been in the village since 1974, when she decided to walk out of everything "normal" in her middle-class life and become a wife of the king. Malaya thought it romantic, but couldn't understand why the polygamy didn't matter. Orite said because they weren't living by Western rules. Adamant, though not defensive, she told us how the king and four of the wives had defended the practice on a May 1988 episode of "Oprah"she later played it for me on her VCR.
In Yoruba society, the Oba and his wives had explained to the talk show audience, a man may marry as many wives as he can support; they may, in turn, marry and divorce successive husbands. A woman who is not taken by anyone else becomes the king's royal obligation, and he must marry her so that she will have standing and the possibility of land ownership in the community. Since women essentially acquire land through marriagewhich they may then keep if the marriage ends in death or divorcea woman without a husband is a woman without property or future.
This Yoruba custom obviously forces women to operate through male hierarchies; yet, as Orite pointed out, it also allows them a separate identity, not all that far from what Virginia Woolf called "a room of one's own," more accurately for

 

Page 205
the Yoruba a "roof' of one's own. I didn't know until sometime later how important this issue was for Iya Orite.
About nine, the king's wife said she had to get back to her house. Malaya and I stayed, talking and listening to King Sunny Adé on a jambox. It was getting late but I wasn't sleepy. Neither was Malaya. We decided to drive out to Hunting Island, about forty-five miles away, past Beaufort. But it was a good night to be out, windows down, sunroof open, breeze cutting the heat.
We got back to the village after midnight. I parked next to the gate in the clearing and as we left the car a figure carrying a rifle approached us, demanding to know who we were. It was Chief Elesin. He was a little aggressive, I thought, since he probably recognized my car, and certainly me as soon as he shone the flashlight our way. It was about then I realized his interest wasn't so much in possible intruders as with impressing Malaya. And with his dark crimson guard robes, rifle and booming voice he certainly commanded attention. The three of us sat in the patio and talked. I was unsure of the dynamic so concluded the best thing was to say goodnight.
She came to my room at 6:15 the next morning. She had slept in one of the guest chambers in the Afin. She was leaving earlyher traveling companions had to return to Washington. I was awake from the morning drum call, but not by much. She was all in white, moving in the dawn toward my cot, full of Oshun. It occurred to me I might have misjudged the previous evening. "You have to stand up," she said. "You have to hug me." I did, wearing nothing but Jockeys, and she pressed herself close.
Then she left and I lay back on the cot, the sheets still damp from my night sweats, and slept till eight, when I heard fresh tourists gathering in the bazaar patio outside my hut for the day's activities. I had to get one of them to open my doorthe wooden latch Malaya had thrown shut when she left couldn't

 

Page 206
be turned from the inside. The dozen or so fresh tourists were pretty surprised to see a sleep-rumpled white man come out, clad in striped towel and unlaced Nikes, bound for the showers. But I knew if they stuck around they'd see stranger sights than me.

 

Page 207
15
The King and His Court
As Festival Week passed, and ceremonies became sporadic, I filled the days as best I could. Many hours I would sit in the shaded patio or walk among the shrines listening to villagers tell me how they had left their former lives and traveled to South Carolina and then decided to stay, to take up the way of the orisha. Elesin had been bumping around between colleges when he learned of Oyotunji in the mid-seventies and had poured virtually the whole of his adult life into it. Orite had studied theater in New York. Iya Shango had moved down from Buffalo, New York, and never looked back. Chief Alagba, the husband of Iya Ghandi, had once been in public relations.
Early on the morning the festival reached its final day, I spotted Iya Ghandi hurrying across the commons toward her house. I'd been after her to have a beer and tell me about palo mayombe. She said it would have to wait until tomorrow or the next day. I sighed, having been told that before. She shrugged and took off. After a few steps she paused and turned to look me over. She had to "Present" Yemonja to the sea at Hunting Island that morn-
BOOK: American Voudou: Journey Into a Hidden World
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