Cast Iron Skillet Big Flavors (2 page)

your
cast iron
pan

CAST IRON COOKWARE HAS BEEN AROUND FOR HUNDREDS OF
years. Centuries ago, cast iron kettles and skillets were used over open fires in Europe. They were some of the very few treasured items that settlers brought with them to the New World.
Cast iron pans are formed through the process of sand-casting. Molten iron is poured into a sand-clay mold of the desired shape. After it cools, the mold is removed and the pan’s surface is smoothed by a stone-washing process. Although pioneer cast iron companies Griswold Manufacturing and Wagner Manufacturing are no longer in business, you can occasionally discover their pans at second-hand stores. They are a great find. Well-seasoned and well-used, they are our favorites.
Today’s cast iron pans come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes to suit almost any culinary need. We recommend pans from Lodge Manufacturing that are made in the United States. Founded in 1896, Lodge is the largest domestic producer of high-quality iron cookware. Their pieces range from skillets, Dutch ovens, grill pans, and griddles to specialty pans for breads, casseroles, and muffins. Lodge products are readily available in cookware shops and hardware stores throughout the country. French-made Le Creuset’s enamel-coated cast iron cookware, which is more expensive than traditional cast iron, is our favorite for soups and casseroles. Staub cast iron, also made in France, includes unique pieces sold in many different shapes and sizes. Both Le Creuset and Staub are available at specialty cookware stores such as Sur La Table (see
Resources
, page 143).
Often, cooks who are unfamiliar with cast iron are pleasantly surprised to find that well-seasoned cast iron has a perfect nonstick surface. Teflon-coated and stainless steel pans tend to cause food to “sweat,” which stews and toughens meat instead of browning it, and prevents a crisp crust from forming. Food cooked in cast iron doesn’t sweat due to the pan’s porous surface. Cast iron pans heat quickly and evenly and maintain their heat. They provide an even exchange of heat with the food, thus allowing meats to brown and caramelize, staying tender. The high heat of the pan forms golden crusts on baked goods and acts just like a wood-fired oven for pizzas and breads.
Cast iron’s versatility is what appeals to us the most. We use our cast iron skillets for pan-searing, pan-roasting, stir-frying, and baking. We find that an iron skillet is an excellent alternative to a wok—especially for those who cook on an electric stove. For camping, cast iron pans are indispensable. A Dutch oven is perfect for cooking over an outdoor fire, and it can be used as either an oven or a slow cooker.

PURCHASING CAST IRON COOKWARE

Today most new pans come preseasoned, which means you can use them right out of the box. Even a preseasoned pan, however, will need to be reseasoned now and then to maintain its nonstick surface. Unseasoned new pans are gunmetal gray in color, but with proper care and much use they will develop the familiar black patina that is the hallmark of a well-seasoned skillet.

You have a lot of choices when shopping for a new cast iron pan. Keep in mind that you don’t need every shape and size. We own 8-, 10-, and 12-inch skillets—two with straight 2-inch sides for searing and roasting, and one with 4-inch sides for stewing and braising. We love our griddle pan for pancakes, bacon, and eggs cooked side by side. A grill pan is our indoor barbecue, perfect for grilling meats of all kinds.

Here are descriptions of our favorite skillets and pans. Note that most cast iron skillets do not come with lids. When we are in need of a lid, we use one from our cupboards that is the same size as the pan.

Skillets are generally straight sided and long handled, and range in size from 6½ inches in diameter and 1¼ inches deep to 15¼ inches in diameter and 2¼ inches deep. (Sizes are indicated on the bottom of the skillet.) Large skillets have loop handles on either side, which make them easier to manage.

Lodge also has a stir-fry skillet, which resembles a wok and is 12¾ inches in diameter and 3¼ inches deep. If you like wok cookery, you’ll find that this cast iron version works well on both electric and gas ranges.

Grill pans, both round and square, have raised ridges in the bottom of the pan, which make them ideal for cooking boneless, skinless chicken breasts, fish fillets, and steaks indoors. These pans are a wonderful alternative to an outdoor grill. Sizes range from 9 inches in diameter to about 11 inches in diameter; they are approximately 2 inches deep.

Dutch ovens have loop handles and always come with lids. They are approximately 4 to 5 inches deep and range in capacity from 5 quarts to 9 quarts. Note that Dutch ovens differ from “camp ovens” or “spiders.” Camp ovens are deep like Dutch ovens but have three legs for setting on an open fire. (Dutch ovens have flat bottoms.) We have become reacquainted with our Dutch oven, and we use it indoors as well as outdoors. Lodge makes a great preseasoned, 6-quart Dutch oven perfect for stews and soups.

Griddles are flat with smooth surfaces. Some have grill ridges on one side. Our favorite is rectangular and fits over two burners.

You will also find specialty cast iron pans used for specific recipes. The specialty pans we own are a popover pan, an ebelskiver pan, and a Swedish pancake pan. Season specialty cookware as you would any other cast iron pan, and always use a little butter or vegetable oil before adding batter.

SEASONING NEW CAST IRON AND RESEASONING OLD

The secret to successful cooking in cast iron is properly seasoning and caring for your pans. The point of seasoning is to bake the oil into the pan’s porous surface to create a smooth nonstick coating and to prevent rust. Most new cast iron pans come preseasoned and can be used right out of the box; those gunmetal gray pans with sticky residue are nearly obsolete. The instructions below will help you season and maintain any cast iron pan.

To reseason old or never-seasoned cast iron, follow these steps:

1.
Preheat the oven to 375°F.

2.
Wash your pan with warm soapy water (only use soap when reseasoning) and scrub with a stiff brush or steel wool. Rinse with warm water, removing any sticky coating. Dry completely with a kitchen towel.

3.
Rub the pan inside and out with a thin coat of vegetable shortening; this will melt into the pan’s porous surface when heated.

4.
Place the pan upside down on a baking sheet lined with foil, and bake for 1 hour. Let it cool completely, then store with a paper towel inside.

If your seasoned pan starts to stick, follow these steps for maintaining your cast iron:

1.
Heat your pan on the stove top over medium heat. Rub the entire inside of the pan with olive or vegetable oil, using a wad of paper towels to distribute the oil evenly. Wipe out any excess oil and repeat three or four more times. This heating process expands the iron’s porous surface and allows the oil to soak in.

2.
Turn off the heat and let the pan cool completely.

THE DO’S AND DON’TS FOR CLEANING AND CARING FOR CAST IRON

Don’t ever wash a skillet in a dishwasher! Sometimes, especially after cooking egg dishes, you will have to briefly soak the skillet before scrubbing.

Don’t use metal utensils to scrape the pan.

To clean and care for a skillet after each use, do the following:

1.
Hold the pan under hot water and scrub it clean with a nylon scrub pad. You may need to eliminate strong flavors that have permeated the pan’s porous surface (for example, after sautéing onions for a long time); in this case, scrub the pan with 1 tablespoon each coarse salt and olive oil, then wipe clean.

2.
After rinsing, dry the skillet on the stove top over medium heat. Turn off the heat after it has warmed through, and add 2 tablespoons olive or vegetable oil, wiping the oil over the entire inside of the pan with a wad of paper towels.

3.
Cool, then line the pan with a paper towel and store in a warm, dry place. Store lids separately.

Note:
If you find a rusted cast iron pan at an antique shop or garage sale, you
can
rescue it. Simply wash it in hot water with a few drops of dishwashing soap (it is okay to use a little soap if you are reseasoning) or a mild abrasive such as coarse salt and olive oil, then scour the pan with a stiff brush or steel wool. Follow the seasoning directions on the previous page before using.