Dress Like a Man (4 page)

For the most part, style is an individual statement. The goal is to feel confident making your own, not to copy other men's.

That said, there are a few looks that are timeless and perfect. You shouldn't wear them every day, but you should be able to pull them off when it's called for.

We've kept this list short. There are many other items of clothing that are also excellent and awesome to own. If you bought only these items and stopped there, your wardrobe would be awfully boring (also, you wouldn't have any underwear).

But you will never regret owning at least one of each of these items. So own them.

1. A Really Good Pair of Jeans

Doesn't matter if you wear jeans every day or if you only own the one pair -- own a really
good
pair.

What makes a really good pair of jeans?

They should be sturdy, comfortable, and versatile. You want jeans that aren't a statement all on their own. The goal is to have pants that can be dressed up, dressed down; whatever -- they should look equally good paired with a plain white T-shirt and with a sharp-cut suit jacket. Or with both at the same time.

An ideal pair of jeans should look something like this:

• dark, neutral color -- deep indigo is classic and irreproachable
  
• close (but not overly tight) fit, especially in the seat and crotch
  
• no exaggerated taper or flare below the knee
  
• sits a touch lower than slacks -- just above the top of the hips is good
  
• no rips, fades, stains, patches, or oversized labels
  
• the basic four- or five-pocket arrangement
  
• no extreme contrast stitching or zipper/button coloring
  

If that sounds a little basic and neutral to you, you've got the right idea.

The goal here is relaxed elegance. Jeans should look natural and unforced. Don't overdo 'em.

Own as many pairs of crazier pants as you want. Have some pairs of beat-up, light blue work jeans for when you're actually working. All those things are fine.

But own the one nice pair as well. Spend a little more up front to get a pair you really like. You won't regret having it.

2. A Plain White Dress Shirt

Like the good pair of jeans, this isn't the most exciting garment in the world. It's almost generic.

But it's also worth having.

A plain white dress shirt can be worn with anything. It's a must-have if you're wearing a suit, at least for your most formal business settings. A lightly-patterned dress shirt is fine for most workplaces, but when you need to look like serious business, pure white is your gold standard.

On the opposite end of the spectrum, the same shirt looks just fine with a beat-up pair of jeans (it's a little cowboy, but there's nothing wrong with that). And it'll work fine with cords, chinos, blazers, sports jackets -- whatever. You can even untuck it and roll the sleeves and make it work with shorts in the summer.

Stick to the basics here. Your default white shirt should have a point or a spread collar (no button-downs), simple barrel cuffs, and -- of course -- a really good fit.

Keep it clean, bleach as often as needed to get rid of stains, and press it (or have it pressed) so that the front is free of wrinkles and the collar lies flat. That way you'll always have something good-looking to wear on your upper body, no matter where you're going or what you're doing.

3. A Pair of Dark Leather Shoes

Never underestimate the improvement a good pair of shoes makes on an outfit.

If you can't bring yourself to be the kind of man that owns many pairs of shoes, make sure to have at least one pair of dark leather ones in your collection.

The ideal style can vary a little depending on your needs. For strict business dress, plain black oxfords are the only option. Men who don't have much call for business dress can get away with a more relaxed black shoe, or even a dark brown one.

The point is to own a nice pair. They may feel dressy at first, especially for men who are used to gym shoes or synthetic-material work boots, but rest assured that leather shoes dress down just fine when you pair them with jeans and a relaxed belt.

As with the other must-have items, it's worth your while to invest up front here. Get a really good pair that fits like a glove. With occasional cleaning and polishing, it'll last you for years.

4. A Navy Blazer

A stylish man will probably own half a dozen jackets or more. But
every
man should own a navy blazer.

Blazers are a versatile middle ground. They're a little dressier than casual sports jackets, but not as dressy as a suit.

That makes them a great default any time you want to look "nice" but aren't sure what statement to make beyond that. You can go to church in a blazer, you can go on a date in one; you can even appear on TV in one.

Keep your first blazer simple and elegant. The navy blue fabric color is a must; the traditional metallic buttons are optional, and can be replaced with dark-colored leather, horn, or mother-of-pearl if you prefer a lower contrast look.

The fit should be close but not too tapered -- blazers are supposed to be a touch boxier than unstructured sports jackets. Throw it on to dress up any look, and wear it with confidence to anything short of a full business dress setting.

5. Gray Wool Trousers

Of all the items on this list, gray wool trousers are probably owned by the smallest number of men.

That's unfortunate, since they're the ideal jeans alternative for most settings.

When you want to look dressier than denim can manage, you have lots of options, but few are as simple, practical, and versatile as gray wool.

The gray can vary from light to medium to charcoal dark, and the wool can be flannel, worsted, or even a textured weave like herringbone. The requirements here aren't too specific, beyond "wool" and "gray" -- and, of course, a good fit.

Get a pair if you don't already own one. You may feel a little overdressed in them the first few times out, but you'll quickly realize that they can be worn even in very casual settings for a look that's not out of place -- but that is a little nicer than all the jeans-wearing men around you.

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HAPTER 7:
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UDGET

One of the chief goals of this style guide was to make the information in it relevant and accessible.

A lot of fashion advice, we found, isn't, simply because it focuses so much on the higher end of things.

It's great to talk about bespoke tailoring and designer fashions with people who can afford to buy those on a regular basis, but the reality is that most guys can't. Some acknowledgement needs to be made that there are men out there who want to look sharp, but who are dressing on a budget.

So if you like the idea of looking nicer, but aren't going to be ordering custom-tailored suits any time soon, don't despair. Here are some of the best ways you can shop for menswear without breaking the bank:

1. Know Your Local Thrift Store (and Love It)

Get over any prejudices you might have and embrace the concept of thrift-store shopping.

Some of your best deals are going to come from thrift stores, consignment shops, and similar second-hand markets. The selection is a craps shoot, but the prices are good enough to justify the extra time that costs you.

Get in the habit of visiting your local thrift store (or stores) whenever you happen to pass by. If you never happen to, make a point of doing it every month or two anyway.

The results will be varied. Depending on your body type and size, you may have a wide selection that gets picked over quickly, a limited selection that no one's competing for, or something somewhere in between.

But every once in a while, no matter your size, you can expect to snag a really good bargain, and it's those moments that make thrift store shopping worthwhile. Expect to have to spend a little more on adjustments for most things you buy -- but when you've just found a $500+ suit going for twenty bucks, the extra ten or twenty for adjustments still totals up to a pretty good deal.

2. E-thrift -- But Cautiously

The internet is, in some ways, a thrift store the size of the world. If you're good at Googling and willing to put some time into it, you can find almost anything for cheap.

Unfortunately, there's no way to try clothes on via the internet. You're stuck relying on product descriptions, which can be incomplete or even falsified. And there's no way of knowing for sure until the purchase arrives on your doorstep.

That means being a little cautious when you buy second-hand clothes online. Try to stick to websites that you trust, or sellers with good reviews and reputations. See what other people are saying about a source before using it for the first time.

If sites offer extra protections or return services for members, consider registering for the membership. Ebay and Amazon are both examples of sites that give more generous return policies to members than to unregistered users.

Expect to have to return or exchange about half of what you buy online, especially when you're first starting to explore your options. Plan accordingly, and stick to websites that aren't "all sales final" unless you're
very
sure of your purchase.

3. Track Sales and Coupons

Coupon-clipping is generally associated with grocery stores, but it's an option for clothing shoppers as well.

These days, you can use websites to track sales and special offers from brands you like. Sites like
Dappered.com
exist to highlight the best deals available every day.

You should also subscribe to the mailing lists of the brands or stores you like best. This will inevitably result in some offers you aren't interested in, but it'll also expose you to some deals you
do
want.

Deleting an extra e-mail or two each day isn't actually that big of a hassle. And it's well worth the effort when you're also occasionally getting big discounts on items you were going to purchase anyway -- or that you wanted to purchase, but couldn't because of the price.

4. Ask for Clothing Gifts

Take advantage of gift-giving holidays like Christmas to get the word out that you're into fine menswear these days.

Relatives and friends are often grateful for a few gift ideas that you'll actually appreciate, so that they're not guessing completely blind.

You're not likely to have many friends who are giving away custom-tailored suits (though if you do you should definitely stay friends with them!), but you can let it be known that affordable accent pieces like pocket squares, colored socks, and vintage or artistic belt buckles are right up your alley.

It's a double bonus: you get some new accent pieces for free, and you get some additions that you wouldn't necessarily have thought to buy yourself. Some of them will not quite be to your taste -- that's always a risk with gifts -- but most of the time you'll get things that are at least functional. And once in a while someone surprises you with something downright awesome.

5. Borrow from Relatives

If there are other men in your family about your size, check with them about borrowing clothes when you really need them, or about getting some hand-me-downs.

This is usually a father-son sort of thing, but brothers, cousins, and nephews/uncles can help each other out too, so long as they're about the same size.

Go with whatever arrangement comes naturally to your family. Borrow a suit for an interview if you don't have one of your own, maybe, or take a vintage suit jacket that's seen better days out of mothballs and wear it with jeans or corduroys as a funky sports jacket.

Whatever the other men in your family aren't using -- snag it and get it back into the rotation. It's doing everybody a favor.

6. Spend More, Less Frequently

Try to get into the mindset of investing in two or three serious clothing purchases each year, and not much beyond that.

(If you've got the budget for more frequent purchases, of course, go for it. But men who need to save for a few months between clothing investments should focus on two or three a year.)

Make these significant, high-quality purchases. Focus on the upgrades that will do your wardrobe the most good, and spend to get the best quality you can afford.

Buying one or two really good items that are built to last will do you more good in the long term than shopping every week or two for cheap junk. Your wardrobe will be a little less varied, but you'll get more value for your dollar.