Read Gunn's Golden Rules Online
Authors: Tim Gunn,Ada Calhoun
Molly went to an appointment with her doctor. There was nothing wrong with her. The doctor said, “What sent you to me?” and she was too embarrassed to say. So Molly and I said many disparaging things about Jean MacArthur.
The next week, Molly’s identical twin sister was diagnosed with aplastic anemia, a form of leukemia. Again, I don’t believe
in psychic phenomena, but we found that quite spooky at the time.
And even if I am not a believer, I did find that meeting incredibly useful. I still think about Jean’s train-wreck analogy whenever I talk to the
Project Runway
designers. I talk to them only about things they can change.
If we get back from Mood and they’ve bought only red fabric, I don’t say, “Gee, it’s too bad you didn’t get green!”
It doesn’t advance the plot. That’s why I wasn’t that thrilled by Nina’s words to the designers the day before the Bryant Park show in the Season 6 finale: “If you have anything referential, get rid of it!”
Get rid of it? The show was the next morning—a little late for replacing a whole look. Nina tends to talk about things the designers can’t change. Editors go there more than teachers. Editors are all about changing and improving all the time—which is what makes them so great and valuable to the industry, but it also makes them a little infuriating when there are unavoidable constraints. I like to talk only about the way things are, not the way they would be in an ideal world.
Maybe that’s why I like etiquette so much: manners help us deal with the way things are, with the place we find ourselves in, whatever that is. Rules of behavior come in handy when you can’t think straight, as when you’re extremely happy or sad over a major event like a birth or a death.
Funerals are especially tricky for people. At your most emotional you suddenly have to do some very complex logistics, usually involving last-minute travel reservations, car rentals, and ironing.
Which reminds me—one tip for the men out there: Make sure you have a nice dark suit and tie. Even if you never have
cause to wear them in the rest of your life, you will need one for funerals. It’s shocking how many men in their thirties don’t own a tie and don’t even know how to tie one! Even if you don’t need one for weddings, you need one for funerals. What message are you sending if you show up in a sweatsuit to a funeral? It’s a basic lack of respect. Every man needs a suit. Okay, end of lecture.
I should tell you about my father’s funeral in the mid-nineties. He’s been dead for more than fifteen years, and before that he’d been in a nursing home with Alzheimer’s for seven years. And yet, between you and me, I’m still not completely over his death.
When I went home years ago for the Thanksgiving holidays, my father was in the hospital with a bleeding ulcer. My mother and I went to see him, and he was pulling his IVs out and very disoriented. They had to restrain him. That’s how bad it was.
Well, the next morning, Thanksgiving Day, his doctor asked us into his office, and he had a social worker in the room with us. I thought,
What are all these people doing here on Thanksgiving? This must be serious.
Sure enough, the doctor said that my father had Alzheimer’s and told my mother, “This will ruin you financially. This will tear your entire family apart. And your husband will lose his soul.”
In other words:
Happy Thanksgiving!
When we left, we were both shaken up, but in the parking lot Mother turned to me and said, angrily, “What does that doctor know about our financial circumstances? Or the strength of our family? This won’t tear us apart. And that’s ridiculous that your father will
lose his soul
. How overdramatic.”
When we got home, the phone was ringing. My father was
restrained, but he had access to a phone and he kept calling over and over again, every minute and a half. Mother got to the point where she wouldn’t answer it. My niece was a year and a half or so, and she kept pointing to the phone every time it rang, saying, “Pop! Pop! Pop!” which was her name for him. She knew it was Pop calling. It was very cute, and very depressing. Finally, we took the receiver off the hook.
The first time we went to visit Dad at the nursing home, we brought Raffles, our family’s beloved dog and a favorite of my father’s. She pulled out of her leash and collar, ran through the place straight to my father, and jumped in his arms. She’d never been there before, but she knew exactly where to find her master. Every time from then on, we’d let Raffles loose at the front door, and she’d run to my father and jump onto his lap, tail wagging.
Cut to year six in the nursing home. We brought Raffles, and that time she didn’t bolt down the hallway. She didn’t even want to go into Dad’s room. She treated this man she used to worship like he was a foreign piece of furniture. At this point he really was a vegetable. I looked at my sister and said, “That doctor was right. His soul is gone.”
It was another full year before he actually died, of a congestive lung problem, but for that year, as much time as we spent with him, he was a stranger to us and we to him.
We were offered an autopsy to conclusively determine that it was Alzheimer’s. My mother asked my sister and me what we wanted to do, because there was concern about the disease being genetic. I had mixed feelings about it, so I asked my mother what she wanted to do. She said she thought maybe she would rather he didn’t go through any more indignities, so we decided to forgo the autopsy.
Besides, we were pretty sure of what it was. My father was fairly young when he died: sixty-seven. His mother had died in a mental hospital at age sixty-seven, too. That was in the early 1950s. I’m thinking that she must have had the same disease, and they didn’t know what to do with her, so they assumed she was crazy.
By the time my father was the age I am now, he’d already been diagnosed. Knock wood, I’m okay. And I’m ever vigilant about my mental health. I’m the first person waving down a flight attendant to tell her that the magazine’s crossword has been filled in and to request a new one. Puzzles keep your brain sharp; at least that’s what I’m counting on.
My mother still has her wits very much about her, and I think I’m a lot more like her than I am like my father. That said—if I start counting quarters and handing them to you to recount, you’ll know it’s too late. My father kept change in pill bottles. He would fill up a pill bottle, then pour out the coins count them, put them back in, and hand it to me to count. You can’t ask why. When someone is past the threshold of Alzheimer’s, you treat them the way you would an infant or very young child.
Now to the funeral: I am all in favor of cremation, but my father had never specified what he wanted, so we did the traditional thing. For some reason lost to time, we were having him buried in Ebensburg, Pennsylvania. Although Dad grew up in Cleveland, I believe his mother was from Pennsylvania.
My sister and her family were on the other side of Pennsylvania, so my mother and I stopped there overnight on the way to the funeral.
As we’re driving on through Pennsylvania the next day, it’s cold and starting to snow. We’re all off in our own worlds. I’m
staring out the car window at the winter weather, and suddenly, I have this flash: I left the garment bag with my suit at my sister’s, on the other side of the state. The wake was that very evening. The funeral was early the next morning. It was small-town America. It was Sunday. No shops were open. I had on a pair of casual khakis.
I started laughing hysterically. When I announced my dilemma, Wallace, my niece, who was then about seven, offered to color in my khaki pants with a black Sharpie. Then I laughed even harder because I was seriously considering it.
Luckily, my sister and brother-in-law pack like they’re leaving the country for a month, even if they’re just going around the corner, so they had an extra suit that was close enough to my size that I didn’t have to show up to my father’s funeral in marker-stained pants.
Anyway, how Freudian was that? This was the first time I had ever in my life been without a suit on hand, and it was the only time that it was absolutely necessary.
It was tough at the wake, because there he was, lying in front of us. The funeral was rough, too. Even though we’d waited for this moment for a long time, it was very hard once we realized he was really gone.
But the hardest time was six months later. Out of the blue, I received a check from an insurance company. Without telling anyone, many years before my father had taken out a life insurance policy with me as the sole beneficiary, and for quite a lot of money.
I had a colleague from Parsons staying with me that night. I opened the envelope, saw what he had done for me, and fell apart. We had to order takeout because I was too much of a mess to cook or go out.
He didn’t do that for anyone else or tell anyone that he’d done it—not even my mother. Everyone was shocked. I told my mother that I would turn the money over to her, but she wouldn’t let me.
My father and I were not close. He didn’t approve of me particularly, and he was not warm and fuzzy. Maybe he was trying to make up with me? I’ll never know. But it was lovely and completely unexpected. It was an act of pure generosity.
I like to think that it made him happy to make that secret gesture, and it certainly taught me a lesson about humanity. You never know what goes on inside people’s heads, even when they are your flesh and blood.
That is one thing I try to keep in mind when I talk about people’s behavior. I believe very strongly that we should all try our best to treat one another well, but I also know that some people who are difficult are doing their best, only their best isn’t all that great. I used to be much more hard-nosed about this and about a lot of other things. But that moment when I opened up the check from my father taught me that I didn’t actually know everything about him. He had things going on inside his head that I never knew and that I will probably never understand.
When someone does something cruel or rude now, I think of that.
I don’t expect that in twenty years I will get a check out of the blue from the person who cuts in front of me on line at the bank. But maybe one day someone who does the same thing will realize their error and apologize. Maybe we’ll all apologize for whatever we’ve done to hurt one another and forgive and be forgiven.
For as much as I relish being a know-it-all when it comes to fashion, when it comes to the future, I haven’t got a clue. “Carry on!” is something I say to the
Project Runway
designers after I visit them in the workroom, and it’s something I say to myself now: Carry on, and let’s see what happens next.
T
HIS BOOK WOULD NEVER
have happened without the encouragement and support of a number of critical individuals. To begin, I am grateful to my agent, Jonathan Swaden of CAA, for introducing me to Peter Steinberg of the Steinberg Agency, who became my book agent. Peter has been and continues to be a boulder of support and an unflagging cheerleader. Peter helped me refine the concept of the book and, in turn, he presented a précis to several publishing houses. Patrick Price at Simon & Schuster’s Gallery Books possessed such contagious enthusiasm for the book that I was instantly smitten with the imprint.
While I take great pride in authorship, Peter and Patrick understood that I would need a partner in this endeavor and, ideally, a partner who could bring to the project qualities and characteristics that I don’t and won’t possess. Specifically, I was looking for an individual of another gender and a younger generation. They introduced me to the divine Ada Calhoun. Without Ada, this book would have never materialized, literally. She was my conscience, my truth teller, my spiritual leader, and always a calm port. At a critical juncture, I gave Ada—and Peter and Patrick—plenty of reasons for why I felt the need to abandon the book. Those reasons were many—too
much work, too many moving parts in my life, too many competing pressures from things that I
had
to do rather than what I may
want
to do. Fortunately, these three key friends and allies were intractable and resolute.
The book must go on!
I am forever grateful to them and merely hope that we have another opportunity to work together.