ALSO BY BETH HENSPERGER
Bread
Baking Bread
Bread for All Seasons
Beth’s Basic Bread Book
Breads of the Southwest
The Bread Bible
The Pleasure of Whole Grain Breads
Bread Made Easy
The Best Quick Breads
The Harvard Common Press
535 Albany Street
Boston, Massachusetts 02118
Copyright © 2000 by Beth Hensperger
Illustrations copyright © 2000 by Kristin Hurlin
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher.
Printed in the United States of America
Printed on acid-free paper
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Hensperger, Beth.
The bread lover’s bread machine cookbook : a master baker’s 300 favorite recipes for perfect-every-time bread, from every kind of machine / Beth Hensperger; illustrations by Kristin Hurlin.
p. cm.
Includes bibliographical references and index.
ISBN 1-55832-155-1 (cloth : alk. paper)—ISBN 1-55832-156-X (pbk. : alk. paper)
1. Bread. 2. Automatic bread machines. I. Title.
TX769 .H4435 2000
641.8’15—dc21
99-087358
ISBN: 978-1-55832-156-4
Special bulk-order discounts are available on this and other Harvard Common Press books. Companies and organizations may purchase books for premiums or for resale, or may arrange a custom edition, by contacting the Marketing Director at the address above.
Cover photographs by Eric Roth
Text illustrations by Kristin Hurlin
Cover and book design by Night & Day Design
21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
M
y thanks to editors Dan Rosenberg and Laura Rosenberg. Their interest, intelligent comments, commitment, and hard work have made this book a reality. Laura skillfully and patiently worked with me—assisting on every step of editing the multiple manuscript drafts—with friendly encouragement and sensitive advice. Thank you to the publicists and staff at Harvard Common Press who assisted in the preparation, presentation, and publicizing of this cookbook. And thanks to our project manager, Julie Stillman, wielding her red pen, for her expertise in editing and time spent on overall organization.
To my peerless agent, Martha Casselman, my admiration and sincere gratitude for her counsel every step of the way, from proposal to galley and beyond. Her knowledge and talent are invaluable. Thanks to her assistant, Judith Armenta, for her enthusiastic encouragement and, well, just being there.
Thank you to the following contributors; some provided information, others equipment and ingredients, furthering the information available on this new dimension of baking: Susan Anderson of the Regal Corporation; Lisa Brugellis, Welbilt and Appliance Company of America; Jenny Collier, Sunbeam Consumer Affairs; Jeff Hamano, Zojirushi Corporation of America; Dave Oestreicher and Hope Yingst of Hodgson Mill, Inc.; Jim Rogers, Panasonic Corporation; Brinna Sands and P. J. Hamel of King Arthur Flour; Don Stinchcomb of Purity Foods, Inc.; Barbara Westfield of Breadman/Salton; Chuck Williams of Williams-Sonoma; and Randy Watts, President of SAF Consumer Affairs, who donated
cases
of yeast for this project (I used it all!).
I wish to express my appreciation to the following recipe testers and contributors for their helpful suggestions, comments, and encouragement: food writer Lynn Alley; Mary Cech of the Culinary Institute of America at Greystone; Andi Compton; food writer Marcy Goldman; Erin Kovacs; Jaqueline Higuera McMahan; Gayle and Joe Ortiz; Lou Pappas; M. Quento, who donated the first test machine; Meg Rohacek; Suzanne Rosenblum; Helena Rutkowski; Margery Schneider; Barbara and Jerry Smith; David SooHoo and Elaine Corn; Judith Taylor; Chef Greg Topham, East Meets West Catering Company.
And to Bobbe Torgerson, my recipe tester extraordinaire for many years now, who skillfully and consistently tests myriad recipes with a fine mind to detail and a good heart. I owe her more than I can say or than she would admit.
I wish to add a special note on the contributions of the late Mary Anne McCready, whose generous involvement on this project evolved quickly from recipe tester to co-worker. She was the source of inspiration for many of these recipes and kept me turning out the work on a daily basis; the two of us along with the machines lined up on her kitchen counter, sorting through the initial pile of hundreds of recipe ideas. Her husband, George, ate a
lot
of bread. Her spirit resides within.
CONTENTS
Title Page
Copyright Page
Acknowledgments
America’s New Bread Box
Batterie de Cuisine: Know Your Bread Machine
Making Bread
Daily Breads: White Breads and Egg Breads
White Breads
Egg Breads
One-Pound Loaves
Pasta Doughs from Your Bread Machine
Earth’s Bounty: Whole Wheat, Whole-Grain, and Specialty Flour Breads
Whole Wheat Breads
Rye Breads
Specialty Flour Breads
Multigrain Breads
Gluten-Free Breads
Traditional Loaves: Country Breads and Sourdough Breads
Country Breads
Sourdough Breads
All Kinds of Flavors: Breads Made with the Produce of the Garden, Orchard, and Creamery
Herb, Nut, Seed, and Spice Breads
Savory Vegetable and Fruit Breads
Cheese Breads
Mixes and Some Special Breads Created from Them
Stuffing Breads
Circle, Squares, and Crescents: Pizzas and Other Flatbreads
Sweet Loaves: Chocolate, Fruit, and Other Sweet Breads
Breakfast Breads
Coffee Cakes and Sweet Rolls
Chocolate Breads
Holiday Breads
Express Lane Bread: No-Yeast Quick Breads
Jams, Preserves, and Chutneys in Your Bread Machine
Appendix 1 Bits and Pieces:
Crumbs, Croutons, Crostini, and Toasted Appetizers
Appendix 2 To Eat with Your Bread:
Spreads, Butters, Cheeses, and Vegetables
AMERICA’S NEW BREAD BOX
T
he bread machine. Words that strike terror into the hearts of artisan bakers and advocates of hands-on home baking, while conjuring up visions of delight to the ever-growing hordes of baking enthusiasts who claim they would never bake bread without a machine. An all-in-one appliance that is certainly an innovation in a time-honored craft, a bread machine creates fresh, satisfying, full-flavored yeast breads with no compromise of standards. A large part of the reason that people get so much joy from bread machine baking has little to do with the appliance itself, but comes from the deep emotional value of making bread. Bread machine baking brings the same rewards as any other type of baking. Whether you went out and bought a new machine, inherited one from a friend who never used it, or picked one up at a church rummage sale, whether you embrace this method of baking immediately or retain some skepticism, you will be thrilled with the results if you give this appliance a fair run. Bread machine baking boasts a fast-growing number of advocates, and seekers of gastronomic truth certainly now have to include the bread machine next to pasta makers, cappuccino machines, heavy-duty electric mixers, and food processors on their list of innovations in food preparation that are here to stay. Quite simply, bread machines make fantastic bread.
If, like me, you tried years ago to use a bread machine and were disappointed with the quality of the loaves, take heed: There is a new generation of machines that are nothing short of remarkable. Along with improvements to the hardware, a solid batch of knowledge has accumulated about how to work effectively with the medium. The common denominator in the new and growing world of bread machine baking is the same enthusiasm, friendliness, and spirit of generosity that generally mark the baker’s realm. With some of its activity newly housed in a plastic body, the old-fashioned skill of baking must add a whole new vocabulary to its jargon.
Bread machines are made now by a dozen manufacturers and come in many more dozens of models, with a variety of features and sizes to choose from. They are not only easy to use, but inspire you to customize your own baking cycles and end up turning out breads that rival supermarket loaves and even some bakeries, with their thin, crisp crusts and even, soft-textured crumb. Bread machine baking requires so little of your time that you can enjoy the luxury of fresh bread every day, the way things ought to be. When all the hassle of baking is removed, you can enjoy the entire process—from shopping for ingredients to hearing the cries of delight from appreciative eaters. With its impressive repertoire of recipes, bread machines can produce bread for everyone and every lifestyle. The bread machine has found a market in many who would otherwise never bake, but enjoy good bread: those with the busiest schedules, like on-the-go moms with little children, bakers who have physical disabilities that might prevent them from preparing bread by hand, and lots of folks, especially men, who love the fact that baking good bread now includes the chance to program digital commands similar to their VCRs. The bread machine has won over many people already skilled at baking by hand, but it has also reached many who were not inspired to learn to bake bread by an older method. Through the bread machine they were introduced to, and are now hooked on, the evocative aroma, taste, and texture of homemade bread.
As someone who was professionally trained as a baker and worked in the field for twenty-five years, naturally I always encouraged fledgling bakers to make bread by hand, using their senses to become familiar with yeast doughs. Once, while teaching a class in this manner, I was approached by a student who was older. “Are you telling me that I can’t make bread?” she inquired as I proselytized on the handcrafted technique. “I have crippling arthritis and I love to bake. I use either the food processor or the bread machine, and I love the bread I make.” She gave me pause to think. Then and there I adapted my opinions and decided that whatever tool could enable a person to make good bread was fine. I began making doughs with an electric mixer, a food processor, and ultimately the bread machine. I found that the practical, mystical, and spiritual elements that make baking satisfying remain the same no matter how you get to the finished loaf.