China Bayles' Book of Days (65 page)

In colder climates, bay makes an attractive tub or container plant for the patio; in warmer regions, it can stay outdoors all year. It is used as a seasoning, garnish, and for pickling. The leaves have the strongest flavor when they are dried slowly, or kept in the refrigerator and used fresh.

BAY BLEND FOR MEAT & POULTRY

3 parts powdered bay leaf
2 parts rubbed sage
2 parts dried savory
1 part dried marjoram
1 part dried thyme
1 part dried basil
1 part dried rosemary
½ part garlic powder
½ part onion powder

Mix all ingredients. Store in lidded container. Rub into meat or poultry before roasting or broiling.

Laurel tree, laurel tree
Keep house and field lightning free.
—TRADITIONAL CHARM AGAINST LIGHTNING

Rosemary wreath to encircle our home,
Give us fragrance, protection and light
From the mickle march steppers
⁶
Who lurk and roam
Over hills in the dark of the night.
—TRADITIONAL

NOVEMBER 13

Don’t Toss that Peel!

I am not an especially frugal person, but I hate to buy dried orange or lemon peel when I can recall having recently discarded some perfectly good peel in the compost. So to ensure that I always have dried peel on hand for cooking, herbal teas, potpourri, and stove-simmer, I make a practice of drying it regularly—and candying it, too. Makes me feel virtuous, especially with the holidays coming up.

Drying orange, lemon, or ruby grapefruit peel is just about as easy as it sounds. Once the peel and the fruit have parted company, I lay the peels on a cutting board, skin side down, and scrape off the bitter white pith, using a grapefruit spoon with serrated edges. I pop the scraped peels into the oven, with just the pilot light on, and leave them until they are dry but still slightly pliable. I add these to the jar of dried peel I keep on the cupboard shelf.

Candying is almost as easy. When I’ve scraped the peels, I cut them in narrow strips and drop them into boiling water. I simmer for 10-15 minutes, then drain; if the peels seem bitter, I repeat the process. In another pan, I make a sugar syrup, adding a cup of sugar to a cup of boiling water and stirring until the sugar is dissolved. Then I drop in the peels and simmer until they’re translucent and the sugar has been absorbed. (I check frequently, to be sure they don’t scorch.) With a fork, I fish them out and drop them, a few at a time, into sugar, shaking to cover, then drop them onto wax paper to dry. If the humidity is high, I pop them into the oven (pilot light only). When dry, they go into a lidded jar.

Learn more ways to use those peels:

Zest: The Very Best Citrus Recipes,
by Coralie Dorman

Have a bottle full of brandy, with as large a mouth as any bottle you have, into which cut your lemon and orange peel when they are fresh and sweet. This brandy gives a delicious flavor to all sorts of pies, puddings, and cakes. Lemon is the pleasantest spice of the two; therefore they should be kept in separate bottles.

—MRS. CHILD, THE AMERICAN FRUGAL HOUSEWIFE,
DEDICATED TO THOSE WHO ARE NOT ASHAMED

OF ECONOMY, 1833

NOVEMBER 14

Today is National Clean Out Your Refrigerator Day. We must take this as an opportunity to prepare for that looming moment when we have to fit a 20-pound turkey, five vegetables, four sauces, three salads, and two pumpkin pies—all into that same impossibly small refrigerator.

Curried Leftovers

I know. I shouldn’t spoil a conversation about curry by introducing the subject of leftovers. But we need to start practicing so we can handle the flood of leftovers that will soon confront us. And to tell the truth, some leftovers just beg to be curried.

But first, curry. Curry is a spice mixture, the flavor of which depends on the choice and proportion of spices involved. Most commercial curry powders contain some 6-12 spices, and range in flavor from mild to fiery, simple to complex, sweet to slightly bitter. Fresh is always best, though, and it’s easy to make your own. Here is a recipe for
garam masala
, one of Bill’s favorite curry powders.

GARAM MASALA

2 tablespoons cumin seeds
2 tablespoons coriander seeds
2 tablespoons cardamom seeds
2 tablespoons black peppercorns
1 tablespoon caraway seed
1 tablespoon fennel seed
1 (3-inch) stick cinnamon, broken up
1 teaspoon whole cloves

Toast all ingredients except for the nutmeg in a heavy skillet (no oil) over medium-high heat. Stir and shake occasionally for about 8-10 minutes, until the spices turn somewhat darker and become fragrant. Cool completely. Divide into three batches. Grind to a powder in a coffee grinder or spice mill. Store in an airtight container in a cool, dry place.

Starting with small amounts and tasting as you go, add this curry powder to those leftover vegetables and chicken, along with some chopped onion, apple, celery, raisins, almonds, and coconut. Serve over hot rice, remembering that you’re in training for the Big One, which is coming up in just over a week.

Read more about coping with leftovers:

Leftovers: 200 Recipes, 50 Simple Master Preparations and 150 Delicious Variations for the Second Time Around
, by Kathy Gunst

To ward off nightmares during the long winter nights, drink a tea of aniseed and garlic before bedtime, or make a pillow of hops and valerian.

—TRADITIONAL REMEDIES

NOVEMBER 15

To love in the midst of sweets, little children could do that, but to love in the bitterness of Wormwood is a sure sign of our affectionate fidelity.

—ST. FRANCIS DESALES

Southernwood

Southernwood (
Artemisia abrotanum
) is one of those herbs that you either like or you don’t. Happily for me, I like it. Also happily, it likes my Texas garden, where it is still green and pretty when many other plants are frost-browned. Its feathery foliage (about 24 inches high) creates a soft edging around beds and borders, it’s a fast-growing stop-gap filler when something else dies back, and it serves as an ornamental groundcover under the birdbath. I use it in pungent moth-repellant mixes, hang it in the closet, and (in the hot summer) put a few fresh sprigs on the dashboard of the car, for a fresh, clean scent. All in all, a useful herb.

The name southernwood is a contraction for “southern wormwood”: getting rid of intestinal parasites was one of the important medicinal uses of this attractive artemisia. It was often planted in graveyards in token of love that endures through the bitterness of loss. Two of the plant’s other folk names, lad’s love and maiden’s ruin, probably came from its inclusion in courting bouquets. (An interesting pair: did a lad’s love always mean a maid’s ruin?) The French call it
garderobe
, from its use as a closet herb. It was thought to ward off airborne infections, too; in England, branches of southernwood and rue were placed in courtrooms to guard against contagious diseases that might be carried by prisoners in the dock. I’ve read that it was once popular as a culinary herb—must have been an acquired taste.

Southernwood tea.—Clip four ounces of the leaves fine and beat them in a mortar with six ounces of loaf sugar till the whole is like a paste. Three times a day take the bignesse of a nutmeg of this. It is pleasant and one thing in it is particular, it is a composer and always disposes persons to sleep.

—SIR JOHN HILL, THE BRITISH HERBALIST, 1772

Of these worts that we name Artemisia, it is said that Diana did find them and delivered their powers and leechdom to Chiron the Centaur, who first from these Worts set forth a leechdom, and he named these worts from the name of Diana, Artemis, that is Artemisias.

—THE HERBARIUM OF APULEIUS, 1481
(ORIGINALLY WRITTEN IN GREEK, AROUND 400 CE)

NOVEMBER 16

Do not fire the Cellar, There’s excellent Wine in’t, Captain, and though it be cold weather, I do not love it mull’d.

—JOHN FLETCHER, THE LOYAL SUBJECT, 1618

Mulling It Over

The Oxford English Dictionary tells us that the word
mull
comes from the Middle English noun “mol,” meaning dust or powder. Mulled wine is mentioned in Fletcher’s
The Loyal Subject
in 1618, but the first published recipe does not appear until 1769, in
The Experienced English Housekeeper,
by Mrs. Raffald, who began her career as housekeeper in a large country-house. This busy lady went on to operate a confectioner’s shop, catering business, and a cooking school for young ladies, as well as writing one of the most popular cookbooks of her day.

Mulling spices are wonderful to have in the pantry for those winter evenings when the clan gathers around the fire. This recipe comes from Fannie Couch, talk-show host on Pecan Springs radio station KPST.

FANNIE’S FAVORITE MULLING SPICE

2 cups dried orange peel
2 cups broken cinnamon sticks
1 cup whole allspice berries
1 cup whole cloves
4 broken star anise

Mix all together and store in a closed jar. To use: mix ¼ cup of spices per gallon of wine, cider, or apple juice. Simmer for 30 minutes before serving. Serve in mugs with cinnamon stick stirrers or a punch bowl garnished with orange slices. A spicy bonus: the delightful aroma that will fill your kitchen!

If you prefer hot stuff, read:

Some Like It Hot: 50 Drinks to Warm Your Spirits,
by Holly Burrows

Ginger beer quickly made. A gallon of boiling water is poured over three quarters of a pound of loaf sugar, one ounce of ginger, and the peel of one lemon; when milk-warm, the juice of the lemon and a spoonful of yeast are added. It should be made in the evening, and bottled next morning, in stone bottles, and the cork tied down with twine. Good brown sugar will answer, and the lemon may be omitted, if cheapness is required.

—SARAH JOSEPHA HALE, THE GOOD HOUSEKEEPER, 1841

NOVEMBER 17

Today is National Homemade Bread Day.

Maggie and I shared a light meal of cauliflower soup seasoned with mint marigold (a wonderful substitute for the tarragon that doesn’t do well in Texas), jicama and garbanzo salad, and Maggie’s famous flowerpot herb bread.

—HANGMAN’S ROOT: A CHINA BAYLES MYSTERY

There’s Nothing Nicer

... than hot herb bread, just out of the oven. To make your bread even more interesting, bake it in clay flower-pots, which produce that lovely crispy crust you never get from a metal baking pan. You can purchase culinary pots, or you can use regular four- to eight-inch flower-pots. Scrub well, or wash them in the dishwasher. Spray with cooking spray and bake at 350° for 30 minutes. Cool and repeat the washing and seasoning process. If your pots have a hole in the bottom, cover it with a wad of aluminum foil. And if you don’t have time to make Maggie’s start-from-scratch bread, begin with a prepared bread dough and add the herbs. Good both ways!