Lead-Pipe Cinch (30 page)

TIP 3:
There are several choices when unclogging a shower drain. Plungers are the first option. Though they aren’t always effective, they’re worth a try. If that doesn’t work, use a plumber’s snake to try and clear the trap. A last resort before calling a pro? No, not a harsh chemical cleaner—try a garden hose. Attach the hose to an outdoor faucet (or an indoor faucet, using a threaded adapter), push the hose deep into the drain and pack towels or rags around the opening, then turn the water on in short, hard bursts to clear the drain. Just don’t leave the hose in the drain, as a sudden drop in water pressure could siphon sewage back into your fresh water supply.

 

TIP 4:
If you’re looking for a toilet tank leak, and you can’t tell if the toilet is leaking around the tank bolts, try adding food coloring to the water in the tank. Wait about an hour, then touch the tips of the bolts with a white tissue. If you see color on the tissue, there’s a leak. If not, it’s just condensation.

When you have a condensation problem, it’s usually the result of cold water in the tank and warm, moist air. The resulting condensation, or “sweating,” can encourage mildew, and loosen floor tile. Left unattended it can damage subflooring. One easy solution is to empty the tank and glue foam rubber pads to the inside of the tank as insulation. If that doesn’t work, it’s time to call a pro to install a tempering valve, which will mix hot and cold water when filling the tank, to avoid the temperature differential that causes the sweating.

 

TIP 5:
Water heaters are a wonderful invention. Just ask anyone who has had one quit working in the middle of a shower. But because they operate on either gas or electricity, they are a potential source of trouble. Most problems are signaled by water that is either too hot or not hot enough. But if you hear rumbling—a sign of overheating—or have steam or boiling water come out of the valve or hot water faucets, shut the heater off IMMEDIATELY to avoid a dangerous situation.

A noisy water heater is often the result of scale and sediment buildup in the tank. The simplest solution is to turn off the heater and drain the tank to clear out the sediment. In an electric heater it may also indicate scale buildup on the element. If the element has scale buildup, you can remove the element, soak it in vinegar, and scrape off the scale.

 

TIP 6:
There are three main causes of noisy pipes: loose pipes, water logged air chambers, and water pressure that’s too high. Here are some suggestions for dealing with each of them.

Banging is usually caused by loose pipes. Loose pipes are an easy fix, if they’re accessible. For concealed pipes—inside walls, ceilings, and floors—you may want to consider professional help. But if you can reach a pipe you can anchor it to thwart its noise-making potential.

Pipe straps should be placed every six to eight feet on horizontal runs, and every eight to ten feet on vertical runs. If the pipes bang when you turn on the water, try adding straps, or cushioning the pipes with a rubber blanket, or both. If it’s a plastic pipe, be sure to leave room for expansion. And never use a galvanized strap on a copper pipe. The two metals do not play well together.

Hot water pipes may squeak. Hot water can expand the pipe, causing it to move in its strap and the friction may make the pipe squeak. Cushioning the pipe should help solve the problem.

Hammering happens when the water is turned off quickly. When the water slams to a stop it can cause a hammering sound. Check for loose pipes and treat accordingly. If the cause isn’t loose pipes, it may be water-logged air chambers, the lengths of pipe behind fixtures and appliances. These pipes are intended to hold a cushion of air to absorb the shock when the water is shut off. They can become filled with water and lose the ability to do their job.

It’s pretty easy to reset the air chambers. Just turn off the water to the system at the main shutoff valve. Then open all the faucets and let the system drain completely. When the system is drained, close the faucets and turn the main valve back on. The air chambers should refill with air. If that doesn’t work, check to see if your water pressure is too high (above eighty pounds per square inch {psi}).

You can install a pressure-reducing valve to deal with the problem. Or call in a plumber like Georgie or Barry if you don’t want to tackle that job yourself.