Pie and Pastry Bible (57 page)

UNDERSTANDING

See the Nadæge Tart, page 185.

The meringue is baked at a lower temperature than usual because the chocolate is more susceptible to burning.

^*
Use a small saucepan, or a heatproof glass measure if using a microwave on high power, and heat until small bubbles form around the perimeter.

^*
Use a small saucepan, or a heatproof glass measure if using a microwave on high power, and heat until small bubbles form around the perimeter.

^*
If using an
-inch cake layer, you will need about 1½ cups of meringue. If using a ¼-inch cake layer, the cake will come almost to the top of the pan, so you will only need about 1 cup of meringue.

CUSTARD PIES AND TARTS

C
ustard pies and tarts include cream pies, such as banana and chocolate, pumpkin pie, buttermilk, and even tiramisù and cheesecake tarts. And, of course, frozen custard pies are ice cream pies.

A custard is a liquid that is thickened with egg. The liquid is usually some form of milk or cream, but in the case of lemon meringue pie filling it is lemon juice. Some custards contain whole eggs, and others have added yolks or even all yolks for an exceptionally smooth, rich, and satiny texture.

If given a choice between a pie bursting with colorful luscious fruit and a creamy custard pie such as banana cream pie or chocolate cream pie, I would have to think long and hard, but the custard pie would probably win. Some cream pies, however, like coconut cream, and mincemeat, are so rich and sweet, I prefer them frozen as ice cream pies. Let’s face it: Custard pies are a celebration of self-indulgent bliss!

BUTTERMILK CHESS PIE

I
have tried many versions of this classic Southern custard pie. Some derive their slight tartness from buttermilk, some from lemon, others from vinegar. I find that the most intriguing and satisfying flavor comes from mostly buttermilk and a little lemon juice. Nutmeg does wonders to wake up the custard. For my Northern palate, I lowered the sugar just a bit, but there is still plenty left in the filling to form a lovely, slightly crunchy top as it bakes.

OVEN TEMPERATURE: 325°F. BAKING TIME: 1 HOUR SERVES: 8
INGREDIENTS	MEASURE	WEIGHT
VOLUME	OUNCES	GRAMS
Buttermilk Flaky Pie Crust for a 9-inch pie shell (page 25), prebaked and still warm		12 ounces	340 grams
½ large egg white	1 tablespoon	0.5 ounce	15 grams
3 large eggs	scant liquid cup	5.25 ounces	150 grams
cornstarch	1½ teaspoons	•	5 grams
sugar	1 cup	7 ounces	363 grams
buttermilk 1½	12.1 ounces	363 grams
unsalted butter, melted and cooled until no longer hot	8 tablespoons	4 ounces	113 grams
finely grated lemon zest	2 teaspoons	•	4 grams
freshly squeezed lemon juice	1 tablespoon	0.5 ounce	16 grams
nutmeg, preferably freshly grated ½ teaspoon	•	•
salt	a pinch	•	•

EQUIPMENT

A 9-inch pie pan

Make the dough (page 25).

On a floured pastry cloth or between two sheets of lightly floured plastic wrap, roll the dough
inch thick and large enough to cut a 13-inch circle. Use an expandable flan ring or cardboard template and sharp knife as a guide to cut out the circle. Transfer it to the pie pan, folding the excess under and decoratively crimping the edge. Cover the pastry with plastic wrap and refrigerate it for a minimum of 30 minutes and a maximum of 3 hours.

Prebake the crust (see page 18). While it is still warm, brush it with the egg white (see page 20).

Preheat the oven to 325° F. at least 15 minutes before baking. Set an oven rack at the lowest level and place a baking stone or cookie sheet on it before preheating

In a large bowl, beat the eggs, cornstarch, and sugar until well mixed. Beat in the buttermilk, alternating it with the melted butter, in 4 parts. Beat in the lemon zest, lemon juice, nutmeg, and salt. (You will have almost 3 cups of filling.)

Pour the filling into the pie shell and place it in the oven directly on the baking stone. Bake for 1 hour or until the surface is lightly browned and the filling is set. It will jiggle slightly when moved and a knife inserted between sides and center will come out clean.

Serve warm or at room temperature.

STORE

Room temperature; this is best eaten the same day.

GREAT PUMPKIN PIE

P
umpkin is one of those tastes you either love or hate, so there is no point in half-measures. Its earthy flavor should not be overwhelmed by molasses or too much spice, particularly mace. If you’re a pumpkin lover, when you bite into a piece of pumpkin pie, you want to taste pumpkin.

In this recipe, I cook the pumpkin and spices before baking, which makes for a more mellow and pleasing flavor. Puréeing the pumpkin in a food processor produces an unusually silky texture.

The crunchy bottom crust is the result of creating a layer of gingersnaps and ground pecans to absorb any excess liquid from the filling, and also of baking the pie directly on the floor of the oven.

EQUIPMENT

A 9-inch pie pan, preferably Pyrex

Make the dough (page 22).

OVEN TEMPERATURE: 375° F. • BAKING TIME: 50 TO 60 MINUTES SERVES: 8
INGREDIENTS	MEASURE	WEIGHT
VOLUME	OUNCES	GRAMS
* Dark brown sugar adds a delicious butterscotch flavor but masks some of the pumpkin flavor.
Basic Flaky Pie Crust for a 9-inch pie (page 22)		12 ounces	340 grams
4 (2-inch) gingersnaps		1 ounce	29 grams
pecan halves	¼ cup	1 scant ounce	25 grams
Pumkin Filling unsweetend pumpkin purée	(3¾ liquid cups) 1¾ cups (one 15-ounce can)	(34.5 ounces) 15 ounces	(984 grams) 425 grams
light brown sugar, preferably raw (see page 646)*	¾ cup, packed	5.75 ounces	163 grams
ground ginger	2 teaspoons	•	•
ground cinnamon	1½ teaspoons	•	•
salt	½ teaspoon	•	•
milk	liquid cup	5.6 ounces	160 grams
heavy cream	liquid cup	5.5 ounces	153 grams
3 large eggs	scant liquid cup	5.25 ounces 150 grams (weighed without the shell)
pure vanilla extract	½ teaspoon	•	•