Milk (56 page)

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Authors: Anne Mendelson

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More steering came from fellow culinary historians and other dairy-history buffs including Gary Allen, Darra Goldstein, Annie Hauck-Lawson, Lisa Heldke, Ben Katchor, Rachel Laudan, Jan Longone, Sandra L. Oliver, Krishnendu Ray, Laura Shapiro, William Rubel, Robin Weir, and many, many members of the Association for the Study of Food and Society (ASFS) listserv.

My very great thanks to many cooks, culinary experts, and assorted colleagues and friends, including Joan Bolker, Cara De Silva, Naomi Duguid, Nicki Kalish, Leslie Land, Zarela Martínez, Lynda Owen, Maricel E. Presilla, Nachammai Raman, and Susan J. Talbutt.

SELECT BIBLIOGRAPHY

Culinary works for a general audience can’t accommodate the sort of reference apparatus that one expects in works of scholarship—a drawback, perhaps, in a cookbook that strays as far into polemical territory as this one. Readers interested in finding out more about milk and its history will find paths to further learning in the works listed below. I will be happy to direct people frustrated by the absence of documentation for particular factual claims to specific sources; please write to me at
[email protected]
.

HISTORICAL, SCIENTIFIC, AND OTHER SPECIALIZED WORKS

Allport, Susan.
The Queen of Fats: Why Omega-3s Were Removed from the Western Diet and What We Can Do to Replace Them
. Berkeley: University of California Press, 2006.

Atherton, Henry V., and J. A. Newlander.
Chemistry and Testing of Dairy Products
, 4th edition. Westport, Conn.: AVI Publishing, 1977.

Aubaile-Sallenave, Françoise. “
Al-Kishk
: The Past and Present of a Complex Culinary Practice,” in
A Taste of Thyme: Culinary Cultures of the Middle East
, ed. by Sami Zubaida and Richard Tapper, 2nd edition. London: I. B. Tauris, 2000.

Banerji, Chitrita.
Eating India: An Odyssey into the Food and Culture of the Land of Spices
. New York: Bloomsbury USA, 2007.

———.
Land of Milk and Honey: Travels in the History of Indian Food.
London: Seagull Books, 2007.

Behr, Edward. “Elegy for the Taste of Cream: Low Technology and Old Pastures,” in
The Art of Eating,
1990, no. 15, pp. 1–8.

Du Puis, E. Melanie.
Nature’s Perfect Food: How Milk Became America’s Drink
. New York: New York University Press, 2002.

Hoffpauir, Robert. “Water Buffalo,” in
The Cambridge World History of Food
, eds. Kenneth F. Kiple and Kriemhild Coneè Ornelas. Cambridge, U.K.: Cambridge University Press, 2000; see vol. I, pp. 583–607.

International Dairy Foods Association.
Dairy Facts, 2005 Edition
. Washington, D.C.: International Dairy Foods Association, 2005.

Jensen, Robert G., ed.
Handbook of Milk Composition
. San Diego: Academic Press, 1995.

Kindstedt, Paul, with the Vermont Cheese Council.
American Farmstead Cheese: The
Complete Guide to Making and Selling Artisan Cheeses
. White River Junction, Vt.: Chelsea Green, 2005.

Kosikowski, Frank V., and Vikram V. Mistry.
Cheese and Fermented Milk Foods,
3rd edition. 2 vols. Westport, Conn.: F. V. Kosikowski, 1997.

Kramer, Mark.
Three Farms: Making Milk, Meat, and Money from the American Soil
. Boston: Little, Brown, 1980.

Lampard, Eric E.
The Rise of the Dairy Industry in Wisconsin: A Study in Agricultural Change
. Madison: State Historical Society of Wisconsin, 1963.

Lampert, Lincoln M.
Modern Dairy Products: Composition, Food Value, Processing, Chemistry, Bacteriology, Testing, Imitation Dairy Products
, 3rd edition. New York: Chemical Publishing, 1975.

Lysaght, Patricia, ed.
Milk and Milk Products from Medieval to Modern Times
. Proceedings of the Ninth International Conference on Ethnological Food Research. Edinburgh: Canongate Academic, 1994.

McGee, Harold.
On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen
, 2nd edition. New York: Scribner, 2004.

Mahias, Marie-Claude. “Milk and Its Transformations in Indian Society.”
Food and Foodways
, 1988, vol. 2, pp. 265–88.

Nantet, Bernard, et al.
Cheeses of the World
. New York: Rizzoli, 1993.

Park, Young W., and George F. W. Haenlein, eds.
Handbook of Milk of Non-Bovine Mammals
. Ames, Iowa: Blackwell, 2006.

Porter, Valerie.
Cattle: A Handbook to the Breeds of the World
. London: A&C Black/Christopher Helm, 1991.

———.
Goats of the World
. Ipswich, U.K.: Farming Press, 1996.

Sabban, Françoise. “Un savoir-faire oublié: le travail du lait en Chine ancienne.”
Zinbun: Memoirs of the Research Institute for Humanistic Studies, Kyoto University
, 1986, vol. 21, pp. 31–65.

Selitzer, Ralph.
The Dairy Industry in America
. New York: Dairy & Ice Cream Field and Books for Industry, 1976.

Simoons, Frederick J.
Food in China: A Cultural and Historical Inquiry
. Boca Raton, Fla.: CRC Press, 1991.

Smith, Bruce D.
The Emergence of Agriculture
. New York: Scientific American Library, 1995.

Trout, G. Malcolm.
Homogenized Milk: A Review and Guide
. East Lansing: Michigan State College Press, 1950.

Tyler, Howard D., and M. E. Ensminger.
Dairy Cattle Science
, 4th edition. Upper Saddle River, N.J.: Pearson/Prentice Hall, 2006.

Walker, Harlan, ed.
Milk: Beyond the Dairy
. Proceedings of the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery 1999. Totnes, U.K.: Prospect Books, 2000.

Wilson, C. Anne.
Food and Drink in Britain: From the Stone Age to Recent Times
. New York: Harper & Row/Barnes & Noble, 1974.

Wong, Noble P., ed.
Fundamentals of Dairy Chemistry
, 3rd edition. New York: Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1988.

Wright, Russell O.
Life and Death in the United States: Statistics on Life Expectancies, Diseases and Death Rates for the Twentieth Century
. Jefferson, N.C.: McFarland, 1997.

COOKBOOKS

Acton, Eliza.
Modern Cookery for Private Families
. Non-facsimile reissue of 1855 edition. Lewes, U.K.: Southover Press, 1993.

Batra, Neelam.
1,000 Indian Recipes
. New York: Wiley, 2002.

Carroll, Ricki.
Home Cheesemaking: Recipes for 75 Homemade Cheeses
, 3rd edition. North Adams, Mass.: Storey Books, 2002.

David, Elizabeth.
French Provincial Cooking
. Harmondsworth, U.K.: Penguin Books, 1969.

Diat, Louis.
Cooking à la Ritz
. Philadelphia: Lippincott, 1941.

Field, Michael.
Michael Field’s Cooking School: A Selection of Great Recipes Demonstrating the Pleasures and Principles of Fine Cooking
. New York: William Morrow, 1965.

Fried, Barbara R.
The Berry Cookbook
. New York: Collier Books, 1962.

Goldstein, Darra.
A Taste of Russia: A Cookbook of Russian Hospitality
. New York: Harper Perennial, 1991.

Hazelton, Nika Standen.
The Continental Flavor: A Cookbook
. Garden City, N.Y.: Doubleday, 1961.

Hom, Ken.
Fragrant Harbor Taste: The New Chinese Cooking of Hong Kong
. New York: Simon & Schuster, 1989.

Jaffrey, Madhur.
An Invitation to Indian Cooking
. New York: Random House/Vintage Books, 1975.

———.
Madhur Jaffrey’s World-of-the-East Vegetarian Cooking
. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1981.

———.
Madhur Jaffrey’s World Vegetarian
. New York: Clarkson Potter, 1999.

Jones, Evan.
The World of Cheese
. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1976.

Jones, Judith, and Evan Jones.
The Book of
New
New England Cookery
. Hanover, N. H.: University Press of New England, 2001.

Kachru, Purnima.
Kashmiri Kitchen
. New Delhi: Roli Books/Lustre Press, 2000.

Kaneva-Johnson, Maria.
The Melting Pot: Balkan Food and Cookery
. Totnes, U.K.: Prospect Books, 1995.

Kaufman, Edna.
Melting Pot of Mennonite Cookery, 1874–1974
, 3rd edition. North Newton, Kans.: Bethel College Women’s Association, 1975.

Kochilas, Diane.
The Glorious Foods of Greece: Traditional Recipes from the Islands, Cities, and Villages
. New York: William Morrow, 2001.

Kremezi, Aglaia.
The Foods of Greece
. New York: Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 1993.

Lambert, Paula.
The Cheese Lover’s Companion & Guide
. New York: Simon & Schuster, 2000.

Lang, George.
The Cuisine of Hungary
. New York: Atheneum, 1971.

Maier-Bruck, Franz.
Das Grosse Sacher Kochbuch: Die österreichische Küche
. Munich: Schuler Verlagsgesellschaft, 1975.

———.
Vom Essen auf dem Lande: Das grosse Buch der österreichischen Bauernküche und Hausmannskost
. Vienna: Kremayr und Scheriau, 1981.

Ozan, Özcan.
The Sultan’s Kitchen: A Turkish Cookbook
. Boston: Periplus Editions, 1998.

Roden, Claudia.
A Book of Middle Eastern Food
. New York: Random House/Vintage Books, 1974.

Rose, Peter G., trans. and ed.
The Sensible Cook (De Verstandige Kock): Dutch Foodways in the Old and the New World
. Syracuse, N.Y.: Syracuse University Press, 1989.

Saberi, Helen.
Afghan Food and Cookery (Noshe Djan)
. New York: Hippocrene Books, 2000.

Saint-Ange, E.
La Cuisine de Madame Saint-Ange: recettes et méthodes de la bonne cuisine française
. Paris: Librairie Larousse, 1982.

Scharfenberg, Horst.
Die deutsche Küche
. Bern, Switzerland: Hallwag AG Bern, 1980.

Shaida, Margaret.
The Legendary Cuisine of Persia
. New York: Interlink Books, 2002.

Sheraton, Mimi.
From My Mother’s Kitchen: Recipes and Reminiscences
, rev. edition. New York: HarperCollins, 1991.

Shroff, Veema, and Vanmala Desai.
100 Easy-to-Make Gujarati Dishes
, 7th edition. New Delhi: Vikas Publishing/Tarang Paperbacks, 1990.

Strybel, Robert, and Maria Strybel.
Polish Heritage Cookery
. New York: Hippocrene Books, 1993.

Uvezian, Sonia.
The Book of Yogurt: An International Collection of Recipes
. Hopewell, N.J.: Ecco Press, 1999.

———.
Recipes and Remembrances: From an Eastern Mediterranean Kitchen
, 2nd edition. Northbrook, Ill.: Siamanto Press, 2001.

von Bremzen, Anya, and John Welchman.
Please to the Table: The Russian Cookbook
. New York: Workman Publishing, 1990.

Wolfert, Paula.
The Cooking of the Eastern Mediterranean
. New York: HarperCollins, 1994.

———.
Mediterranean Grains and Greens
. New York: HarperCollins, 1998.

INTERNET SOURCES

A great deal of information is now available online along with even greater amounts of misinformation, politicking, and rumormongering. Some sites that may be of interest to readers of this book:

http://www.aphis.usda.gov/vs/ceah/ncahs/nahms/dairy/
Web site of the USDA animal health monitoring and surveillance division.

http://classes.ansci.uiuc.edu/ansc438/
Online review and syllabus of Professor Walter L. Hurley’s class in lactation biology, Department of Animal Sciences, University of Illinois at Urbana.

http://www.foodsci.uoguelph.ca/dairyedu/home.html
Wide-ranging source on dairy science and technology, maintained by the dairy science department of the University of Guelph, Ontario.

http://webexhibits.org/butter/
Extremely diverse and entertaining (if not always factually reliable) site dedicated to butter and its historical/culinary/cultural fortunes.

INDEX

(Page references in
italic
refer to illustrations. Page references in
boldface
refer to recipes.)

abomasum,
2.1
,
9.1

acid coagulation,
4.1
,
5.1

acidophilus milk

acidosis, ruminal

Acton, Eliza

Africa,
1.1
,
1.2
,
1.3
,
6.1
,
6.2
,
8.1

agglutinins,
5.1
,
5.2
,
5.3

Agriculture Department, U.S. (USDA),
2.1
,
2.2
,
8.1

ahimsa

Ají de Leche (Venezuelan Milk-Chile Infusion),
5.1

alcoholic fermentation,
7.1
,
7.2
,
7.3
,
9.1

Alderney cows,
2.1
,
2.2
,
2.3

Alphabet for Gourmets, An
(Fisher)

American Heart Association,
2.1
,
2.2

American Woman’s Home, The
(Beecher and Stowe)

antibiotics

appetizers and first courses:

Blueberry Soup, Cold,
7.1

Herring with Sour Cream Sauce,
7.1

see also
dips and spreads

Apple-Onion Cream Soup,
5.1

aseptic packaging

asses,
1.1
,
1.2

aurochsen,
1.1
,
1.2
,
1.3

Austria, Austrian cuisine

Buttermilk-Caraway Soup,
7.1

Chicken Paprikás,
7.1

Liptauer cheese,
9.1

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