Model: The Ugly Business of Beautiful Women (74 page)

Crain, Jake,
401

Crandall, Bradshaw, 69

Crawford, Cindy, 4, 9-27,
11
, 87,
150
, 412, 416, 433, 435, 451

background and career of, 18-24

first modeling job of, 19

Gere’s relationship with, 10, 25-27, 482

income of, 10, 20, 24

nonmodeling career of, 24-26

nude posing of, 13-14, 23

as symbol, 12

Times
ad of, 26-27

Vogue
shoot of, 9-10, 17, 22-23

Crespi, Rodolfo, 37

Cumming-Bell, Anne, 139

Curtis, Charlotte, 253

Cushing, Minnie, 333

Dahl-Wolfe, Louise,
28
, 38-39,
53
, 65, 76, 78, 87,
89
, 91, 95, 107, 108, 231, 255

d’Aillencourt, Simone, 209,
210
, 264, 285-286, 288, 377

Daily Express
, 164, 199

Daily Mail
, 27, 288

D’Alessio, Francesco, 391, 392, 393, 395

Dalton, Gloria, 59

Daniels, Elise, 106, 107, 110

Dano, Emanuelle, 264-265, 301

Darin, Agneta, 200,
201

Daves, Jessica, 169

Davi, Robert, 402, 410

David, Jean-Louis, 264

Davies, Marion, 40, 73

Davies, Nigel David, 179-183,
180

Davis, Gwen, 253

Davis, Mary Webb, 242

Dawber, Pam, 336, 338

Dawnay, Jean, 139

Dawson, Kim, 15, 292, 360

Day, Corinne, 485, 488

Dearing, Gérald, 281, 282

Decker, Nancy, 353

Deely, Dan, 248, 250, 337, 338, 340, 342, 477

Deering, William, 98, 105

de Gueldre, Jean-Marie, 287, 385, 396, 468

de la Falaise, Lucie, 488

De La Salle, Pierre “Pitou,” 109-113

della Schiava, Peppone, 376-377

Dell’Olio, Louis, 414

Dell’Orefice, Carmen, 75, 86, 106, 112, 136,
148
, 164, 202, 230

background and career of, 102-105,
104

declining career of, 146-149

Leigh and, 103

Vogue
and, 105, 146

Delphine, 489

Demarchelier, Patrick, 9, 12, 14, 17-18, 19, 22-23,
150
, 255, 259, 265, 267, 277, 281, 282, 310,
315
, 320, 324, 326, 376, 421, 437, 456, 485, 486, 487, 488

De Meijian, 43,
45

de Menil, Francois, 356

de Meyer, Adolphe, 31, 38, 41

Deneuve, Catherine, 173, 229

De Niro, Robert, 436

de Nointel, Jacques,
203
, 256, 277, 279-280, 281, 282, 284, 373, 377, 382-383, 456, 463

Dépêche Mode
, 280, 428

Depp, Johnny, 489

D’Erlanger, Leo, 40

de Senville, Paul, 489

Despointes, Louise, 256-265,
258
, 267, 287, 301, 303, 490-492

Dessner, Clyde Matthew, 12

Devos, Nina,
210

Dey, Susan, 244, 317

de Zogheb, Anne, 140, 141

di Cicco, Pat, 105

Dick Cavett Show
, 252-253

Dickinson, Debbie, 289, 291, 305, 352, 387, 487

Dickinson, Janice, 289-291, 310, 313,
316
, 317, 328-329, 333, 348, 355, 367, 420, 487

Reinhardt’s relationship with, 314, 320-325

Dillman, Bradford, 114, 121-122

Dilworth, Clay Deering, 98

di Napoli, Caroline, 140

Dinarzade (Lillian Farley), 40

Dior, Christian, 73, 96, 137, 138, 215, 216, 267

di Pietro, Richard, 381

Dolce, Guido, 1-2

Dollé, Jean-Pierre, 287, 307, 384-386, 396, 409, 480

Donahue, Nancy, 314, 353, 364, 449

Donovan, Terence, 153, 156-157, 164-165, 167, 169, 170, 173

Dormer, Richard, 164

Dorso, Betty McLauchlen, 35-36, 83, 244

Double Feature
(Stamp), 172

Douglas, Meghan, 6

Doukas, Sarah, 482-483, 486

Dovima (Dorothy Virginia Margaret Juba), 107, 131-136, 202, 207

background of, 132-133

career of, 132-134

death of, 208

decline of, 136

Natálie on, 133, 134-136

“Dovima and the Elephants” (Avedon), 134,
135

Dragoti, Stan, 244, 247, 331, 332, 335

Drawant, Henry, 81, 82

drugs, 229-230, 233-234, 265, 268-269, 330-331, 342-344, 353, 366, 386, 494

Duby, Caroline, 383

Ducksbury, April, 141, 176, 379, 397, 449, 451, 460, 462

Ducret, Giuliana, 289, 387-388, 391

Duffy, Brian, 153, 157, 167, 168, 169, 170, 181, 204, 229

Duka, John, 425

Dunaway, Faye, 230, 247

Duncanson, Judith, 341

Dussler, Editha,
201

Du Val, Gaston, 34

Duve, Vanessa, 491

Dyer, Nina, 139

East Side Express
, 388

Eastwood, Clint, 488

Ebony
, 294

Edelman, Asher, 479

Edelman, John, 479

Eder, Gabor, 34, 44

Egoïste
, 106

Elgort, Arthur, 255, 259, 265, 279, 281, 282, 376, 417, 437

Elite Models, 1, 7, 8, 14, 17, 19, 24-25, 37, 240, 266, 267, 284, 291, 303, 304, 355, 367, 370, 371, 397, 407, 409, 440, 449, 493, 504

commission paid by, 475

Esch’s attempted deal for, 480-481

expansion of, 460-462

Ford Models’ fashion war with, 279-280, 302, 305, 306-311, 322-323, 351-352, 379-380

launching of, 300-301

Look of the Year contest of, 451, 452, 495

Marie and, 396-398, 400, 458-462, 497

Models One and, 461-462

Premier and, 462

Prestige and, 463

Superstars Swimsuit Calendar of, 421

Trinity and, 433-435

Elle
, 20, 110, 118, 137, 169, 170, 181, 204, 263, 282, 291, 294, 317, 325, 420, 426, 429, 475, 482, 483

growth of, 430-431

Ellen Harth Agency, 239-240

Elliot, Steve, 98

Élysées 3, 276, 277, 279-280, 281, 282, 283-284, 285, 286, 300, 301, 318

Emberg, Kelly, 314, 353, 449

Enfield, Cy, 160

English Boy, 174-175, 224

Ericson, Dolores, 200

Esch, Dieter, 14, 17, 24, 478-480, 497

Esquire
, 228, 346

Euro-Planning/Stéphane Lanson, 292-293, 297, 298, 300, 398, 465

Evangelista, Linda, 7, 12,
150
, 407, 408-409, 412,
413
, 416, 426, 429, 441-442,
459
, 487

background of, 427-428

Meisel and, 433-435, 439

as member of Trinity, 431, 433-440

Evans, Charlie, 141

Evans, Robert, 141, 348

Eyes of Laura Mars, The
, 350

Face, The
, 485

Face of the 80s contest, 451, 472, 474

Faces (agency), 479

Faithfull, Marianne, 175

Falkenburg, Jinx, 55-58,
57
, 59, 73

FAM, 399, 489-490

Fame, Ltd., 352-354

Farley, Lillian (Dinarzade), 40

Fashion & Film, 239

Fashion Bureau, 81, 86, 102, 103, 105

Fashion Group, 96, 237, 425

fashion magazines, 40-41

British, 167

pay scale of, 16

photographers and, 77-78, 130

World War II and, 77-78

Fashion Model, 15, 277, 286, 376, 377, 387, 478

fashion photography:

Avedon and, 106-107

disco culture and, 226-229

first color fashion photo and, 41

first known fashion photograph and, 38

French Mob and, 255-256, 265, 280-281, 300

London scene and, 163-167

magazines and, 77-78, 130

outdoor, 77-78

Rayographs and, 39, 42

subtext and, 107

technology and, 38-39, 77-78

Terrible Trio and, 153, 156, 167, 169-172, 181

see also individual photographers

Fath, Jacques, 117, 137, 138

fees and earnings, 6, 16, 351, 500-501

of black models, 238-239

“reuse” payments, 312

television residuals, 197

Feitler, Bea, 247

Feldman, Ed, 241

Felicitas, 491

Ferri, Fabrizio, 375, 492

Ferry, Bryan, 298, 347

Fertig, Bob, 36, 37, 48, 59, 60, 61-62, 64, 65-66

Feurer, Hans, 282, 295

Fiedler, Christa, 209, 277, 285, 286, 289

Field, Simon, 314

Figaro Madame
, 428

Filippachi, Daniel, 109

Finkelstein, Alan, 351-355

FitzGerald, Frances, 224-225

Flagler, Palen, 50, 72

Flanders, Annie, 424

Fleischman, Mark, 328

Foley-Anderson, Sara, 486, 488, 492

Fonseca, José, 176, 379, 461

Fonssagrives, Fernand, 51

Fonssagrives, Lisa, 12, 51-54,
53
, 83-84, 107, 137, 398

Penn and, 84-85

Foray, Betty, 237

Forbach, Joan, 396

Ford, Billy, 123, 200, 472,
473
, 474

Ford, Eileen, 5, 80, 83, 85,
93
, 97, 113, 123, 124,
125
, 129, 130, 133, 146, 171, 176, 207, 224, 228, 229, 231, 235, 246, 248, 255, 263, 265, 266, 267, 282, 283, 284, 290, 295, 298, 319, 337, 341, 343, 348, 350, 353, 355, 364, 374, 398, 407, 418, 457, 473, 474, 479, 494, 495

Ford, Eileen (
continued
)

background of, 92-94

Brunel and, 4, 468-469, 471-472

Casablancas’s fashion war with, 279-280, 302, 305, 306-311, 322-323, 351-352, 379-380

on
Dick Cavett Show
, 252-253

Dovima and, 136, 208

Europe visited by, 138-142

Hutton and, 217, 218

Knudsen and, 363, 370, 371

Leigh and, 75, 105, 111-112, 204, 206, 208-209, 211

Mullen affair and, 127-128

Patchett and, 87-88

retirement and, 472, 497-498

Sawyer’s interview of, 468-469, 470

Turlington and, 416-417

21 International and, 285-286

Twiggy and, 187-188

Veruschka and, 187-188

Wilhelmina and, 196, 199-202

Ford, Gerard, 85, 92, 93, 94-95, 100, 101, 108, 129, 130, 132, 133, 146, 149, 172, 181, 197, 200, 202, 206-209, 221, 238, 246, 259, 279-280, 298, 302, 305, 307, 309, 311, 335, 337, 340, 343, 353, 355, 369, 370, 371, 375, 389, 398, 446, 460,
473
, 474, 479, 504

Conover and, 54-55

Mullen’s affair with, 123-128

Parker and, 118-119

retirement and, 472, 497-498

“reuse” payments and, 312

21 International and, 285-286

Ford, Jamie, 95, 123, 200, 472

Ford, Katie, 140, 200, 418, 433, 472-474,
473
, 480

Ford, Lacey, 200, 472,
473

Ford Models, 1, 14, 16, 37, 123, 133, 176, 197, 218, 229, 244, 246, 248, 259, 294, 353, 354, 440, 463, 504-505

Billingsley and, 95-96

black models and, 238

commissions paid by, 475

Dell’Orefice and, 146

Elite’s fashion war with, 279-280, 302, 305, 306-311, 322-323, 351-352, 379-380

Esch’s attempted deal for, 479-480

European expansion of, 138-140

Face of the 80s contest of, 451, 472, 474

Ford’s retirement and, 472, 497-498

founding and growth of, 94-95

Hartford Agency and, 101

Leigh and, 94, 101, 105-106, 140

lingerie posing and, 200

Natálie and, 94-97, 130-131

Paris branch of, 472-474, 480

Parker sisters and, 116-118

restructuring of, 480

voucher system and, 100-101

Forsman, Holly,
201

Forth, Jane, 293

Fortune
, 193, 310

Fortuny, Mariano,
45

Foster, Julie, 336, 376

Foster-Fell, Jeremy, 15, 17, 239-241, 478

Foster-Fell, Judith, 239-241

Frame, Bob, 19, 20

Frances Gill Agency, 128, 197, 217

Frank, Geraldine, 250

Franken, Wallis, 303

Franklin, Evelyn, 110

Freedman, Bobby, 206, 207

Freeman, Einson, 55, 58

French, John, 164, 165-166, 167, 168

French Connection, The
, 306

French Mob, 255-256, 265, 300

approach of, 280-281

Fressange, Inès de la, 380-381

Freymann, Robert, 233-234

Frieberg, Agneta,
201
, 229

Frissell, Toni, 36, 77, 108, 432

Funny Face
, 112, 117, 134

Fürstenberg, Egon von, 272

Galas, Dominique, 467, 475

Galdi, Marcella, 374, 377, 398, 412

Gallant, Ara, 191, 330

Gambier, Colette, 277, 285, 286

Gander, Louise, 488

Garroway, Dave, 144

Gastel, Giovanni, 474

Gaulthier, Marilyn, 15, 489

Gay, Riccardo, 1, 6, 8, 15, 277, 278, 283, 286-289, 305, 306, 373, 374, 375, 377, 384, 386, 389, 390, 395-396, 398,
459
, 461-462