Field Guide to Candy: How to Identify and Make Virtually Every Candy Imaginable (22 page)

General Description:

Asia’s version of Jell-O is made with agar, an ingredient made from seaweed with properties similar to gelatin
. Like Western-style jelly candies, agar jellies come in a variety of colors, flavors, and forms. The texture of agar jellies is somewhat firmer and chewier than gelatin-based jellies. Commercially made agar-based candies are commonly sold in stores across Asia. One of the most popular styles is rainbow-colored cubes, made of thin layers of variously colored jelly. Opaque varieties are also popular, made with coconut milk or almond milk.

History:

The word
agar agar
means “jelly” in Malay; either
agar
or
agar agar
can be used to refer to the substance. Agar has been used across Asia for centuries as a thickener in desserts as well as sauces and soups. It was brought to North America in the 19th century and has become popular as a gelatin substitute, especially since it contains no animal products. One form of agar jelly popular in Asia is an almond-flavored type called
almond tofu
, due to the similarities in appearance and texture.

Serving Suggestions:

Agar jellies can be made like gelatin-based
fruit jellies
. It is usually served with mixed fruit as a simple, light dessert.

Candy-Making Notes:

Agar can be substituted for gelatin in almost all recipes, making it an invaluable ingredient for people with vegetarian or kosher dietary requirements. It can be found in Asian groceries in dried strips or in powdered form similar to powdered gelatin. Agar-based jellies have a denser texture than gelatin-based jellies.

Recipe:

1.
Set aside a 6-by-6-inch baking pan or individual dessert bowls.

2.
Combine almond milk, milk, sugar, and agar in a saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the sugar dissolves.

3.
Bring to a boil and cook for about 5 minutes.

4.
Remove from heat and stir in almond extract and food coloring, if desired.

5.
Pour mixture into baking pan or individual dessert bowls. Refrigerate until it has fully set before serving.

6.
Cut jelly into 1-inch cubes or other shapes.

Yield:

About 36 cubes

Storage:

Refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

General Description:

Like a cross between Jell-O and
pâtes de fruits
, apple jellies are chunky, slightly chewy squares bursting with fruit flavor.
Made with applesauce and gelatin and often studded with nuts, these jellies taste naturally sweet. Apple jellies are popular in the American Northwest, particularly in Washington, famous for its apple production. Commercial apple jellies called Aplets & Cotlets are produced in Washington. These rectangular blocks of jelly candy come in apple and apricot flavors studded with walnuts and liberally dusted with confectioners’ sugar.

History:

Apples are one of the key crops of Washington; they were declared the state fruit in 1989. It is not surprising that Aplets & Cotlets were invented in apple country. They were created by two
Armenians, Armen Tertsagian and Mark Balaban, who immigrated to Washington in the early 1900s. The two men grew apples at their farm, Liberty Orchards. The dilemma of how to deal with surplus apple crops in the years following World War I inspired them to create an apple-flavored, American version of
Turkish delight
.

Serving Suggestions:

Like Turkish delight, these candies make festive holiday treats. They are also ideal to make in the fall during apple season.

Candy-Making Notes:

Use a good-quality applesauce that is thick and contains as few additives as possible; it will cook better and give the candies a purer taste and texture. You can also make your own applesauce for these candies; be sure to use tart, firm apples and cook the applesauce until it is thick.

Recipe:

1.
Grease an 8-by-8-inch pan with butter or cooking spray.