I like this appetizer because it is not only beautiful but also a light, fresh start to a meal. Both the beans and tomatoes need to be in small pieces to avoid too much mess. There are some great organic beers on the market, which I think are a perfect match for this dish.

1 cup miniature or cherry tomatoes, halved or quartered

½ small red onion, thinly sliced

1 garlic clove, minced

¼ cup thinly sliced fresh basil

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

½ teaspoon salt

2 ounces small green or wax beans, cut diagonally into ½-inch pieces

12 thick diagonal slices whole grain or hearty Italian bread

6 ounces soft goat cheese, such as chèvre

Freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the broiler. Bring a medium pot of water to a boil over high heat.

In a large bowl, combine the tomatoes, onion, garlic, basil, oil, vinegar, and salt. Toss to coat well. Let stand for at least 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, add the beans to the boiling water and cook for 3 minutes, or until tender-crisp. Drain and rinse with cold water. Add to the tomato mixture.

Place the bread slices on a broiler pan. Broil for 2 minutes, or until lightly browned on one side. Turn the slices and brush each with some of the juices from the marinated tomatoes. Broil for 2 minutes longer, or until browned.

Remove the bread and place on a large serving platter, moistened side up. Divide the cheese evenly among the bread slices and spread over each.

Scatter the tomato mixture over the cheese and sprinkle with pepper to taste.

EGGPLANT
AND
PARSLEY FRITTO MISTO

MAKES
4
TO
6
SERVINGS

Sometimes the simpler the food, the more intoxicating it can be. At Flea St. Café, we can never take the seasonal fritto misto off the menu. It is our customers’ and staff’s favorite way to eat fresh vegetables. We love it sprinkled with lots of salt, chased down with a martini or two. This recipe is for eggplant and Italian parsley, but any seasonal vegetable that cooks quickly can be substituted for the eggplant.

Vegetable oil for frying

2 cups buttermilk (see Organic Tip on
page 38
)

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 cup cornmeal

1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour

½ teaspoon ground red pepper (cayenne)

2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 pound eggplant, such as globe, Rosa Bianca, or Japanese

Leaves of 1 small bunch Italian parsley

Heat 3 inches of oil in the bottom of a deep fryer or large stockpot until a deep-fat thermometer registers 350°F.

Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, combine the buttermilk and garlic.

In another bowl, combine the cornmeal, flour, ground red pepper, thyme, and salt and black pepper to taste.

Toss the eggplant in the buttermilk and then thoroughly coat with the flour mixture. Set aside until the oil is hot.

In small batches, fry the battered eggplant and add a few handfuls of the parsley leaves.

Drain on paper towels and salt generously. Repeat with remaining eggplant and parsley, making sure to maintain the temperature of the oil.

ROCK SHRIMP COCKTAIL
WITH
AVOCADO

MAKES
4
SERVINGS

Be sure to ask where the shrimp you purchase comes from and how it was harvested. Wild is fine when it is caught in a sustainable way. A lot of shellfish are being sustainably farm-raised, such as mussels, oysters, and shrimp. I like rock shrimp. Frozen or fresh, they are a good shrimp to use.

1/3 cup sour cream

2 tablespoons grated red onion

Salt

1/3 cup ketchup

2 heaping tablespoons grated horseradish

5 peppercorns, crushed with the side of a knife

1 bay leaf

12 ounces raw fresh or frozen rock shrimp, peeled

1 lime, halved

1 large avocado

1 teaspoon ground cumin

Freshly ground black pepper

In a small bowl, combine the sour cream, onion, and salt to taste. Cover and refrigerate. In another small bowl, combine the ketchup and horseradish. Cover and refrigerate.

Fill a large saucepan with water and add the peppercorns and bay leaf. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Add the shrimp and cook for a few minutes or until they just begin to curl. Err on the side of undercooking for moister, more succulent shrimp.

Remove the shrimp with a slotted spoon and run under cold water to cool quickly. Set aside.

Juice half the lime in a small bowl. Cut the other half into wedges and set aside.

Halve and pit the avocado. Scoop the flesh into the bowl with the lime juice. Add the cumin and salt and pepper to taste. Mash with a fork.

Divide the avocado mixture evenly among 4 martini glasses or other attractive 8-ounce glasses. Top each one with one-quarter of the shrimp. Spoon a few tablespoons of the sour cream sauce on top. Finish with a spoonful of the horseradish sauce and a wedge of lime.

SMOKED CRAB CAKES

MAKES
8
CRAB CAKES

These tender crab cakes make a lovely first course. Serve large cakes over a bed of young salad greens tossed with vinaigrette for a sit-down course. Or, for a cocktail party, prepare smaller cakes and serve as finger food. Adding smoked seafood to crab cakes brings forth the natural sweetness of crab. When possible, use smoked wild seafood, which has become more available lately. Go for the dry, flaky smoked fish instead of the moist kind.

12 ounces lump crabmeat

4 ounces dry smoked fish, such as trout, whitefish, salmon, or halibut

½ cup mashed potato (white or sweet)

½ cup mayonnaise

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce

3 green onions, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill

2 large eggs

½ cup unbleached all-purpose flour

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 cup fresh bread crumbs

Vegetable oil for frying

In a large bowl, combine the crabmeat, smoked fish, potato, mayonnaise, mustard, Worcestershire sauce, green onions, and dill. Gently toss to blend. Form into 8 large or 16 small cakes.

Put the eggs in a small bowl and beat well.

Combine the flour and salt and pepper to taste in a pie plate or shallow bowl.

In another pie plate or shallow bowl, combine the bread crumbs with salt and pepper to taste.

Dip the crab cakes in the flour, then in the beaten egg, and finally coat well with the bread crumbs.

Heat ½ cup of oil in a large heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Working in batches, cook the crab cakes for 6 to 8 minutes, turning once, until browned. Add more oil to the skillet as needed. Remove to paper towels to drain.

SUMMER STRATA

MAKES
12
SERVINGS

If you can, use both zucchini and yellow squash in this wonderful, summery dish. Delicious as a first course, the strata is also a great addition to a brunch buffet and it makes a tasty light dinner. Challah or brioche are best here, but sweet Italian bread works, too.

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 medium zucchini or yellow squash, or 1 of each, thinly sliced

1 red onion, thinly sliced

2 garlic cloves, minced

12 large eggs

2 cups whole milk

½ cup chopped fresh basil

2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano

1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour

¾ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 loaf challah, brioche, or sweet Italian bread (about 1 pound), torn into bite-size pieces

8 ounces soft goat cheese, such as chèvre or brie, broken into small pieces

1/3 cup sliced pitted green olives

½ cup grated Asiago or Parmesan cheese (about 2 ounces)

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly oil a 13-by-9-inch baking dish.

Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the zucchini or yellow squash and onion and cook for 4 minutes, or until slightly softened. Remove from the heat and stir in the garlic. Drain off any liquid. Set aside to cool to room temperature.

In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, milk, basil, and oregano. Gradually whisk in the flour, salt, and pepper.

Spread out the bread in the bottom of the prepared baking dish. Top with half of the zucchini mixture. Scatter half of the goat cheese and olives over the vegetables. Pour the egg mixture over all. Top with the remaining vegetables, goat cheese, and olives and press them gently into the egg mixture. Sprinkle with the grated cheese.

Bake for 45 minutes, or until a knife inserted in the center comes out clean. Let stand for 10 minutes before cutting. Serve warm or at room temperature.

VARIATIONS

Make this dish year-round, preferably with whatever is in season. Vary the cheese, as well. For the fall, try broccoli, cauliflower, and Cheddar. In the spring, use sliced snow peas and baby carrots with Swiss cheese.

HERB
AND
FLOWER–CRUSTED HALIBUT

MAKES
4
SERVINGS

The herbs and blossoms coating this fish not only look spectacular, but also add a summery flavor to the light broth and peas beneath it. At Flea St. Café, we serve this over buttermilk-mashed potatoes, a heavenly mix.

½ cup chopped fresh Italian parsley

¼ cup chopped organically grown edible flower petals, such as calendula, nasturtiums, roses, or onion or chive blossoms

2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives

2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano

½ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 halibut fillet (1½ pounds), cut into 4 pieces

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 cup chicken, vegetable, or fish broth

¼ teaspoon saffron threads

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 pound fresh peas, shelled, or 1 cup frozen peas, thawed

In a shallow bowl, combine the parsley, flower petals, chives, basil, oregano, salt, and pepper.

Place the halibut in the flower and herb mixture, pressing the fish to thoroughly coat both sides. Set aside.

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the halibut and cook for 4 minutes on one side. Turn over the halibut and pour in the broth. Add the saffron and garlic. Simmer for 5 minutes, or until the halibut is just opaque and the broth is reduced by half. During the last minute or so, add the peas.

Remove the pan from the heat. Place 1 fish fillet in each of 4 shallow soup bowls. Divide the broth and peas evenly among the bowls.

VARIATIONS

Substitute salmon or any mild, firm fish fillet for the halibut. Whenever possible, try to buy line-caught, wild fish.