Of Beards and Men: The Revealing History of Facial Hair (39 page)

1
Quoted in Philip Norman,
John Lennon: The Life
(New York: HarperCollins, 2008), 446.

2
Eleanor Page, “Does a Beard Add to Manly Charm?”
Chicago Daily Tribune
, 20 July 1958, E1.

3
At the universities of West Germany in the early 1960s, youthful independence took a similar form, including pipe smoking, beards, and long scarves, see Eckard Holler, “The Burg Waldeck Festivals, 1964–1969,” in
Protest Song in East and West Germany since the 1960s
, ed. David Robb (Rochester, NY: Camden House, 2007), 97.

4
Joseph Deitch, “Chins Sprout on Campus,”
Christian Science Monitor
, 10 May 1958, 3.

5
Eric W. Hughes Jr., “Bearding the Corporation” (letter to the editor),
Nation
186 (3 May 1958): 380, 393.

6
“Chose to Keep His Beard and Lose His Job,”
Guardian
, 28 August 1962, 3.

7
“Beards—What Do
You
Think,”
Los Angeles Times
, 28 July 1957, L1, 20.

8
Siriol Hugh-Jones, “Shining Morning Faces,”
Times,
28 September 1960, iv.

9
“Beard Handsomer Now, Fellow Teachers Say,”
Los Angeles Times,
20 December 1963, 32.

10
“School Board Backs Educators,”
Los Angeles Times,
30 January 1964, H1.

11
Finot v. Pasadena City Bd. of Education
(California Court of Appeals, Second Dist., Div. Three, 250 Cal.App.2d 189 [1967]).

12
“Modern Beards Gain Esteem,”
Los Angeles Times
, 30 April 1967, L5. See also Damon Stetson, “Bearded Bus Drivers Travel in Good Company,”
New York Times
, 17 November 1969, 49.

13
William Zinsser, “Some Bristly Thoughts on Victory through Hair Power,”
Life
, 19 January 1968, 10.

14
“The Mustache Is Back,”
Newsweek
, 22 January 1968, 81.

15
Jerry Rubin,
We Are Everywhere
(New York: Harper and Row, 1971), 42.

16
Ibid., 41.

17
Quoted in Terry H. Anderson,
The Movement and the Sixties
(New York: Oxford University Press, 1995), 261.

18
Nick Thomas,
Protest Movements in 1960s West Germany
(Oxford: Berg, 2003), 116.

19
“Management Views Office Fashion,”
New York Times
, 14 July 1968, F17.

20
“The Hirsute Pursuit,”
Christian Science Monitor
, 3 May 1968, 20.

21
“Castro Regime Insists Students Shave Beards,”
New York Times
, 4 April 1968, 17.

22
Richard Atcheson,
The Bearded Lady: Going on the Commune Trip and Beyond
(New York: John Day Company, 1971), 12–13.

23
Associated Press, “Lennon’s Haircut,”
Washington Post
, 22 January 1970, C16.

24
“Paul Brietner on Golden Goal,”
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mlw7jMbdWes
.

25
Scott Murray, “On Second Thoughts: The 1974 World Cup Final,”
Guardian
, 19 September 2008,
www.theguardian.com/sport/blog/2008/sep/19/germanyfootballteam.holland
.

26
“Es Ist Idiotisch,”
Der Spiegel
, no. 43 (18 October 1976), 208,
http://www.spiegel.de/spiegel/print/d-41125199.html
. For a report of his affinity for leftist thought, see Henry Kamm, “Soccer Star a Hero to the German New Left,”
New York Times
, 20 July 1972, 15.

27
Peter Brügge, “Ich waere auch nach Griechenland gegangen”
Der Spiegel
, no. 35 (26 August 1974), 92–93,
http://www.spiegel.de/spiegel/print/d-41651442.html
.

28
Joachim Wachtel,
Das Buch vom Bart
(Munich: Wilhelm Heyne Verlag, 1981), 208 (trans. Shaydon Ramey, 2013.)

29
Hannah Charlton, “Introduction,” in
Che Guevara: Revolutionary and Icon
, ed. Trisha Ziff (New York: Abrams Image, 2006), 7; Michael Casey,
Che’s Afterlife
(New York: Vintage, 2009), 28–29.

30
Casey,
Che’s Afterlife
, 125–33.

31
Fidel Castro quoted in David Kunzle,
Che Guevera: Icon, Myth and Message
(UCLA Fowler Museum of Cultural History, 1997), 49.

32
New York Times
, 4 April 1968, 17. See also Kunzle,
Che Guevera,
49–50.

33
Richard W. Wertheim, “More Hair Now More Acceptable, but There Is a Cutoff Point,”
New York Times,
23 February 1971, 32.

34
Bruce Markusen,
Baseball’s Last Dynasty
(Indianapolis: Masters Press, 1998), 84–85.

35
Ibid., 171.

36
Arthur Daley, “Long and Short It”
New York Times
, 17 October 1972, 49.

37
Andreas Ballenberger,
Alles, was man nicht wissen muss: Das Lexikon der erstaunlichen Tatsachen
(Norderstedt: Books on Demand, 2009), 139 (trans. Maria Hickey, 2013). See image of the advertisement at
www.flickr.com/photos/retroads/2242113892/lightbox/
.

38
“Den Bart hochzujubeln passt nich zu mir,”
Berliner Morgenpost
, 9 February 2011,
http://www.morgenpost.de/newsticker/dpa_nt/infoline_nt/sport_nt/fussball_nt/article1751699/Den-Bart-hochzujubeln-passt-nicht-zu-mir.html
.

39
Mickey Kaus, “Washington Diarist: Facially Correct,”
New Republic
, 4 March 1991, 42.

40
J. Anthony Lukas, “As American as a McDonald’s Hamburger on the Fourth of July,”
New York Times Magazine
, 4 July 1971, 25.

41
Quoted in Janet Wasko,
Understanding Disney: The Manufacture of Fantasy
(Cambridge: Polity Press, 2001), 94.

42
Michael Marmo, “Employee’s Pursuit of the Hirsute: The Arbitration of Hair and Beard Cases,”
Labor Law Journal
, July 1979, 416–26.

43
Pacific Gas and Electric/International Brotherhood of Electrical Workers Review Committee Arbitration Case #34, September 17, 1976,
http://www.ibew1245.com/PGE-docs/RC-01405.pdf
[9-3-13].

44
James M. Maloney, “Suits for the Hirsute: Defending against America’s Undeclared War on Beards in the Workplace,”
Fordham Law Review
63 (May 1995): 1209.

45
Linda Matthews, “Justices Uphold Police Ban on Long Hair, Beards,”
Los Angeles Times
6 April 1976, B13.

46
Pranay Gupte, “Hair Codes for Police Upheld by Supreme Court,”
New York Times
, 6 April 1976, 1, 25.

47
Ibid.

48
Matthews, “Justices Uphold Police Ban,” B1.

49
Robert Hanley, “Freshly Shorn Officers Fight Crew-Cut Chief’s Beard Ban,”
New York Times
, 11 January 1977, 31.

50
Quoted in Maloney, “Suits for the Hirsute,” 1214.

51
Lowman v. Davies
(US Court of Appeals, Eigth Circuit, 704 F.2d 1044 [1983]);
Hottinger v. Pope County, Ark.
(US Court of Appeals, Eigth Circuit, 971 F.2d 127 [1992]).

52
Weaver v. Henderson
(US Court of Appeals, First Circuit, 984 F. 2d 11 [1993]).

53
Robert Bly,
Iron John
(Reading, MA: Addison Wesley, 1990), 6.

54
Ibid., 223–24.

55
Ibid., 227.

56
Barry Mclntyre, “Dobson Beards Image Makers,”
Guardian
, 13 March 2000, 8.

57
Jeanneney Jean Noel, “Barbes de 1853 et barbes de 1981,”
Le Monde
, 17 July 1987.

58
Yves Agnès, “La Barbe!”
Le Monde
, 31 August 1981.

59
David Hencke, “Hair Today—and Gone Tomorrow?”
Guardian,
5 February 1997, 5. See also Ed Lowther, “A History of Beards in the Workplace,”
BBC News Magazine
14 August 2013,
www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-23693316
.

60
Andrew Rawnsley,
Servants of the People: The Inside Story of New Labour
(London: Hamish Hamilton, 2000), 366.

61
“A Disney Dress Code Chafes in the Land of Haute Couture,”
New York Times,
25 December 1991, 1.

62
Irish Times,
20 January 1995, supplement 1.

63
Jason Garcia, “After Nearly 60 years, Disney to Let Theme-Park Workers Grow Beards,”
Orlando Sentinel
, 23 January 2012,
http://articles.orlandosentinel.com/2012-01-23/travel/os-disney-beards-20120123_1_theme-park-disney-spokeswoman-andrea-finger-walt-disney-world
.

1
“‘Amazed’: David Beckham Emporio Armani Underwear Billboard,”
Popcrunch
, 26 June 2008,
http://www.popcrunch.com/amazed-david-beckham-emporio-armani-underwear-billboard/.

2
“David Beckham Brings His Hotness to Town,”
Popsugar
, 19 June 2008,
http://www.popsugar.com/David-Beckham-Unveils-His-New-Armani-Ad-Macy-San-Francisco-1722146
.

3
Christopher Forth skillfully discusses this key historical development in modern society in
Masculinity in the Modern West: Gender, Civilization and the Body
(Houndmills: Palgrave Macmillan, 2008), 1–18, 201–2.

4
Mark Simpson, “Meet the Metrosexual,”
Salon
, 22 July 2002.
http://www.salon.com/2002/07/22/metrosexual/
.

5
David Coad,
The Metrosexual: Gender, Sexuality, and Sport
(Albany: SUNY Press, 2008), 184.

6
Marian Salzman, Ira Matathia, and Ann O’Reilly,
The Future of
Men (New York: Palgrave Macmillan, 2005), 60, 79.

7
Michael S. Rose complains that the metrosexual is “nothing more than a feminized man—effete, insecure, and socially emasculated—seeking to re-empower himself in a world in which the sexes are artificially converging.” Quoted in Coad,
Metrosexual
, 32.

8
Ellis Cashmore,
Beckham,
2nd ed. (Cambridge: Polity Press, 2004), 155.

9
Coad,
Metrosexual
, 197.

10
Salzman, Matathia, and O’Reilly,
Future of
Men, 76–77.

11
Peter Hartlaub, “A Brief Encounter with David Beckham,”
SFGate
, 22 June 2008.
http://www.sfgate.com/living/article/A-brief-encounter-with-David-Beckham-3279965.php
.

12
Michael Flocker,
The Metrosexual Guide to Style
(Boston: Da Capo, 2003), 108.

13
Peter Hennen,
Faeries, Bears, and Leathermen: Men in Community Queering the Masculine
(Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 2008),
9–
13. See also Allan Peterkin,
One Thousand Beards: A Cultural History of Facial Hair
(Vancouver: Arsenal Pulp, 2001), 128–39.

14
Flocker,
Metrosexual Guide to Style
, 111–12.

15
Morgan Spurlock,
Mansome
(quote at 44:45).

16
Rachel Felder, “A He-Wax for Him,”
New York Times
, 10 April 2012,
http://www.nytimes.com/2012/04/12/fashion/men-turn-to-bikini-waxing.html?_r=4&ref=style&
.

17
Manfred Dworschak, “‘Back, Crack and Sack’: Pubic Shaving Trend Baffles Experts,”
Spiegel Online International,
13 July 2009,
http://www.spiegel.de/international/zeitgeist/back-crack-and-sack-pubic-shaving-trend-baffles-experts-a-636711.html
.

18
Quoted in Helen Pidd, “Men Seeking Beckham Effect Go Wild for Boyzilians,”
Guardian
, 25 January 2008,
http://www.theguardian.com/uk/2008/jan/26/fashion.lifeandhealth
.

19
Ibid.

20
Tom Puzak, “The Rise of the Lumbersexual,”
GearJunkie
, 30 October 2014,
http://gearjunkie.com/the-rise-of-the-lumbersexual
. See also Puzak’s “Lumbersexuality: An Explanation,”
GearJunkie
, 28 November 2014,
http://gearjunkie.com/lumbersexuality-article
.

21
Denver Nicks, a self-described lumbersexual, declared, “If my beard is a trend-inspired attempt to reclaim a semblance of masculinity in a world gone mad, then so be it. It beats scrotum jokes.” See Nicks, “Confessions of a Lumbersexual,”
Time
, 25 November 2014,
http://time.com/3603216/confessions-of-a-lumbersexual
. Logan Rhoades insists that “Lumbersexual men have a CALCULATED look with the desire to be (and be seen) as rugged and the heteronormative version of ‘manly.’” See Rhoades, “Introducing the Hot New Trend among Men: ‘Lumbersexual,’”
BuzzFeed
, 13 November 2014,
http://www.buzzfeed.com/mrloganrhoades/introducing-the-hot-new-trend-among-men-lumbersexual#.vlVG8Rw3z
. Luke O’Neill argues that this “performative sort of manliness” is actually the continuation of the well-established hipster style. See O’Neill, “Lumbersexual Is Not a Thing,”
Bullett
, 14 November 2014,
http://bullettmedia.com/article/lumbersexual-thing
.

22
Hennen,
Faeries
, 9–13. Hennen’s work explores the modes and motives of the bears’ and leathermen’s hypermasculinity and finds evidence for and against the notion that these groups are challenging normative masculinity. Sean Cole also discusses the value of beards and body hair in the masculinizing strategies of gay men since the 1970s. See Cole, “Hair and Male (Homo) Sexuality,” in
Hair: Styling, Culture and Fashion
, ed. Geraldine Biddle-Perry and Sarah Cheang (Oxford: Berg, 2008), 81–95.

23
Tyler Gillespie, “My Weekend at Mr. Leather,”
Chicago Reader
, 28 May 2013,
http://www.chicagoreader.com/Bleader/archives/2013/05/28/my-weekend-at-international-mr-leather
.

24
Quoted in Caroline Davies, “Conchita Wurst Pledges to Promote Tolerance after Jubilant Welcome Home,”
Guardian
, 11 May 2014,
http://www.theguardian.com/tv-and-radio/2014/may/11/conchita-wurst-pledges-to-promote-tolerance
.

25
Rick Warren blog, 2013.
http://saddleback.com/visit/about/pastors/blog/rick-warren/2013/05/25/news-views-5-25-13
. See also Lauren Leigh Noske, “Duck Dynasty’ Stars to Speak at Saddleback Church,”
Gospel Herald
, 16 July 2013,
http://www.gospelherald.com/article/church/48423/duck-dynasty-stars-to-speak-at-saddleback-church-rick-warren-to-return-next-week.htm
.

26
Paul Boyer, “The Evangelical Resurgence in 1970s American Protestantism,” in
Rightward Bound: Making America Conservative in the 1970s
, ed. Bruce J. Schulman and Julian E. Zelizer (Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press, 2008), 41–43. See also Jeffery L. Sheler,
Prophet of Purpose: The Life of Rick Warren
(New York: Doubleday, 2009), 57–59.

27
Sheler,
Prophet of Purpose
, 64.

28
John D. Boy, “Icons of the New Evangelism: Why All the Little Beards?”
Killing the Buddha
, 6 September 2009.
http://killingthebuddha.com/mag/dogma/icons-of-the-new-evangelicalism/
.

29
Drew Magary, “What the Duck,”
GQ
, January 2014,
http://www.gq.com/entertainment/television/201401/duck-dynasty-phil-robertson?currentPage=1
.

30
Vi-an Nguyen, “Duck Dynasty’s Willie Robertson on Beard Maintenance, Life on Reality TV, and Fame”
Parade
, 20 March 2013,
http://parade.condenast.com/31704/viannguyen/20-duck-dynasty-willie-robertson-beard-maintenance-reality-tv-dealing-with-fame/
.

31
“The Secret behind the Beards,”
Outdoor Life Online
, 24 October 2007,
http://www.outdoorlife.com/blogs/strut-zone/2007/10/secret-behind-beards
.

32
Ibid.

33
“Why Do the Duck Dynasty Guys Have Beards?”
Fear the Beards
(2013),
http://www.fear-the-beards.com/why-do-duck-dynasty-guys-have-beards/
. See also “Secret behind the Beards.”

34
Phil Robertson has provoked controversy on several occasions for his outspokenly antigay sentiments and for his suggestion during a Georgia Christian retreat that men would be wise, when picking a wife, to chose a younger woman who carries a Bible, cooks meals, and is willing to pick your ducks. For this latter comment, see
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FDhCxER2fqM
.

35
Willie Robertson, foreword to
The Dude’s Guide to Manhood
(Nashville: Nelson Books, 2014), xi–xii.

36
Michael E. Nielsen and Daryl White, “Men’s Grooming in the Latter-day Saints Church: A Qualitative Study of Norm Violation,”
Mental Health, Religion and Culture
11 (December 2008): 821–24.

37
Donald B. Kraybill,
Renegade Amish: Beard Cutting, Hate Crimes, and the Trial of the Bergholz Barbers
(Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press, 2014), 11–12. See also Thomas J. Sheeran, “Ohio Beard Victim Testifies against Fellow Amish,” Associated Press,
Seattle Times
, 6 September 2012,
http://seattletimes.com/html/nationworld/2019082140_apusamishattacks.html
(accessed 28 January 2014). See also Erik Eckholm and Daniel Lovering, “Amish Renegades Are Accused of Bizarre Attacks on Their Peers,”
New York Times
, 17 October 2011,
http://www.nytimes.com/2011/10/18/us/hair-cutting-attacks-stir-fear-in-amish-ohio.html?_r=0
.

38
Kraybill,
Renegade Amish
, 67–78.

39
Quoted in James F. McCarthy, “Rival Amish Bishop Testifies He Feared ‘Cultlike’ Activities of Sam Mullet’s Clan,”
Cleveland Plain Dealer
, 6 September 2012,
http://www.cleveland.com/metro/index.ssf/2012/09/rival_amish_bishop_testifies_h_1.html
(accessed 28 January 2014).

40
Kraybill,
Renegade Amish,
84.

41
Erik Eckholm, “Amish Sect Leader and Followers Guilty of Hate Crimes,”
New York Times
, 21 September 2012, A14, 17. See also Trip Gabriel, “Amish Sect Leader Sentenced to 15 Years in Hair-Cutting Attacks,”
New York Times
, 9 February 2013, A11.

42
John Caniglia, “Federal Court Overturns Amish Beard-Cutting Convictions, Citing Erroneous Jury Instructions,”
Cleveland Plain Dealer
, 27 August 2014,
http://www.cleveland.com/court-justice/index.ssf/2014/08/federal_appeals_court_overturn.html
.

43
Chaim Potok,
The Chosen
(New York: Ballantine, 1967), 3.

44
“Beard and Shaving,” q.v.
Encyclopedia Judaica
, 2nd ed., vol. 3, ed. Fred Skolnik (Detroit: Thompson Gale, 2007).

45
Elliott Horowitz “The Early Eighteenth Century Confronts the Beard: Kabbalah and Jewish Self-Fashioning,”
Jewish History
8 (1994): 97. For a contemporary expression of this idea, see “Mystical Significance of Hair,”
Kabbalah Online
,
http://www.kabbalaonline.org/kabbalah/article_cdo/aid/750313/jewish/Mystical-Significance-of-Hair-Part-1.htm
.

46
Horowitz “Early Eighteenth Century,” 95–115.

47
Shnayer Z. Leiman, “Rabbinic Openness to General Culture in the Early Modern Period in Western and Central Europe,” in
Judaism’s Encounter with Other Cultures: Rejection or Integration?
ed. Jacob J. Schacter (Lanham: Rowman and Littlefield, 1997), 197. See also “Hirsch, Samson Raphael,” in
Encyclopedia of Judaism
, ed. Sara E. Karesh and Mitchell M. Hurvitz (New York: Facts on File, 2006), 213–14.

48
Michael K. Silber, “The Emergence of Ultra-Orthodoxy: The Invention of Tradition,” in
The Uses of Tradition: Jewish Continuity in the Modern Era,
ed. Jack Wertheimer (New York: Jewish Theological Seminary of America, 1992), 48–49.

49
Ibid., 52–61.

50
Artur Kamczycki, “Orientalism: Herzl and His Beard,”
Journal of Modern Jewish Studies
12 (March 2013): 90–92.

51
Ibid., 98.

52
Associated Press, “Hasidic Jew Fired from NYPD over Beard Length,” 10 June 2012 (Points of View Reference Center).

53
Meir Soloveichik, “Why Beards?”
Commentary,
February 2008, 43–44.

54
Sjoerd van Konigsveld, “Between Communalism and Secularism,” in
Pluralism and Identity: Studies in Ritual Behavior
, ed. Jan Platvoet and Karel van der Toorn (Leiden: E. J. Brill, 1995), 327–45. See also “Sha’r,”
Encyclopedia of Islam
, 2nd ed., ed. P. Bearman, T. Bianquis, C. E. Bosworth, E. van Donzel, and W. P. Heinrichs (Brill Online, 2014).

55
Steve Hendrix, “In the New Egypt, Beards Appear Where They Were Once Banned,”
Washington Post
, 17 July 2012,
http://www.washingtonpost.com/world/middle_east/in-the-new-egypt-beards-appear-where-they-were-once-banned/2012/07/17/gJQAWaEurW_story.html
.

56
Faegheh Shirazi, “Men’s Facial Hair in Islam: A Matter of Interpretation,”
in
Hair: Styling, Culture and Fashion
, ed. Geraldine Biddle-Perry and Sarah Cheang (Oxford: Berg, 2008), 118–20.

57
Raheem Salman, “Beard Ban Fuels Iraq Religious Debate,”
Ottawa Citizen
(Reuters), 24 June 2012, 48.

58
Dominique Soguel, “To Trim or Not to Trim? For Syrian Men, Beards Matter under Militant Rule,”
Christian Science Monitor
, 17 July 2014 (Academic Search Complete).

59
Dexter Filkins, “In a Fallen City, a Busy, Busy Barber”
New York Times,
13 November 2001, B3.

60
See Konigsveld, “Between Communalism and Secularism,” 340.

61
Muhammad Zakariya Kandhlawi,
The Beard of a Muslim and Its Importance
(Waterval Islamic Institute, n.d. [1976]),
http://www.sajedeen.org/resources/youth-section/173-the-beard-of-a-muslim-and-its-importance
. For a French translation, see Mohammad Zakariyyah,
L’importance de la barbe
(Saint-Pierre: Centre Islamique de la Réunion, 1984).

62
Notable examples are Syed Badi-ud-Din al-Rashidi,
The Status of Beard in Islam
, trans. and ed. M. Saleem Ahsan (Lahore: Dar-ul-Andlus, 2007); also Allamah Murtada al-Baghdadi,
The Islamic Perspective of the Beard
, translation of
Tahrim Halq Al-Lihyah
(Unlawfulness of the Shaving of the Beard) by Shaykh Mubashir Ali (Birmingham: Al-Mahdi Institute of Islamic Studies, 1999); reproduced at
http://www.al-islam.org/articles/islamic-perspective-of-the-beard
. Tallal Alie Turfe, an American Muslim businessman, offers his theological support for beards in
Children of Abraham: United We Prevail, Divided We Fall
(Indianapolis: iUniverse, 2013), 125–29.