At Home with Chinese Cuisine (7 page)

Soy Sauce

Soy sauce (JiangYou in Chinese which translates literally to mean soy paste oil) is a common condiment in the Chinese kitchen larder.
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It originated in China, and the predecessor of soy sauce was said to be a fermented liquid from fresh meats, full of the taste of umami, for the consumption of the imperial household and people of means. By the third century BC, soybeans and wheat, the main ingredients of soy sauce, were plentiful and were food for common people. Fermented soybean produce was also available.
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The Buddhist monks were credited with introducing the fermentation methods abroad to Japan as early as in the eighth century, but it wasn’t until the twelfth century that there is the first documentary evidence of the popular use of soy sauce among the general public.

The traditional and natural way of producing the sauce is by fermenting soybeans (the main source of protein), wheat, or barley (the main source of carbohydrate) with salt, water, natural yeasts, and microbes from the open air for around six to twelve months. The raw ingredients used, the natural micro-organisms near the production site, the quality of the water used, and the differing local fermentation methods all affect the flavour of the sauce. It has geographical characteristics and is a product of the place it comes from, reminiscent of the concept of terroir in wine making. The production of soy sauce is often a boutique operation; this variety of soy sauce fetches a premium price and is sought after by people in the know.

With the advancement of manufacturing technology, mass production of industrially fermented soy sauce, chemically blended soy sauce, a blend of the two, and low-sodium soy sauce dominate the supermarket sales in China and in the West. In order to compare and contrast the naturally fermented soy sauce with the industrial version, one should use the raw ingredients as the starting point. These days, defatted beans (in the form of pressed soybean oil meal or solvent-extracted oil meal) have replaced soybeans, and wheat has been substituted by wheat bran or flour. Defatted beans are a low-cost source of protein; they also shorten the fermentation period, which means that there is less time for colour and aroma molecules to develop. The colour of the sauce becomes more intense with a longer fermentation period. For the industrial chemical method that takes less than a week to complete, caramel or other artificial colourings have to be added to darken the colour.

Because it is impossible for around three hundred flavour compounds identified from the soy sauce fermentation process to be present in a short period of time, flavour enhancers such as MSG could be added to the industrial version. There is less glycerol in soy sauce made from defatted beans, and so maltose or other artificial sweeteners also have to be used in the industrial version to give the product the desired level of sweetness. In addition, a preservative has to be added to soy sauce made from defatted beans because it is not as stable and is prone to yeast invasion when exposed to the air.

The two common varieties of soy sauce available in the West are the light and dark soy sauces. The light one has the generic name of “soy sauce” on the label unless specified otherwise. It is saltier in taste and thinner in texture, with a reddish brown colour. Its main purpose is to give the taste of saltiness. The dark soy sauce is red-brown in colour and is less salty by comparison. It has a higher viscosity and more concentrated flavour. It is often used to give deeper colour to the food. For soy sauce lovers who are addicted to the flavour of fermented bean produce, darker soy sauce is often the only soy sauce they use in the kitchen.

Naturally fermented soy sauce has a colour that falls somewhere between that of the light and dark soy sauce. In the mind of Chinese, it is the aroma from the esters and the sweet yet savoury taste of umami that are synonymous with soy sauce. The sauce enriches the flavour of the dish by imparting the taste of umami from the high glutamate acids it contains. With the presence of amino acids and sugars in the sauce, adding a teaspoon of the sauce to stir-fry rice instantly enlivens the dish with aroma, colour, and tastes. Even though the soy sauce contains sodium and gives saltiness to the dish, it is not a substitute for salt. The ideal time to add the sauce in cooking is towards the end of the cooking process. The soy sauce is not suitable for long periods of high-heat cooking. High heat cooking can negatively affect the nutrients it contains, such as B vitamins, and it will lose the freshness of the umamic taste. The sweetness of the sauce will turn a bit bitter, and it will taste more acidic.

Buying
tips
for
soy
sauce:
There have been various cases of contamination associated with soy sauce in recent years. Before shopping, we need to identify reputable soy sauce manufacturers first. Read the label on the bottle carefully as with the purchase of other condiments. The label should provide the mandatory information such as ingredients, production method and the expiry date. Go for the preservative-free one that should have instructions on the label to store the bottle in the fridge after opening.

The naturally fermented soy sauce made of natural ingredients that follows the traditional method of production is in a league of its own. There are a few Taiwanese brands of naturally fermented soy sauce using black beans and following the traditional fermentation process. They are sold with a price premium and can be found in high-end shops in China.

There are different tests to confirm the quality of this variety of soy sauce. One of them is to tilt the bottle to observe the liquid and shake it to observe bubbles. The liquid should be clear. The bubbles should be fine and long lasting.

Vinegar

The ancient scripts that mention the word “vinegar” can be traced back to the Western Zhou Dynasty more than three thousand years ago. Most of the vinegars have been made from single or multiple grains such as glutinous rice, sorghum, wheat, and millets. The brewing process requires an alcohol base from the grain or grains of choice. The alcohol base is then fermented with Chhu. The final product is the acidic liquid we know as vinegar.

The variety of vinegar we see in the UK is labelled according to the alcohol base used. For example, cider vinegar is made from the alcohol base of fermented apple juice called cider. We do not label it as apple vinegar. Sherry vinegar is made using sherry as the alcohol base; we do not label it as grape vinegar. The Chinese vinegar can be labelled in different ways. It can be according to the grain or grains used. The vinegar made from the fermented rice wine is sold as rice vinegar. Or the vinegar is known by the name of the geographical area it comes from and the grain or grains used. One can also find the common cooking vinegar labelled by its colour and sold as white (transparent) and black vinegar.

Vinegar has a long standing in the history of traditional Chinese medicine. Its medicinal property was recognised for treating skin diseases and common colds and coughs in the dietary therapy.
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In recent years, the consumption of vinegar and its health benefits – lowering LDL (bad) cholesterol level and improving blood circulation – have aroused much interest among the general public.

The acetic acid in vinegar has also been a food topic that is much discussed in China. It circles around how we can benefit fully from foods rich in calcium. Calcium is an essential mineral for maintaining healthy bone structure, the deficiency of which may lead to osteoporosis and other bone-related health problems. Vinegar contains acetic acids that assist the release of calcium in the food; it also contains minerals, such as magnesium, that facilitate the absorption of calcium by the body. Traditionally fermented vinegars high in acetic acids have caught the attention of not only householders but also entrepreneurs who spotted the niche markets of vinegar-inspired health drinks.

Due to the difference in both the raw ingredients used and the fermentation process, there is a wide range of vinegar available in China, and each has a distinctive flavour. They have been around for generations, and so people’s choice of vinegar is often an indication of from where they were raised. People from the provinces where the vinegars are produced consume their local vinegar with addiction and unparalleled loyalty.

The Chinese are particular about which vinegar is used for what purpose. Some taste the best as a dip, and others are used solely for cooking. When vinegar is used in cooking, it can be added at various stages depending upon whether it is the aroma or the acidity the cook wants to use. It can be added to the wok at the beginning of the cooking process for its acidity. Cooks often drizzle vinegar on the rim towards the end of cooking to release the volatile aroma molecules into the air as an announcement that the dish will soon be ready to serve. Aged vinegar can also be drizzled onto the dish after plating for both the acidity and the aroma.

There are four renowned vinegars in China. The best-known one must be ZhenJiang rice vinegar (ZhenJiang Xiang Cu, GIP). It is a rice-based vinegar from the JiangSu Province in the south. The rice cultivation in southern China sees its influence not only on the rice as the major source of carbohydrate; there is also a wide range of rice-based products incorporated into people’s daily diets. The rice-based wine, such as the ShauXing wine, is an example. The vinegar that uses the rice wine as the alcohol base is another.

This vinegar is closely linked to local diet in that young vinegar is used as a condiment, whereas matured vinegar is reserved for dips and for drizzling over cooked dishes after plating. For the locals, it is a natural partner to steamed fish, steamed dumplings, and noodle dishes. A well-known pairing with this vinegar is a dish of cured pork in jelly with the vinegar as the dip; the pair was one of the cold plates that were presented at the first Chinese National Banquet in 1949. Another famous match is with steamed crabs and the ShauXing wine. Young Zhen
Jiang rice vinegar, a pinch of light brown sugar, and finely chopped or shredded fresh ginger gently warmed up in the pan can serve as a dip with steamed crabs, and when it is accompanied by lukewarm aged ShauXing wine, it is the definitive autumn and winter gastronomical delight.

ZhenJiang rice vinegar has a dark brown colour that turns darker as it ages. The method deployed in aging the vinegar is to store the young one in ceramic jars and expose it to the elements in the open air for as long as three to five years, or even longer. The first time I opened an aged bottle given to me by a friend from ZhenJiang, its unique scent of esters caught my attention. It explains why this vinegar is known in China as ZhenJiang fragrant vinegar. The sweetness accompanying the soft and mellow acidity on the tongue reminded me of the traditional balsamic vinegar of Modena from Italy. The similarity between the two vinegars also extends to the intensity of the flavour. The length of a small drop of the very old ZhenJiang vinegar lingers long after the meal.

To be qualified for the GIP status, ZhenJiang rice vinegar has to be produced in accordance with the sanctioned traditional methods in the city of ZhenJiang in JiangSu Province. It has to be free of any artificial colourings or flavourings. Aged bottles with GIP status are often sold in gift packs by producers themselves and are not available in supermarkets. Passing off is again a common problem. For the genuine article, purchase it directly from the producers, or take a trip to ZhenJiang city and take the opportunity to soak up the atmosphere. The aroma of the vinegar is literally in every corner of the city.

ZhenJiang rice vinegar was granted the European Union PGI quality status in 2012.
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The young rice vinegar for cooking can now be found in Chinese or Oriental grocery shops in the UK. Look for the bottle with both the Chinese GIP and EU PGI symbols for the genuine article.

ShanXi old-aged
vinegar (ShanXi Lau Chen Cu, GIP) is made from a mixture of sorghum wine, bran and husks of grains, and the added yeasts (made from broad beans and barley). The young vinegar undergoes a smoking process prior to being left to age in the ceramic jars. It is this distinctive smoky aroma that gets people hooked on the vinegar. The vinegar is then left to age with the solids. The final product is sold as old-aged vinegar. It is a comparatively full-bodied, robust liquid that is rich in amino acids. It is the vinegar of choice for Northerners because it suits the their palate for a stronger-flavoured diet.

People in ShanXi love their vinegar. It was told that if they encountered each other on the battlefield, the tacit agreement was that they would not aim their weapon at each other’s vinegar jars attached to their belts. They are also known for their fondness of vinegar-based drinks; this is partly due to the well-recognised medicinal properties in TCM for the prevention of common cold, as well as the relief of indigestion from overeating, headaches, nosebleeds, and more. According to the locals, it is also because they are brought up with vinegars ever present in their diet to deal with the alkaline water source in the area.

This vinegar has been granted the GIP status by the Chinese government. But again, not all old-aged sorghum wine vinegar from ShanXi Province conforms to legislated production processes and standards. It is always advisable to purchase the bottle from reliable vendors and look for the GIP logo on the label.

SiChuan Province is the territory of BaoNing vinegar, and it is a grain-based vinegar, but it does not use the rice or sorghum wine as the alcohol base for fermentation. The major ingredients of this vinegar include wheat, glutinous rice, and husks. They are traditionally made in the winter using the water from the JiaLing River 
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when the water is the clearest. The unique reddish brown colour comes from the Chhu, which is made from more than sixty varieties of herbs and spices that are commonly used in TCM. They include cloves, eucommia bark, fructur amoni rotundus, and amomum xanthroides. That is why BaoNing vinegar is described as medicinal vinegar. It gives the spicy SiChuan dishes such as Gong Bao Diced Chicken and Shredded Pork with Fish Fragrance their authentic flavours.