Fabulicious!: On the Grill (24 page)

Peaches are obviously a very fragile fruit, but they also stop producing sugar
once they're picked, so if they're picked too early (and the farther they have to travel from tree to store, the earlier they will get picked), they are never going to be as sweet as they could be. The closer you live to where the fruit is actually grown, the better it's going to be. That's why I get fresh produce from farmers' markets and roadside farm stands every chance I get.

Unless you live on an orchard, though, you're going to have to get fruit from the store sometimes. Here's how to find the best summer fruit.

Apples:
This is one fruit where the brightest and shiniest color doesn't really mean it tastes the best. (In fact, that “shine” is usually sprayed on commercially grown apples.) The most important thing is to get a firm, unblemished apple. And this is the one fruit I would always buy organic if you can because of the amount of pesticides you'll save your body from. Organic apples aren't as shiny on the outside, but they're just as delicious and juicy on the inside. Apples will last the longest when stored in the fridge.

Blueberries:
Look for berries that are blue—not red or purple—and have a slightly waxy shine to them (that's natural). You want blueberries that are plump, firm, and all the same size. Like other berries, make sure they are dry; pass on packages with leaks or stains. Store in the fridge, and don't wash until just before eating them.

Oranges:
Water is heavier than pulp so if you want a juicy orange, pick one that's heavy for its size. Also look for bright-colored skin with no blemishes.

Peaches:
First, a peach should smell like a peach. If you don't get a rich, ripe, fruity smell off of it, it's never going to taste very good. Look for a deep cleft and firm skin that gives just a little when you press on it. Store peaches at room temperature, with plenty of air around each one, and use them within a few days.

Raspberries and Blackberries:
Avoid dull-colored berries: raspberries should be medium to bright red; blackberries should be shiny and black. Look for dry berries; any moisture or juice is a sign of decay or decay to come. Store in the fridge uncovered, and don't wash until just before you use them.

Strawberries:
When it comes to taste, bright red and shiny matters more than size. Look for ones with even color, a healthy green cap that's still attached, and a nice fresh aroma. Don't get any with brown or white spots as decay can spread to nearby strawberries in a matter of hours. If you can, buy strawberries the same day you plan to use them. Store them unwashed and uncut in the crisper drawer of your fridge. Don't wash until right before you're ready to serve them.

Watermelon:
You want a melon with brightly colored green skin, although it should have a yellow spot on the bottom where it sat on the ground when it was naturally ripening in the sun. Look for a melon that's symmetrical, doesn't have any dings or cuts, feels heavy, and sounds hollow when you thump it.

 

Makes 10 to 12 servings

A traditional cassata cake is a sponge cake soaked in fruit liqueur, stuffed with ricotta cheese, and topped with chocolate and candied fruit. Here's a quick summer version that uses store-bought angel food cake as a little (calorie-saving) treat, rum instead of liqueur (or you can use orange juice to make it nonalcoholic), and doesn't require any baking!

1 (15-ounce) container ricotta cheese

¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons confectioners' sugar

Grated zest of 1 orange,
optional

3 tablespoons rum or fresh orange juice

½ cup miniature semisweet chocolate chips

1 store-bought angel food cake, about 7 inches in diameter

1½ cups heavy cream

½ teaspoon vanilla extract

1 block semisweet chocolate, at least 4 ounces

8 strawberries, cut in half vertically

1.
Line a wire sieve with paper towels and place over a medium bowl. Spoon the ricotta into the sieve and let stand for 10 minutes to drain. Blot the top of the ricotta with additional paper towels.

2.
Transfer the drained ricotta to another medium bowl, being careful to remove the paper towels. Using an electric mixer on high speed, beat the ricotta in a medium bowl until smooth. Beat in ¼ cup of the confectioners' sugar and the orange juice, followed by the chocolate chips.

3.
Using a serrated knife, cut the cake crosswise into thirds. Place the bottom cake layer on a serving platter, and brush with 1 tablespoon of the rum. Spread with half of the ricotta mixture. Top with the middle layer, brush with another tablespoon of rum, and spread with the remaining ricotta mixture. Add the top cake layer and brush with the remaining rum.

4.
Whip the cream, remaining 2 tablespoons confectioners' sugar, and vanilla together in a medium bowl with an electric mixer on high speed until very stiff peaks form. Spread the whipped cream mixture over the top and sides of the cake. Grate about half of the chocolate over the top of the cake. Refrigerate the cake, uncovered, for at least 1 hour or up to 12 hours before serving.

5.
Just before serving, insert the strawberries, cut-sides up, into the cake, spacing them around the bottom of the cake. Serve chilled.

 

Makes 6 servings

“Vintage” Italians, as I like to call my parents' generation, follow most meals like this: they slice fresh peaches, put them in a glass, pour red wine over the top, and then spend the rest of the evening spearing out the fruit with the tip of a knife. They eat, drink, eat, drink, repeat. I turned their tradition into an Italian “sangria” by mixing peaches with sugar in a pitcher (the sugar helps the peaches release some juice) and then adding the wine. While my parents like it room temperature, I prefer it chilled.

2 ripe peaches, pitted and cut into ½ inch slices

2 tablespoons sugar

1 (750-ml) bottle fruity red wine, such as merlot

1.
Combine the peaches and sugar in a glass pitcher. Let stand at room temperature about 1 hour, or until the peaches give off some juices.

2.
Pour in the red wine and stir well. Cover and refrigerate until chilled, at least 2 hours and up to 8 hours.

3.
Pour into wine glasses, making sure that each glass gets some peaches. Serve chilled.

 

Makes about 1 quart

We always have homemade applesauce in our fridge. We eat it plain for breakfast and put it on roast chicken and turkey for dinner—but our favorite way to enjoy it is to spoon it over ice cream for dessert. The applesauce will change according to the kind of apples you use— McIntosh apples make a soft sauce, Golden Delicious apples make chunky sauce. Just taste the sauce before you serve it. It may be perfect for your palate, or you may want to sweeten it with a little sugar, or add some tartness with a splash of lemon juice.

3 pounds apples, such as Macoun, McIntosh, Golden Delicious, or Empire, peeled, cored, and cut into 1-inch chunks

Sugar,
optional

Fresh lemon juice,
optional

1.
Put the apples in a large saucepan and add enough water to barely cover them. Bring to a boil over high heat.

2.
Reduce the heat to medium and cook at a brisk simmer, stirring often, until the apples have broken down into a sauce, about 20 minutes. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, stirring often, until the applesauce is the desired thickness, 10 to 20 minutes longer, making sure that it doesn't scorch on the bottom. Taste the applesauce and adjust the flavor, if needed, with sugar or lemon juice. Serve warm or cool, cover, and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks.

 

Makes 6 servings

Grilling peaches brings their juices to the surface, where they take on a caramel flavor. Add a homemade caramel sauce, and it's summer-flavored heaven. Feel free to drizzle a little Amaretto or peach schnapps over the ice cream, too. But without the booze, this is a great, kid-friendly dessert. Just hold off until you get good, ripe, flavorful peaches, as the sauce and grilling won't really “fix” bad ones.

Caramel Sauce:

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

¾ cup packed light brown sugar

¾ cup heavy cream

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Pinch of salt

Grilled Peaches:

6 ripe peaches, pitted

Vegetable oil, for brushing

1 quart peach, toasted almond, or vanilla ice cream, or a combination

Whipped cream, for serving (optional)

½ cup sliced natural almonds, toasted (see Teresa's Tip), for serving

1.
To make the caramel sauce:
Melt the butter in a medium, tall saucepan over medium heat. Add the brown sugar and stir until melted and bubbling. Cook, stirring often, for 2 minutes. Gradually stir in the cream—it will bubble up, so be very careful that it doesn't overflow the saucepan. Let cook, stirring often, until slightly thickened and reduced to about 1 cup, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat. Stir in the vanilla and salt. Let cool completely. (The sauce can be stored at room temperature for up to 8 hours. It will thicken more as it stands.)

2.
Preheat the grill for direct cooking over medium heat (400°F).

3.
To grill the peaches:
Lightly brush the peaches all over with the oil. Place on the cooking grate, cut-sides down, and cover with the grill lid. Cook until the undersides are seared with grill marks, about 3 minutes. Flip the peaches over and continue cooking, with the lid closed, until they are heated through and the juices are bubbling, about 3 minutes more. Remove from the grill. Let the peaches cool for a few minutes until they are warm, not piping, hot.