Ruhlman's Twenty (16 page)

These scrambled eggs are ethereal, not because of the goat cheese, but because they are prepared over simmering water rather than an open flame. This ensures that the cooking surface will be around 200°F/95°C. You can use a double boiler or any conductive pan or bowl over simmering water. I sometimes use my well-seasoned wok, which is somewhat nonstick and fits nicely into a big pot. You can use a steel mixing bowl or any saucepan that fits inside a pot. If you have a nonstick pan, you can set it above or in simmering water. Good nonstick pans are helpful for most egg preparations—if you have one, use it here to ease the cleanup.

The second critical point is to know when to remove the eggs from the pan. Stopping the cooking is part of the cooking. The whole point of cooking eggs over hot water is to avoid cooking too much water out of them and binding the proteins too tightly. You want to eat the eggs when they’re still wet. The solid curds should look as if they have sauce on them—this sauce is the part of the eggs that’s thickening but still fluid. When you see this, take the eggs off the heat and serve them immediately, preferably on plates that are warm and ready.

I like the creamy acidity that little dots of goat cheese bring to gently scrambled eggs, and I like to finish the eggs with the oniony notes and bright green color of sliced chives. You can also try small chunks of fresh mozzarella with a chiffonade of basil, for instance, or you can finish the eggs with a little more butter and torn tarragon, or some grated Parmigiano-Reggiano. Or melt the butter with a little minced shallot, then fold chopped sautéed mushrooms into the eggs as the eggs are cooking. Slices of delicate toast or toasted brioche on the side are always fine. If this is the first time you are cooking eggs this way, you may want to dispense with the garnish and eat them seasoned only with salt and freshly ground pepper.

Try to find farm-fresh eggs; it’s worth the effort when eggs are the main ingredient. Two large eggs make one satisfying serving, so cook as many as you need. For each serving, you’ll need about 1½ teaspoons butter, 1 teaspoon goat cheese, and ½ teaspoon sliced chives, but these quantities are up to the cook. Fine sea salt is best here.

Large eggs

Butter

Fresh goat cheese, separated into little chunks

Fine sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Sliced fresh chives

In the bottom of a double boiler, bring a moderate amount of water to a simmer and put the top pan over the water for long enough to get it hot. If you’ll be holding a pan in the water, you can ignore this step.

Crack the eggs into a bowl and whisk until the whites and yolks are completely and uniformly mixed. There should be no clear pools of egg white.

Put the butter into the pan and let it melt completely (or melt it directly over medium-low heat, then hold the pan in or above the simmering water).

Pour the eggs into the pan and stir and fold them continuously with a silicone spatula as they cook. When you sense that they are nearly done, add the goat cheese and season the eggs with salt. Give them another stir before serving. Grind some pepper over each serving and finish with a sprinkling of chives.

When I’m in New York City, and wake frayed and frazzled from the crowds, alone and missing my family, I go to Balthazar in Soho, sit at the bar, and order the shirred eggs and toast. It is infinitely comforting in its simplicity. With that and a few espressos, the day is transformed.

I have
The Balthazar Cookbook,
but much to my sadness, it does not include a recipe for shirred eggs. So here is my version, inspired by Balthazar. Now, I can have the eggs whenever I’m frayed and frazzled and alone at home, or better, I can share them with my wife on a lazy Sunday morning when the
New York Times
is spread out across the dining room table and the day is spread out before us without a plan.

The key to good shirred eggs is to heat the ramekin first, either in the microwave or over direct or indirect heat, so that the bottom of the egg cooks as quickly as the top. It also helps to take the eggs out of the refrigerator an hour or two before you cook them. Finally, it’s important to keep an eye on them.

I use ½ teaspoon butter, 1 tablespoon cream, and 1 to 2 teaspoons grated cheese for each large egg. The cream helps ensure gentle cooking. Cooking time depends on the depth of your ramekin. I use shallow oval ramekins that are perfect for two eggs. I like to finish them under the broiler to give the cheese a little color.

These shirred eggs are very simple—very mild and comforting. You can vary them any way you like by adding chives or tarragon, shallot, or tomato, as you wish.

Butter

Large eggs

Heavy/double cream

Finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 350°F/180°C/gas 4.

Put the butter in a ramekin. Microwave the dish until it is hot and the butter is melted. Add the eggs, cream, and Parmigiano-Reggiano. Place the ramekin in the oven and bake just until the whites are set, about 10 minutes. If you want to finish the eggs in the broiler/grill, remove them from the oven after 5 to 7 minutes. Heat the broiler/ grill and broil/grill the eggs until the cheese has a little color. Season with salt and pepper before serving.