Sunny's Kitchen (5 page)

1
Soak the catfish and oysters.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs, milk, 1 tablespoon water, cayenne pepper, a pinch of salt, and a few grinds of black pepper. Add the oysters and catfish and soak at room temperature for 30 minutes.

2
Prepare the coating.
In a large paper bag, combine the flour, cornmeal, a hefty pinch of salt, and a few grinds of black pepper. Close the bag and shake to mix.

3
Make the grits.
In a medium pot over medium-high heat, combine 3 cups water, a pinch of salt, and a few grinds of black pepper. Bring the water to a boil, then stir in the grits and milk. Bring to a boil again, then reduce to a simmer and cook for about 4 minutes. When the grits begin to thicken but there is still plenty of moisture left, add the mozzarella, Cheddar, and scallions. Stir to melt the cheese, taste, and season with more salt if needed. Turn off the heat and cover to keep the grits warm. If they thicken, you can loosen them with water or milk.

4
Dredge and fry the oysters and fish.
In a large heavy-bottomed pot or fryer, pour enough oil to fill the pan halfway. Heat until a deep-frying thermometer reaches 360°F. Using a slotted spoon and working in batches, remove the oysters and fish from the egg mixture and drop into the paper bag. Close and shake. Transfer each floured batch to a plate and repeat with the rest of the oysters and fish. Then fry the oysters and fish in batches so they are not overcrowded. Cook, turning once, until golden and cooked through, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a paper towel–lined plate and season lightly with salt. Serve on top of a bowl of the creamy grits and add a shake or two of hot sauce on top.

 

tips!
You can soak the oysters and fish in milk for up to 1 hour for a less fishy flavor.
•
Clams work great in this recipe, too.
•
If you have leftover cold grits, just add a splash of chicken stock, milk, or water and use a potato masher to vigorously break up the grits as you reheat them.

i
wasn’t born in Texas, but I got there as quick as I could. That’s a paraphrase of a bumper sticker I saw as my family drove into the state for the first time in 1989. It was the summer before my freshman year in high school and I had no idea what to expect from the state where reportedly “everything is bigger.” Breakfast sure is bigger in Texas. Inspired by ranch hands who needed to start the day with plenty of fuel, huevos rancheros are hearty. The oozing yolk of the sunny-side up egg, the velvety black beans, the crispy tortillas, the tang from the fresh lime juice, and the heat of the salsa—the combination just works. When you’ve cleaned your plate, you should be ready to herd cattle, children, or piles of work.
SERVES 4

1
Make the black bean sauce.
In a saucepan over medium heat, combine the oil, onion, a pinch of salt, and several hefty grinds of black pepper. Cook, stirring, until the onion is tender, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes, cumin, garlic, and hot sauce. Stir and cook until the skins begin to peel off the tomatoes and the garlic becomes tender, about 8 more minutes. Add the black bean soup and bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer for 10 minutes. Stir the pot a bit to make sure the beans don’t stick, then keep them warm over low heat.

2
Fry the corn tortillas.
In a straight-sided skillet, heat about 1 inch of oil over medium heat until it begins to swirl. Cook the tortillas 1 or 2 at a time, flipping halfway through, until the centers begin to bubble and the edges become golden, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a paper towel–lined plate.

3
Make the eggs.
Melt the butter in a large nonstick pan over low heat. If the butter browns, the heat is too high, so wipe out the pan and start over. Once the butter is melted, crack each egg into the pan, making sure they don’t run into each other. You may have to divide the butter and do this in batches or separate pans. I prefer to make mine in a small pan, one at a time, and often do what I call “Frankenyolking.” Raise the heat to medium-low and cook until the whites are completely cooked and the yolks are still runny, 8 to 10 minutes. At no time should the whites begin to bubble on the edges; keep the heat low enough that the edges don’t brown or become crisp.

4
Prepare the plate.
Place two overlapping tortillas on a plate and pour a scoop of the black bean sauce over them. Top each tortilla with a sunny-side up egg, or one Frankenyolked egg for the entire plate. Sprinkle a pinch of salt on each yolk. Top with a sprinkle of cilantro leaves and red onion slices. Place a few slices of avocado on the side along with a few lime wedges for spritzing. Drizzle a spoonful of the salsa on top.

Make the salsa verde.
Place the tomatillos, onion, jalapeño, and garlic in a large pot, cover with 1 inch of water, and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook for 5 to 8 minutes, or until the tomatillos are mushy. With a slotted spoon, transfer solids to a blender or food processor. Add the cilantro and lime juice and blitz until as smooth as possible. If needed, spoon in a bit of the poaching water to help it along. Taste and season with a pinch of salt and sugar to balance.

 

tips!
Scrambled eggs or whites also work great here.
•
“Frankenyolking” is simply using one whole egg then adding the separated yolk of another to make a two-yolk egg.

h
ash is the home of “kitchen sink” cooking. On the weekend I make hash as a pantry and refrigerator cleanout, to great success. I might find the chicken breast left over from dinner, a few sausage links in the meat drawer, some vegetables on their last days, a potato or two from the pantry, and then I chop away. On one occasion I had no potatoes, but I did have a green plantain, so I threw it into the mix and discovered a fabulous starchy addition to hash. Truly a great personal moment in pantry cleaning history!
SERVES 4

1
Start the hash.
Remove the casing from the chorizo and put in a large pan over medium heat. Vigorously break up the sausage into little bits with a potato masher or wooden spoon as it cooks. Once it resembles ground meat, add the plantain. Sprinkle with a tiny pinch of salt and a few grinds of black pepper. Toss to coat everything in the fat and allow to cook without stirring for a few minutes to develop color on the plantains, then toss and wait again. Cook this way until the plantains are caramelized on most sides and tender, and the chorizo is browned, about 15 minutes.

2
Finish the hash.
Add the thyme, garlic, scallion, and jalapeños. Toss to coat and cook, stirring, until the garlic is tender and fragrant, about 5 minutes. Add the chicken and stir to coat.

3
Make the gravy and garnish.
For this step use a wooden spoon. Sprinkle the flour over the top of the hash and stir in until it disappears, then cook for a few more minutes to remove the flour taste. Add the Worcestershire sauce and orange juice. Continue to stir, allowing the juices to thicken. Remove from the heat and stir in the sour cream. Garnish with parsley.

i
love crunchy chicken and sweet waffles separately, but the magical combination reminds me of my six-month stint as a Californian. I lived outside of Los Angeles, but every time I had a meeting in the city, I was more excited about going to Roscoe’s House of Chicken and Waffles on Pico and La Brea, then on the way home stopping at Lucy’s Drive In at the same intersection. Even though this was a stressful time in my life, the promise of bookending my meetings with good food made it way better. This casserole’s lemony crust is one of my favorite casserole toppings developed in my kitchen.
SERVES 6