The Big Book of Backyard Cooking (13 page)

To serve, place cooked fish on a serving plate and top each with 1½ to 2 tablespoons of the Lime Cilantro Butter, which will start to melt and flavor fish. Arrange lime wedges and cilantro sprigs as a garnish in center of each steak.

SWORDFISH STEAKS WITH MANGO LIME

SALSA

These grilled swordfish steaks, mounded with a refreshing mango salsa, are perfect to serve when
the temperature soars. There’s another bonus that comes with this recipe–it doesn’t demand a lot
of your time. The marinade for the fish and the salsa takes about a quarter of an hour, and grilling
the swordfish is a ten-minute job.

SERVES 4

4
6-to 7-ounce swordfish steaks, ¾ to 1 inch thick

2
tablespoons olive oil, plus extra for oiling grill rack

2
tablespoons fresh lime juice

¼
teaspoon salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Mango Lime Salsa
(page 307)

Place the swordfish steaks in a shallow nonreactive dish or pan. In a small bowl, whisk together 2 tablespoons oil, lime juice, salt, and several grinds of pepper, and pour over the swordfish. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate 45 minutes or up to 2 hours.

When ready to grill fish, oil a grill rack and arrange 4 to 5 inches from heat source. Prepare grill for a hot fire (high temperature). Grill swordfish steaks about 3 to 5 minutes per side, or until fish is opaque all the way through, but still flaky. Watch carefully, as cooking time can vary depending on the thickness of the fish.

Arrange fish on a platter. Divide salsa evenly and mound on each of the fillets.

Typically, a person will endure three mosquito bites before deciding to put on a
repellent.

SWORDFISH WITH TOMATO-ORANGE SALSA

This attractive main course, which is low in calories, is a perfect choice for those watching their
weight. The accompanying salsa, which bursts with color and flavor, can be made several hours in
advance and looks striking served atop the grilled swordfish.

SERVES 6

¾
cup teriyaki sauce

2/3
cup dry sherry

4
teaspoons minced garlic

2
teaspoons minced peeled fresh ginger

1
teaspoon Asian sesame oil

6
5-to 6-ounce swordfish steaks, about 1 inch thick

Vegetable oil for oiling grill rack

Tomato-Orange Salsa
(page 308)

Combine the teriyaki sauce, sherry, garlic, ginger, and sesame oil in a small saucepan. Bring marinade to a boil. Set aside to cool.

Place the swordfish in a single layer in a shallow nonreactive dish. Pour marinade over the swordfish; turn to coat evenly. Cover and refrigerate fish 1½ hours, turning often.

Oil a grill rack and arrange 4 to 5 inches from heat source. Prepare grill for a hot fire (high temperature). Remove fish from marinade. Grill 3 to 5 minutes per side until fish is opaque all the way through, but still flaky. Do not overcook or fish will be dry. Transfer fish to a platter. Serve with Tomato Orange Salsa. (You may have some salsa left over; save for another use.)
Mosquitos are attracted to dark clothing so it’s best to wear light clothes when
outdoors.

PEPPER AND CORIANDER–COATED TUNA

STEAKS

A sprinkling of orange zest and chopped parsley contrasts well with the spicy crushed coriander
seed and cracked pepper crust on these tuna steaks. Tomato and Fennel Salad with Fennel Seed
Dressing
(page 191)
and Sesame-Scented Sugar Snaps
(page 161)
are good side-dish possibilities.

SERVES 6

¼
cup coriander seeds, coarsely crushed

1
tablespoon dark brown sugar

2
teaspoons coarsely ground black pepper

3
tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

3
tablespoons grated orange zest (5 to 6 large thick-skinned oranges) Vegetable oil for oiling grill rack and brushing tuna

6
6-ounce tuna fillets, about ¾ inch thick

Kosher salt

Mix coriander, sugar, and pepper in a small bowl and stir well to blend. (This spice mixture can be prepared 8 hours ahead. Cover and store at room temperature.)

When ready to grill tuna, prepare the garnish. Mix the chopped parsley and orange zest together in a small bowl and set aside.

Oil a grill rack and arrange 4 to 5 inches from heat source. Prepare grill for a hot fire (high temperature). While grill is heating, brush the tuna on all sides lightly with vegetable oil and sprinkle on both sides lightly with salt. Coat the tuna steaks on both sides with the spice mixture. Grill tuna until just a thin line of pink remains in center of each steak, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Watch carefully so that tuna is not overcooked and becomes dry.

Remove to a serving platter and spoon some of the parsley and orange zest mixture on top of each serving.

TUNA STEAKS TOPPED WITH WARM

SHIITAKE MUSHROOMS

These grilled tuna steaks mounded with sautéed shiitakes are fairly low in fat, but definitely high
in flavor. Orange, garlic, and ginger make complementary seasonings for the mushrooms, which
can be cooked ahead and reheated. Grilled Asparagus
(page 134)
and Sesame and Ginger
Coleslaw
(page 178)
are good partners for the tuna.

SERVES 4

3
tablespoons vegetable oil, plus extra for oiling grill rack

2
small cloves garlic, peeled and crushed, plus 1 teaspoon minced garlic
8
ounces shiitake mushrooms, cleaned, stemmed, and caps cut into ¼-inch strips
1
cup reduced-sodium chicken stock

2
teaspoons minced peeled fresh ginger

1
teaspoon soy sauce

¼
cup chopped green onions including 2 inches of green stems

3
teaspoons grated orange zest, divided

Freshly ground black pepper

Kosher salt

4
6-ounce tuna steaks, about ¾ inch thick

2
teaspoons chopped fresh cilantro or flat-leaf parsley

Combine 3 tablespoons oil and crushed garlic in a medium, heavy skillet over low heat. Heat slowly until garlic barely begins to color and is fragrant, 3 to 4 minutes. Be careful not to let garlic burn. Strain and discard garlic and pour half of the oil into a small bowl; set aside.

Return skillet with remaining garlic oil to medium-high heat, and when oil is hot, add mushrooms. Sauté, stirring, until mushrooms are softened, lightly browned, and begin to stick to pan.

Add stock and bring to a boil. Cook, stirring occasionally, until stock has reduced by half, about 3

minutes. Add ginger, soy sauce, and the minced garlic. Continue to cook, stirring constantly, until almost all of the liquid has evaporated and mushrooms are very soft, 2 to 3 minutes more. Remove skillet from heat and stir in green onions and 2 teaspoons of the orange zest. Taste and season with several grinds of black pepper and salt, if needed. (The mushrooms can be prepared 3 hours ahead; reheat stirring over medium heat, then cover loosely with aluminum foil to keep warm.) When ready to grill tuna, oil a grill rack and arrange 4 to 5 inches from heat source. Prepare grill for a hot fire (high temperature). Brush the steaks lightly on both sides with reserved garlic oil, then salt and pepper them generously. Have the warm mushroom relish nearby. Grill tuna until just a thin line of pink remains in center of each steak, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Do not overcook or tuna will be dry.

To serve, place steaks on a platter. Top each with some warm mushroom relish and sprinkle with remaining orange zest and the cilantro.

LANG’S GRILLED OYSTERS

While on vacation in North Carolina’s Outer Banks, my friend Lang Bell went to a local fish
market and was so smitten with a display of fresh oysters that he bought far more than his family
could bear to shuck. When he returned to the store to ask what to do with the excess oysters, the
fishmonger suggested grilling them, explaining that when placed over an open fire, oysters open
on their own. My friend became an enthusiastic fan of cooking the shellfish with this method and
shared his discovery with me. Tomato Fennel Confetti
(page 316)
is a festive garnish that pairs
beautifully with the warm oysters.

SERVES 6 WITH 6 OYSTERS EACH

3
dozen oysters in the shell

Tomato Fennel Confetti
(page 316)

Arrange a grill rack 4 to 5 inches from heat source. Prepare a grill for a hot fire (high temperature), making certain if there are vents on the top and bottom chambers of the grill that they are open.

Scrub the oysters with a brush under cold running water. Discard any opened shells, which indicate the oyster is dead.

When grill is hot, place the oysters with their flat sides up on the rack. Cover the grill and cook 6 to 9 minutes, until the oysters begin to open about ¼ inch. Using tongs, remove the oysters onto a platter as they open, taking care not to spill the oysters’ juices. Be careful, since the oysters will be very hot and give off steam.

Wearing kitchen mitts, pry the oysters the rest of the way open using an oyster knife or a paring knife. If you are worried about losing the juice, open oysters over a shallow bowl to catch the juices.

Sever the muscles that connect the oysters to their shells, and leave the oysters in the cupped sides of the shells. You can pour any collected juice over the oysters.

Spoon 1½ to 2 teaspoons of the Tomato Fennel Confetti over each of the oysters. Serve immediately while oysters are still warm.

GRILLED LOBSTER TAILS WITH CITRUS

BUTTER

Lobster tails are delicious and attractive when cooked on the grill. Their shells turn a bright
orange and are lightly charred after several minutes over a hot fire, while their flesh cooks to an
opaque whiteness. A clean, refreshing citrus-flavored butter, which can be made a day ahead and
reheated, is perfect for drizzling over the lobster meat.

SERVES 4

Vegetable oil for oiling grill rack

4
⅓-to ½-pound lobster tails

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Warm Citrus Butter
(page 323)

1
bunch watercress for garnish (optional)

Orange wedges for garnish (optional)

Oil a grill rack and arrange 4 to 5 inches from heat source. Prepare grill for a hot fire (high temperature).

Lay the lobster tails, shell-side down, on a work surface, and with a sharp pair of kitchen scissors or shears, cut off the transparent shells covering the tail meat. Start cutting along one side of the shell and continue around the tail fin section and up the other side. Salt and pepper the exposed lobster meat lightly and brush with some of the Warm Citrus Butter.

When grill is ready, place lobster tails, shell-side down, over the hot fire. Cook 10 minutes, or until the shells become bright orange. Turn and cook 5 to 10 minutes more or until flesh is opaque.

Total cooking time will depend on the size of the lobster tails and the intensity of the heat. Watch carefully so you do not overcook lobsters and end up with dry, tough meat.

Remove to a platter and arrange tails flesh-side up. Garnish platter with several clusters of watercress and orange wedges, if desired. Pour Warm Citrus Butter into 4 small bowls. Serve each lobster tail with a bowl of butter for drizzling or for dipping.

BARBECUED SHRIMP IN THEIR SHELLS

This dish has been among my family’s all-time favorites for years. I’ve lost track of where the
original recipe came from, but over many summers I’ve fine-tuned the directions. I always use
large unshelled shrimp and marinate them in a cooked mixture of butter, white wine, garlic, and
green onions. Later, the marinade is reheated, strained, and reserved for use as a sauce. The
shrimp, grilled until coral pink and curled, are served piled high on a platter. They are peeled at
the table, then dipped into the warm butter sauce.

SERVES 6

18
green onions (3 bunches), divided

12
tablespoons (1½ sticks) unsalted butter

12
medium cloves garlic, chopped

1⅓
cups dry white wine

2
tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1
teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1½
pounds large shrimp in the shell, legs removed (see note)

1
cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, divided

Vegetable oil for oiling grill rack

½
teaspoon Tabasco sauce, plus more if needed

Salt

1
lemon, cut into 6 wedges for garnish

Chop the green onions, including 2 inches of the green stems, and reserve 2 tablespoons for the garnish.

Melt the butter in a heavy nonreactive casserole over medium-low heat. Add the onions and garlic and cook, stirring, 3 minutes. Add the wine and simmer 15 minutes to blend flavors. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the lemon juice and pepper. Set aside to cool to room temperature.

Using a paring knife, cut the shrimp down the back and devein, but do not peel. Toss the shrimp and ¾ cup of the parsley in the cooled butter mixture. Refrigerate, covered, 6 hours or overnight, turning occasionally.

When ready to grill shrimp, oil a grill rack and arrange 4 to 5 inches from heat source. Prepare grill for a hot fire (high temperature).

Meanwhile, remove the shrimp from the marinade. Heat the marinade in a medium, heavy saucepan to liquefy, then strain. Return the strained liquid to the pan, bring it to a boil, then cook over medium-high heat 5 minutes. Stir in the Tabasco sauce. Taste, and if desired, add more hot sauce for a spicier flavor. Salt mixture to taste. Cover the sauce to keep it warm.

When grill is ready, add the shrimp. (If you have a grill basket or a cooking grate, spread the shrimp on that and then place on the grill.) Grill until shrimp curl up and turn pink, 4 to 5 minutes total, turning once. Do not overcook, or the shrimp will become tough and the shells will be hard to remove.