The Green Beauty Guide: Your Essential Resource to Organic and Natural Skin Care, Hair Care, Makeup, and Fragrances (30 page)

Juice Organics Apple Exfoliating Peel
has all the fruit acids you could think of: malic acid from organic apples, citric acid from organic lemons, glycolic acid from sugarcane, tartaric acid from . . . no, not from steak tartar, but from organic white grapes, plus aloe, glycerin, organic algae (!), and vitamins E and C. It smells heavenly and leaves skin looking even better. No preservatives, no colorants, only the fruity goodness.

Dr. Hauschka’s Cleansing Clay Mask
is a definite winner. Its formulation is simple: clay, cornstarch, witch hazel, Indian Cress extract—but results of its use are dramatic. To use, you mix a teaspoon of dry powder with any carrier you like: a toner, rose water, purified water, even green tea. The shelf life of the mask is virtually indefinite. The mask is very ecoconsciously packed, too: a solid glass jar for first-time buyers and simple cardboard bags as refills when you repurchase. Buy less, waste less.

Making Your Own Scrubs

Even the most expensive professional treatments can be duplicated right in your kitchen for a fraction of the price and without any unwanted chemicals. With homemade scrubs, you can alter the intensity of the exfoliation based on your skin’s condition. You can add new healing and soothing ingredients, and when you become confident with essential oils, you should be able to whip up a week’s supply of antiacne, antiwrinkle scrub in no time.

We will not be using any essential oils in our scrubs or masks. This is done to minimize irritation. When you rub the scrub into your skin, you cannot help but damage it, at least a microscopic bit, and the mask has to be soothing and gentle. So save your aromatherapeutic concoctions for your toners and cleansers.

Scrubs may be made in bulk, stored in glass jars in the bathroom, or, better yet, the fridge, and mixed with water or a toner as needed.

Almond
Milk Scrub

4 tablespoons of very fine almond meal

4 tablespoons white clay

1 tablespoon organic milk powder

Yield:
4 ounces

Almonds are very softening to the skin, and fine almond meal makes this scrub gentle enough to use as a regular cleanser.

Add all the ingredients to a glass jar and shake well to mix the contents. To use, pour 1 tablespoon in the palm of your hand, massage gently into the skin, rinse off with lukewarm water, and pat your skin dry.

Breakfast
Yogurt Scrub

20 g of brewer’s yeast in powder or tablets

2 teaspoons plain organic yogurt

2 teaspoons almond meal

1 teaspoon Manuka honey

Yield
:
5 ounces

Yeast stimulates the circulation and is rich in vitamin B6, while honey disinfects and calms the complexion. Prepare enough scrub for one application, and to make the most of the concentrated nurturing ingredients, leave the scrub on your face for a few minutes before rinsing off.

1. Grind the tablets of brewer’s yeast (if using tablet form) in a mortar.

2. Add remaining ingredients and mix together. Use the scrub immediately, and do not store in the refrigerator.

White for
Sake Scrub

1 organic green tea bag

5 grams white willow bark extract

120 mg of gingko biloba extract

1 cup rice bran or baby rice flakes

½ cup oatmeal

Juice of 1 ripe papaya

5 drops of grapefruit oil

Optional: 2 tablespoons sake

Yield
:
4 ounces

This mild peel, originally a creamy green version of the famous Dermalogica Daily Microfoliant, can also be prepared with sake (Japanese rice wine) for even stronger whitening results. If using sake, you will need to use the prepared mixture immediately because sake will ferment the rest of the ingredients into a smelly mush.

1. Steep a green tea bag in ½ cup of boiling water for 10 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, crush the aspirin tablets, crack open the gingko biloba extract capsule, and blend with rice bran or baby rice flakes and oatmeal.

3. Squeeze the papaya juice into the mixture and add the green tea to form a soft, but not runny, paste.

4. To preserve the mixture, add 5 drops of grapefruit oil. If using sake, add it just before you are ready to use the scrub.

Sugar
Mommy Scrub

1 tablespoon sugar

1 tablespoon olive oil

3 drops rose oil

1 drop vanilla extract

Yield:
5 ounces

This scrub will impress you with how well it works. There is a commercial product just out on the market that has sugar and olive oil as the only ingredients. The cosmetics company is charging $32 for a 10-ounce jar. However, this recipe costs pennies to make! The scrub has no shelf life and should be prepared fresh before use. Sugar babes just have to be high maintenance, don’t they?

1. Whisk all the ingredients in a glass bowl.

2. Massage the mixture all over the face and neck for 2 to 3 minutes. Rinse with warm water and a washcloth to eliminate the oil residue. Follow with a toner of your choice and moisturize.

Making Your OwnMasks

While it’s complicated to replicate a shampoo or a moisturizer at home, masks are simply crying out to be homemade. Make sure you use fresh, organic ingredients and store the mask in the fridge only for a week. If making a mask from fresh fruit, vegetables, and milk or yogurt, prepare them as needed and keep in the fridge for no longer than twenty-four hours. Do not freeze masks.

To preserve the mask for longer storage, you will need to add a least 500 mg of vitamin C and several drops of colloidal silver or grapefruit seed oil, although this last ingredient may irritate your skin.

Clay Your
Eggs Mask

2 tablespoons white clay

1 tablespoon corn flour

1 organic free-range egg white

1 drop chamomile oil

Yield
:
5 ounces

This mask works as a temporary lift while deep-cleansing and drawing out impurities from the skin. It is most suitable when you can use additional nutrition for your skin.

1. Blend the ingredients in a china bowl. Mix well to dissolve the egg white completely.

2. Apply to clean, dry face. If the paste is too thick, dilute the mixture with freshly brewed chamomile tea. Allow to dry and wash off with tepid water.

Kinky
Oatmeal Mask

1 ounce purified mineral water

3 tablespoons plain organic oatmeal

1 medium onion, peeled

Yield
:
4 ounces

Onion acts as an anti-inflammatory agent and inhibits the overproduction of collagen in acne scars, while oatmeal penetrates deeply into pores, cleansing the excessive cell buildup and clogged pores.

1. Boil the water and pour it over the oatmeal, letting it steep for five minutes.

2. Finely grind the onion in a food processor, making a smooth puree. Add it to the oatmeal while it is still warm.

3. If the mask is not thick enough, add some honey or green clay until the mask is thick enough to sit comfortably on your face. Store the mask in the fridge for one week.

Ozone Aloe
Whitening
Mask

½ peeled, sliced cucumber

2 tablespoons plain aloe juice

1 tablespoon whole-fat condensed milk

1 tablespoon honey

Yield:
5 ounces

The name of this mask comes from the fresh, sea-breezy scent of a fresh cucumber. I recommend using organic cucumber in this mask. When you start using organic fruits and vegetables in your home cosmetics, you will be amazed how rich and vivid the scents are. Experts say that the concentration of antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals is higher in organic veggies, too.

1. Blend the cucumber in a blender or food processor. Add the aloe juice, milk, and honey.

2. If the mask is too runny, add some kaolin clay until the mask forms a comfortably thick paste.

3. Apply to clean, dry face and leave on for 15 minutes or until dry. Gently wash off with tepid water.

Lemon
Cheesecake
Whitening
Mask

2 tablespoons honey

4 teaspoons lemon juice (freshly squeezed or bottled)

3 teaspoons plain or Greek-style yogurt

1 egg white

Yield:
4 ounces

In this mask, the antibacterial properties of honey are boosted with the antifungal and whitening properties of lemon. Both lemon and yogurt work as excellent natural peels, helping fade postacne marks. Egg white adds proteins that help strengthen the skin’s own defenses, while lemon and vanilla create a comforting, soothing cocoon while you linger with the mask in your bath. You can store this mask in the fridge and use it up within one week.

1. Combine all the ingredients in a bowl and whisk until the mask thickens.

2. Apply to clean, dry face and let set for 15 minutes. Gently wash off with warm water.

Custom-Tailored Facial Routines

Even after you establish a healthy routine of daily double-cleansing and effective toning, your skin needs a regular dose of high-performance special treatment. Just a half-hour a week can mean a huge difference!

Please find below several home facial routines that you can custom-tailor to your current skin condition.

Rise and
Shine Facial

This is a weekly facial routine that you can enjoy on a Saturday morning, after a long Friday night. You can also submit your skin to this intensive care if a sudden pimple pops up before an important event.

1.
Cleanse
. Wash your face with your regular cleanser. Rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water and blot dry with a fresh towel.

2.
Exfoliate
. Apply a homemade or organic exfoliating treatment based on your skin condition. Massage the scrub or peel in circular motions for two minutes. Rinse clean and pat your face dry.

3.
Steam
. Prepare an anti-inflammatory facial steam bath: boil some filtered or mineral water, pour it into a ceramic, glass, or metal bowl (careful: the bowl may get hot!), and add one drop of each
of the following essential oils: chamomile, eucalyptus, rosemary, and tea tree oil. Skip rosemary and use lemon oil instead if you are pregnant. Cover your head with a clean cotton towel and bend over the bowl. Let the vapors envelope your skin. Close your eyes and breathe slowly. Added bonus: your sinus condition will heal faster, too. Continue steaming for five minutes.

4.
Exfoliate
. When your face is still wet, apply another portion of a scrub and massage gently for two minutes. Rinse and pat the face dry.

5.
Deep-cleanse
. Apply a thin layer of a clay-based homemade or charcoal mask. Leave on until dry. Rinse clean with cool mineral water and pat the face dry. Follow with your regular toner and a moisturizer.

Acne
Freeze Facial

The following technique has a lot of shock value in it. Treat your freshly erupted pimples to this intensive procedure before an important event.

1.
Cleanse
. Wash your face with your regular cleanser. Rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water and blot dry with a fresh towel.

2.
Freeze
. Crack or crush several ice cubes and wrap them in clean gauze or a washcloth. Apply ice to the acne zit. Hold it in place for as long as you can stand the cold but no longer than 10 minutes.

3.
Treat
. Remove the ice and dot on your homemade acne medication containing lavender or tea tree oil. Repeat every four hours or so until the blemish has diminished in size and is no longer red.

Salt
Facial Lift

This temporary face-lifting facial works especially well if you have only five minutes to look five years younger. You will need some sea salt and a freezing cold bottle of mineral water.

1.
Cleanse
. Wash your face using the gentlest cleanser in your beauty arsenal. Avoid using oily cleansers or exfoliating scrubs.

2.
Salt It
. Boil a cup of mineral or filtered water. Add a teaspoon of sea salt and make sure it dissolves completely. The water must be warm but not so hot that it will burn you. Saturate a cotton ball or gauze square in the mixture, press out excess, and apply to your face, avoiding the eye area. Let the salt remain on your skin for five minutes.

3.
Tone
. Now saturate a cotton ball or gauze in ice-cold mineral water and apply to your face with very gentle pressure for 30 seconds. Blot dry.

4.
Repeat
. Repeat these steps several times, depending on how much time you have or until wrinkles and puffiness have diminished.

chapter
9

green
moisturizers

n
ow that we have learned about some of the best green cleansers and toners, and how to create natural cosmetic products at home, we are ready to seal the results with the right moisturizer. For many people, moisturizer is the most important— and most expensive—cosmetic product they own. When our skin feels unusual, we would rather replace the moisturizer than a cleanser or a toner. Many of us are on a constant quest for the “holy grail” moisturizer, and when we find one, we tend to stick to it for years, despite the changes occurring in our skin. This simply doesn’t make sense. Just as your favorite set of underwear isn’t made to last for five years, the same is true of your moisturizer: your skin changes as your body does, and not a single skin care product is made to meet the ever-changing needs of human skin.