Cambridge (15 page)

Arnold and I continued our skyward journey in silence, which gave me the opportunity to survey the beauty of the abundant flora all around. The hill was shaded with trees, the master of which was the carnation. On account of its not growing above ten feet high, this tree can be numbered among those aromatic
shrubs
which exhale the most agreeable fragrances. Its dark crimson flowers were observed to be often spotted with white, its leaves a cool and inviting dark green. Among the other species were the passion flowers, which grew in every hedge and twined around every tree. The passion fruit is a speciality of the tropical table, and everywhere I observed both fruit and flower jointly ornamenting the bush.

Presently we arrived at a grassy clearing where Arnold
instructed two negro servants, Glasgow and Bo, who had travelled independently to rendezvous with us here. They unpacked in silence and began to prepare our luncheon. Arnold and I wandered some twenty yards to the west and discovered a picturesque, shaded, though now deserted cottage, which had the great advantage of a magnificent prospect over the ocean. Hawthorn Cottage, explained Arnold, formerly belonged to a French family who in the earlier days of settlement, when it was imperative for those who suffered religious persecution to find some part of the earth where they might feel safe, happened upon this tropical haven. In recent years the cottage has lain abandoned in this perfect wilderness, allowing tall grasses and climbing weeds unchallenged domain. Yet, despite the bat and the lizard, and other less pleasant creatures who have made it their own, Hawthorn Cottage has remained popular as a picnic site, although rarely do such
al fresco
groups intrude upon one another in this well-concealed location. Arnold suggested that while our black pair completed their task we might stroll through its deserted shell. Like the greater number of West Indian houses, the cottage was built with open rafters and unglazed windows, to allow maximum circulation of air and penetration of light. The wooden shutters (some of which hung sadly) would be raised during the day by means of a long stick, and at night the stick would be withdrawn and the shutter attached to the window-ledge by means of a hook to an eye. The earthen floor was much in need of repair, and it was evident that the chimney would probably deny passage to any smoke, although in this climate it was unlikely that fires would often be lit. But this aside, the cottage appeared functional and somewhat inviting. I lingered awhile until we were disturbed by the ail-too familiar bray of negro voices.

In order that we might guard against the intrusion of disagreeable flying pests, as was customary, we employed both our blacks to stand over us while we took luncheon, bearing large pendant branches of the coconut. These they took in
their broad negro paws, and waved this foliage backwards and forwards creating a pleasing fragrance while at the same time raising a gentle breeze. I ate quickly, and with the happy appetite of one exhausted by adventurous labour. Arnold turned the conversation back beyond the unpleasantness of the poor
white negroes, to the nature of the slave-court, and shared with me his views on the punishment of negroes. 'Judicious firmness' might be a summary of his feelings on this issue, but on one point he was adamant. And this was that only he, among the white men of our plantation, should presume to strike a negro with the omnipotent lash, no matter how great the offence. In addition, no abusive language, as distinct from physical punishment, should be used against them. Clearly Arnold took it upon himself to be the sole authority when it came to justice for the negro. He informed me that he had already discharged one book-keeper on this account, for in a dispute with an African named Israel, the book-keeper had not only kicked the unfortunate negro but had the insolence to assault him with the name, 'dirty nigger'. Apparently the black, Israel, came the next day to see Arnold and made an earnest petition. Four eye-witnesses were summoned, examined separately, and the truth of Israel's ill-usage proved. The villifier of the negro remained steadfast in his denial of the assault, but he was discharged after being told that his possession of a white skin was no ground for belief in his word over the negro's. According to Arnold the negroes celebrated this decision for several days.

Unfortunately, sooner than either of us could have possibly imagined, an opportunity presented itself for the testing of Arnold's theories on negro punishment. We returned to the plantation in the late afternoon, travelling the greater part of our upward journey beneath the dense roof of branches which allowed the penetration of only the occasional dim shaft of sunlight. These rare beams splashed on the thin, dusty track,' forming small circular pools of light whose shimmer provided
the illumination by which we picked our slow way home. No sooner had we stepped from the carriage than we were greeted by a young overseer who was anxious to explain how he had caught the huge negro, Cambridge, purloining meat. Some words had been exchanged during which our man accused of theft apparently insulted the overseer. Hearing this account a tight-lipped Arnold departed in search of the black criminal, and returned some minutes later in a rage and claiming loudly for all to hear that he had been the victim of unprovoked aggression. Arnold decided to act immediately and enquired as to whether I wished to observe
his
court in session. I said I did, and together we retired to the level beneath the piazza where the accused Cambridge and the offended overseer soon presented themselves.

The two issues at stake were, firstly, whether or not Cambridge had stolen the meat and, secondly, whether he had insulted the overseer. That he had committed a further heinous crime of laying hands upon Arnold was beyond doubt, evidenced by my companion's enraged condition. To the second charge the grey-haired black offered no defence. To the first he claimed that he was not stealing, for come Sunday he intended to replace the meat with stock from his own provisions. Arnold asked why permission was not sought to remove the meat if, as he claimed, it would presently be replaced. Cambridge answered, in his polite English, that should permission be sought for every insignificant act then there would be precious little time for work on the plantation. Arnold replied that not everyone was as honest as Cambridge claimed to be, and that only if they were so would such a system be workable. Cambridge then adopted the manner and speech of one familiar with the conventions of the bar and claimed the status of
trustee,
indicating that it was a much lesser position than that of Head Driver, an office which I was astonished to hear him claim he had twice refused. At this point our junior overseer laughed out loud, remarking that the black's insubordinate nature made
him ill-suited to the office
of trustee,
but not wishing to be seen to be in opposition to his superior, Mr Brown, he essayed no opinion on Cambridge's capacity to perform the elite role of Head Driver. With time passing, and the argument in danger of becoming circular in form, Arnold decreed that he would suspend judgement. He was concerned that he should not be accused of acting in the heat of the moment, and imposing a wrong verdict in so delicately balanced a case. I have to confess that his decision bore strong witness to the efficacy of my influence, for I feared an instant ruling might ruin the pleasantness of the day we had just spent together. I therefore concurred enthusiastically with his decision, and a conclusion, although not altogether satisfactory, and certainly temporary, was achieved.

At this intermission everybody, the presence of Arnold and myself notwithstanding, retired to their respective quarters. I have still not accustomed myself to the alarming speed with which the tropical day gives way to night, ignoring the lingering deepening of the blue to which those of England are familiar. I stood by the window to my bed-chamber and watched the last embers of daylight the out in dusky red streaks along the horizon, and marvelled as the red ball of the sun buried herself in the heart of the ocean. After the great heat of the day the delightful occasion was to be enjoyed. The possession of an expansive view of the ocean adds greatly to the attractions of the scene, but this theatre seems never truly complete until I descry the image of the mist-bedimmed moon atop the watery world. Only then am I ready to drag my weary bones into my cot, and for many an hour surrender to the feverish caprices of an ill-ventilated dreamworld. And to dream of what? England, of course. And a life sacrificed to the prejudices which despise my sex. Of loneliness. Of romance and adventure. Of freedom.

Some ten days later, as promised, Arnold escorted me back into Baytown where I attended a dinner given at a prominent
merchant's house. I had been led to understand that the dull expense of formal dinner was being replaced by the latest vogue of the small social community, where ladies might debate freely with gentlemen, and thus conversation might replace cardplay as the main communal resource of a lady's evening. However, I was to be afforded the opportunity of witnessing the traditional West Indian dinner, where the table laboured under a burden of ostentatious and substantial dishes. Gentlemen predominated numerically. Many brought with them their servants, some in livery, some not so, some with shoes, some barefoot, but all truly exemplified the type of the unprepossessing negro. They buzzed and swarmed around us like flies, and the lack of any formal arrangement among them created a vast disorder – excepting, of course, the arrangement whereby they might attempt to steal from beneath our very gaze whatever might be carried off.

I believe our merchant host originated in Portugal, but his table gave no hint of his foreign tastes, laden as it was with familiar local provisions, which not only now sat easily upon my stomach but gave so much pleasure to the palate that I began to wonder if I should ever again adjust to the fare of England. Was I doomed to become an exotic for the rest of my days? This, it now seemed to me, would be no bad thing, for I discovered much at this dinner that warmed my heart towards one class of these
creole
people. I had heard those engaged in West Indian cultivation spoken of as choleric and unstable, inclined to be imperious, but lacking in polish, who having raised themselves from mediocrity to some form of affluence, now reclined in tropical ease framing excessively elevated notions of their birth. However, these plantation managers are hard-working, up before sunrise, first into the field, and often the last to leave at night. Since their labour is not purely for their own benefit, their application is all the more admirable. Men such as Father, who profit greatly by these managers' labour, would surely expire were they required to perform a fraction of the
physical and mental tasks that these fellows undertake daily. At this dinner were two or three planting men who seldom come to Baytown seeking pleasure, for they are usually too busy with their agricultural concerns. Baytown is occupied by, or, rather, abandoned to, those who hold situations under Government, or attorneys, medical men, merchants, and of course the military (including naval officers of such ships as chance to be on station).

Another myth was soon dispensed with, that of drink. Many a long cork of the rosy
Vin de Bordeaux
was carefully drawn and the wine poured into the waiting crystal, and bottles of champagne were unwired, uncorked, and their sparkling contents offered to all. But although the tongue never remained idle, fine wit was displayed. The news was eagerly discussed, and
bons mots
flew like arrows, but no hectic face glowed excessively, nor were the laughing eyes dampened with anything other than the dew of happy excitement. It appears that drinking to excess is seldom practised, although the lower orders, the book-keepers and white labourers, regularly fall victim to this vice. I have mixed in society where courtly manners prevail, and where much art is practised to bestow a polished grace, but seldom have more sterling qualities of the mind and native good breeding been displayed than amongst these planters, whose propriety was such that not for one moment did I suspect any of aping their betters.

After the dinner, the ladies were not encouraged to remain long at the table. We retired to the drawing room, where something like conversation took place. Only the most successful among the managers are able to afford a wife. Her duties are most arduous. Distant from markets and the few small civilized comforts that a West Indian town affords, she must survive upon the stock produced from the estate. With careful management this can be comfortably arranged. She must, however, discipline herself to listen to all the stories of the people on the estate, young and old, and the negro children
must be closely watched. It is her duty to reward the good and admonish the wicked. Those ladies with small children of their own have still more to do, yet in their personal attention towards their offspring they prove the most responsible and affectionate of parents, different in conduct from the fashionable mothers of England who quickly abandon their progeny to the care of negligent mercenary nurses, thereby depriving the leading youth of England of that natural maternal contact which brings forth the balanced mind. As to the practice of education, there is little to be done but to send the older children to Europe, for a newly arrived governess will soon marry. Either this or risk the children falling into a slothful state of ignorance. In later years the boys seldom return, and should the girls do so it is generally to enjoy the chivalry of local eligible bachelors, all intent upon marriage to any passing creature with a fair skin.

In a little time the gentlemen entered, and befogged the room with tobacco smoke. Soon after, a pair of grinning, facetious negroes busied themselves handing around coffee and cake. Sad to recount, those just beneath the status of plantation manager, the overseers, book-keepers and the like, no matter how large the plantations they labour on, generally have not the means to enable them to make any woman decently comfortable. Salaries as small as £200 per annum are not unusual, with of course provision made for what rum, sugar and salt-fish they require from the estate. These overseers and book-keepers are seldom invited to share a merchant's table, but Arnold's situation is a little happier, since following the departure of Mr Wilson, he has assumed the role of manager. His salary and status were now certainly sufficient to warrant his presence, although I felt strongly that he barely tolerated the excesses of our merchant host in order to assist me in my investigation of the white people and their ways. Indeed, as comfortable and welcome as I was made to feel, I could not help but wonder at the pretentious parade of our city company.