Pie and Pastry Bible (44 page)

The gelatin mixture must be hot because the purée is cold from the refrigerator; the heat of the mixture keeps the gelatin from setting prematurely.

Egg whites are usually folded in at the end of preparing a mixture to maintain the airy texture, but in this filling they are folded in before the cream because the cold temperature of the cream might cause the mixture to set prematurely.

UNDERSTANDING

Compared to the raspberry chiffon filling, this filling has about 9 tablespoons more purée because strawberries are less intense. This extra purée, together with the 3 tablespoons of water for the gelatin, equals ¾ cup more liquid, necessitating ¾ teaspoon more gelatin. Only half the amount of sugar used for the raspberries is necessary because strawberries are so much sweeter.

If the strawberries are at the height of their season and a bright red, no food color is necessary.

RASPBERRY CHIFFON PIE

T
his filling captures the lilting/lush freshness of raspberries without being overpowering. The secret is adding Italian meringue, the super-smooth and billowy meringue made with a hot sugar syrup. Fresh raspberries adorn the top and provide juicy texture and more raspberry flavor.

SERVES: 8
INGREDIENTS	MEASURE	WEIGHT
	VOLUME	OUNCES	GRAMS
Sweet Nut Cookie Tart Crust, made with almonds, for a 9-inch pie (page 59), prebaked, or Crisp Meringue Shell for a 10-inch pie (page 575), baked	1 generous cup	10.75 ounces	307 grams
Raspberry Chiffon frozen raspberries, with no added sugar	3 cups (one 12-ounce bag)	12 ounces	340 grams
freshly squeezed lemon juice	1 teaspoon	•	5 grams
sugar	cup	2.3 ounces	66 grams
heavy cream	½ liquid cup	4 ounces	116 grams
Light Italian Meringue gelatin	1¼ teaspoons	•	4 grams
water	3 tablespoons, divided	•	•
sugar, preferably superfine	7 tablespoons, divided	3 ounces	87 grams
2 large egg whites	¼ liquid cup	2 ounces	60 grams
cream of tartar	¼ teaspoon	•	•
Fresh Raspberry Topping fresh raspberries	4 cups	1 pound	454 grams
powdered sugar	•	•	•

EQUIPMENT

A 9-inch pie pan, or a 10-inch pie pan if using the meringue shell; optional: a number 7 star pastry tube and a pastry bag or a reclosable quart-size freezer bag

Make the dough (page 59) or meringue shell (page 575). Roll and shape the dough and transfer it to the pan and prebake it (see pages 50-54) or pipe the meringue into the pan and bake it (see page 621).

MAKE THE RASPBERRY FILLING

Chill a small bowl for the whipped cream.

The night before (in the refrigerator) or several hours ahead (at room temperature):
In a strainer suspended over a deep bowl, thaw the raspberries completely. (To speed thawing, place in an oven with a pilot light.) Press on the berries to force out all the juice. There should be about ½ cup of juice.

In a small saucepan over medium heat, boil the raspberry juice, stirring often, until it is reduced to 2 tablespoons. (Or microwave the juice on high power in a 1-cup heatproof measure, lightly sprayed with nonstick vegetable spray, until reduced to 2 tablespoons.) Pour it into a lightly oiled heatproof cup to stop the cooking and to cool.

In a food processor, purée the raspberries. To remove all the seeds, pass them through a food mill fitted with the fine disc, or a fine strainer, suspended over a medium bowl. You should have ½ liquid cup of purée. Stir in the reduced raspberry syrup and the lemon juice. There should be about
cup of purée (5 ounces/145 grams). Stir in the sugar. Let the raspberry purée cool.

In the chilled bowl, beat the cream just until it mounds softly when dropped from a spoon. Add the raspberry purée and, with a whisk or rubber spatula, fold the two together until they become completely uniform. (You will have 3¾ cups of filling.) Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate it.

MAKE THE LIGHT ITALIAN MERINGUE

Have ready a 1-cup heatproof liquid measure by the range.

In a small heatproof measuring cup, place the gelatin and 1 tablespoon of the water and allow the mixture to sit for 5 minutes. Set the cup in a pan of simmering water for a few minutes, stirring occasionally, until the gelatin is dissolved. (This can also be done in a few seconds in a microwave on high power, stirring once or twice.)

In a small heavy saucepan, preferably with a nonstick lining, stir together 6 tablespoons of the sugar and the remaining 2 tablespoons of water until the sugar is completely moistened. Heat, stirring constantly, until the sugar dissolves and the syrup is bubbling. Stop stirring and turn down the heat to the lowest setting. (If using an electric range, remove the pan from the heat.)

In a mixing bowl, using the whisk beater, beat the egg whites until foamy. Add the cream of tartar and beat until soft peaks form when the beater is raised slowly. Gradually beat in the remaining 1 tablespoon of sugar and beat until stiff peaks form when the beater is raised slowly.

Increase the heat under the syrup and boil the syrup until a thermometer registers 248° to 250°F. (firm ball stage). Immediately pour the syrup into the glass measure to stop the cooking.

If using an electric hand-held mixer on high speed, beat the syrup into the whites in a steady stream. To keep syrup from spinning onto the sides of the bowl, do not allow it to fall directly on the beaters. If using a stand mixer, pour a small amount of syrup over the whites with the mixer off. Immediately beat at high speed for 5 seconds. Stop the mixer and add a larger amount of syrup. Beat at high speed for 5 seconds. Continue with the remaining syrup. With the last addition, use a rubber scraper to remove the syrup clinging to the measuring cup.

Lower the speed to medium, add the gelatin mixture, and beat at medium speed until cool, about 2 minutes.

Use a large balloon whisk or rubber spatula to fold the Italian meringue into the raspberry mixture in two parts. Finish by using a rubber spatula to reach to the bottom. (You will have 3¾ cups of filling.) Pour the filling at once into the prepared pie crust or shell and refrigerate until the surface is set before topping with the raspberries, at least 30 minutes.

MAKE THE RASPBERRY TOPPING

Arrange the raspberries on top of the pie and dust lightly with powdered sugar. The filling needs to set for at least 6 hours before serving. Refrigerate until shortly before serving.

STORE

Refrigerated, up to 3 days; frozen (without the topping), up to 3 weeks.

POINTERS FOR SUCCESS

Spraying or greasing the heatproof measuring cup prevents the raspberry syrup from bubbling over the top during microwaving.

UNDERSTANDING

Raspberry is so intense that compared to the strawberry chiffon filling, this needs Italian meringue to lighten it, and only about half the berries.

CRANBERRY CHIFFON PIE

T
his pie has the tart intense flavor of cranberry combined with the light texture of the classic chiffon filling. It makes a cold refreshing finale for a holiday feast.

EQUIPMENT

A 9-inch pie pan; optional: a number 7 large star pastry tube and a pastry bag or a reclosable quart-size freezer bag