Of Foreign Build (33 page)

On 11 November 2005, we completed our circumnavigation.

Checking in was a breeze. With our paperwork in order, we were soon free to experience Bundaberg and make plans.

‘If we don’t leave soon, I’m flying to England!’

Queensland was hot; I had trouble coping in the heat. As soon as I stepped from the shower, I was a bundle of sweat.

‘Why are you getting so hot and bothered?’ a neighbouring cruiser had said to me.

It wasn’t until later that they revealed they had air-conditioning!

The trip had been successful. But, we still had to coastal hop south, and it was now that things started to get tense.

We didn’t really know where we’d end up. We had family in southern NSW, so that was a good start. Mel was due to have her baby any day, so Wollongong was our first stop.

After Noel cheerily became a grandad, we sought the next safe harbour south, which was Greenwell Point. A small, quaint town that would open up seemingly impossible doors and steer us to further adventures that we hadn’t even dare dream of. But first we had to deal with the transition of being “home.”

‘I hate it; I just want to leave,’ I said.

Just one month back and my skin already crawled with an erratic, insatiable, itch. I felt heavy. I just didn’t fit, and I was already fed up with trying.

For the first month back, I was numb. Family issues had to be dealt with. Noel’s mum had moved into a home; this was an incredibly emotional time. Her house had to be cleared. Sixty-seven years worth of stuff had to be moved – what was the point? Memories? We all have memories. Should we keep the boxes of photos? What’s the point, they would only sit in another person’s attic, collecting dust and the perplexed questions of, ‘I wonder who that is?’

Noel and I planned to collect nothing further.

‘You can’t get away from bureaucracy,’ a friend wrote in an email back to me after I had been whinging about the crummy life back in Australia. I disagreed. Yes, we had had to check into countries. But that was it. The freedom I had held had been lost. I didn’t really understand why. We were still on the boat; we were not working for someone else. Our time was our own – but was it?

Family were nearby, and we were obliged to become involved. We wanted to, of course; we wanted to see them and catch up, so that wasn’t the problem. We both have wonderful families that had supported us fabulously. So what was going on? What was this chain I felt squeezing around my neck, the despair, the slight depressed feeling?

It was dealing with land people and what that meant: phones for a start (‘What? You
haven’t
got a mobile?’), taxes, supermarkets, curtains, divorce, carpets, arguments, garages, TV.

TV! Yikes, I hated it. The sadness overwhelmed me – murder, sexual assault, torture, war, floods, hurricanes, riots, politicians, lies, death, and destruction. We hadn’t watched TV for years; we rarely tuned into the news or purchased a newspaper. The head-in-the-sand theory had been a blessed relief from the woes of the world and some of the hideous people that inhabited it. But now it came back to us in full force,
everyone
watched the news and we couldn’t escape it. I felt like crying every time I heard it. I wanted to be an ostrich again. I wanted to get back to my simple way of life.

Within the first couple of weeks of our return, we discussed the purchase of a phone and a car. I refused to get a phone and did my best to avoid buying a car. I just didn’t want any of that stuff.

A month later it became worse: family issues across the globe dragged us down. We were stuck in a lovely port, but were at the whim of the wind, which was blowing against us – we felt trapped. We were rudderless within a storm of transition.

We had to decide which foot to put forward, the left or right. We had to become proactive and do something for us; which was funny, as we’d been doing something for us for the past nine years! Perhaps enjoying life had made us selfish.

We started to think logically. We had years of sea-time under our belts, so we decided to put that to good use. We tried to research what courses were available, but it was January and everyone was on holiday. Our life was in limbo.

We did start to settle in, but continued to feel out of sync and kilter, even with new friends. I had to turn things around in my head. I had to see that this wasn’t the end of the adventure; it was the beginning of a new chapter.

Finally, we got back onto the right track. I started to enjoy the fact that we weren’t moving all the time. I liked knowing where the shops were. Focussing on the positives helped and, really, what had we to complain about? We were healthy, happy, and had time to plan more escapades.

We enrolled in a full time, six week, six days’ a week maritime course. During which, I did so well, I was asked to teach the following class!

We sold our house in England and purchased a little cottage in Greenwell Point, NSW. We sold
Mariah
. We never thought we would, but we started to enjoy land-life: a bathroom, a full- length mirror, grass, and ‘good mornings’ from friendly town folk.

We joined the Marine Rescue, and with further training we became skippers. I was their first woman skipper. I had some issues with some of the crewmembers, but I was much stronger than they realised. I’d been dealing with testosterone-fuelled comments on boats for years; it was water off a duck’s back. The guys that chose to come out with me on the boats I valued immensely.

I could now recall conversations with people on board
Mariah
that had suggested Noel should be the one to bring us in to ports, saying, in other words, they did not think I was up to it. When this had happened, I remembered shedding some private tears. People I deeply respected had judged me. I had felt my confidence drain away; I had wanted to give up, the fight felt too hard. Now I realised that these people had helped me. I had proven my abilities; I had worked my way through the doubts.

I am a fighter, and with my experience on
Mariah
,
I had completed successful rescues in violent weather. I was now able to pass on my knowledge to students, witnessing them blossom in exciting maritime careers. I had learned enough to help others. I was a professional, and when Noel and I went on to study for our Master IV course (qualifying us to skipper vessels up to eighty metres), I was chuffed to receive many compliments from my tutors about my work. During our boat practicals, guess who did the best boat handling of the day?

I had become a fully trained commercial skipper. I was a qualified Marine Engine Driver. In fact, I did so well in our class (twelve men and one woman – me), I received joint top-of-the-class award.

It was then I was asked to teach maritime classes. I learned a lot more from students willing to share their knowledge. Of course, I had those students who couldn’t be taught by a woman. But they were few and far between. I learned something from every person on those courses and not just about boats.

I had also witnessed the students develop faith in me. Once I had proven myself to them, I gained a remarkable amount of respect that made my teaching experience something I would return to time and again.

Back on land, we read about how dangerous things were while cruising – in Borneo you could no longer play with the orangutans, crocodiles prevented swimming in Panama, cruisers could not go through the canal without an expensive agent. I wondered how true it all was. From experience, I figured it was exaggerated semi-truths. I had learned not to let other people’s enjoyment of creating fear affect me.

I had learned a hell of a lot. Leading a water gypsy’s life for almost nine years changed me in many ways. I have become more open minded. I practice forgiveness, remembering that I never really knew what is going on in other people’s lives; a curt remark on a first meeting may not be rudeness, it maybe shyness or fear.

I have learned to think more of myself, my abilities, my body, and my personalities (yes, there are a few). I’ve learned to trust myself. I’ve unbound my emotional corset. I am getting to know
me
.

On the flip side, in other ways I have become bigoted, frustrated, and sometimes I have short-sighted, frighteningly fierce opinions that I cannot seem to control at times; my views on kindness, evil, mistreatment, and fairness. I thought I would be stronger, but at times I think I’m weaker. Any kind of sadness, whatever shape or form in this world, cripples me emotionally.

As for Noel and I, we are unlike most couples we meet. There is a deep unwavering respect. Our loyalty to each other sometimes overwhelms me. Our trust is remarkable; we’ve been responsible for each other’s lives. That does something to you, it really does. We may not be doe-eyed at each other all the time, but the bond between us is mind-blowing.

I am older, wiser; I’ve been introduced to middle-age (isn’t
that
a bundle of fun), but I’m proud of my grey hairs. I have earned every single one of them.

Perhaps it is not about finding where you fit, but with whom you fit with. Well, that certainly applies to us. It has been fifteen years since I started this book. Noel and I have been married more than sixteen years now. We sailed the world, as you now know. But since then we have become qualified mariners, we purchased another sail boat in San Francisco, and spent two years bringing her home and importing her into Australia.

We bought and sold a house in Australia. We trekked part of the Bicentennial National Trail in Australia with five horses, a tent, and just the two of us for an incredible, eye-opening nine weeks.

I found a depth of fulfilment I didn’t know existed. I’ve found that I can choose happiness.

Some time in Europe with my immediate family is our next plan and maybe a canal boat.

The ups and downs of the journey are worth it. Life is for living, being brave, and taking chances. We’ve had our hearts broken with farewells, we’ve been excited beyond belief, but we still haven’t found “home.” Maybe we will wander all our lives; it’s just in our makeup. The point is, home is with each other, wherever that is on our planet.

Life at sea is a love-hate relationship, a roller coaster. The journey becomes etched on your skin. We learned something new each day, about sailing and ourselves. Sailing the oceans isn’t easy, but offers magnificent rewards with perseverance. We whinged about the effort, but secretly we were glad, because if it was easy, everyone would be doing it.

Now, it’s a song, a drumbeat, a waft of salt air, or heady diesel fumes that activates our memories and transports us back to those days on
Mariah
; the chug of a marine engine is enough to spark the tiniest sense of sea-sickness, that bout of anxiousness prior to a voyage – that unmatched excitement.

This kind of journey was an experience as a whole, not just hops from one place to the next – it was the preparation, research, learning, trying new things, romance, escapade, the rich harvest of adventures together.

And, yes, it is about the good yarn at the end of it all.

1998

8 August 1998 – became the proud owners of
Mariah II

17 August – Brisbane

6 November – Moreton Bay

1 December – Brisbane and ‘Jack’s becoming quite the apprentice, changing filters and oil, soldering wires, helping me fit “Wander.”’

1999

25 January – Coxswain’s course

19 June – left Coffs Harbour, NSW, for first attempt to Fiji

1 August – ‘doubt we will traverse an ocean’ – back in Mooloolaba

2000

10 Aug 2000 – new engine, water tanks fuel tanks and headed north to Darwin

6 September – Darwin

14 September – left Darwin, Australia (two days after I received my Australian residency!)

17 September – Ashmore reef – finally free!

20 September – received our first ever Weatherfax!

24 September – arrived into Bali harbour

10 October – Kangean Island

14 October – Borneo

23 October – Crossed equator for the first time

31 October – Nongsa Point marina

9 November – departed Lumut

14 November – Langkawi

9 December – Ko Rok Nok

12 December – arrived Phi Phi Don

19 December – Yacht Haven, Phuket

2001

18 January – left Thailand

19 January – traversed the Nicobars and lightning storm

24 January – Noel wrote in the log, ‘hey, we’re in 3,800 metres of water! – feel better?!’

27 January – Sri Lanka

14 February – St. Valentine’s Day, arrived at Maldives

24 February – Noel wrote in the log, ‘someone has stolen the moon.’

3 March – arrived in Oman

21 March – arrived Eritrea (Massawa)

4 April – scampered into Marsa Halaib – strong winds

10 April – left Marsa Halaib

11 April – Ras Banias, another hidey hole (bilge/water/vomit)

12 April –
Solmates
arrived and did their unique flour delivery!

14 April – left Ras Banias, stopped at Fury Bay

15 April – arrived Lui Lu – safe haven in strong winds

19 April – anchored at Marsa Imbarak taking shelter

21 April – El Quesire anchorage – taking shelter

22 April – Safaga at last

30 April – arrived Suez into sand storm

5 May – on second leg of canal and out to the Med

7 May – Larnaca Cyprus

1 June – left Cyprus

3 June – now on a course for Rhode Island (Lindos)

12 June – Kaio, Greece, small beautiful harbour

14 June – left Kaio en route to Kalamata to meet my sisters

27 June – left Kalamata Marina

28 June – I found the Snickers bars and kept eating them! (Noel hides my chocolate).

30 June – arrived in Bangara, end of Messina straits

1 July – left Bangara

2 July – arrived Lipari (marina for shower treat)

5 July – arrived at Olbia, North West Sardinia

11 July – Cala de Volpe

13 July – Ajaccio in Corsica (France whoo hoo)

23 July – arrived Golfe de Fos – start the French canals

October finished French canals

Remainder of
2001
and all
2002
we stayed in England recouping the coffers.

2003

10 June – left Shenley

12 July – Falmouth harbour

4 August – Bay of Biscay

6 August – Muros, Spain

20 August – Leixious Portugal

23 August – anchored at Barra de Aveiro, thick fog followed us in

1 September – my new niece is born, Samantha Louise Lawrence

2 September – arrived Lisbon marina

9 September – anchored Caiscais (pronounced Cashkysh)

5 October – Sines (our tenant in our UK house gives notice)

8 October – arrived Casablanca

10 October – left Casablanca – note in log: ‘lots of boats tonight, I especially like the ones that feel it necessary to turn off their navigation lights as they approach us!’

12 October – arrived Agadir

15 October – Port Naos, Lanzarote, met
Frodo
here

17 October – Rubicon Marina, Mum and Dad holiday with us

2 November – my new nephew is born, Efezino Owhe

20 November – Grand Canaries – Noel’s brother Den passes away

27 November – hit a whale

1 December – Isle de Sal in the Cape Verdes. Noel’s sister-in-law, Joy, passes away.

10 December – left Cape Verdes for Barbados

27 December – landfall Barbados after 17 days! Arrival into Speightstown

30 December – moved to Bridgetown anchorage after having to move in middle of night (boat on rocks!)

2004

29 January – farewell to Barbados and
Frodo

30 January – St Lucia

12 February – Rodney Bay

19 February – left Martinique

21 February – anchored in beautiful port of Portsmouth, Dominica

28 February – en route to Guadaloupe – only 20 miles away

6 March – leaving Guadaloupe for Puerto Rico

Passed Monseratt, volcano spitting ash

10 March – anchored at San Juan

13 April – anchored at Mayaguana Bahamas, awaiting front to pass

20 April – left Mayaguana (didn’t check in)

24 April – arrived at Lake Worth, Palm Beach, Florida and nearly sunk the boat!

30 April – Mum and Dad spent time with us

Completed The Great Loop well into 2004

During the rest of
2004
(from October) we were in Alabama and did the trip to the UK to sort out our house.

2005

5 March – what a year! – leaving Demopolis Alabama

6 March – rang ‘Tash (
Frodo
) in Holland, they’ve had twin girls (Debby and Kim)

17 March – short run to Tampa

26 March – Florida Keys

27 March – Dry Tortugas

30 March -Cuba, Havana

6 April – anchored in San Pedro Bay, South Cuba, awaiting better weather

9 April – Caymens at last (birds visited, died!) Find Dad

16 April – Jamaica, anchored for one night – Dad a real trooper

21 April – San Blas

24 April – Colon Panama, greeted by Barry & Judy on
Theta
with a heavenly breakfast

28 April – all aboard
Theta
as line-handlers and practice run through the canal

4 May – Colin arriving into Panama to do transit with us on
Mariah

13 May – leaving Balboa

21 May – crossed the equator for the second time

22 May – Galapagos

28 June -Fatu Hiva

11 June – Daniels Bay

15 July – Tuamotos

21 July – Pape’ete Tahiti, Melanie spent four weeks on board with us

6 September – Aitutaki

14 September – Palmerston Island

22 September – Niue

27 September – Tonga

21 October – left Fiji for New Caledonia (arrived at Fiji between 11/10 and 20/10 – this part of log book damaged!)

28 October – Noumea marina

11 November – arrived in Bundaberg QLD and completed our circumnavigation

2006

January – moored at Greenwell Point, NSW

26th January – Matilda Jade was born, Noel’s a grandad

October – sailed south to Moruya to attend Master 5 course

December – bought house in Greenwell Point

2007
– sad time, as we sold
Mariah
and a happy time, as we started a new chapter.