French Classics Made Easy (13 page)
Read French Classics Made Easy Online
Authors: Richard Grausman
Even though the full range of pâtés has been discovered on this side of the Atlantic, there is still a tendency to lump them all under the heading of pâté, whereas there are distinct differences. Literally speaking, the word
pâté
means baked in a crust—which was designed to be a strong, edible, decorative container for the meat mixture. A terrine, on the other hand, is baked in a ceramic mold (called a terrine). In fact, the mold is often designed to look like a pâté’s crust. Then there are the galantines and ballotines—the aristocrats of the pâté world. Instead of a crust or a mold, the pâté mixture is usually poached or baked wrapped inside the skin of a chicken or duck and coated in aspic.
Although the container changes, the components and techniques for making a pâté, terrine, galantine, or ballotine are pretty much the same. They all contain a seasoned ground meat called a forcemeat, or
farce,
and strips of meat or poultry to add both a contrasting texture and a pattern to the sliced pâté. Most are served cold, with or without an aspic coating.
For this book, I have omitted pâtés baked in a crust (
en croûte
), because I don’t think the crust is worth the effort and even properly made is so thick that it’s close to inedible. And I’ve omitted galantines and ballotines, because they are really quite a time-consuming (though rewarding) production.
In the following recipes, I have removed a great deal of the fat called for in their classic counterparts, using just enough to give the pâtés the proper texture and taste.
HOME-STYLE TERRINE
WITH
P
RUNES
[TERRINE MAISON AUX PRUNEAUX]
This terrine is a good all-purpose recipe that can serve as a guide for numerous variations. You can use different meats or different flavoring and decorative ingredients (see “Terrines Variées,” facing page). Note that terrines need to be made at least a day in advance of serving, and optimally two to three days ahead.
Although this is a typical terrine, it differs from most in its fat content. Most recipes call for the baking mold to be lined with thin sheets of pork fat, and the meat itself covered with the same fat. This method originated in the days before refrigeration, to protect the terrine from airborne bacteria by completely sealing it with fat. I have omitted this fat from the recipe, as well as the strips of pork fat traditionally used to make a mosaic pattern in the sliced pâté.
Although the terrine is usually baked in a loaf shape and served cold, you can also shape the seasoned ground meat into patties, pan-fry like sausage, and serve with eggs for breakfast or with vegetables for dinner. Mixed with some cooked rice or bread crumbs, it can also be used to stuff cabbage or green peppers.
SERVES 8
4 shallots, trimmed and peeled
5 large sprigs parsley, tough stems removed
¼-inch slice (about ¼ pound) ham (boiled, baked, or smoked), cut into ¼-inch-wide strips
½ pound skinless, boneless chicken breast, cut into
¼-inch-wide strips
1 teaspoon salt
¾ teaspoon freshly ground pepper
½ teaspoon fresh or dried thyme leaves
¼ cup plus
2 tablespoons dry white wine
2 tablespoons Cognac
3 tablespoons Madeira
5 ounces fresh pork fat, cut into chunks
12 pitted prunes, marinated in Madeira (see
page 299
)
¾ pound lean pork, ground
¾ pound veal (shoulder), ground
⅛ teaspoon ground allspice
1 egg
1 tablespoon potato starch or cornstarch
1.
In a food processor, finely chop the shallots and parsley.
2.
Lay the strips of ham and chicken in a shallow dish and sprinkle with half of the shallot mixture, ¼ teaspoon of the salt, ¼ teaspoon of the pepper, and ¼ teaspoon of the thyme. Moisten with the 2 tablespoons white wine, 1 tablespoon of the Cognac, and 1 tablespoon of the Madeira.
3.
Add the pork fat and 4 of the prunes to the remaining shallot mixture in the processor and process to grind the fat, about 10 seconds.
4.
Add the ground lean pork and veal to the
processor and season with the allspice and the remaining salt, pepper, and thyme. Moisten with the remaining wine, Cognac, and Madeira. Add the egg and potato starch and process to combine, about 15 seconds.
5.
Divide the seasoned ground meat into four even portions. Spread one portion evenly over the bottom of a terrine or 4- to 5-quart loaf pan, using your fingers to make sure the corners are filled in.
6.
Completely cover the ground meat with alternating strips of chicken and ham, placing them lengthwise. You may have to cut the strips to fit the terrine. Cover the strips with another layer of ground meat, again using your fingers if necessary to spread the mixture evenly.
7.
Make a tight, compact row of prunes down the center, pressing them halfway into the layer of ground meat (you may need all the prunes). Cover with the third layer of ground meat.
8.
Cover the ground meat with the remaining chicken and ham strips. Cover with the final portion of ground meat, pressing it down with your hands to fit the terrine. Cover with the terrine lid or aluminum foil. (If time permits, let the terrine stand in the refrigerator overnight before baking to allow the flavors to fully develop.)
9.
Preheat the oven to 400°F with the rack set in the lowest position.
10.
Place the terrine in a larger baking pan and place on the pulled-out oven rack. Add boiling water to come 1½ inches up the sides of the terrine. Bake for 1 hour.
11.
Lower the oven temperature to 350°F and bake an additional 30 minutes. When done, the melted fat and juices should be clear and not cloudy. The meat will have shrunk away from the sides of the terrine, a cake tester inserted into the center of the terrine will come out hot to the touch, and an instant-read thermometer should read about 160°F.
12.
Remove the terrine from the oven, but keep it covered in the pan of water. Evenly weight the surface of the terrine with a 4- to 5-pound weight (e.g., 2 large cans of tomatoes) and allow to cool. If your terrine has a lid, remove it and replace it with aluminum foil before weighting.
13.
When cool, after about 1½ hours, remove the weight, cover the surface with plastic wrap, and refrigerate. The terrine is best eaten several days after it has been cooked, or it can be
frozen for later use. To serve, cut the terrine into ½-inch slices.
T
ERRINES
V
ARIEES
Use duck, pheasant, rabbit, or hare in place of the chicken, and the name changes to
terrine de canard, faisan, lapin,
or
lièvre aux pruneaux
.
IN ADDITION
There are a number of attractive white porcelain terrines that can be used for pâté. Those with ducks or rabbits on their lids can also be used, although technically they should have the meat of those animals in them. Most people, however, will use a ceramic or glass loaf pan and instead of bringing the terrine to the table, will present slices of the pâté on a platter or individual plates.
SERVING SUGGESTION
Slices of the terrine can be served as a first course, or with a mixed green salad, warm baguette, and dessert for lunch or a light supper. Serve the terrine with cornichons (small French pickles) or on a bed of lettuce.
WINE
Both white and red wines are suitable for serving with terrines.
VARIATION
R
USTIC
C
OUNTRY
-S
TYLE
P
ATE
[PÂTÉ DE CAMPAGNE]
For a country-style pâté, simply omit the ham and chicken strips and the prunes and grind up ½ pound of pork liver with the meat and pork fat.
CHICKEN LIVER MOUSSE
[MOUSSE DE FOIE DE VOLAILLE]
This is a quick and easy recipe for chicken liver mousse. Traditionally, an equal amount of butter is mixed with the livers to make the mousse. I have used what I consider to be the minimum amount for a successful mousse. When available, use duck, goose, pheasant, or pigeon livers.
SERVES 12
2 sticks (8 ounces) plus