The Hemingway Cookbook (36 page)

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Authors: Craig Boreth

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Waldo, Myra.
The Flavor of Spain
. New York: Macmillan, 1965.

SELECTED ARTICLES

Beegel, Susan. “Hemingway Gatronomique: A Guide to Food and Drink in
A Moveable Feast.” The Hemingway Review
. v4, nl, Fall 1984, pp. 14-26.

Belzer, S. A. “Savoring the Soup of Hemingway Country.”
The New York Times
. December 17, 1997, p. F13.

Benoit, Raymond. “The Complete Walker: Food and Lodging in Hemingway’s ‘Big Two-Hearted River.’”
Notes on Contemporary Literature
. v20, n3, May 1990, pp. 10-12.

Desnoyers, Megan Floyd. “Ernest Hemingway: A Storytellers Legacy.”
Prologue
, v24, n4, Winter, 1992, pp. 335-49.

Hemingway, Mary. “Life with Papa.”
Flair
, January 1951, p. 29,116-7.

Lanier, Doris. “The Bittersweet Taste of Absinthe in Hemingway’s ‘Hills Like White Elephants.’”
Studies in Short Fiction
, v26, Summer 1989, pp. 279-88.

Lyons, Nick. “Hemingway’s Many Hearted Fox River.”
National Geographic,
June 1997, pp. 106-23.

Slough, Andrew. “An Immoveable Feast.”
SKI
, v59, n3, Nov. 1994, pp. 180-7.

Solomon, Barbara, “Where’s Papa?”
The New Republic
, March 9, 1987, pp. 30-34.

Stoneback, H. R. “Memorable Eggs ‘in Danger of Getting Cold’ and Mackerel’Perilous with Edge-Level Juice’: Eating in Hemingway’s Garden.”
The Hemingway Review
, v8, n2, Spring 1989, pp. 22-29.

Underhill, Linda and Jeanne Nakjavani. “Food for Fiction: Lessons from Ernest Hemingway’s Writing.”
Journal of American Culture
, v15, n2, Summer 1992, pp. 87-90.

Vivant, Don. “Literary Drinks.”
Forbes
(FYI Supplement), v156, n10, October 23,1995, p. 162.

Wells, Reginald. “A Christmas Choice of Fair and Fancy Game.”
Sports Illustrated
, December 1955, pp. 40-3.

Acknowledgments

More often than not, I have felt like the editor of this book rather than the writer. It has been a collaborative effort in many ways, and there are several people without whose assistance this book would not have been possible.

First, my eternal gratitude goes out to all those who were genuinely enthusiastic about this book from the outset, who found some fun in helping me, and whose support helped me overcome whatever lingering doubts remained along the way: Thomas Bahr, whose trip to Schruns triggered this wild ride and whose friendship, research assistance, and interest has been invaluable; Peter Johnson, who saw through the free booze and seemed to embody the essence of this project (maybe it was just the free booze); Jack Murphy, a Hemingway fan who helped me remember why I wrote this thing in the first place; Tillie Arnold, Don Anderson, and Forrest MacMullen, all friends of Ernest from his Idaho days, whose fond memories of Papa brought the subject to life for me; and finally, Jennifer Wheeler, executive director of The Hemingway Foundation of Oak Park, who helped out so much along the way and who seems to truly love her work.

I would also like to thank the community of scholars who have dedicated much of their careers to the study of Hemingway’s life and work. I was warned at the outset of this project that “the Hemingway folks” were a tough lot. I have found them, without exception, to be scholarly, generous, forthcoming, and downright friendly. They are genuinely interested in advancing the body of work on Ernest Hemingway. In particular, I would like to thank the following: Susan Beegel, editor of the
Hemingway Review
, and Miriam Mandel, both walking Papa encyclopedias; Allen Josephs, president of The Hemingway Society and inspirer of restauranteurs; Marty Peterson; John Bittner; Charlotte Ponder; Ruth Hawkins; Walter Houk for exposing the mojito; Megan Desnoyers and Stephen Plotkin of the Hemingway Collection at the John F. Kennedy Library in Boston; Allan Goodrich at the John F. Kennedy Library; Maria Metzner; the Hemingway Foundation; Susan Buckley; Lydia Zelaya; Sam Rogal for his comprehensive research on Hemingway and food; Robert Trogden and everyone on the Hemingway E-mail-list service whose comments and debate provides an ongoing education for everyone who tunes in; Michael Reynolds and Carlos Baker, without whose brilliant biographies none of this would be possible.

Along the way, I have had the honor of meeting many wonderful and talented people who
donated their time and wisdom to this book: Juanita Bellaguer, Juan, José, and everyone at La Pepica in Valencia; Penelope Casas, grand dame of Spanish cuisine in America; Mario Leon Iriarte, owner of Dali in Cambridge; everyone at the Schlesinger Library at Radcliffe College; Sandy Block, Master of Wine; Teresa Merenges, Cuban cuisine expert and super-nice lady; Walter Nels at the Hotel Taube in Schruns; Antonio Gonzalez and the wonderful people who make Casa Botín in Madrid a magical place; Joe Faber at Capt. Tony’s in Key West; Maria Luisa Nieto Moneo in Pamplona who, had she been around in 1925, would have found a starring role in
The Sun Also Rises
; the folks at the Hostals Burguete and Loizu in Burguete; Paul Christie and Neil Palmer at Gargoyle’s on the Square; and a special thank you to Cynthia Sherry and Lisa Rosenthal-Hogarth at Chicago Review Press.

Finally, a toast to all of my friends and family who helped out along the way: Katie Sharkey; Eric S. A. Reed; Jason Soslow; Mike and Tori Palmer; Bart Laurijssens and his mom; Joan and Sandy; Gary and Sandrijn; Korina; Chris Richards; Jill and Ryan; Sean and Elana; Penny and Arnie; Harry and Phyllis; Janice and Stu; Karen Bender; Marty Jones; Martin and Margaret Bendersky; Abby Gitlitz; Ayshe Yildiz; Missy Maxfield; Steve Halloran; Jeffrey Isaacs; Joe “See ya in Church” Murphy; Eileen Boreth; M. Brad Boreth; everyone at Ben-Eve’s Beauty Salon and Fat Oscar’s Bar & Grill; and of course, my mom and dad, Bessie and Ziegfried Borethkovitz, of the Flying Borethkovitzes.

General Index

A

Across the River and into the Trees
,
18
,
26
–28,
30
–36

Adams, Nick,
12
–14

Anderson, Sherwood,
39
,
51

Anita
(boat),
112
,
132

Anoz, Matías,
89

Arnold, Lloyd,
155
–56

Arnold, Tillie,
155
–57

At the Hemingways,
7

B

Barkley, Catherine,
18
–25

Barnes, Jake,
72
,
82
–83,
85
,
90
–91

Beach, Sylvia,
39
–40

Berenson, Bernard,
129

“Big Two-Hearted River,”
12
–13

Boise (cat),
120
–22

Bourne, Catherine,
75

Bourne, David,
75

Brasserie Lipp (restaurant),
47
–48

Burguete, Hostal,
82
–83

C

Cannell, Kitty,
71

Cantwell, Richard,
26
–28,
30
–36

Capt. Tony’s Saloon,
119

Casa Botín,
97

Casa Marceliano,
89

Cipriani, Arrigo,
27
–28

Cipriani, Giuseppe,
27
–28

Civil War, Spanish,
99

Clyne, Frances,
71

D

Dangerous Summer, The
,
81
,
104

Death in the Afternoon
,
81
,
104
,
111

Dingo Bar,
62

Dominguín, Luis Miguel,
104

Dos Passos, John,
50
–51

F

Farewell to Arms, A
,
18
–25,
26
–27

“Fathers and Sons,”
145

Fiesta de San Fermín,
81
,
85
–86

Finca Vigia,
112
,
136

Fitzgerald, F. Scott,
62
–63,
65
–66

“Food for Fiction,”
25

Ford, Ford Madox,
45
,
177

For Whom the Bell Tolls
,
81
,
99
–101

Found Meals of the Lost Generation
,
71
–72

Fuentes, Gregorio,
112
,
132

G

Garden of Eden, The
,
75

Gorton, Bill,
72
,
82
–83,
85
,
88
,
90

Green Hills of Africa, The
,
111
,
146

Gritti Palace Hotel,
26
,
30

H

Harry’s Bar,
27
–28

Hatueybeer,
116

Hemingway, Clarence Edmonds (Ed),
3
,
5
–7,
14
,
145

Hemingway, Ernest

as an ambulance driver in Italy,
17
–18
birth,
3
in China,
129
in Cuba,
111
–13,
116
,
120
–24,
131
,
136
death of,
155
drinking habits,
173
on duck hunting,
27
–28
father’s influence on,
5
–7
at the French Riviera,
75
on hunger,
47
and the hunt,
145
in Key West,
111
–13,
117
,
119
love affair with Agnes von Kurowsky,
17
–18,
162
marriage to Hadley Richardson,
39
marriage to Mary Hemingway,
136
in Paris,
39
–40,
44
–45,
47
–51,
54
,
57
,
60
,
65
–66
return to Italy,
26
on safari in Africa,
146
–49,
151
–52
in Schruns (Austria),
66
–68,
71
in Spain,
81
–83
and the Spanish Civil War,
99
in Sun Valley and Ketchum, Idaho,
153
,
155
–56
traveling with F. Scott Fitzgerald,
62
–63,
65
–66

Hemingway, Grace Hall,
3
,
14

Hemingway, Hadley Richardson,
39
–40,
44
–45,
47
–51,
54
,
57
,
71

Hemingway, Joan,
156

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