Pickled: From Curing Lemons to Fermenting Cabbage, the Gourmand's Ultimate Guide to the World of Pickling (19 page)

In the traditional Thai version of this salad, cooks use fish sauce instead of soy sauce and use ground pork, shrimp, and/or chicken for the meat. Thais also are likely to use dried “rat dropping” chilies that they crumble into the bowl. Mighty hot
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YIELDS 4 SERVINGS

 

 4 ounces cellophane, or bean thread, noodles, softened in hot water for 20 minutes

 1 (6-ounce) package soy “chicken” strips, optional

 
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cup thinly sliced scallions

 
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cup fresh cilantro leaves

 1–2 tablespoons crushed red peppers

 2 tablespoons lime juice

 2 tablespoons soy sauce

 1 tablespoon chopped Pungent Pickled Garlic (see
Part II
)

 Sugar to taste

1. Drain the softened noodles and cut them into serving pieces. Put the noodles, “chicken” strips if using, scallions, cilantro leaves, and crushed red peppers into a serving bowl.
   
2. Mix together the lime juice, soy sauce, and pickled garlic and toss with the salad ingredients, add sugar to taste, then serve.
   

Called “glass,” “cellophane,” or “bean thread” noodles, this Asian pasta is made from the starch of mung beans, and when dried, the noodles are so brittle and tough that when you cut them—and the cleanest way is using scissors—they may fly around, so hold them over the sink. They are easier to cut when wet, although when they are wet they are also somewhat gelatinous. Unless you plan to use the softened noodles in a soup, drain them before using them in other dishes.

 

 
You could also make this panini with corned beef. Pumpernickel bread is another option that you should try
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YIELDS 1 SERVING

 

 5 slices pastrami

 2 slices Swiss cheese

 2 slices rye bread

 
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cup Sauerkraut (see
Part II
)

 2 tablespoons Russian dressing

1. Preheat a panini press. Pile the pastrami and Swiss cheese onto 1 slice of bread. Top with Sauerkraut, and then spread the Russian dressing on the other piece of rye bread before placing on top of the Sauerkraut.
   
2. Place on panini press, close lid, and cook for 3–5 minutes.
   
3. Remove from press, cut in half, and serve warm.
   

In the case of these two closely linked deli sandwiches, it’s actually the pickle itself that usually defines which is which. A Reuben is a pastrami or corned beef sandwich with sauerkraut, while a Rachel has coleslaw.

 

If you can’t find quinoa at your local grocery store, you can substitute couscous. Quinoa is a grain, but couscous, like pasta, is made from semolina flour. Follow the cooking times on the package when making this recipe
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YIELDS 2 SERVINGS

 

 1 tablespoon olive oil

 
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small onion, chopped

 
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teaspoon ground cinnamon

 
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teaspoon ground coriander

 
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teaspoon ground turmeric

 Pinch red chili flakes

 1 cup vegetable broth

 1 small garlic clove, peeled and minced

 
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cup quinoa

 
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can red kidney beans, rinsed and drained

 
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can black beans, rinsed and drained

 1 Roma tomato, chopped

 2 tablespoons chopped Preserved Lemons (see
Part II
)

 Salt and pepper to taste

1. Place a skillet over medium heat. Once it is heated, add the olive oil and onion. Cook for 5–7 minutes, stirring occasionally. The onion should be soft and just starting to turn golden. Add the cinnamon, coriander, turmeric, and chili flakes. Stir continually for 1 minute and then add the vegetable broth.
   
2. Use your spatula to loosen any spices of onion that may have stuck to the skillet. Add the garlic, quinoa, and beans. Reduce the heat to low, cover the skillet, and simmer for 15 minutes. The water should be mostly absorbed.
   
3. Add the tomato and Preserved Lemons. Stir and cook for 5 more minutes, or until the water is evaporated, season with salt and pepper to taste. Fluff with a fork and serve immediately.
   

Barbecued pork also works well in this dish. The pickled mustard greens add an extra something special to this savory recipe for an interesting juxtaposition of color and texture
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YIELDS 4 SERVINGS

 

 4 ounces wide rice noodles

 1 cup mung bean sprouts

 
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cup chicken stock or broth

 1 teaspoon soy sauce

 2 tablespoons oil for stir-frying

 1 cup cooked beef, shredded

 
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teaspoon chili paste

 2 tablespoons Burmese-Style Mustard Greens (see
Part II
)

1. Soak the rice noodles in hot water for at least 15 minutes to soften. Drain well. Blanch the mung bean sprouts by plunging briefly into boiling water. Drain well.
   
2. Combine the chicken broth and soy sauce. Set aside.
   
3. Add oil to a preheated wok or skillet. When oil is hot, add the noodles. Stir-fry briefly, then add the sauce. Mix with the noodles and add the shredded beef. Stir in the chili paste and the Burmese-Style Mustard Greens. Add the mung bean sprouts. Mix through and serve hot.
   

This is a method for making barbecued ribs in your oven instead of the grill so you can make them anytime of the year. Of course, you don’t have to save your ribs (and your pickles) for the fall and winter. These ribs are just as delicious fired low and slow over indirect heat on a grill
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YIELDS 2 SERVINGS

 

 2 tablespoons paprika

 1 clove garlic, peeled and minced

 2 teaspoons salt

 1 teaspoon sugar

 1 teaspoon pepper

 1 teaspoon dried oregano

 1 teaspoon dried thyme

 1 slab baby back pork ribs

 
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cup barbecue sauce

 3 tablespoons Caramelized Red Onion Relish (see
Part II
)

1. Preheat oven to 350°F.
   
2. Mix dry ingredients together in a bowl, and then rub the mixture on both sides of the ribs. Place ribs in a roasting pan, cover, and bake for 2 hours.
   
3. Remove cooked ribs from oven. In a small bowl, mix together barbecue sauce and Caramelized Red Onion Relish. Brush on the barbecue sauce mixture, and bake uncovered for 10 minutes.
   
4. Cut slab in half to serve two.
   

BANH MI

Banh Mi are an example of the legacy left by the French on Vietnamese cuisine: crusty French rolls stuffed with pickled Asian vegetables. This is a great way to use up leftover roasted chicken, but you could use any filling you like, such as pork, shrimp, tofu, or even fried eggs
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YIELDS 4 SERVINGS

 

 2 tablespoons canola oil

 
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pound beef skirt steak or hanger steak, cut into thin strips

 
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teaspoon salt

 
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teaspoon pepper

 
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cup sliced white onion

 4 crusty French rolls (or 1–2 baguettes sliced into 4 sandwich-length segments)

 Mayonnaise, to taste

 Soy sauce or Maggi seasoning

 2 tablespoons Pungent Pickled Garlic (see
Part II
)

 1 small cucumber, peeled and seeded and cut into spears

 5 cilantro sprigs, roughly chopped

 
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cup Vegetable Medley (see
Part II
)