How to Eat (87 page)

seared, and toasted pine nuts, with hummus, 237–39

Langue de chat, 19

Latkes, 63

Leeks

roasted, 286–87, 319, 376

and wine, German, 270

Leftovers, 67–68, 134–35

Christmas, 51, 61–64

Lemon, 376

avgolemono sauce, 200

chicken, 199–200

cream, 247

curd, 30–31

dressing, and roast garlic, 395

and egg sauce, chicken with rice and, 362–63

ice cream, 250–51, 254–55

ice cream, meringue, 255

linguine, 229, 230–31

pie, 272–74

pie, meringue, 256

Lemon balm and sauternes jelly, 337, 341–42

Lentils, 309

and black olive crostini, 303

sage and onion, 323–24

soup, and chestnut, 64

Lettuce

and lovage soup, 11

and pea soup, 347–48

Lime cream, mascarpone, and rum, 173

Linguine

with bacon, 146

with clams, 123–24

with crab, 393–94

lemon, 229, 230–31

Liver

breaded, 165

children’s recipes, 414–16, 438

with marsala, 131–32, 164–65

with sweet onions, 132–33

veal, and bacon pie, 432–34

Lovage, 11

and lettuce soup, 11

Macaroni and cheese, 427–28

Macaroons, 19

Mackerel

in cider, 179–80

smoked, 417

teriyaki, 384–85

Madeleines, Proust’s, 346–47

Maltaise sauce, 15–16

Mango, 401–2

Marjoram, oxtail with stout and, 92–93

Marmalade, Seville orange, 44–45

Marsala, 72

custard, muscovado, with muskily spiced prunes, 330–32

with gorgonzola and mascarpone crostini, 302

with liver, 131–32, 164–65

zabaglione, 154

Mascarpone

with gorgonzola and marsala crostini, 302

grouse with thyme and, 151–52

rhubarb, and muscat trifle, 107–9

rum, and lime cream, 173

tiramisu, white, 111–12

Mayonnaise

basic, 12–14

green (sauce verte), 14

rosemary and anchovy, 257–58

Meatballs in tomato sauce, 434–36

Meringues, 17–18, 167

lemon, ice cream, 255

lemon, pie, 256

pavlova, 332, 336

rhubarb pie, 234–35

Microwave oven, 167, 189, 371

Mincemeat pies, 60–61

Minestrone, 214, 215–17

Miso

black cod marinated in den miso, 385

broth, vegetable, 389

dressing, -mustard, 394

dressing, thick, for beans, 395

Monkfish, roast, 354–55

Mont Blanc, 176

Morels, chicken with, 135–36

Moroccan orange and date salad, 215

Mostarda di Venezia, 48–49

Moussaka, 104–5

Mullet, red, with garlic and rosemary, 168–69

Muscat

quinces poached in, 329–30

rhubarb, and mascarpone trifle, 107–9

and rhubarb jelly, 310, 312–13

Mushrooms

chanterelles, sole with, 172–73

crostini, 303–4

garlic, 423–24

mixed, 356

morels, chicken with, 135–36

pheasant with bacon and, braised, 101

porcini and fish pie, 241–43

ragoût, 202–3

raw, spinach and bacon salad, 262

risotto, 441–42

risotto, restrained, 392–93

sandwiches, 122–23

shiitake, dried, braised, with soba noodles, 383

shiitake, noodles with scallions, snow peas and, 178

soup, udon, 382

Mussels

marinière, 125–26

Thai-flavored, 386–87

Mustard

Chinese hot, sugar-spiced salmon with, 379–80

dressing, Dijon, 394–95

dressing, miso-, 394

Noodles

buckwheat, beet greens with, 390–91

chicken, 145

rice, with garlic, scallions, chili, and soy, 121

with scallions, shiitake mushrooms, and snow peas, 178

and seaweed salad, 383–84

soba, shiitake mushrooms, dried, braised, with, 383

soup, chili beef, aromatic, 381–82

soup, udon mushroom, 382

Nutmeg, 72, 376

pasta with butter and, 163

Nuts.
See specific nuts

Oils

basil, 233

flavored and infused, 163–64

rosemary-infused, 258

spaghetti aglio olio, 145–46

See also
Truffle oil

Olives, 196

black, and lentil crostini, 303

green, paste and roast pepper crostini, 302

Onions, 72

burnt, clapshot with, 287

gravy, red wine, cumin and, 245–46

lentils, sage and, 323–24

mush, 106–7

sauce, 269–70

sweet, liver with, 132–33

tart, 353–54

Oranges

cake, clementine, 66–67

cake, orange-blossom and almond, 115–16, 357

and date salad, Moroccan, 215

duck à la, 43–44

duck with honey and, 166

mint, and red-currant jelly, 275

salsa, duck with, 177–78

scallops with bitter, 44

Seville, 43

curd tart, 246

marmalade, 44–45

stuffing, and cranberry, 55

syrup, 28

zest, 198–99

Organic food, 73

Oxtail with stout and marjoram, 92–93

Oysters, ice-cold, hot sausages with, 313–14

Pancakes, 36

blini, 152–54

latkes, 63

See also
Crêpes

Pancetta

and chestnut salad, 327

spaghetti carbonara, 146–47

Panchphoran Aloo, 63–64

Panna cotta, scented, with gooseberry compote, 45–47

Pantry food, 70–72, 369–70

Papaya, 235, 401, 411–12

Parmesan, 69, 216

pasta with butter, cream, truffle oil and, 163

Parsley

and ham patties, 21

salsa verde, 181–83

sauce, 20–21

tabbouleh, 236–37

Parsnips

roast, 269–70

soup, 78

Passion fruit

curd, 31

fool, 174–75

pavlova, 332, 336

yogurt, honey, and cream, 211

Pasta

with anchovy sauce, 148–49

baked, 86–87

baked, veal and ham, 87–88

beef and beans with, 434

with butter and bouillon cube juices, 147–48

with butter, cream, parmesan, and truffle oil, 163

with butter and nutmeg, 163

and butternut squash soup, 144

and chickpea soup, 79–80

children’s recipes, 412–13, 417, 427–28, 439

lamb stew, Greek, 95–97

macaroni and cheese, 427–28

pantry supplies, 71

sausages, sauce with, 439

tagliatelle with chicken from the Venetian ghetto, 362

with unpestoed pesto, 148

See also
Linguine; Noodles; Spaghetti

Pastry

blind baking, 39–41

dough

plain, 36–38

rich, 38

sweet, 39–41

See also
Pies; Tarts

Pavlova, 332, 336

Pea(s), 140, 199, 261, 269, 415

and cod, 426

crostini, and garlic, 301

mint, and avocado salad, 343

orzotto, 318–19

petit pois à la Française, 105–6, 274–75

purée, roast cod, with, 175–76

risotto, 140–41

soufflé, 142–43

soup, 162

and lettuce, 347–48

split, 78, 80–81, 214

Peaches

poached, with sauternes custard, 339–41

and red currant salad, 325–26

sugar-sprinkled, roast, 171

Pears

and pecorino, 199

poires belle Hélène, 221–23

Pecorino and pears, 199

Peppers

and anchovies, 86

grilled, salad, 337–38, 375

in ratatouille, 102–4

roast, with green olive paste crostini, 302

skinning, 86

See also
Chili (peppers)

Periwinkles, 450

Pesto, 72, 419

chicken, grilled, with, 165

unpestoed, pasta with, 148

Pheasant

with gin and it, 333–35

with mushrooms and bacon, braised, 101

Pies

cherry, 294–95

chicken, 440–41

cottage/shepherd, 429–32

fish, Blakean, 357–58

fish and porcini, 241–43

lemon, 272–74

lemon meringue, summer, 256

mincemeat, 60–61

rhubarb meringue, 234–35

steak and kidney, 223–25

veal, liver, and bacon, 432–34

Pig’s bum, 291–92

Pine nuts

toasted, ricotta with honey and, 172

toasted, and seared lamb, with hummus, 237–39

Pistachio

crescents, 351–52

-sprinkled poached apricots stuffed with crème fraîche, 320

Plums

baked spiced aromatic, 116

fool, damson, 47

and grapes all’Italiana, 235

Polenta, oven-cooked, 203–4

Pomegranate

duck with, 133

juice, eggplant, slices with mint and, 240–41

Porcini and fish pie, 241–43

Pork

char siu, 399–400

deglazing sauce, 154

loin with bay leaves, 308–9

loin, roast, 285–86

See also
Bacon; Ham; Pancetta; Sausages

Potatoes, 85–86

baked, and cheese, 373–74

children’s recipes, 418–21, 424–25

crêpes, Parmentier with marinated smoked haddock, 219, 220–21

“croutons,” 307–8

garlic, 315, 425

hot, ceviche with, 314–15

leg of lamb, butterflied, with, 338–39

latkes, 63

leftover, 135

mashed

baked, 132

bubble and squeak, 61

children’s recipes, 418–21

cottage and shepherd pie, 429–32

and sausages, 176, 245

stuffing, 53

truffle oil and warm Santa Barbara shrimp, 68

new, 345

and quails’ eggs, 424

with truffle oil, 260–61

Potatoes
(continued)

Panchphoran Aloo (whole spices), 63–64

roast, 9, 57, 62, 85–86, 249–50, 253, 268, 279, 425

salad niçoise, 127–28

skins, paprika-toasted (and their mashed pulp), 321, 322–23

Prosciutto, 196, 233

beans wrapped in, 304–5