Shopgirls (41 page)

Zweiniger-Bargielowska, Ina (ed.),
Women in Twentieth-Century Britain
, Harlow: Pearson/Longman, 2001

The page references in this index correspond to the printed edition from which this ebook was created. To find a specific word or phrase from the index, please use the search feature of your ebook reader.

Abbot, Dr. William 47–8, 49

Ablett, William:
Reminiscences of an Old Draper
9–10, 34, 74

Acton, William 55

Adult Suffrage Society 121, 124

advertising 119, 122, 128, 130, 142, 143, 145, 171, 181

advertisements 1, 3–4, 23, 28, 53, 77, 78

Acts of Parliament 11, 43, 46, 49, 50, 56–7, 98, 112, 121, 124, 155–6, 172, 218–19
see also individual act name

air raids 180–81, 188–9

Alexander, Sally 219–20, 222

Alice, Princess 79

Allder’s, Croydon 22, 26

Allen, Ellen 7

Allen, Alice (Daisy), 64

Amalgamated Union of Co-op Employees (AUCE) 112, 115, 152

Amazon 237, 238

American influence 15, 69, 80, 127, 129–33, 134, 138–9, 141, 144, 167, 173, 176, 189, 195, 204, 206, 209

Angry Brigade 223, 224, 225–7, 237

Apple 237, 238

Applin, Arthur:
Shop Girls
84–5

apprentices 3, 7, 16, 17, 24–5, 33, 35, 37, 43, 47, 49–50, 93, 128, 150, 204

Archer, William 89

Are You Being Served?
xiv

Army & Navy Store Co-operative Society (‘The Stores’) 106, 144, 156, 157, 158, 159

Arndale centres 229–30

Arndale Group 229

Arnold Constable & Co 129

art colleges 207, 212–13

Art Nouveau 66, 70, 207

Arts and Crafts movement 70

Ashby, Vera May 169

Asian family stores 228

Asquith, Herbert 114, 122, 123

Austin, Katherine 190. 238

Austins, Derry 22

Ayton, Sylvia 209, 227

Baader-Meinhof 224

baby boom, post-war 214

Bacon, Sir Francis 85

Bacon’s, Liverpool 78

Bainbridge, Emerson Muschamp 25

Bainbridge’s, Newcastle 25, 36, 110, 142, 172

Baird, Logie 171

Baker, Eliza 146

Bardot, Brigitte 207

Barker, John 226

Barkers, Kensington 122, 207, 228

Barley, Caroline 7

Barrett, Syd 211

Bathurst, Georgina 3

Batterman, John 7, 24

Battle of Britain, 1940 188–9

Battle of the Atlantic, 1939–45 186

Batty, William 226

Baxter, Ann Elizabeth 7

Bayswater Chronicle
22

Bazaar, King’s Road, Chelsea 203–5, 210, 213, 223

‘Beat’ style 204

Beatles, The 210

Bellars, Lucy 7

Bender, Lee 227

Benjamin, Walter 69

Bennett, Arnold 171;
Hugo
171

Bennetts, Derby 22

Bentalls, Kingston 171

Bergdorf Goodman 129

Besant, Annie 98–9

Best, George 211

Betjeman, John 168

Biba 206–9, 214, 223, 225–7

‘Biba Twins’ 209

Bichan, Robert 147, 163

‘Big Shop Controversy’ 133–7

Birdcage, The, Nottingham 211

Birtwell, Celia 205, 217

Black Friday confrontation 123–4

black market 192–3

Black, Clementina 94–5, 98, 113–14

Blitz 188–9

Board of Trade 114, 127, 181, 192

Bon Marché, Paris xiii, 69–70

Bondfield, Anne 94

Bondfield, Margaret 33–4, 40, 42, 50, 51, 93–7, 99–101, 102, 103, 106, 109, 121, 124–5, 167, 168, 174, 221, 232, 235

Bondfield, William 94

Bookbinder, Tony 211

Boots 180, 230

Boucherett, Jessie 12–13, 15, 24, 29, 43–4

Bouchier, (Dorothy) Chili 148–9, 164–5, 258

Boucicaut, Aristide and Marguerite 69–70

boutiques 203–14, 224–7, 231, 232

Bovril 134

Boyd, Jenny 210

Boyd, Patti 210

Bradshaw’s Descriptive Guide to Manchester and Surrounding Districts
16, 17

Brahan Castle, Scottish Highlands 8–9

Brent Cross shopping centre, London 229–31, 232, 233

Bristol 52, 100–101, 120

British Empire 10, 155

British Home Stores 169, 170, 180–81

British Land 227

Brittain, Walter 142

Britton, Rita 211–12

Brooks, Elkie 211

Brown family 26

Brown, Charles 26

Brown, Horatio 85

Brown, William 26

Browning, Robert 9, 94, 95

Browns, Chester 26, 137

Bruce, Esther 228

Bruce, Joseph 229

Bryant & May, London 98–9

Bultitude, Millicent 205

Burberry’s 119, 122

Burbridge, Richard 75

Burlington Arcade, London 52, 53, 54

Burnett, Captain 190

Burnett, Sarah 209

Bus Stop 227

Butler, Josephine 57

buyers 34, 35, 36, 78, 96, 130, 140, 149, 159, 162, 163, 176, 177, 212–13

Byrne, Kiki 205

Bystander
80

Cadbury’s 134

Cambridge University 107, 146, 162

Cambridge Women’s Suffrage Association, The 120

Campbell, Janet 211, 217

Campbell, Reverend Reginald 81

Canham, Hilda 159

Cape, Faithful 35

Carr, Robert 224

Carr’s 134

Cass, Elizabeth 57–8, 59

Cassell’s Magazine
42, 76

Castle, Barbara 218

Catesby, W.E. 142

catwalk parades 79–80, 210–11

CBS 209

census 54; 1841 54–5; 1851 7, 10–12, 23; 1861 3; 1891 39

‘Chain Gang, the’ 180–1

chain stores/multiples 15, 133–4, 167, 169–72, 176, 213
see also individual store name

Chamberlain, Joseph 9

Chamberlain, Neville 182

Channel Islands 183–4, 194–5, 199

Chelsea Girl 213–14

Chelsea girls and counter-cultures 203–32

‘Chelsea look, the’ 204, 213, 214

Chester 26, 137

Chesterton, G. K. 133, 134, 135–7, 226

Cheval, Timothe 54

Chicago 69, 111

Chippindale, Sam 229

Churchill, Winston 114–15, 182

Clamp, Doris 198

Clark, Elizabeth Huber 132, 137–8

Clark, Ossie 205, 210, 212

Clarke, Ethel 198

Cleave, Maureen 203

Clifford, Dr John 108

Close, Eliza 2–3, 24, 25, 27, 28, 69

co-operative stores 67, 106–7, 110, 112, 115, 133–4, 150, 152, 156, 169–70, 195
see also under individual store name

co-operative movement 5, 15, 67, 103–8, 110, 112, 115–16, 118, 133–4, 144, 150, 152, 156, 169–70, 195, 232

Co-operative Wholesale Society 103, 107

Committee for Imperial Defence 180

Conran, Terence 212

conscription 187, 188, 193, 195

Conservative Party 112, 230

consumer society 56, 66–70, 72, 74, 75, 125, 214, 223–7

Contagious Diseases Act, 1864 57

Contrary, Manchester 211

Copeman’s grocery, Norwich 6

Corner, Lindsay 211

Coronation Street
211

Corus, Miss 51–2

Costard, Betty Yvonne 183, 194

Costigan & Co, Glasgow 156

counter-culture 214–15, 219, 226, 231

couture 70, 77–9, 203, 204, 208, 210–11

Cox, Lizzie 49–50

credit 6, 65, 103, 130

Creek, Hilary 227

Cripps, Liverpool 78, 79

Cross & Blackwell 134

customers: addressing 28; American attitude towards 130, 131, 132, 137, 138; boutiques and
see
boutiques; browsing/obligation to buy and 132, 138, 170, 207; class and
see individual class name
; co-op movement and
see
co-op movement; credit and 6, 65, 103, 130; East End and West End contrasted 96; female assistants preferred by 28–9; find shopping experience unpleasant 8–10; importance of female 65; leading 232; personal relationship of shopkeeper and female 67; seats for 45, 66; self-service 195; shopkeepers take personal interest in 6; stores and
see under individual store name
13; war and
see
First World War
and
Second World War

Dagenham strike, Ford, 1968 218–19, 221

Daily Chronicle
95, 97

Daily Express
136–7

Daily Mail
82, 118, 159, 169

Daily Mail
Home Exhibition 169

Daily Mirror
82, 164, 207

Daily News
113, 135

Dakotas, The 211

Dam, H. J. 89

Daniels and Co., Kentish Town 108–9

Dare, Grace 93, 95–7

Darwin, Charles 48, 49

Davies, John 224

Davies, Margaret Llewelyn 106, 107, 115

Dawson, Diana (Melly) 204, 210

De Gruchy, St Helier 183–4, 194, 199–200

De Jong’s, Liverpool 78

Debenhams 22, 109, 142, 213, 228

Debord, Guy:
The Society of Spectacle
224

‘Deeds not Words’ campaign 118, 121

Denza, Vanessa 212–13

Department of Employment 217

department stores 15–16, 17, 19, 22, 23, 25, 26, 35–6, 38, 40–41, 45, 64, 65, 66, 69–70, 72, 75, 76, 77, 81, 85, 87, 111, 112, 115, 129, 131, 134, 136, 138, 142, 152, 164, 171, 172, 174, 176, 183, 186, 189, 192, 203, 205, 207, 208, 212, 215, 217, 226, 227, 228, 229
see also individual store name

Derry & Toms, Kensington 109, 119, 165, 207, 227

Dickins & Jones 144

Dickens, Charles 68, 85

documentary films 118, 181, 184–5, 186–7, 189, 209

Dorothy Perkins 227

Dorval, Thomas 54

Draffen & Jarvie, Dundee 144

drapers 3, 5, 7, 9–10, 16, 17, 18, 20, 22, 25, 29, 33–4, 35, 39, 40, 45, 46, 47, 50, 69, 74, 77–8, 79, 81, 84, 93, 95–6, 102, 108, 109, 110, 116, 117, 127–8, 129–30, 132, 135, 142, 143, 144, 145, 162, 171, 175, 176, 182, 188, 196

Drapers Record, The
40–41, 69, 81, 129, 132, 143, 144

Drapers’ Chamber of Trade 81

Dublin 123–4

Duchess of Westminster 79

Dunkirk 182, 188

early closing 42–4, 47–8, 102

Early Closing Association 42–3, 47

East End, London 42, 59, 96, 98

Eaden Lilley 144

Edinburgh 11, 22, 26, 56, 59, 65–6, 69, 137

Edinburgh Review
: ‘Female Industry’ article 11, 12

Edis, Dr Arthur 45, 46, 47, 49

education 3, 11, 13, 29, 76, 85, 114, 136–7, 162, 221

Edwardia, Manchester 211

Elt, Nellie 138

English Women’s Journal, The
13

equal pay 218–19, 221

Equal Pay Act, 1970 219

ethnicity 228–9

eugenics 49

Evans, D. H. 122

Evans, David 117

Evans, Gladys 123–4, 238

Evening Post
199–200

Evening Standard
208

F. Cape & Co., Oxford 35, 39, 49–50, 110

Factory Acts 43

factory work 3, 10, 22, 27, 43, 44, 49, 67, 82, 105, 119–20, 130, 151, 162, 174, 186, 188, 192, 197, 198, 210, 213

fashion 29, 73, 78, 80, 203–5, 210, 213, 225

fashion models 78–81, 165, 204–5, 208, 209, 210–11, 215, 217

fashion shows 79–80, 210–11

fast fashion 213

Fawcett, Millicent Garrett 118

Featherstone, Yorkshire 193

Fenwick 230

Fenwick, J.J. 25

fiction 11, 84–5, 86, 89, 204

Field, Marshall 69

Filene 131

fines 24, 35, 37, 38, 41, 45, 46, 50, 58, 93, 97, 99, 108, 139, 196

The First of May Group 224

First World War, 1914–18 124, 143, 149–52, 155, 168, 180, 187, 194

Fisher, Olive 140

Fitz-Simon, Stephen 207, 224–5, 226

Foale, Marion 212

food prices/riots 106, 149

Ford 218, 221, 226

Forget-Me-Not
82–3

Foster, Eliza 7

Foster, Nelson 5–6, 7, 10, 16, 24, 34

Fowle, Ida Annie 29–30, 36

France 7, 8, 11, 53–4, 66, 69–70, 72, 78, 151, 176, 182, 197, 209, 213, 223–4

Franco, General 224

Franks, Jesse 80

Fraser Sons & Co 22

French Connection 227

Friedan, Betty 222

Fulham Road Clothes Shop 209

Gamages, Holborn 228

gay men 206

General Strike, 1926 168

George VI, King 199

Get Dressed
205

Gilmour, David 211

Girl from Kay’s, The
64, 65

Girl’s Own Paper
45

Girls’ Friend
83

Gladstone, William 47

Glasgow 1–2, 4, 52, 68, 87, 102, 156, 175, 191, 206

Glasgow Herald
1–2

Glasgow High School for Girls 102

glovers 55

Gordon, Sir Cosmo Duff 80

Gorringes, Victoria 228

grands magasins
70

Grantham 230, 231

Graphic, The
72

Great Exhibition, 1851 17, 23

Great Shop Strike, 1919 157–60

Green, Bill 206

Green, Philip 234

Greene, Alexander Plunket 203

Greenfield, James 227

Greer, Germaine 222

Grierson, Ruby 184

Griffiths, Winifred 150

Grimsey, Bill 233

grocers 5–6, 7, 16, 18, 22, 34, 90, 99, 100, 116, 133–5, 150, 151, 176, 177, 185, 186, 196, 230, 231

Grose Brothers 109

Guernica, bombing of, 1937 179–80

Guest, William 185

Hagenbach, Arnold 229

Hamilton, Cicely 109;
Diana of Dobson’s
109–10

Hardie, Keir 117

Hardy, Thomas 9

Harmsworth, Alfred (Lord Northcliffe) 82, 157–8

Harris, Lilian 106–7, 115

Harrison, George 210

Harrod, Charles Digby 29, 36

Harrod, Henry Charles 22

Harrodian Gazette
111

Harrods, Knightsbridge xiii, 22, 23, 29–30, 35–7, 70, 111, 122, 137, 143, 148, 150, 159, 164–5, 171, 173, 192, 207, 209, 212

Hartley’s 134

Harvey Nichols, Knightsbridge 67, 212

Harvey, Arthur 183–4, 194–5, 199–200

Harvey, Kay 194–5, 199

Harvey, Mary Ann 75

Headey, Albert 134–5, 151

Hem and Fringe, London 210

Hepburn, Audrey 208