Pie and Pastry Bible (77 page)

UNDERSTANDING

Seville orange zest is unpleasantly bitter and should not be used.

Navel oranges have no seeds and hold together well for slicing. Their skin is thick, making it easier to grate.

For an interesting variation, use blood oranges in place of the Valencia (juice) oranges for the juice and the zest. They will lend their unique, aromatically tart flavor to the glaze and turn the navel orange slices deep red. You will need to brush on the glaze while it is still hot, however, as it will be thicker because of the higher acidity of the juice.

A small amount of gelatin is needed to make the curd cream more firm because the density of the orange slices creates pressure on the cream when the tart is sliced.

KIWI TART WITH LIME CURD

T
he first time I ate a kiwi was twenty-four years ago in a sailboat off the coast of Maryland. I was astonished by their astringent but luscious flavor—and the fact that they immediately cured my seasickness. The kiwi has so many virtues—it is beautiful to behold, tangy in flavor, and plentiful—that it just about self-destructed through overuse. Time to give kiwis another chance, and this kiwi-lime tart is the perfect place to start. The combination of these two fruits, accented by a fresh blueberry garnish, is an exciting synergy of flavor and color.

EQUIPMENT

A 9½-inch fluted tart pan with a removable bottom

Make the dough (page 56). Roll and shape it or press it into the pan and prebake it (see page 252). Let cool.

Pour the lime curd cream into the prebaked pastry crust and chill for at least 30 minutes.

Peel and slice the kiwis into ¼-inch rounds. Arrange them in slightly overlapping circles over the lime curd cream, starting from the outer edge. Place the blueberries between and on top of the kiwi slices.

MAKE THE GLAZE

In a small saucepan, combine the lime juice, water, sugar, and arrowroot, cassava, or cornstarch and stir until the sugar and starch are dissolved. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until thickened. With arrowroot, this will happen before the liquid comes to a boil; with cassava, this will happen within a few seconds of reaching the boil; with cornstarch, the liquid must come to a boil and simmer for about 20 seconds. Pour the glaze immediately into a heatproof glass measure or bowl. Using a pastry brush or feather, brush the glaze onto the kiwi and blueberries. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour or until shortly before serving.

Unmold (see page 251) and slice with a sharp thin knife.

STORE

Refrigerated, up to 2 days.

MANGO PASSION TART

T
his is a lush, hearty tart with substantial flavor and texture. Uncut, it resembles a giant rose encased in a golden fluted crust. A cross-section reveals a crisp coconut crust, a layer of passion curd cream, and a scant-half-inch layer of sponge cake, topped with ripe but firm slices of mango, the color of the passion curd. Reddish purple Marionberries make a beautiful and intensely flavorful garnish. This tart would also be delicious made with lemon curd cream and garnished with blackberries.

EQUIPMENT

A 10-inch fluted tart pan with a removable bottom

Make the dough (page 58). Roll and shape it or press it into the pan and prebake it (see page 252). Let cool.

In a small saucepan over medium-low heat, or in a microwave oven, heat the apricot preserves until melted and bubbling. Strain into a small cup. You will have about
cup. Use a pastry brush or feather to paint 3 tablespoons of the apricot glaze onto the bottom and sides of the pastry shell. Set the remainder aside, covered.

Pour the passion curd cream into the pastry shell. Spread it evenly.

With a serrated knife, remove the upper crust from the sponge cake. Set the cake in the pastry shell, top side up. Use a pastry brush or feather to brush the rum evenly onto the cake.

Arrange the mango slices in overlapping circles over the cake, starting from the outer edge and placing the curved edges toward the edge of the crust, so the slices resemble a rose. Use the smaller slices for the center. For the very center, curve 1 or 2 slices, making the ends meet, and slip them into the remaining space.

GLAZE THE TART

Reheat the reserved apricot glaze until fluid (a few seconds in the microwave, or, stirring constantly, in a small saucepan). Using a pastry brush or feather, brush the glaze onto the mangoes. Garnish, if desired, with the Marionberries. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour, or until shortly before serving.

Unmold the tart (see page 251) and slice with a sharp thin knife.

STORE

Refrigerated, up to 3 days.

UNDERSTANDING

There is no need to let the curd cream set before placing the cake on top; the curd cream is firm enough to support the cake and fruit but needs to set and firm up before cutting into perfect slices.

PLUM FLAME TART

I
n this tart, quartered plums are arranged to resemble petals or rich purple flames with flashes of gold from the inside of the fruit. The crust is slightly sweetened, perfumed with lemon, and nicely crunchy, the fruit moist and tart. This is a seasonal dessert, as Italian prune plums are available only in the fall. Choose firm plums that yield only slightly to pressure.

EQUIPMENT

A 9½-inch fluted tart pan with a removable bottom

Make the dough (page 56). Roll and shape it or press it into the pan and prebake it for 7 to 10 minutes or until golden and set but still soft (see page 252), so the plums can be pressed slightly into it.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. at least 15 minutes before baking the tart. Set an oven rack at the lowest level and place a baking stone or baking sheet on it before preheating.

Sprinkle the crust with the cornstarch. Starting at the outside edge, arrange the plums in a circle so that they stand upright, with one pointed end pressing into the base of the crust, the other pointed end up, and the skin side leaning against the side of the crust. After completing one circle, continue in concentric circles,
fitting in as many plums as possible. If any spaces remain at the end, cut any extra pieces in half to fit into the smaller spaces.

OVEN TEMPERATURE: 350°F. • BAKING TIME: 45 MINUTES SERVES: 6
INGREDIENTS	MEASURE	WEIGHT
VOLUME	OUNCES	GRAMS
* The exact amount depends on the tartness of the fruit. You may want to increase the sugar to ½ cup if the plums are very tart.
Sweet Cookie Tart Crust for a 9½-inch tart (page 56), partially prebaked	1 cup	10 ounces	288 grams
cornstarch	1 teaspoon	•	•
Italian prune plums, cut lengthwise in to quarters and pitted	6 cups (quartered)	2 pounds 907 grams (quartered)
sugar	cup*	2.3 ounces	66 grams
ground cinnamon	½ teaspoon	•	•
nutmeg, preferably freshly grated	teaspoon	•	•
apricot preserves	cup	4 ounces	113 grams
optional: heavy cream, whipped (see pages 551-553)	½ liquid cup	4 ounces	116 grams