Amy Butler's In Stitches: More Than 25 Simple and Stylish Sewing Projects (26 page)

Step 11. Attach the sides of the exterior bottom panel to the front panel with the pocket attached.

a.
First, turn the bottom raw edges of the front panel at the first clip back (the 2
¹
/
₂
″ clip), matching up the bottom raw edge with the short side raw edge on the exterior bottom panel, and pin them in place. Starting
¹
/
₂
″ in from the left side bottom raw edge of the front lining panel, stitch a
¹
/
₂
″ seam across the matched raw edges, stopping at the first clip (the 2
¹
/
₂
″ clip), backstitching at each end. Repeat this step to attach the bottom raw edge on the other short side of the exterior front panel to the other side of the exterior bottom panel.
(
FIGURE 11A
)

b.
Trim the bottom corners.
*
Using your scissors, trim the seam allowance of the 2 bottom corners of the exterior panels, making sure not to clip your stitching.

*
See page 172
for an explanation of trimming corners.

FIGURE 11A

FIGURE 12

FIGURE 15

FIGURE 16B

Step 12. Attach the sides of the bottom lining panel to the front lining panel.

First, fold the bottom seam allowances of the front lining panel in toward the Timtex side of the exterior bottom panel and press. Then, flip the bottom lining panel over the Timtex side, matching the folded short side edges of the bottom lining panel with the stitching that attaches the exterior bottom panel and pin it in place. Slip stitch
*
each short side of the bottom lining panel in place by hand. Then, machine baste a
¹
/
₄
″ seam across the matched long side raw edge of the bottom panels.
(
FIGURE 12
)

*
See page 171
for an explanation of slip stitching.

Step 13. Turn the attached front section Right side out.

Turn the front panel/pocket with the bottom panel attached
Right
side out, using a turning tool
*
to push out the corners. Fold the front pocket at the first and last stitching for the pocket compartments and press a hard crease. Press a crease at the bottom panel seams to give this section a boxy look.

*
See page 172
for an explanation of a turning tool.

Step 14. Find the center of the first back panel.

Fold the back panel (with the canvas-and-Timtex panel attached) in half lengthwise with
Right
sides together and gently press a center crease. (This center crease will be used in step 18 for centering the buttonhole on the top of the back panel.) Then, open up the panel.

Step 15. Attach the front panel section to the front side of the back panel.

First, place the lined side of the front panel/pocket section (with the bottom panel attached) onto the
Right
side of the first back panel (with the canvas-and-Timtex panel attached). Match up the side and bottom raw edges and pin them in place. Stitch a
¹
/
₂
″ seam down one side, across the bottom raw edges, and back up the other side, turning the panels at the seam that attaches the bottom panel to the front panel to make the corners of the basket, backstitching at each end.
(
FIGURE 15
)

Step 16. Attach the other back panel to the first back panel.

a.
First, fold in the front section to flatten it. Pin the front section to the attached back panel to keep it in place and out of your way. Then, with the
Right
sides together, place the unattached back panel onto the back panel with the front section attached, and pin the panels together. (This will enclose the front pocket section in between the 2 back panels.)

b.
Starting at the top left corner of the back panel, where the boning is attached, stitch a
¹
/
₂
″ seam over the top of the panel, down the right side, and across the bottom raw edges, backstitching at each end. (The panels will be stiff and bulky at this point.)
(
FIGURE 16B
)

c.
Using your scissors, trim the 2 bottom corners of the back panels, making sure not to clip your stitching. Then, trim the seam allowances to
¹
/
₄
″ across the curve at the top of the bag and along the outside curve on the side of the panels.

Step 17. Turn your Hanging Toiletry Basket Right side out.

Pull the
Right
side of the Hanging Toiletry Basket through the opening on the left side of the attached back panels. Use a turning tool to push out the seams and corners on the panels, and press the seams flat. Then, fold under
¹
/
₂
″ at the open raw edge on the second back panel and pin the opening closed. Slip stitch the opening closed by hand.

Step 18. Make a large buttonhole
*
at the top of your Hanging Toiletry Basket.

a.
Starting at the top of the back panel, measure down from the top finished edge on the center crease and make marks at 1″, 2
¹
/
₂
″, and 4″. Then, center a quarter over the center crease below the 1″ mark and using your chalk pencil draw a circle completely around the quarter.

*
See page 170
for an explanation of making a buttonhole.

b.
Next, starting on the left side of the circle, draw a line toward the center crease to the 2
¹
/
₂
″ mark. Then, draw a vertical line from the 2
¹
/
₂
″ mark down to the 4″ mark on the left side of the center crease. Repeat this step on the right side of the circle; use the buttonhole drawn on your pattern piece as a visual guide. This will be your guideline to make your buttonhole. Erase any chalk marks inside the buttonhole.
(
FIGURE 18B
)

c.
Using a small, tight zigzag stitch on your machine and starting at the 4″ mark, stitch up the left vertical chalk line, following it around the left side, over the top of the circle, and down the right side. Once you stitch to the bottom of the chalk guideline on the right side of the center crease at the 4″ mark, use a wide zigzag stitch to stitch in place 5 or 6 times to secure the 2 ends of the buttonhole.

FIGURE 18B

d.
To cut open the buttonhole, start at the 4″ mark in the middle of the 2 zigzag stitch lines, insert the pointed end of your seam ripper through all of the layers of the back panel, and cut through the back panel to open up the bottom part of the buttonhole, and then use your scissors to cut out the inside of the circle at the top part of the buttonhole, making sure not to clip your stitches with either tool.

Step 19. Make a pleat on each side of the Hanging Toiletry Basket.

Turn the Hanging Toiletry Basket so the lining side is facing out. Match up the side crease of the basket with the back seam that attaches the basket to the back panel and pin it together. Starting at the top finished edge of the basket, stitch a seam 1
¹
/
₂
″ down along the side crease, backstitching at each end. Then, to finish the project, turn the Hanging Toiletry Basket
Right
side out, using a turning tool to push out the 4 bottom corners, and press.
(
FIGURE 19
)

FIGURE 19

OVERSIZED LAUNDRY BAG

FINISHED SIZE: 20
¹
/
₂
″ WIDE × 30
¹
/
₂
″ TALL | BOTTOM PANEL: 13″ DIAMETER

With its heavy-duty construction, this biggie can handle a mountain of laundry. The comfy shoulder strap and simple drawstring closure will make those dreaded trips to the launderette much more bearable. Of course, it’s not just for laundry—you can use it to carry all sorts of stuff. Soon you’ll be wondering how you ever got by without it!