Complete Works of Wilkie Collins (2252 page)

Nor have the most ordinary incidents of the visit any lack of interest for us now, in so far as they help to complete the picture of himself: “Allan has been squiring me about, all the morning. He and Fletcher have gone to a meeting of the dinner-stewards, and I take the opportunity of writing to you. They dine with us to-day, and we are going to-night to the theatre. M’Ian is playing there. I mean to leave a card for him before evening. We are engaged for every day of our stay, already; but the people I have seen are so very hearty and warm in their manner that much of the horrors of lionisation gives way before it. I am glad to find that they propose giving me for a toast on Friday the Memory of Wilkie. I should have liked it better than anything, if I could have made my choice. Communicate all particulars to Mac. I would to God you were both here. Do dine together at the Gray’s Inn on Friday, and think of me. If I don’t drink my first glass of wine to you, may my pistols miss fire, and my mare slip her shoulder. All sorts of regard from Kate. She has gone with Miss Allan to see the house she was born in, etc. Write me soon, and long, etc.”

His next letter was written the morning after the dinner, on Saturday, the 26th June: “The great event is over; and, being gone, I am a man again. It was the most brilliant affair you can conceive; the completest success possible, from first to last. The room was crammed, and more than seventy applicants for tickets were of necessity refused yesterday. Wilson was ill, but plucked up like a lion, and spoke famously.
I send you a paper herewith, but the report is dismal in the extreme. They say there will be a better one — I don’t know where or when. Should there be, I will send it to you. I
think
(ahem!) that I spoke rather well. It was an excellent room, and both the subjects (Wilson and Scottish Literature, and the Memory of Wilkie) were good to go upon. There were nearly two hundred ladies present. The place is so contrived that the cross table is raised enormously: much above the heads of people sitting below: and the effect on first coming in (on me, I mean) was rather tremendous. I was quite self-possessed, however, and, notwithstanding the enthoosemoosy, which was very startling, as cool as a cucumber. I wish to God you had been there, as it is impossible for the ‘distinguished guest’ to describe the scene. It beat all natur.” . . .

Here was the close of his letter: “I have been expecting every day to hear from you, and not hearing mean to make this the briefest epistle possible. We start next Sunday (that’s to-morrow week). We are going out to Jeffrey’s to-day (he is very unwell), and return here to-morrow evening. If I don’t find a letter from you when I come back, expect no Lights and Shadows of Scottish Life from your indignant correspondent. Murray the manager made very excellent, tasteful, and gentlemanly mention of Macready, about whom Wilson had been asking me divers questions during dinner.” “A hundred thanks for your letter,” he writes four days later. “I read it this morning with the greatest pleasure and delight, and answer it with ditto, ditto. Where shall I begin — about my darlings? I am delighted with Charley’s precocity. He takes arter his father, he does. God bless them, you can’t imagine (
you!
how can you?) how much I long to see them. It makes me quite sorrowful to think of them. . . . Yesterday, sir, the lord provost, council, and magistrates voted me by acclamation the freedom of the city, in testimony (I quote the letter just received from ‘James Forrest, lord provost’) ‘of the sense entertained by them of your distinguished abilities as an author.’ I acknowledged this morning in appropriate terms the honour they had done me, and through me the pursuit to which I was devoted. It
is
handsome, is it not?”

The parchment scroll of the city-freedom, recording the grounds on which it was voted, hung framed in his study to the last, and was one of his valued possessions. Answering some question of mine, he told me further as to the speakers, and gave some amusing glimpses of the party-spirit which still at that time ran high in the capital of the north.

“The men who spoke at the dinner were all the most rising men here, and chiefly at the Bar. They were all, alternately, Whigs and Tories; with some few Radicals, such as Gordon, who gave the memory of Burns. He is Wilson’s son-in-law and the lord-advocate’s nephew — a very masterly speaker indeed, who ought to become a distinguished man. Neaves, who gave the other poets, a
little
too lawyer-like for my taste, is a great gun in the courts. Mr. Primrose is Lord Rosebery’s son. Adam Black, the publisher as you know. Dr. Alison, a very popular friend of the poor. Robertson you know. Allan you know. Colquhoun is an advocate. All these men were selected for the toasts as being crack speakers, known men, and opposed to each other very strongly in politics. For this reason, the professors and so forth who sat upon the platform about me made no speeches and had none assigned them. I felt it was very remarkable to see such a number of gray-headed men gathered about my brown flowing locks; and it struck most of those who were present very forcibly. The judges, solicitor-general, lord-advocate, and so forth, were all here to call, the day after our arrival. The judges never go to public dinners in Scotland. Lord Meadowbank alone broke through the custom, and none of his successors have imitated him. It will give you a good notion of
party
to hear that the solicitor-general and lord-advocate refused to go, though they had previously engaged,
unless
the croupier or the chairman were a Whig. Both (Wilson and Robertson) were Tories, simply because, Jeffrey excepted, no Whig could be found who was adapted to the office. The solicitor laid strict injunctions on Napier not to go if a Whig were not in office. No Whig was, and he stayed away. I think this is good? — bearing in mind that all the old Whigs of Edinburgh were cracking their throats in the room. They gave out that they were ill, and the lord-advocate did actually lie in bed all the afternoon; but this is the real truth, and one of the judges told it me with great glee. It seems they couldn’t quite trust Wilson or Robertson, as they thought; and feared some Tory demonstration. Nothing of the kind took place; and ever since, these men have been the loudest in their praises of the whole affair.”

The close of his letter tells us all his engagements, and completes his graceful picture of the hearty Scottish welcome given him. It has also some personal touches that may be thought worth preserving. “A threat reached me last night (they have been hammering at it in their papers, it seems, for some time) of a dinner at Glasgow. But I hope, having circulated false rumours of my movements, to get away before they send to me; and only to stop there on my way home, to change horses and send to the post-office. . . . You will like to know how we have been living. Here’s a list of engagements, past and present. Wednesday, we dined at home, and went incog. to the theatre at night, to Murray’s box; the pieces admirably done, and M’Ian in the
Two Drovers
quite wonderful and most affecting. Thursday, to Lord Murray’s; dinner and evening party. Friday,
the
dinner. Saturday, to Jeffrey’s, a beautiful place about three miles off” (Craigcrook, which at Lord Jeffrey’s invitation I afterwards visited with him), “stop there all night, dine on Sunday, and home at eleven. Monday, dine at Dr. Alison’s, four miles off. Tuesday, dinner and evening party at Allan’s. Wednesday, breakfast with Napier, dine with Blackwood’s seven miles off, evening party at the treasurer’s of the town-council, supper with all the artists (!!). Thursday, lunch at the solicitor-general’s, dine at Lord Gillies’s, evening party at Joseph Gordon’s, one of Brougham’s earliest supporters. Friday, dinner and evening party at Robertson’s. Saturday, dine again at Jeffrey’s; back to the theatre, at half-past nine to the moment, for public appearance;
places all let, etc. etc. etc. Sunday, off at seven o’clock in the morning to Stirling, and then to Callender, a stage further. Next day, to Loch Earn, and pull up there for three days, to rest and work. The moral of all this is, that there is no place like home; and that I thank God most heartily for having given me a quiet spirit, and a heart that won’t hold many people. I sigh for Devonshire Terrace and Broadstairs, for battledoor and shuttlecock; I want to dine in a blouse with you and Mac; and I feel Topping’s merits more acutely than I have ever done in my life. On Sunday evening, the 17th of July, I shall revisit my household gods, please Heaven. I wish the day were here. For God’s sake be in waiting. I wish you and Mac would dine in Devonshire Terrace that day with Fred. He has the key of the cellar.
Do.
We shall be at Inverary in the Highlands on Tuesday week, getting to it through the Pass of Glencoe, of which you may have heard! On Thursday following we shall be at Glasgow, where I shall hope to receive your last letter before we meet. At Inverary, too, I shall make sure of finding at least one, at the post-office. . . . Little Allan is trying hard for the post of queen’s limner for Scotland, vacant by poor Wilkie’s death. Every one is in his favor but —
 
— , who is jobbing for some one else. Appoint him, will you, and I’ll give up the premiership. — How I breakfasted to-day in the house where Scott lived seven-and-twenty years; how I have made solemn pledges to write about missing children in the
Edinburgh Review
, and will do my best to keep them; how I have declined to be brought in, free gratis for nothing and qualified to boot, for a Scotch county that’s going a-begging, lest I should be thought to have dined on Friday under false pretenses; these, with other marvels, shall be yours anon. . . . I must leave off sharp, to get dressed and off upon the seven miles’ dinner-trip. Kate’s affectionate regards. My hearty loves to Mac and Grim.” Grim was another great artist having the same beginning to his name, whose tragic studies had suggested an epithet quite inapplicable to any of his personal qualities.

The narrative of the trip to the Highlands must have a chapter to itself and its incidents of adventure and comedy. The latter chiefly were due to the guide who accompanied him, a quasi-Highlander himself, named a few pages back as Mr. Kindheart, whose real name was Mr. Angus Fletcher, and to whom it hardly needs that I should give other mention than will be supplied by such future notices of him as my friend’s letters may contain. He had a wayward kind of talent, which he could never concentrate on a settled pursuit; and though at the time we knew him first he had taken up the profession of a sculptor, he abandoned it soon afterwards. His mother, a woman distinguished by many remarkable qualities, lived now in the English lake-country; and it was no fault of hers that this home was no longer her son’s. But what mainly had closed it to him was undoubtedly not less the secret of such liking for him as Dickens had. Fletcher’s eccentricities and absurdities, often divided by the thinnest partition from the most foolish extravagance, but occasionally clever, and always the genuine though whimsical outgrowth of the life he led, had a curious sort of charm for Dickens. He enjoyed the oddity and humor; tolerated all the rest; and to none more freely than to Kindheart during the next few years, both in Italy and in England, opened his house and hospitality. The close of the poor fellow’s life, alas! was in only too sad agreement with all the previous course of it; but this will have mention hereafter. He is waiting now to introduce Dickens to the Highlands.

CHAPTER XVI.

ADVENTURES IN THE HIGHLANDS.

1841.

A Fright — Fletcher’s Eccentricities — The Trossachs — The Travelers’ Guide — A Comical Picture — Highland Accommodation — Grand Scenery — Changes in Route — A Waterfall — Entrance to Glencoe — The Pass of Glencoe — Loch Leven — A July Evening — Postal Service at Loch Earn Head — The Maid of the Inn — Impressions of Glencoe — An Adventure — Torrents swollen with Rain — Dangerous Traveling — Incidents and Accidents — Broken-down Bridge — A Fortunate Resolve — Post-boy in Danger — The Rescue — Narrow Escape — A Highland Inn and Inmates — English Comfort at Dalmally — Dinner at Glasgow proposed — Eagerness for Home.

From Loch Earn Head Dickens wrote on Monday, the 5th of July, having reached it, “wet through,” at four that afternoon: “Having had a great deal to do in a crowded house on Saturday night at the theatre, we left Edinburgh yesterday morning at half-past seven, and traveled, with Fletcher for our guide, to a place called Stewart’s Hotel, nine miles further than Callender. We had neglected to order rooms, and were obliged to make a sitting-room of our own bed-chamber; in which my genius for stowing furniture away was of the very greatest service. Fletcher slept in a kennel with three panes of glass in it, which formed part and parcel of a window; the other three panes whereof belonged to a man who slept on the other side of the partition. He told me this morning that he had had a nightmare all night, and had screamed horribly, he knew. The stranger, as you may suppose, hired a gig and went off at full gallop with the first glimpse of daylight.
Being very tired (for we had not had more than three hours’ sleep on the previous night) we lay till ten this morning, and at half-past eleven went through the Trossachs to Loch Katrine, where I walked from the hotel after tea last night. It is impossible to say what a glorious scene it was. It rained as it never does rain anywhere but here. We conveyed Kate up a rocky pass to go and see the island of the Lady of the Lake, but she gave in after the first five minutes, and we left her, very picturesque and uncomfortable, with Tom” (the servant they had brought with them from Devonshire Terrace) “holding an umbrella over her head, while we climbed on. When we came back, she had gone into the carriage. We were wet through to the skin, and came on in that state four-and-twenty miles. Fletcher is very good-natured, and of extraordinary use in these outlandish parts. His habit of going into kitchens and bars, disconcerting at Broadstairs, is here of great service. Not expecting us till six, they hadn’t lighted our fires when we arrived here; and if you had seen him (with whom the responsibility of the omission rested) running in and out of the sitting-room and the two bedrooms with a great pair of bellows, with which he distractedly blew each of the fires out in turn, you would have died of laughing. He had on his head a great Highland cap, on his back a white coat, and cut such a figure as even the inimitable can’t depicter. . . .