On the Shores of the Mediterranean (58 page)
Read On the Shores of the Mediterranean Online
Authors: Eric Newby
Ramla (Er-Ramleh) 322
Ravenna 56
Ray, Joël 533
Reade, Sir Thomas 444
Rephaim Valley 323
Rhodopis 355
Rhoetum 226, 228, 278
Ritchie, General 405
Rivery, Aimée Dubucq de 260, 266
Rocco, Father 41–2
Rohlfs, Dr Gerhard 473n
Roldán, Pedro 497
Romanus II 306
Rommel, Erwin 376, 392, 400, 401, 404, 405, 406
Rothschild, Baron de 322
Rousanou, monastery at Meteora 201
Rozafat, fortress of, at Shkodër 147
Ruad
see
Aradus
Rubenids, the 303
Ruhl, Henri 522
Rum, Sultanate of 298
Rumi, Celahedin 298
Sabaratha 414
Sahara, the 353, 409, 419, 433, 435–48, 450, 465, 467–8
St Augustine 443
St Barlaam, monastery at Meteora 201–2
St Dysmus 342
St Eleutherus 169–70
St Helena 342, 346, 365
St Longinus 346
St Luke 291
St Mark 344, 500
St Nicholas, jaw bone of 296
St Paul 169, 291, 304, 355, 359
St Philip, well of 323
St Theodore 65
St Vincent de Paul, cathedral of 435–6
Salonika 190n, 205, 206, 207, 269, 270
San Gennaro 36, 46, 46n
San Giorgio Maggiore, Venice 63
San Gregorio Armeno, Naples 41
San Gregorio, Seville 501, 503, 509
San Marco, Venice 66
San Martino, Certosa, Naples 41
San Remigio, festa of 8–9
Sancho IV 490
Sand Seas: Calanascio, Great, Rebiana, Murzuk 384, 394
Sandys, George 286
Sansovino, Jacopo 65, 67
Santa Chiara, church, Naples 46
Santa Lucia
church, Naples 29, 31, 33, 36
Santa Maria della Salute, Venice 63, 72
Santa Maria Piedigrotta, church, Naples 28
Santorin 408
Sarandë 155–6
Scamozzi, Vincenzo 67
Schliemann, H. 229, 275, 276, 278
Scipio Africanus 427, 428, 428n
Scipio, Professor Lucius 271
Scutari
see
Shkodër
Scylax of Caryanda 273–4
Sedd el-Bahr, castle at Cape Helles 223, 224
Seleucids, the 325, 326n
Seleucus 285
Selim III 259, 263
Seneferu 368
Selinus
see
Gazipa a
Seljuks 298–9, 301, 303
Septimus Severus 327, 411
Sestos 227, 228
Seville 492, 493, 495–519
simulacros imagines
497
Sfax 420–5
Shelomo Zalman Beharan 338, 340
Shkodër 119, 123, 126, 136, 137–8, 139, 141–50, 152, 156, 184
Sidi Abd el-Kader el Djlani, shrine Tozeur 447
Sidi ben Ali Harazem, tomb of 472
Sidi Bou Said 425–6, 433, 438
Sidon 354, 430, 517
Sigeum (Cape Yenisher) 225, 274, 275, 278
Silifke 302
Simon Bar-Cochbar 322, 327
Sinai 199, 200, 200n
Sinan 233
Skala 213–15
Skete
of the Holy Ghost, at Meteora 198
Skrobucha, H. 200n
Slovenes, the 15, 90, 96, 97–8
Smollett, T. 14
Solomon 322, 325, 327, 328, 331, 332, 333, 358
Spaccanapoli, Naples 36, 41, 43, 46n
Spanish Succession, War of 41
Spartans, the 227, 228
Stambul, Eski (Alexandria Troas) 283, 286
Stefani 213
Strabo 91, 274, 278, 288, 294, 360
Sufis 446–7
Suez Canal 352
Suleiman II 263
Suleiman Pasha 147
Suleiman the Magnificent 251–2, 327, 328
Suleiman 492
Suli 175, 176–89
Suliots, the 176–89
Sumner-Boyd, Hilary 237
Sylvester II 481
Tabarka 440–2
Tarabulus
see
Tripoli
Tarifa 489, 490, 493
Tarik 491–2
Tarsus 304, 311
Tel Aviv 316, 321, 323
Tempe, Vale of 177, 205–7
Tenedos 284, 286
Tepelenë 153, 183, 186
Theofano 306
Thera
see
Santorin
Thermopylae 206
Thessaloniki (Salonika) 205
Thessaly 177, 183, 184, 186, 191, 193, 194, 204, 205, 207, 308
Thrace 190n, 219, 253, 277, 285, 307
Thracians, the 93
Thugga 444
Tiepolo, Giambattista 78
Tilsit, Peace of 185
Tirali, Andrea 65–6
Tischendorf, Constantine von 200, 200n
Tito, Marshal 130, 133
Titograd 123, 125, 148
Titus 169, 326
Tobruk 375–90, 391–2, 393, 397, 398, 405–6
Toledo 491, 493
Tompkins, Peter 371–2
Topkapi Saray 248, 249–72, 459
Toprakkale 305–6, 309, 310
Torres, Jacques 533–4
Tosks, the 137, 183
Tours, Battle of 492
Tozeur 445–6
Trajan 302, 409
Transfiguration, monastery of the at Meteora 201
Travers, Susan 403
Treviso 71, 76, 77, 78
Trieste 35, 36, 88, 90, 92, 96, 101, 106, 401
Trigh el-Oudiana 447
Trigh Capuzzo 385, 386, 397
Trikkala 184, 190, 190n, 204, 206
Triangolo della Morte, Naples 25
Tripoli (Tarabalus) 35, 305, 375
Troilus 276
Troisgros restaurant 86
Jean 533
Troy 220, 224, 225, 229, 273–94
Tunis 35, 410, 412, 414, 415, 416–26, 433
Tunisia 330, 412, 413–48, 468, 480, 481, 526
Turkey 217–36
Turks, the 14, 42, 111, 118, 119, 120, 147, 148, 161, 164–5, 179, 180, 181, 188, 190, 191–2, 210, 323, 325, 345, 379
Tuscany 3–15, 535–9
Tyre 428, 430, 431, 517
Umayyad Caliph 331, 464, 491–3
Utrecht, Treaty of 41
Uvecik 275
Vasquez, Juan Baptista 497
Vassiliki, Mme 187, 188–9
Veblen, T. 84
Vélez, José Paz 497
Veliz 180–1
Venice 51–80, 83, 85, 88, 90, 94, 112, 165
Venice-Simplon-Orient Express 83–8
Veneto 65, 78, 88
Venezia Giulia 88
Vergé, Roger 532
Verrocchio 94
Vienna, Congress of 70
Villas: in Tuscany 3–4
Capra Vicenza 77
Duodo Melicki
ora
Zoppolate 77
Gatterburg
ora
Volpi 77
Mal-contenta 77
Manin, Passariano 78
Stra 78
Casa Quaglia, Paese 78
Virgil 20, 29, 91, 438
Virpasar 123–5
Vlachs (Vlakhi, Vlakhiots) 183, 191, 192, 194, 205
Vourgareli 180
Wadi el-Werd 323
Walid I 491
Walsh, Robert 232
Waugh, Evelyn 130
Whirling Dervishes 298
Wilhelm II 328
Windisch-Graetz, family of 107
Wood, Robert 288
Wortley Montague, Lady Mary 287
Xerxes 206, 227, 274
Yeni Saray
see
Topkapi Saray
Yenisher
see
Larissa
Yousef ben Tachfin 465, 493
Yugoslavs 90, 127, 133, 137, 162
Yürüks, the 299–300, 302, 310–15
Zalonga 180
Rock of 181
Zara 53
Zama, battle of 427
Zendrini, Bernardino 54
Zog, King 125, 130, 136–7
I wish to take this opportunity to express my warmest thanks to the following: Joan Bailey of the London Library; Ann Etherington, who had the unenviable job of typing the book from my manuscript; Adrian House for his constant encouragement and constructive criticism; and all the other members of the Harvill Press – literally the whole lot – for their help. Also to Joy Law.
I should also like to thank the Tourist Boards of Italy, Turkey, Israel, Egypt, Tunisia and Morocco for their help and hospitality, and Colonel Muammar Qathafi for inviting us to be his guests in Libya.
E.N.
ERIC NEWBY
was born in London in 1919 and was educated at St Paul’s School. In 1938, he joined the four-masted Finnish barque
Moshulu
as an apprentice and sailed in the last Grain Race from Australia to Europe, by way of Cape Horn. During World War II, he served in the Black Watch and the Special Boat Section. In 1942, he was captured and remained a prisoner-of-war until 1945. He subsequently married the girl who helped him escape, and for the next fifty years, his wife Wanda was at his side on many adventures. After the war, his world expanded still further – into the fashion business and book publishing. Whatever else he was doing, Newby always travelled on a grand scale, either under his own steam or as the Travel Editor for the
Observer
. He was made a CBE in 1994 and was awarded the Lifetime Achievement Award of the British Guild of Travel Writers in 2001. Eric Newby died in 2006.
From the reviews of
On the Shores of the Mediterranean
:
‘A new book by Eric Newby is something of an event. A superb reporter, Mr Newby paints marvellously detailed portraits. He has an unrivalled eye for the ridiculous and, although this is essentially a serious book, it is frequently very, very funny. He is an extremely elegant writer, beautifully paced and rhythmic … For Newby admirers, this particular event is a memorable one, and it should also recruit a lot of new admirers to his ranks’
Daily Telegraph
‘Keeping up with Eric Newby, every breathless puff and pant of it, is worth it all the way. It is a mark of Newby’s magnetism that you are so willingly carried along, at such tremendous pace. He takes a deep breath and delivers a massive lungful of history, geography, opinion, experience and sheer fun … [He] leaves you gasping in gratitude and wonder’
Observer
‘A splendid book … With its generosity, quirkiness, encyclopaedic love of facts, wisdom, humour, sense of history and change, this is a lot more than even the very best of travel books. Its author is a Ulysses, the book an Odyssey’
Guardian
‘Over the years Mr Newby has – quite rightly – established himself as one of the sharpest, funniest and most boisterously entertaining of all travel writers … We find Newby at his incomparable best’
Sunday Telegraph
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Harper
Press
An imprint of HarperCollins
Publishers
77–85 Fulham Palace Road
Hammersmith
London W6 8JB
This Harper
Press
edition published 2011
First published by Harvill Press in 1984
Revised edition published by Picador in association with
William Collins Sons & Co. Ltd in 1985
Copyright © Eric Newby 1984, 1985
Illustrations © Jonathan Newby 1984
Map of the Mediterranean by Freda Titford