Maida Heatter's Book of Great Chocolate Desserts (51 page)

NOTE:
The light rum will barely be a noticeable taste. If you would like to really taste it, use dark rum. Or you can use Cognac, bourbon, or whiskey.

Chocolate Breeze

4
P
ORTIONS

I learned to make this in Home Ec. class in elementary school on Long Island—1 think I was about 10 or 12 years old at the time. My teacher was a wonderful and brave woman to teach a room full of thirty or so girls, all cooking at once, how to handle gelatin, how to beat and fold in egg whites, and how to whip cream. I have had the recipe ever since and have used it often.

It is lighter and airier than most chocolate desserts, and quick and easy to make—it is a breeze in more ways than one. It may be made in individual glasses or in a mold. Like all gelatin desserts it is at its best within a few hours after the gelatin has set, but I have made this a day ahead and it was still delicious. The recipe may be doubled.

2 ounces (2 squares) unsweetened chocolate

1 tablespoon (1 envelope) unflavored gelatin

¼ cup cold water

3 eggs (graded large, extra-large, or jumbo), separated

½ cup granulated sugar

Boiling water

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

⅛ teaspoon salt

Place the chocolate in the top of a small double boiler over hot water on moderate heat; cover until partially melted, then uncover and stir until completely melted.

While the chocolate is melting, sprinkle the gelatin over the cold water in a glass measuring cup and let stand.

Also meanwhile, with a wire whisk, beat the egg yolks and the sugar together in a medium-size mixing bowl, whisking briskly for about half a minute.

Add the warm melted chocolate and whisk until thoroughly mixed.

Add boiling water to the softened gelatin up to the 1-cup line. Stir with a metal spoon to dissolve the gelatin and then gradually stir into the chocolate mixture. Stir in the vanilla.

Partially fill a large bowl with ice and water. Place the bowl of chocolate mixture in the ice water and stir occasionally until the mixture begins to thicken. Remove it from the ice water and beat with an electric mixer or an egg beater until smooth.

In a small bowl, add the salt to the egg whites and beat until they hold a definite shape, but not until they are stiff or dry.

Fold about one-third of the chocolate mixture into the whites and then fold the whites into the remaining chocolate mixture.

If necessary, pour gently from one bowl to another to insure thorough blending.

Pour into four 7- or 8-ounce wine glasses or dessert bowls leaving a bit of head room on each.

Or, if you want to make a molded dessert, rinse a 4-cup thin metal mold (loaf pan, ring mold, melon mold) with cold water, shake out the water but do not dry the mold, and pour in the Breeze.

Cover glasses or mold with aluminum foil or plastic wrap (it should not touch the dessert), and refrigerate for at least a few hours.

If you have made this in a mold, shortly before serving cut around the top to loosen the edge, dip the mold in hot (not boiling) water for a few seconds, dry the mold quickly, cover with a flat serving plate and unmold. If the Breeze does not slip out easily, dip it again.

WHIPPED CREAM

1 cup heavy cream

½ teaspoon vanilla extract

2 tablespoons confectioners or granulated sugar

In a chilled bowl with chilled beaters, whip all the ingredients only until the cream holds a shape, but not until it is stiff.

Shortly before serving, place a large spoonful of the cream over each portion in a glass. Or, if you have made this in a mold, either place large spoonfuls of the cream around the unmolded dessert, or whip the cream a little longer and use a pastry bag fitted with a star tube and apply the cream in a decorative pattern either around or on top of the dessert.

VARIATION: When I grew up I started adding things to this original recipe. To make an Espresso Breeze, add 1 tablespoon of dry instant espresso or other instant coffee to the hot dissolved gelatin, and, if you wish, add a teaspoon or two of rum or Cognac to the chocolate mixture before folding in the egg whites.

Chocolate Charlotte

6 P
ORTIONS

This is a chocolate Charlotte Russe—an icebox cake. Wonderfully light, airy, delicate, delicious. The recipe is written for a loaf pan (which makes it very easy to form and then to unmold) with an 8-cup capacity—generally that is 9 × 5 × 3 inches, but they vary. This may be doubled for a larger pan or for 2 pans. It may be made just about 4 hours before serving or the day before.

2 3-ounce packages soft, fresh lady fingers (you will need about 18 double lady fingers)

1 tablespoon (1 envelope) unflavored gelatin

¼ cup cold water

½ cup milk

4 ounces semisweet chocolate

¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar

4 eggs (graded large or extra-large), separated

2 tablespoons dark rum

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

½ cup heavy cream

Pinch of salt

Prepare a loaf pan with an 8-cup capacity by tearing off two pieces of aluminum foil, one for the length and one for the width—they should both be long enough to extend several inches over the edges of the pan. Fold the pieces of foil lengthwise and put them in place in the pan.

Separate the ladyfingers into rows but not into individual fingers—leave them attached to each other in a strip. Line the bottom of the pan with ladyfingers, placing them rounded side down and touching each other across the bottom, not lengthwise. (This will be the top of the cake and it will look better if the ladyfingers go across the cake the short way.) Then place a row of ladyfingers standing upright, rounded side out, along each of the long sides of the pan—not on the short ends. (Reserve enough ladyfingers for a final layer on the top.) Set aside.

Sprinkle the gelatin over the cold water in a small cup and let stand.

Place the milk and the chocolate in the top of a small double boiler over hot water on moderate heat. Stir with a small wire whisk until the chocolate is melted and the mixture is smooth.

Add ¼ cup of the sugar (reserve the remaining 2 tablespoons) and stir to mix.

In a small bowl stir the egg yolks lightly just to mix. Add a few spoonfuls of the hot chocolate milk mixture, stir together, and then add the egg-yolk mixture to the remaining chocolate milk. Stir constantly over hot water for about 2 minutes.

Remove the top of the double boiler, add the softened gelatin, and stir to dissolve. Mix in the rum and vanilla.

Pour the chocolate mixture into a large mixing bowl. Place it in a larger bowl partially filled with ice and water. Stir until it is completely cool and then remove it from the ice water temporarily.

In a small bowl whip the cream only until it holds a soft shape and set aside.

In the small bowl of an electric mixer add the salt to the egg whites and beat until they barely hold a soft shape. Reduce the speed to moderate and
gradually add the reserved 2 tablespoons sugar. Then increase the speed and beat briefly only until the whites are slightly thicker and barely hold a point. Set aside.

Replace the bowl containing the chocolate mixture in the ice water and stir constantly with a rubber spatula until the chocolate barely begins to thicken to the consistency of a light cream sauce. (It is best if the whipped cream, beaten whites, and chocolate mixture are all the same thickness.)

Remove the bowl from the ice water and immediately add the beaten whites and whipped cream and fold all together.

Pour the mixture into the ladyfinger-lined pan.

Then cover the top with another layer of ladyfingers going in either direction (this will be the bottom).

There will be ladyfingers left over.

Fold the aluminum foil extensions over the top to cover the ladyfingers.

Refrigerate for 3 to 4 hours (if the recipe is doubled and made in one large pan it should be refrigerated for 5 to 6 hours) or overnight.

Shortly before serving, uncover the top. Cover with a serving platter. Invert and remove the pan and the aluminum foil. Refrigerate.

Serve with whipped cream which may be served separately as a sauce (that’s my preference) or may be applied to the Charlotte with a pastry bag fitted with a star-shaped tube.

WHIPPED CREAM

1 cup heavy cream

¼ cup strained confectioners sugar

2 tablespoons dark rum

In a chilled bowl with chilled beaters, whip the above ingredients. If you plan to serve the cream separately, whip it only until it thickens to the consistency of a sauce. For decorating whip it longer until it holds a shape.

(If the cream is to be served as a sauce, it may be whipped ahead of time and refrigerated. If so, it will separate slightly—just stir it a bit with a small wire whisk before serving. If the cream is to be put on with a pastry bag it may be done a few hours before serving.)

NOTE:
If you wish, the rum may be left out of the Charlotte and the whipped cream—substitute ½ teaspoon vanilla extract in the cream.

Chocolate Prune Whip

6 G
ENEROUS PORTIONS

This could be called a mousse—it is light, airy, creamy—an elegant version of an old-time classic. It is made in individual portions, either 6 to 8 hours ahead or the day before.

1 17-ounce jar cooked prunes (see Note)

4 ounces semisweet chocolate

1 tablespoon (1 envelope) unflavored gelatin

½ cup granulated sugar

¼ teaspoon cinnamon (that is enough— do not use more)

Pinch of salt

1⅓ cups milk

3 eggs (graded large or extra-large), separated

Optional: 2 tablespoons Cognac

½ cup heavy cream

½ cup walnuts, cut into medium-size pieces

Drain the prunes in a strainer or a colander, remove the pits, and cut or chop the prunes into rather small pieces—they should not be mashed or pureed, but the pieces should not be large. Let the chopped prunes stand in a strainer.

Break up the chocolate and place it in a heavy 2-quart saucepan. Add the gelatin, ¼ cup of the sugar (reserve remaining ¼ cup), cinnamon, salt, and milk. Place over medium heat and stir for about 5 minutes until the chocolate is melted and the mixture is smooth. If it is not smooth, stir it briefly with a small wire whisk.

In a bowl beat the egg yolks just to mix. Stirring constantly, add about half of the hot chocolate milk mixture. Then stir the yolk mixture into the remaining chocolate milk. Cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute. Set aside to cool, stirring occasionally. Stir in the optional Cognac.

Meanwhile, in a small bowl whip the cream until it holds a shape, and set it aside.

And, in the small bowl of an electric mixer, beat the whites until they barely hold a soft shape. Reduce the speed to moderate and gradually add the reserved ¼ cup of sugar. Increase the speed to high and beat until the whites hold a definite shape but not until they are stiff and dry. Set aside.

Now transfer the chocolate milk to a large mixing bowl. Place it in a larger bowl of ice and water. Stir constantly until the mixture begins to thicken. Beat it briefly with an egg beater or an electric mixer. Then stir in the chopped prunes and the nuts. Fold in the whipped cream and the beaten egg whites.

Spoon the mixture into 6 wine glasses or dessert bowls.

Refrigerate for most of the day or overnight.

OPTIONAL:
If you wish, sprinkle the tops with grated or shaved chocolate, or place a few Chocolate Slabs (see page 263) upright into the top of each portion.

NOTE:
You may use dried prunes and stew them yourself. They should be cooked until they are really soft. After they are pitted and chopped, you should have 1¼ cups.