Appetite for Life: The Biography of Julia Child (82 page)

CHAPTER 22
A TIME OF LOSS (1974–1977)

Unpublished Sources

Interviews
: JC, DC, Judith Jones 10/7/93, Betty Rosbottom 1/23/97, Rosemary Manell 4/30/93, Jacques Pépin 12/5/95, Ruth Lockwood 5/7/93, Pamela Henstell 5/10/93, Rachel Child 2/24/94, Charlotte Snyder Turgeon 5/23/94, Richard Graff 2/2/96, Narcisse Chamberlain 9/7/94, Anne Willan and Mark Cherniavsky 7/25/93, Steven Raichlen 12/18/95, Douglas Dutton 4/96, Natale Rusconi 5/31/94, Faith Heller Willinger 6/7/94, Mimi Sheraton 12/3/95, Karen Hess 12/1/95, Gregory Usher 7/2/93, Paul and Sandra Sheeline 2/26/94, Zanne Early Stewart 11/15/96, Peter Kump 9/22/94, Barbara Kafka 9/22/94, Susy Davidson 2/25/94, Jeffrey Steingarten 10/29/96.

Correspondence
: Corinne Pool to NRF, 2/28/94; Pat Brown Clopper to NRF, 7/29/96; JC to Harriet Healy, 7/11/75, 6/12/75, 9/24/76, and 2/23/76; Craig Alan Wilson to NRF, 11/13/96; JC to Henri Gault and Christian Millau, 4/13/76; JC to Peter Kump, 6/11/77.

Archives
:
Schlesinger:
correspondence, PC to CC (infrequent because of PC’s aphasia), JC, SB, LB, Craig Claiborne, MFKF, AD, CC and FC, Elizabeth David, Helen McCully, Anne Willan/Mark Cherniavsky, Robert H. Johnson, Alfred A. Knopf Publishers, Richard Graff, Shirley Sarvis, Narcisse Chamberlain; the Hess file; JC book and article manuscripts.
Beinecke:
Francis and Hank Brennan, Richard Myers Papers.
Private:
Family medical records, JC and PC datebooks, 1974–77; mss. of JC’s
McCall’s
reviews, itineraries, JC and DC correspondence (courtesy DC).

Published Sources

“departed from the professorial”: Bill Rice, “Julia and Simca: An Enduring Entente,”
Washington Post
(Oct. 3, 1974): HI.

“personal [and] no less precise”: Mimi Sheraton, “The Best Cookbooks of 1975,”
New York
(Nov. 24, 1975): 100.

“wonderfully sensuous”: Gail Jennes, “Couple” (cover),
People
(Dec. 1, 1975): 51.

“just that Paris PR game,”: John Kifner, “The New French Food Revolution? Julia Child Says ‘Humph,’”
New York Times
(Sept. 5, 1975): L12.

“This food looks fingered”: Stephen Wadsworth, “Julia Sums Up,”
Dial
(1980): 23.

“the apparent culinary equivalent”: Robert Clark,
James Beard: A Biography
(NY: HarperCollins, 1993): 290.

“they might see Fannie Farmer”: Laura Shapiro,
Perfection Salad: Women and Cooking at the Turn of the Century
(NY: Farrar, Straus & Giroux, 1986): 231.

“Obviously somebody was pulling”: JC, “‘La Nouvelle Cuisine’: A Skeptic’s View,”
New York (July
4, 1977): 32.

“I
never
have anything to do with housewives”: quoted in Walter Blum, “The Joy of Julia,”
California Living
(April 28, 1974): 23.

“We never talk about women”: Quoted Wadsworth,
Dial
, 23.

“gone into restaurant work”: “Julia at 80: With Christopher Lydon” (1992), WGBH video.

“it wasn’t until”: Interview,
TV Guide
(Dec. 5, 1970): 46. Repeated in video of Valley Hunt Club speech.

“no feminist”: Helen Civelli Brown, “Topic-hopping with JC,”
San Francisco Examiner
(Dec. 4, 1975): 29.

“No. I’m from a different generation”: Curtis Hartman and Steven Raichlen, “JC: The Boston Magazine Interview,”
Boston
(April 1981): 78.

“is a symbol of women’s liberation”: Brown,
San Francisco Examiner
, 29.

“the Women’s Liberation Movement”: John Mariani,
America Eats Out
(NY: Morrow, 1991): 217.

“Western philosophers”: Deane W. Curtin and Lisa M. Hendke,
Cooking, Eating, Thinking: Transformation Philosophies of Food
(Bloomington: Indiana Univ. Press, 1992): xiii.

“I guess I am liberated”: “Are Liberated Women Happier?”
San Francisco Examiner
(Sept. 4, 1975): 23.

“public caterwauling” and “packaging”: JC, “A White House Menu,”
New York Times Magazine
(Jan. 16, 1977): 57.

“a vituperative and angry critique”: Clark,
Beard
, 291. Their book, says Clark, illustrates “the Hesses’ own immersion in the bitchery and petty subculture they claimed to deplore,” 272.

“gourmet plague”: John L. Hess and Karen Hess,
The Taste of America
(NY: Grossman, 1977): 152.

“French cuisine in America”: Karen Hess, “The Gourmet Plague,”
Atlantic
(Aug. 1977): 62.

“I’d rather eat them than airline food”: Curtis and Raichlen,
Boston
, 83.

“after a crash course”: Hess and Hess,
The Taste of America
, 191. JC wrote to her friend Robert Manning, the editor of
Atlantic
, that “Mrs. Hess’s brutal public flogging is too sadistic for enjoyment.” George Lang responded on Jan. 3, 1978 (with a copy to JC), to the Hesses’ “Palate, Politics and Puffery” in
Politicks & Other Human Interests
(Oct. 25, 1977): 26.

“the older we get”: Beverley Jackson, “Dinner with JC,”
Santa Barbara News-Press
(Jan. 9, 1977): D4.

“It’s gotten much more expensive”: Clifford A. Ridley, “La Cuisine? La Julia!”
National Observer
(May 1, 1976): 20.

CHAPTER 23
THE COMPANY SHE KEEPS (1977–1980)

Unpublished Sources

Interviews
: JC, Russell and Marian Morash 12/14/94, Henry Becton, Jr., 1/21/97, Ruth Lockwood 5/7/93 and 12/18/94, E. S. (Peggy) Yntema 4/20/95, Betty Rosbottom 12/7/96, Anne Willan 7/25/93, Patricia and Herbert Pratt 5/24/94, Sara Moulton 9/23/94, Janice Goldklang 9/23/94, Jane Friedman 10/31/96, Pamela Henstell 5/10/93, Stephanie Hersh 11/29/94, Maggie Mah 2/4/96, Rosemary Manell 4/30/93, Richard Graff 2/2/96, Jacques Pépin 12/5/95 and 8/31/96, Nancy Verde Barr 12/13/95. Barbara Sims-Bell interview with JC 7/1/89.

Correspondence
: Dorothea Freifrau von Stetten to NRF, 7/28/96; Catherine Gewertz to NRF, 7/9/96; Alison Boteler to NRF, 9/15/93; E. S. Yntema to NRF, 2/1/97.

Archives
:
Schlesinger:
PC letter-diary to CC (intermittent), 1977–80; mss. and correspondence related to
& Company
books and TV programs; contracts with ABC; correspondence JC, MFKF, SB, AD, James Beard, E. S. (Peggy) Yntema (contract letter, 12/23/77), Madeleine Kamman, Elizabeth David, Rosemary Manell, Marian Morash, and Shirley Sarvis.
Private:
JC datebooks and records; correspondence JC and DC (courtesy DC).
Broadway Video:
NBC’s
SNL
, 12/9/78 (courtesy Mike Bosey).
Alfred A. Knopf:
JC promotion itineraries (courtesy Pamela Henstell).

Published Sources

“a child who”: Jeannette Ferrary, “Julia—Child of Our Times” [review of
JC & Company]:
clipping.

“I don’t think”: JC interview with Barbara Sims-Bell, July 1, 1989. By January 1978, the following numbers had sold: 803,455,000 copies of the two
Mastering
books (Vol. I accounted for 561,115); 259,870
French Chef Cookbook;
138,301
Kitchen
(just pub.)—for a total of 1,201,626.

“I don’t do anything”: G. S. Boudain, “JC Is Stirring Up More Treats,”
New York Times
(Dec. 24, 1977): D27.

“Julia knows how”: Jack Shelton, “JC Knows How to Listen,”
Focus
, San Francisco’s KQED magazine (March 1980): 38.

“I learn something new”: Stephen Wadsworth, “Julia Sums Up,”
Dial
(1981): 24.

“I’d like to get some”: Nao Hauser, “JC: Her Life, Her Great Love, and Her Future,”
Chicago Tribune
(March 3, 1980): 4.

“alone worth the price”: Mimi Sheraton (review),
New York Times Book Review
(Dec. 3, 1978): 14.

“syncopated like jazz”: Hauser,
Chicago Tribune
, 4.

“She gives us”: Ferrary, clipping.

“She’s a serenely gawky”: Wadsworth,
Dial
, 21.

“rather eat a tablespoon”: Cathy Von Klemperer, “JC Returns to Hubbard House,”
Daily Hampshire Gazette
(April 11, 1978): clipping.

“She only liked food and men”: PC quoted by Hauser,
Chicago Tribune
, 4.

“As soon as you’re off television”: quoted in Corby Kummer, “Turning Points: JC,”
Quest
(1980): 104.

“We were awfully lucky”: Hauser,
Chicago Tribune
, 1.

“You can’t do nothin’”: Dan Aykroyd,
Saturday Night Live
, NBC, Dec. 9, 1978.

“use of her name”: “JC Sues Hotel on the Use of Her Name,”
New York Times
(April 5, 1984): III, 11.

“We just KILLED ourselves”: Wadsworth,
Dial
, 23.

“I’m [also] interested in the freshness”: Susan Rogers, “Food for Thought from JC,”
New York Post
(Feb. 18, 1972): 46.

CHAPTER 24
PACIFIC OVERTURES (1981–1984)

Unpublished Sources

Interviews
: Interviews with JC, DC, Robert Huttenback 5/7/94, Richard Graff 2/2/96, Alice Waters 2/6/96, Dorothy Cann Hamilton 12/14/95, Mary Tonetti Dorra 5/6/94, Margrit Biever (Mondavi) 2/3/96, Maggie Mah 2/4/96, Rosemary Manell 4/30/93, Elizabeth (Betty) Kubler 9/26/94, Russell and Marian Morash 12/14/94, Ruth Lockwood 5/7/93, Charlotte Snyder Turgeon 5/23/94, Faith Heller Willinger 5/7/94, Nancy Verde Barr 12/13/95, Barbara Kafka 9/22/94, Mimi Sheraton 12/3/95, Dun Gifford 12/14/94, Roberta Klugman 5/7/94, Ken Frank 8/26/96, Wolfgang Puck 8/26/96, Barbara Sims-Bell, 9/6/96, George Trescher 10/29/96, Paul Levy 1/30/89, Marion Cunningham 2/9/96, Susy Davidson 2/25/94, Stephanie Hersh 11/29/94, Patricia Wells 9/4/95, Clark Wolf 4/23/96, Jane Bollinger 10/28/96, and Michael McCarty, 3/27/97. Betty Fussell interview with JC and PC 10/27/81. Barbara Sims-Bell interview with JC 10/27/81.

Correspondence
: Paul Bohannan to NRF, 7/21/96; Jane Owen Molard to NRF, 9/21/96; Martha Culbertson to NRF, 3/18/95; Richard Graff to JC and others, 10/9/81; Barbara Pool Fenzl to NRF, 9/11/93.

Archives
:
Schlesinger:
correspondence JC, SB, AD, LB, and James Beard; JC to SB, 11/6/76 (on recipes).
AIWF
, San Francisco: timeline, historical documents, charter, publications.
Private:
JC datebooks, 1981–84; JC to President and Mrs. Reagan, 4/14/84; JC files and records.

Published Sources

“could effectively lose weight”: Robert Clark,
James Beard: A Biography
(NY: HarperCollins, 1993): 175.

“slender hips”: Betty Fussell, typed notes of two-hour taping at ABC Studio, Oct. 27, 1981, for
Masters of American Cookery
(NY: Times, 1983).

“I do solemnly swear”: JC, “Recipes That Helped Me Lose 20 Pounds,”
McCall’s
(Oct. 1981): 54.

“Only Moses disrupting the Red Sea”: Judy Hevrdejs, “Julia at the Housewares Show,”
Chicago Tribune
(Jan. 22, 1981): Sec. 7, 3.

“most important assemblage”: Richard H. Graff, “Launching the Institute,”
Journal of Gastronomy
(Summer 1984): 112. Graff’s account is a brief summary.

“hanging ten on their own”: Charles Perry, “Grade ‘
A’
Gourmets,”
California Magazine
(Feb. 1982): 27.

“Two of the best cooks”: Charles Perry, Laura Ochoa, and Irene Virbila’s cover story of the 25th anniversary of Chez Panisse,
Los Angeles Times
, Food section (Aug. 22, 1996): Al, H1-2, 8, 10.

“In the early 1980s”: Ruth Reichl, “And for Dinner? How About Fun?”
New York Times
(March 26, 1997): B1.

“We always have to be ready”: Michael S. Lasky, “And a Child Shall Lead Them,”
Focus
(Nov. 1982): 56–61.

“What are your plans”: the Dear Abby column ran in multiple cities, June 1982. JC requested that her lawyer, who collected all angry and threatening letters, send her all the Dear Abby/Planned Parenthood mail.

“slogging through viscous mud”: Michael Demarest, “Thoroughly American Julia,”
Time
(April 18, 1983): 78–79.

“Afro”: Barbara Hensen, “JC Acquires Fresh Image for Her New TV Series,”
Los Angeles Times
(June 9, 1983): VIII, 1.

“Shows her at her bubbly” and “in a wardrobe”: Michael Demarest, “Dinner at Julia’s,”
United
(Oct. 1983): 65, 66.

“convey a sense”: John J. O’Connor, “Dinner at Julia’s,”
New York Times
(Nov. 17, 1983): 27.

“cost $1,000 a week”: Phyllis C. Richman, “Making Dinner at Julia’s,”
Washington Post
(April 13, 1983): E1, 16. Other chefs appearing on
Dinner at Julia’s
were Brad Ogden (Kansas City), Leeslee Reiss (Chicago), Jean Claude (Dallas), and Yves Labbe (Miami).

“the dawning of a new age”: Harvey Steiman, “An Extravaganza of American Cuisine,”
San Francisco Examiner
(May 11, 1983): E1.

“A Summit of U.S. Cuisine”: Margaret Mallory, “A Summit of U.S. Cuisine,”
San Francisco Tribune
(May 11, 1983): clipping.

“an important part … natural role as leaders”: William Rice quoted by Steiman,
Examiner
, E2.

“Chefs are on a par”: JC quoted by Steiman,
Examiner
, E2.

“the revolution in food”: Maggie Crum, “A Festival of Food & Wine,”
Contra Costa Times
(May 11, 1983): D2. Macy’s (where Julia gave cooking demonstrations that week), American Express, and
Food & Wine
magazine (a publication of AmEx) sponsored the “American Celebration,” May 3–5, 1983.

“a kind of Pearl Harbor”: Clark,
Beard
, 321–22.

“JC is … generous”: Ann Barr and Paul Levy,
The Official Foodie Handbook
(NY: Arbor House, 1984): 113.

“Party Chairman”: James Reginato, “Party Chairman,”
W
(Nov. 1995): 150.

“Two million dollars!”: Barr and Levy,
Official Foodie Handbook
, 107.