The Arabesk Trilogy Omnibus (110 page)

“All of them,” said Raf.

“All?” The elderly Madagascan eyeballed his newest recruit for a long second, then slapped Raf on the shoulder. “Misfits are good,” he said, his Arabic thicker than coffee grounds, “they stay longer.”

Everything Raf had learnt at Café Antonio was unlearnt at Maison Hafsid. At Hafsid no one ever served swordfish or blackened chicken, even if customers asked politely. Right now Raf’s job was to braise those chunks of lamb (bone and fat and skin and all). The ironically crude chunks reached the table drizzled with a custard-yellow sauce made from cloudberries flown in from Table Mountain. Given the price Maison Hafsid charged for its speciality dishes, Raf could only imagine the berries travelled first class.

“Faster,” Edvard barked.

Raf nodded, but the chef was shouting at someone else.

On a marble slab to Raf’s left were a series of bowls filled with herbs and spices, which a kid of about eleven kept topped on a regular basis by ripping handfuls of wilting oregano from fat twigs or grating nutmeg against a tiny grid hung on a string around his neck. Raf used a lot of oregano and nutmeg; also olive oil, anchovies, dried juniper berries and small pods for which Raf didn’t yet have a name. The chef seemed to use those in almost every dish.

A great aluminium pot roiled on the edge of a hundred degrees at a station behind Raf, creating its own microclimate, waiting to soften whatever pasta was required. Linguine mostly, with a weird locally made thread noodle that came semiopaque and ended up near invisible; not that much of either got eaten to judge from the quantity scraped from dirty plates into a metal trough that ran the edge of one wall. The noodles and pasta seemed to be something between a base and a garnish.

“A hand to six…”

The chef’s eyes found Raf, who held up five fingers and nodded. Five minutes to braise the lamb for table six and pass it across for plating. That was the difference between home cooking and doing it for real. Restaurant food got dressed, just like the customers. And an artistic sprig or a near-odourless/tasteless swirl of sauce could hide culinary sins as easily as discreet makeup and good clothes could hide sins of the flesh. Warm plates, flamboyant furnishings, elegant garnishes and adequate food, the demands of haute cuisine at Maison Hafsid were less than its devoted clientele imagined.

“Three,” shouted the chef and Raf swirled his pan, smelling oil, seared flesh and oregano. Across the other side of the cellar was a wood oven for which Raf sometimes seared lamb or beef to be roasted, so that no steam from raw meat might dampen the oven’s desertlike dryness. It wasn’t really Raf’s job but Raf was racking up favours, taking shifts he didn’t want, helping to hump crates too heavy for one person alone. He’d even rescued a cucumber sauce for wild greyling with a nylon sieve, a splash of Chablis and nerves of steel, decanting it onto a warm plate seconds ahead of the plate heading for the hatch.

Mind you, Raf probably wouldn’t be forgiven that one. The sauce came from an Algerian sous-chef and the deputy was less than happy. Particularly now Chef Edvard had decided Isabeau’s earlier boast about Raf’s having been a sous-chef himself in Seattle was true.

To test the claim, Raf had been handed a red fish of a species he’d never seen and been told, in front of a watchful kitchen, to find a knife and fillet the thing.

Pulling a Sabatier from the back of his belt, Raf oiled up a sharpening block and set about giving himself an edge. All the while checking the fish, noticing its every curve and the geometric relationship between anus, eyes and upper fin, the way the scales changed near the tail.

When Raf cut, it was swift, taking his stance and the looseness of his wrist from a Sushi master who ran a dockside café his old boss Hu San often frequented. Raf spent one memorable evening there near the beginning of his time with the Five Winds, as Seattle’s most influential triad was named. And for a while, with tiny dish after dish reaching their table and Hu San chewing in silence, her eyes closing at particularly impressive slivers of raw fugu, Raf thought he was in disgrace. And then, when she looked up and smiled almost without thinking, he realized she intended to sleep with him.

He still hadn’t started to shave and she was in her late thirties, maybe more, but her tastes were for the raw and the fresh. Whatever, the moment never arose and as her Lincoln pulled up outside his flat Hu San dismissed him with a polite good-bye and left him standing on a sidewalk in the rain.

Raf cut three times in all. Once to gut the fish and discard its entrails. Once to fillet one side of the fish and once to fillet the other. The skin he’d already removed in a single scoop of his thumb, not using his knife and not damaging the flesh.

“Done?” Chef Edvard had asked, his face impassive.

Raf nodded and waited while the chef told a boy to fetch a set of scales. First Edvard weighed the entrails, then both fillets and finally bones and skin.

“Not as bad as I expected.”

Behind his eyes Raf scowled but he kept silent, eyeing a strip of skin so clean it could have been sent for tanning. Not a flake of flesh clung to the spine or ribs, the cut at tail and gills was near perfect.

“I’m out of practice,” Raf announced finally and the skeletal chef almost smiled.

Then came three questions.

Where had he cooked before?

Raf named Antonio’s pizza place and a five-star hotel in Seattle so famous that even the silent and anxious Isabeau recognized its name.

“This true?”

That question was for Isabeau. Asked almost politely. No one had said anything to Raf but he’d caught the glances. There wasn’t a single person in the kitchens unaware of her brother’s murder. Even Chef Edvard was making allowances.

“He’s been working for Antonio,” she said. “I can’t guarantee the other.”

“Why do you want to change jobs?”

“Debts,” said Raf. “Waiting to be paid.”

“I work my staff harder,” Chef Edvard told Raf flatly. “Believe me I make you sweat for every extra cent.”

And so the slot became his, at least until Idries’ cousin got released from prison, if he did. Two points went unspoken. One, should Raf turn out okay then Edvard might keep him on anyway, and two, if Idries’ cousin was not released, then Raf had the job until someone better came along.

But first Raf had to do a day’s suds diving to show he was serious. And do it for nothing. Those were the rules. So he scraped plates, hosed them down and loaded them into a washer the size of a small truck for as long as it took for some elderly Philippino to fry his own fingers in a red-hot wok—which was about four hours. The man wanted to work on but Edvard insisted on wrapping his hand in a towel filled with ice and ordered him home. Only the promise of a full day’s pay got the crying man out of the kitchen and into a corridor that ended in steps leading up to an alley at the back. Even then someone had to walk the man up the stairs and shoo him out into the alley.

“Want me to handle his station?”

“Screw up and you’re out.”

Raf took that as a
yes
and stripped to the loose cotton trousers he’d borrowed from Antonio’s and would one day return, with luck. He took a coat someone handed him.

“Nice scars.”

The chef’s smile was mildly mocking, as if his own might prove far more impressive if only he could be persuaded to discard his white jacket with the word
Edvard
embroidered over the pocket in red silk. And to judge by the jagged seams up both wrists and a yellow callus thick as tortoiseshell at the base of one thumb anything was possible.

So Raf cut lamb and braised goat, spatchcocked quail and generally kept the meals coming, on time and done as ordered.

“It’s not a skill, you know…”

“What isn’t?”

“This shit. Being able to do everything. That’s just a design function. You telling me you can’t recognize an adaptive mechanism when you see one?”

“Hey, white boy… You okay?” Raf looked up from wiping out his iron skillet to find the tall Madagascan standing next to him, frowning. A couple of the others were staring across as well.

“Sure,” Raf said. “Just talking to myself.”

“Well,” said Chef Edvard, “when you’ve got a moment.”

They went to the table, an old black thing that looked as if it came from a French farmhouse that had burned down. Fire damage chewed along one edge but someone, probably years before, had scraped most of it away with the flat of a knife and put that edge to the wall.

“Drink,” Chef Edvard said, pouring Raf a glass of
marc.
“And then listen… I’ve got a job if you’re interested. You know about Kashif Pasha’s party?”

The whole of Tunis knew. At his mother’s suggestion, the Emir’s eldest son was holding a dinner to celebrate his parents’ forty-fifth wedding anniversary. If both of them turned up, it would be the first time they’d met in slightly over forty-four years. The meal was Kashif Pasha’s attempt to heal the rift, a peace offering to his father and a sign of the pasha’s developing maturity where the Emir was concerned. That was the official version anyway.

“You want me to cook?”

Amusement tinged the old man’s eyes. “You’re not that good,” he said. “You wait tables… Still interested?”

“Oh yes,” said Raf, “it’s exactly the kind of opportunity I’ve been waiting for.”

Juggling a fat cowpat of harissa in her hands, Isabeau tried to stop it from dripping oil onto her jeans. Chef Edvard preferred dry mix that needed added oil but none Isabeau and Raf had seen in Marché Central looked good enough, so she’d bought freshly made paste.

That was a difference between them, Raf decided. If the old Madagascan had sent him to buy dried harissa, then that’s what Raf would have bought. The best he could find from the range available. However, he was there to buy lamb. And talk to Isabeau.

Raf sighed.

“What?” Isabeau asked.

“Chef Edvard’s worried about you…” He shrugged. “Everyone’s worried. So if you need to take time off, maybe go back to Tarbarka?” Raf named a town on the northern coast. The only town in Ifriqiya where descendents of French colonists still outnumbered residents of Arab and Berber stock.

“That’s why we were sent out together? So you can suggest I go home to my grandmother?”

“In a way.”

“Yeah,” said Isabeau, “I can see everyone liking that. Solves the problem doesn’t it? Isabeau’s gone off the rails so let’s send her somewhere else…” Isabeau’s voice was loud enough to make a man standing by the shellfish stall stop shovelling cracked ice onto a marble tray and watch them instead, iron trowel poised in his hand.

“I don’t think chef meant it like that,” Raf said.

“Really?” said Isabeau. “How did he mean it?”

“He’s trying to help.”

“No one can help,” Isabeau said fiercely. “What’s happened has happened. Pascal is dead. Nothing anyone can do will bring him back. I have to live with that fact.” Tears were rolling down her face, glittering trails of misery. “Nothing can make it better.”

Carrying a cape of lamb over one shoulder, Raf watched the crowds part to let him through rather than risk having blood dragged across their clothes. The floor of the indoor market beneath his boots was wet with melted ice and slick with tomatoes dropped and trodden to pulp, the green walls sticky with handprints and streaked with condensation. He walked ahead at Isabeau’s insistence. She needed space. Time enough to get a grip on her tears.

They exited near Bab el Bahar, the city’s sea gate in the days before the ground between the medina and the Gulf of Tunis was mapped by French engineers for ersatz Parisian boulevards now old enough to be heritage sites in their own right.

The bab still functioned as the main gate into the walled heart of Tunis. By law, no buildings within the medina could be changed from one use to another. Shops remained shops and cafés remained cafés but little money existed to pay for their upkeep so even the famous suq roofs that cast whole alleys into half gloom were pitted and peeling, cracked across their roofs like lightning, sometimes actually dangerous.

There were also alleys where people lived rather than just made or sold things. And the houses that lined these looked in on courtyards just as the walled city looked in on the suqs and the surrounding ville looked in on the walled city. Within the medina were small squares, the result not of planning but of enough narrow alleys meeting to make a passing space necessary. Maison Hafsid looked onto one of these.

The entrance doors to Chef Edvard’s restaurant were studded with nails, as was usual, and with hammered strips of black iron that formed crescents, six-pointed stars and spirals, this last being reserved for the medina’s grander houses. Both doors were mirror images of the other. Crescent for crescent, spiral for spiral.

These Raf avoided, heaving the lamb carcass around to the rear, where his struggle to lift it off his shoulder without covering himself in slime was observed by Isabeau and a boy sitting in a door opposite. Aged about seven, the boy was sorting straw hats into those damaged by winter rains and those still good enough to sell.

Every city was like this. Interlocking circles, poverty and plenty. As was every life. The only difference being that no one bothered to write guides about the picturesque poverty of London or New York, Seattle or Zurich. Or if they did, it was in no language Raf read.

“Has anyone asked him if he saw anything?”

“What?” Isabeau sounded puzzled.

“That boy,” Raf said, nodding to the child who was now watching them. “Has anyone asked if he saw what…” He stopped as soon as he realized Isabeau was no longer listening. She had leaned against the wall, near the top of the stairs that led down to Maison Hafsid’s cellar kitchens, hands over her face.

“It’s okay,” said Raf, which was about as dumb a thing as anyone could say.

“No, it’s not,” Isabeau said.

Raf took the lamb and the large lump of harissa Isabeau held, neatly wrapped in its grease-proof paper, and carried them down the steps, along a short corridor and into the kitchens. He spoke to Chef Edvard, got the man’s agreement for letting him have time off to take Isabeau back to her flat, then went back to the alley. Isabeau was standing exactly where she’d been when Raf left. The boy with the hats was gone.