Rose's Heavenly Cakes (43 page)

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Authors: Rose Levy Beranbaum

BOOK: Rose's Heavenly Cakes
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Place the four cake layers on a clean work surface. With a small offset spatula, spread each with 2 tablespoons of the marmalade.

Place one cake layer marmalade side down in the trifle bowl. Brush it evenly with about one-quarter of the syrup (about ¼ cup). Pour about 1½ cups of the chiboust cream over the layer and spread it evenly with the back of a spoon, being careful to get as little cream as possible up the sides of the bowl. Sprinkle the chiboust cream with one-third of the strawberries, making sure some land against the sides of the bowl for an attractive appearance.

Continue in the same way with the second and third cake layers, syrup, chiboust cream, and strawberries, remembering always to place the cake layers preserves side down. Top with the fourth cake layer and brush it with the remaining syrup. Press it gently on top. Spread the remaining chiboust cream evenly over the top. Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. About 2 hours before serving, remove the trifle from the refrigerator and allow it to come to room temperature.

Whipped Cream Topping
Makes:
2 cups/8.6 ounces/244 grams

Volume

Ounce

Gram

heavy cream, cold

1 cup (8 fluid ounces), divided

8.2

232

powdered sugar

2 tablespoons

0.5

14

cornstarch (see
Notes
)

1 teaspoon

.

.

pure vanilla extract

½ teaspoon

.

.

Make the Whipped Cream Topping

In a mixing bowl, pour ¾ cup of the cream and refrigerate it for at least 15 minutes. (Chill the mixer's beaters alongside the bowl.)

In a small saucepan, combine the powdered sugar and cornstarch and gradually stir in the remaining ¼ cup of the cream. Bring the mixture to a boil, stirring constantly, and simmer for just a few seconds until the liquid is thickened. Using a silicone spatula, scrape the mixture into a small bowl and cool to room temperature. Stir in the vanilla.

Whip the cream, starting on low speed, gradually raising the speed to medium-high as it thickens, just until traces of the beater marks begin to show distinctly. Add the cornstarch mixture in a steady stream, whipping constantly, just until stiff peaks form when the beater is raised.

Final Presentation

For a piped decoration, immediately fill a pastry bag fitted with the Saint-Honoré tube or a large open star pastry tube (3/8 to ½ inch) with the whipped cream, if using, and pipe starting around the edges of the bowl. Arrange the reserved strawberries on top.

Variation
Praliné

If you love the flavor of hazelnuts, then when making the Chiboust cream, add ½ cup/5.5 ounces/154 grams praline paste after beating the hot milk into the yolk mixture. Beat for several minutes until well incorporated. Replace the Grand Marnier with Frangelico or Cognac.

Notes

In the pastry cream, cornstarch protects the yolks from curdling when boiled. The mixture must be boiled to fully activate the cornstarch's thickening ability. For the whipped cream, if your cream is very low in butterfat (see
Heavy Cream
), use 1¼ teaspoons cornstarch.

If Tahitian vanilla beans are unavailable (see
Vanilla Bean
), you may use a total of 1½ Madagascar vanilla beans or increase the vanilla extract to 1½ teaspoons.

I prefer sweet orange marmalade or a mixture of marmalade and apricot preserves.

Spun Sugar

Volume

Ounce

Gram

sugar

½ cup

3.5

100

corn syrup

1/3 cup (2.6 fluid ounces)

3.7

109

grated beeswax (optional)

1 teaspoon

.

.

Prepare the Work Surface

Cover the floor around your work surface with newspaper. Oil the handles of two long wooden spoons or dowels and tape them to the work surface 12 inches apart, with the handles extending well beyond the edge of the work surface.

Make the Spun Sugar

Have ready a 2-cup or larger heatproof glass measure.

In a small heavy saucepan, stir together the sugar and corn syrup over medium heat and bring it to a boil, stirring constantly. Increase the heat and boil until medium amber and an instant-read thermometer registers 360°F/180°C. Immediately remove the pan from the heat and pour the syrup into the glass measure. The temperature will continue to climb to 370°F/188°C. (If the temperature is lower, the spun sugar will be white; if higher, it will have a brassy color.) Allow it to cool for a few minutes.

Add the beeswax, if using. When any smoking stops, check the caramel by lifting it with a fork to see if it will fall in strings rather than droplets.

When it falls in strings, stand on a stool so that your arms are above the wooden handles. Using a cut whisk (see
Equipment
) or two forks held side by side, dip into the caramel and vigorously wave back and forth, allowing the sugar to fall in long fine threads over the handles. The waving must be continuous or small droplets, called angel's tears, will form. If the caramel starts to get too thick, zap it for a few seconds in a microwave.

If not ready to use the spun sugar right away, curve it to the size of the top of the trifle bowl and set it in a pan that has been coated lightly with nonstick cooking spray.

Any strands left over can be formed into little nests and frozen for several months to use as containers for ice cream or sorbet.

Highlights For Success

Don't attempt to make spun sugar on a humid day; it will evaporate into thin air! If the weather is dry, you can make the spun sugar several hours ahead. Although the beeswax is optional, it does wonders keeping the spun sugar strands flexible, especially if not using them right away. (It is available in sewing supply stores.) Alternatively, curve the strands in a large circle immediately after spinning the sugar.

Spinning the sugar

Wrapping the sugar into a round form
Holiday Pinecone Cake
Serves:
12 to 14
Baking Time:
7 to 10 minutes

This is the ultimate holiday dessert. I made it for the first time when
The Cake Bible
was published and I had the incredible good fortune of being invited to be on Charlie Rose's television show. I wanted to do something outrageously impressive, and he had requested chocolate. The design of the cake was inspired by one that Rudi Hauser, the great Swiss chocolatier, had done for
Bon Appétit
magazine. Since I had created a luxurious chocolate rolled fondant for the book, I decided to use it for the "bark."

As this was the first television appearance I made for
The Cake Bible,
at the beginning of the segment I had the look of a proverbial deer in the headlights. By the end, however, when Charlie laughingly suggested that he would be my janitor and sweep floors if we went into business together, I was able to quip that we should get married so I could become Rose Rose! You can't ask for a more erudite or gracious host than Charlie Rose. I will always treasure the memory of that time with him when I make this fudge-like, intensely chocolate cake. And I would do it again in a New York minute.

Plan Ahead

Make the fondant 1 day before using. Make the ganache filling several hours before using. Fill and chill the roll at least 2 hours ahead. Apply the fondant no more than 6 hours ahead.

Chocolate Biscuit Roulade

Volume

Ounce

Gram

unsweetened (alkalized) cocoa powder

¼ cup plus 1 teaspoon (sifted before measuring)

0.7

20

boiling water

¼ cup (2 fluid ounces)

2

59

pure vanilla extract

¾ teaspoon

.

.

cake flour (or bleached all-purpose flour)

1/3 cup (or ¼ cup plus 2 teaspoons), sifted into the cup and leveled off

1.2

33

4 large eggs, at room temperature, divided

¾ cup (6 fluid ounces)

7

200

about 1 large egg yolk, at room temperature

1 tablespoon (0.5 fluid ounce)

0.6

18

superfine sugar, divided

2/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon

5

145

cream of tartar

¼ teaspoon

.

.

powdered sugar for dusting

.

.

.

Special Equipment

One 17¼ by 12¼ by 1-inch half-sheet pan, coated lightly with nonstick cooking spray or shortening, bottom lined with a nonstick liner or parchment, then coated with baking spray with flour

Preheat the Oven

Twenty minutes or more before baking, set an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 425°F/220°C.

Mix the Cocoa and Water

In a small bowl, with a silicone spatula, stir together the cocoa and boiling water until smooth. Stir in the vanilla, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and cool to room temperature, about 20 minutes. To speed cooling, place the bowl in the refrigerator. Bring the mixture to room temperature before proceeding.

Sift the Flour

Onto a piece of parchment or into another small bowl, sift the flour.

Prepare the Eggs

Separate 2 of the eggs, placing the yolks in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk beater. Place the egg whites in another bowl. To the yolks, add the 2 remaining whole eggs, the additional yolk, and 2/3 cup of the sugar. Beat on high speed until thick, fluffy, and tripled in volume, about 5 minutes. Lower the speed to medium and add the cocoa mixture, beating a few seconds until incorporated. (If you have only one mixer bowl, scrape the mixture into another large bowl and wash and dry the mixer bowl and whisk beater very thoroughly.)

Make the Batter

Sift half the flour over the egg mixture and, using a large balloon whisk, slotted skimmer, or silicone spatula, fold it in gently but rapidly until almost all the flour has disappeared. Repeat with the remaining flour until all traces of flour have disappeared.

Beat the Egg Whites into a Stiff Meringue

In the bowl of the stand mixer fitted with the whisk beater, beat the egg whites on medium speed until foamy. With the mixer off, add the cream of tartar. Beat on medium-high speed until soft peaks form when the beater is raised. Beat in the remaining 1 tablespoon of sugar and continue beating until stiff peaks form when the beater is raised slowly. Fold the meringue into the batter. Using a silicone spatula, scrape the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the surface evenly with an offset spatula.

Bake the Cake

Bake for 7 to 10 minutes, or until the cake springs back when pressed lightly in the center.

Unmold and Cool the Cake

If necessary, loosen the sides with the tip of a sharp knife. Unmold the cake at once. Grasp the long edge of the liner and gently slide the cake from the pan onto a flat work surface. Dust the surface of the cake lightly with powdered sugar. While it is still hot, roll up the cake from the short end. Be sure to include the liner. (If using parchment, first flip the cake onto a clean dish towel and carefully remove the parchment. Then roll up the cake tightly, towel and all.) Decrease the oven temperature to 350°F/175°C to toast the almonds.

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