Dr. Pitcairn's Complete Guide to Natural Health for Dogs and Cats (70 page)

Spondylitis appears more often in large dogs like German shepherds. It involves a long-term inflammation of the vertebrae, which the body attempts to alleviate by immobilizing spinal movements with calcium deposits. Eventually, these deposits encroach on the nerves that branch out from the spinal cord, interfering with their functions. Symptoms are not obvious to the untrained eye. Be on the lookout for some rigidity of the back and some difficulty or pain on getting up. As it advances, a wasting away of the rear legs becomes evident, as well as difficulty using them on steps or slippery floors. Usually a diagnosis is made only after an x-ray is taken. Spondylitis is often associated with hip dysplasia, so also read about that topic.

P
REVENTION

My opinion is that both intervertebral disk disease and spondylitis are expressions of the same problem—a deterioration of the spine brought on after years of poor nutrition, inadequate exercise, and stress. They are better prevented than treated. Your best insurance is to follow the natural diet recommendations in chapters 3 and 4 and the general care advice in chapter 7. Also, avoid selecting a breed that is prone to intervertebral disk disease (longbacked dogs) and breeds that are prone to hip dysplasia (such as German shepherds).

T
REATMENT

Intervertebral disk problems, once they have developed, may be alleviated by this program.

Nutrition should be emphasized. Avoid commercial foods and treats, using only the natural diet and supplements advised in this book. Be sure to add 100 to 400 IU vitamin E (depending on your pet’s size) and ¼ to 1 teaspoon lecithin granules to the daily ration. In addition, give 500 to 1,000 milligrams of vitamin C twice a day to strengthen the connective tissue involved and to counteract stress.

For specific treatment use:

Homeopathic
—
Nux vomica
(poison nut) 30C: This is most effective for animals with recent pain in the back, muscle tightness or spasms along the lower back, and weakness or paralysis of the rear legs. Use Homeopathic Schedule 2 (
view
). This remedy is appropriate for the more acute phase of the problem, but other medicines are needed for the underlying arthritis. This necessitates what is called constitutional treatment in homeopathy and is based on understanding the pattern of weakness over the lifetime of your animal. Work with a homeopathic veterinarian for this.

A paralyzed animal will benefit from massage of the back and legs and passive movement of the limbs to keep the muscles from shrinking away. If there is slight voluntary movement of the legs, exercise the animal by helping it to “swim” in a bathtub or pool. Support most of its weight with a towel or harness. Acupuncture and chiropractic have also been helpful for intervertebral disk problems.

Spondylitis, on the other hand, can be more difficult to treat once it has developed. The chance of improvement is much less for a dog already paralyzed than for one that is only weakened. A short fast (see chapter 15) may be appropriate in an early case, followed by the basic natural diet given in this book. The further instructions given under “Arthritis” will be very helpful.

Besides exercise and massage, use this remedy:

Homeopathic
—
Belladonna
(deadly nightshade) 30C: Use Homeopathic Schedule 2 and note how much improvement follows. If there is a clear benefit from its use, wait one week and give one dose of
Calcarea carbonica
30C remedy. Use this remedy only once, and do not use it unless Belladonna has helped. If it has not helped, give one dose of
Silicea
30C instead, and allow it to work undisturbed at least a month before anything else is given.

For other treatment choices or to continue beyond this point, consult a homeopathic veterinarian for constitutional treatment. Acupuncture is also notably helpful for this condition.

POISONING

See “Handling Emergencies and Giving First Aid” (
view
).

PREGNANCY, BIRTH, AND CARE OF NEWBORNS

Also see “Reproductive Organ Problems.”

The key to a successful and easy pregnancy
and delivery is good nutrition. During gestation (63 to 65 days for cats, 58 to 63 days for dogs), tremendous demands are made on the mother’s tissues to supply all the nutrients needed to build several new bodies. The general rule is that kittens or puppies come first. That is, they get whatever is available nutritionally, and the mother gets what’s left. If she doesn’t consume enough food to supply complete nutrition, her body provides whatever is lacking.

A female that is not adequately fed, or that is bred again and again, accumulates a nutritional deficiency that becomes greater with each pregnancy. Eventually, the mother will become diseased or the young will be weak and susceptible to disease—perhaps during their entire lives. The special recipes in chapter 5 for pregnant and nursing females and for young animals are designed to meet their special needs and prevent this nutritional depletion. Let’s look at the two most common problems—eclampsia and dystocia (difficult delivery).

Eclampsia

Eclampsia is a severe disturbance that appears most often at the end of a pregnancy, right after birth, or during nursing. That’s because it stems from calcium depletion. As new skeletons are formed or milk is produced, the calcium demand from the mother’s body is great. Symptoms include loss of appetite, a high fever (sometimes dangerously so), rapid panting, and convulsions. During convulsions the muscles become rigid, and the animal falls over with its head back. More typically, you may see a series of rapid contractions and relaxations of the muscles that looks like uncontrollable shaking.

Strenuous treatment is necessary, including intravenous injections of calcium by your veterinarian and ice baths (to bring down the temperature). Such treatment is usually successful, but the condition can recur if the young continue to nurse.

It is much better to prevent this problem in the first place with proper and bountiful nutrition, rather than to try to patch up the animal once it has occurred. In the event that your female already suffers from eclampsia, however, put her on the diet in chapter 5 that is appropriate for her state of pregnancy or lactation. Be sure to include all the ingredients, especially bone meal.

The treatment most likely to help during the crisis is:

Homeopathic
—
Belladonna
(deadly nightshade) 30C: Give one pellet every 15 minutes until the symptoms are alleviated. Then use Schedule 1,
view
), until all is well. This treatment can be used whenever symptoms reappear.

Dystocia (Difficult Delivery)

Cats and dogs with normal anatomy rarely have problems giving birth, particularly if they are adequately fed during pregnancy. Lack of certain essential nutrients like calcium, however, may weaken the uterine muscles and cause weak or short contractions,
a somewhat uncommon problem that has been increasing in incidence. In addition, certain fetal deformities can cause obstruction of the birth canal during labor.

The most severe birthing problems occur in dogs with an abnormal anatomy, usually from breeding trends in which the pelvis becomes too small for the size of the puppies. Other than the use of caesarean sections, little can be done about this problem except the obvious: Avoid breeding such animals and don’t select them as pets (which creates a market for them).

Let’s first review how delivery usually goes when all is normal. Two or three days before delivery, the mother may lose her appetite and show nesting behavior (carrying toys or other things to a particular area, tearing up paper to make a nest). There will be swelling of the vulva and a slight discharge. Twenty-four to 48 hours before birth, there will be a sudden drop in body temperature to below normal (usually below 101°F.; 38.3°C.), but this varies according to the individual and is best determined by checking the temperature twice a day for several days before.

The next thing is for labor to begin. Stage One is characterized by restlessness, panting, and shivering (perhaps also vomiting food once). This lasts 6 to 12 hours (but can be longer with the first birth). Stage Two is visible contractions, with delivery of the puppy. Some mothers will start this stage by wanting to go outside to urinate. They will lie on the side as contractions become stronger, straining and licking the genitals. Some dogs will groan or even scream. Between contractions there is rapid panting. This stage lasts from 15 minutes to an hour.

Stage Three is the passing of the afterbirth( s), usually promptly eaten. It is important that all the afterbirths be passed, so each (one to a puppy) must be accounted for.

Problems can begin to occur at Stage Two, when contractions are not producing results. You will know that this is happening because straining goes on too long. If the mother labors more than four or five hours with the first puppy or three hours with subsequent puppies, then it has indeed been too long. In this case, use:

Homeopathic
—
Pulsatilla
(windflower) 30C: Give one pellet and repeat in 30 minutes. As soon as labor proceeds, stop using the remedy, even if you’ve only given one or two doses. Remember that the mother will often naturally rest between deliveries, even napping for an hour or two. So don’t rush things too much. If there is no delivery after two doses (one hour), then the remedy will not help. In which case, switch to:

Homeopathic
—
Caulophyllum
(blue cohosh) 30C: Use same schedule as given above. One of these remedies is usually effective.

If a puppy or kitten is part way out and seems stuck (not immediately slipping out), pulling on it very gently may help. Hold the body, not the legs or head; note that any pressure more vigorous than an extremely gentle touch can cause damage to either the
mother or the unborn. Get professional help if the baby has been trapped in the birth canal for more than a half hour (it will be dead by then). A caesarean section will probably be needed. This is a good time for your dog to be spayed, which will prevent this from happening again. Check with your veterinarian about this option.

If all goes well at home and the delivery is complete, use:

Homeopathic
—
Arnica montana
(mountain daisy) 30C: Use Homeopathic Schedule 2 (
view
). This is most helpful to strengthen the mother and prevent infection.

If an afterbirth remains inside, serious problems can result. If one is retained and there is fever or infection, use the following treatment along with what your veterinarian prescribes.

Homeopathic
—
Secale cornutum
(ergot) 30C: Use Homeopathic Schedule 2 (
view
). This remedy will often prevent or successfully treat infection following a retained afterbirth and result in the afterbirth being discharged.

C
ARE
OF
THE
N
EWBORN

Fortunately for you, the mother will generally do everything needed to care for the newborn, and it’s best not to interfere unless there’s a problem. Right after birth she will clean the little ones, and, as long as necessary, she will also lick up all the urine and feces voided by her growing young. This is nature’s way of keeping a clean nest. It’s convenient for you, but if the infants should develop diarrhea, you may miss the evidence.

Diarrhea is one of the more common problems at this stage of life, and it’s usually caused by consuming too much milk (sometimes a problem with hand-raised puppies or kittens), infection in the mother’s uterus or mammary glands (check if her temperature is above 102°F.; 38.9°C.), or giving antibiotics to the mother (they can get into the milk).

A puppy or kitten with diarrhea will get cold and dehydrated (the skin will be wrinkled and look too big for the body). It may crawl away from the nest and usually cries, even when returned to the mother.

If the problem is with the mother’s milk, you’ll need to feed the babies by hand with a pet nurser bottle sold at pet stores. Use the nursing formulas in chapter 5 or a commercial kitten or puppy formula. Dilute the formula half and half with pure water until the diarrhea is under control. The problem should correct itself after a few feedings. If not, try one of these two methods.

1. Use a mixture consisting of half formula (regular strength) and half warm chamomile tea (one teaspoon herb to a cup of boiling water). Feed on a regular schedule until the problem is controlled, usually by two or three feedings.
   
2. Use the half formula/half water mixture, but add to it a crushed pellet of the homeopathic preparation Podophyllum (May apple) 6C. Mix well. One such therapeutic feeding should be enough, but repeat this formula every four hours if necessary.
   

Examine the mother’s breasts to see if there are hard lumps, hot areas, or painful places (on pressure). If so, there may be an infection (mastitis) that will need treatment before the milk is safe for the puppies (see “Reproductive Organ Problems”).

After the diarrhea is under control and if there is no problem with the mother, you can return the puppy or kitten to the nest, but be watchful in case the diarrhea returns.

If, as sometimes happens, the mother does not care for the young—letting them cry and avoiding contact and not nursing—you have a potentially serious problem, as the young ones cannot go long without eating. It is possible that there is something physically wrong with the mother, like an infection or retained puppy or kitten, so you will need to have your veterinarian check out this possibility. If the problem is emotional, however, then here is a treatment that is quite helpful.