The Canning Kitchen (2 page)

The stated processing time should also be followed carefully, as some higher-density foods such as whole tomatoes and apricot halves, as well as foods near the acid/low-acid pH borderline, need a longer processing time. Jar size also plays a role in processing times, so use the jar size recommended in each recipe.

Do I have to sterilize my jars before filling them?

No, not for the recipes in this book. Current North American home canning guidelines from the United States Department of Agriculture and the National Center for Home Food Preservation state that canning jars do not need to be sterilized if they will be processed in a boiling water bath canner for 10 minutes or longer. Since all the recipes in this book are processed for at least 10 minutes, you do not need to sterilize your jars before you fill them. However, it is important to start with spotlessly clean jars that have been washed in hot soapy water and left to air-dry or washed in the dishwasher on a normal wash cycle.

Jar sterilization was standard for the old open kettle canning method, in which the filled jars would be left to seal on their own without further processing. The open kettle method, as well as the oven canning method, are not recommended by North American food safety agencies because these methods may not achieve high enough temperatures to kill microorganisms that can cause food spoilage.

Can I reuse jars and lids?

Jars can be reused indefinitely as long as they are in good shape. Check for chips and scratches before reusing, as damaged jars may not form a vacuum seal and can break during processing. Screw bands can be reused as long as they are
free of rust and dents. Flat lids, however, should be used only once because the sealing compound can’t be relied on to form a seal more than once. Flat lids can be purchased in boxes of a dozen or more.

What is the difference between boiling water bath canning and pressure canning?

Boiling water bath canning, which involves boiling filled jars under water for a specified time, is safe for acid foods and mixtures with a pH of 4.6 or lower, such as fruit jams, fruit jellies, chutneys, relishes, pickles and tomatoes with adequate acidity from added lemon juice, vinegar or citric acid. Pressure canning, which uses a lockable pot with vents to control pressure, must be used for canning low-acid foods (those with a pH higher than 4.6), such as meats, poultry, fish and vegetables. This book contains boiling water bath canning recipes only, since all the recipes are for acid foods or mixtures with a pH of 4.6 or lower.

Can canned food be dangerous?

Boiling water bath canning is very safe if you follow current canning guidelines and a trusted recipe. The only foods that should be boiling water bath canned are acid foods such as fruit jams, fruit jellies, marmalades, pickles, chutneys, relishes and other acid mixtures at or below 4.6 pH. Botulism, caused by the soil-based bacterium
Clostridium botulinum
, is serious. The spores are heat-resistant and grow in moist low-acid, low-oxygen environments. You can safely use boiling water bath canning for all the recipes in this book because they are all for acid foods and mixtures.

Just as with fresh food, proper storage is important to prevent foodborne illness. Before storing your processed jars, allow them to cool completely, then check for a good seal by pressing down on the middle of the lid. If the centre of the lid is down and stays concave when pressed, the jar has sealed and the contents are safe to keep at room temperature for up to 1 year. If the centre of the lid pops up and down when pressed, or if the lid moves in any way, the jar hasn’t sealed. An unsealed jar should be stored in the refrigerator and consumed first.

Do I have to work in large batches?

Not at all. In fact, most jams require only about 3 lb (1.4 kg) of fruit, resulting in about half a dozen 250 mL (1 cup) jars at a time. Other recipes, such as chutneys, relishes and sauces, usually contain more ingredients in slightly larger
volumes. The recipes in this book are designed to leave you with just enough jars to make your efforts worthwhile and have a couple of jars extra to share or give away as gifts.

To keep costs low, use ingredients when they are in season at good prices. Buy directly from farmers and visit U-picks. Ingredients can even be free. Ask a friend or neighbour if you can pick their untended fruit trees in exchange for some of the delicious preserves you’ll make. With a little space, you can even start your very own canning kitchen garden, growing things like pickling cucumbers, tomatoes, rhubarb and strawberries.

If I want to make more, can I double a recipe?

It depends what type of preserves you are making. Jams, jellies and marmalades should always be made in small batches, as they require adequate surface area for evaporation and can bubble up to double their volume while cooking. Similarly, recipes that require a longer cooking time, such as chutneys, fruit butters and barbecue sauces, may not achieve adequate reduction and flavour concentration in large batches. Generally, pickles and relishes can be safely doubled.

What is pectin?

Often mistaken for a preservative or an animal-based product (that’s gelatin), pectin is a naturally occurring fibre found in most plant cells. Pectin is activated when it’s combined with sugar in an acid mixture over high heat, producing a gel set for jams and jellies. Some fruits, such as strawberries and peaches, contain very little pectin, while other fruits, such as apples and citrus, have a lot of pectin concentrated in their seeds and skins.

Commercially available pectin is the by-product of citrus and apple juice production. The leftover pomace is processed, dried and milled into fine crystals. Although it is possible to make jams and jellies without added pectin, no-added-pectin jams and jellies can require cooking times of up to four times longer, which may cook the flavour and joy out of your fresh ingredients. Many of the jam and jelly recipes in this book use added pectin and a short cooking time to lock in the natural fresh fruit flavour, colour and texture. Where best results are achieved using the naturally occurring pectin in the ingredients, no pectin is added in the recipe.

The recipes in this book call for regular pectin powder. Commercial pectins come in powdered and liquid form, and they are not interchangeable. Generally,
powdered pectins are added early in the recipe, whereas liquid pectins are added near the end. The two forms can also require different amounts of sugar to create a gel set. I prefer to use powdered pectin because it usually comes at a better price, which is nice when I’m making a lot of preserves. Pectins also come in low-sugar and no-sugar varieties for making jams and jellies with little or no added sugar or with other sweeteners. These other powdered pectins are not suitable for the traditional jams in this book.

How do I make sure my jams, jellies and marmalades will set?

Since jams, jellies and marmalades are hot and liquid when they are ladled into jars, it can be tricky to tell if they will set in a spreadable gel texture once cooled. Newer jam makers sometimes try to leave out some of the sugar in the recipe or fail to boil their preserves hard enough. Both these mistakes can lead to gel failure. By following the instructions carefully and using the right ingredients in the suggested amounts, you will be able to make the preserves of your dreams.

How to test a gel set

The freezer plate test
—Keep a small plate cold in the freezer. To test your hot preserves, spoon a small amount onto the cold plate and return it to the freezer. After 1 minute, remove the plate from the freezer and poke a finger into the preserve. If it wrinkles slightly, it will gel when it cools. If it doesn’t wrinkle, continue boiling on full heat, testing again every 1 to 2 minutes until it passes the freezer plate test.

The spoon sheeting test
—Dip a metal spoon into your cooked preserves. Hold the spoon over the pot and watch it carefully. If your preserve slides off in a sheet, it is ready to ladle into jars. If it falls off the spoon in wet drips, continue boiling on full heat, testing again every 1 to 2 minutes until it passes the spoon sheeting test.

How do I get crystal-clear jellies like I see at farmers’ markets and country fairs?

Starting with a clear fruit juice is the first step to a clear jelly. Straining off cooked fruit with a jelly bag will remove tiny fruit particles from the juice that could cloud your jelly. Also, when many fruit preserves are boiled, they foam up a lot
and develop a fruit scum on the surface. Skimming off this scum results in the clearest jellies, but it can be tricky to get it all. Before filling jars, use a wooden spoon to drag the scum gently across the surface toward you, then scoop it from the edge of the pot. If you don’t get it all, not to worry. A little left behind doesn’t affect the overall flavour of your preserves.

Can I make substitutions?

Yes and no. When it comes to main ingredients and their ratios, use what is stated in the recipe to ensure safe acid levels. Since canning is all about safe acid levels, follow the acidification amounts in the recipe. If you’d like to substitute red wine vinegar for cider vinegar, for example, be sure to always use vinegars with at least 5% acetic acid (the label will state the percentage). Experimenting with various spices, such as ground allspice instead of ground cinnamon, is also fine. Some of these substitutions and additions are suggested in the recipes.

I’ve heard that overripe produce is perfect for canning. Is this true?

Your preserves are only as good as the ingredients you start with. For the tastiest results, choose fresh fruit and vegetables at their peak, as well as fresh spices. The exception is recipes that call for bottled lemon juice to ensure safe acid levels. Bottled lemon juice has a standardized acid level, whereas the acidity of fresh lemons can vary depending on ripeness and length of storage.

Can I use frozen fruit to make jams and jellies?

Stock up on fresh food in season and freeze for canning another day when those ingredients are harder to find. Generally, foods that freeze well, such as rhubarb, peaches and berries, are reliable choices for freezing to make jams and jellies later on. It is a good idea to weigh or measure ingredients before freezing, so you know you have the right amount for the recipe you want to make. Wash food first, and when it’s frozen, store in bags or containers designed for freezer use. Label foods with the amount and date and use within 6 months. Allow frozen fruit to thaw completely before using, and don’t drain off any juices.

How long will my preserves last?

Home-canned preserves are safe to store at room temperature for up to 1 year. Clearly label your sealed jars with the contents and date, and store in a cool spot, with or without the screw bands. Excessive sunlight can discolour some preserves, so choose a spot away from windows. Once opened, store your delicious preserves in the refrigerator. Don’t consume any preserves that look or smell off or if the lid has become unsealed. When in doubt, throw it out.

How does altitude affect the canning process?

Canning at higher altitudes requires a longer processing time because of differences in atmospheric pressure. Water boils at a lower temperature as altitude rises, and lower temperatures are less effective at killing bacteria that can lead to food spoilage. Longer processing times at higher elevations make up for the lower temperature. If you don’t know what altitude you live at, check online or call your regional geological survey office. Adjust processing times as follows if you are preserving at altitudes over 1,000 feet (305 metres) above sea level.

Elevation above sea level

Up to 1,000 feet (305 metres)

1,001–3,000 feet (306–914 metres)

3,001–6,000 feet (915–1829 metres)

6,001–8,000 feet (1830–2438 metres)

8,001–10,000 feet (2439–3048 metres)

Timing adjustment

Use processing time in recipe

Add 5 minutes to processing time in recipe

Add 10 minutes to processing time in recipe

Add 15 minutes to processing time in recipe

Add 20 minutes to processing time in recipe

*Data source: National Center for Home Food Preservation

C
ANNING
K
ITCHEN
E
QUIPMENT

Any home kitchen can become a canning kitchen with the addition of a few simple tools. Which tools you will need depends on what you’re canning and how you prefer to set up your space. Over time you will find your own rhythm and method for preserving food in jars. Some people prefer tools like food processors and electric citrus juicers to speed things along, while others enjoy the ritual of preparing ingredients with a simple knife and cutting board.

Here’s an overview of the equipment commonly used in a canning kitchen. Look for these items at hardware stores, kitchen stores or wherever canning supplies are sold. Some of them are must-haves, some are needed for certain recipes, and others are just nice to have. You will already have many of these tools at home.