The Lost Explorer (27 page)

Cerro Stanhardt, 98

Cerro Torre, 98

Chang La, 77

Charterhouse public school, 50-51, 75

Cheesmond, Dave, 27

China, 66, 69, 162

China Reconstructs
, 72, 150, 151

Chinese embassy, in Belgrade, 66

Chomolungma, 79, 175

Cho Oyu, 57, 140

Chu Yin-hua, 150-51

Clark, Liesl, 55, 56-57, 59, 61, 67-68, 69

Cliffhanger
, 61

Columbus, Ohio, 136

“coolies,” 77, 78-79

Copitko, Vasil, 93-94, 106

Copland, Erin, 55, 57, 59, 60, 61

Coval, Roman, 106

crampons, 17, 85, 124, 141, 164, 168

Crawford, Colin, 89

Cultural Revolution, 69

Czechoslovakia, 105

Daily Telegraph
(London), 64, 75

Dalai Lama, 71

Da Nuru “Dawa,” 140, 141, 143-44, 147-48, 158

Darjeeling, 21, 23, 49, 69, 81, 82, 174

Debrouwer, Pascal, 162

Denali (Mount McKinley), 13, 14, 57, 94, 99, 100, 142

dexamethasone, 95

Douglas, Lord Francis, 177

down-climbing, 157, 172

downhill alignment, of fall victims, 32, 173

Dublin, 51

Earhart, Amelia, 12

Eastern Europe, 105

East Rongbuk Glacier, 78, 80, 81, 84, 87, 113

Eiger, 83

Elbsandsteingebirge, 168

El Capitan, 98

endorphins, 104

Epic of Mount Everest, The
(Younghusband), 176, 178

Ethiopia, 59

Everest, Mallory’s 1921 expedition to, 23, 74-82

end of, 81-82

members of, 74, 75, 80, 81

newspaper coverage of, 75

reconnaissance of Everest conducted on, 75, 76-79, 84

team’s account of,
see Mount Everest: The Reconnaissance, 1921

weather conditions on, 75, 76, 77, 80-81

Everest, Mallory’s 1922 expedition to, 23, 36, 42, 82-91, 108, 116

altitude records set on, 87, 88, 124

avalanche fatalities on, 89-91, 110-11, 178

ice axe belay on, 87-88, 165

loss of Norton’s pack on, 85-86

members of, 83, 89

summit attempts made on, 86-87, 88-90, 118

team’s account of,
see Assault on Mount Everest, 1922, The

weather conditions on, 84, 86, 88

Everest, Mallory’s 1924 expedition to, 23-30, 39-53, 84, 87, 107, 108-34, 150, 175-80

altitude records set on, 24, 40, 71-72, 124-25, 126, 171

camera carried by Mallory on, 28, 35, 36, 38, 63, 129, 135, 163

clothing worn on, 21, 123, 166

final sighting of Mallory and Irvine on, 11-12, 25, 26, 39-40, 72, 130, 144, 150

first summit attempts made on, 122-28

food on, 124

Irvine as Mallory’s chosen partner on, 11, 24, 113-14, 116, 127

Irvine’s diary on, 24, 114-15, 116, 122

letters carried by Mallory on, 35, 61, 66, 67-69, 163

Mallory and Irvine roped together on, 171-72

Mallory and Irvine’s summit attempt on, 22-23, 25-28, 110, 128-34, 147, 151

Mallory’s climbing plan for, 110

Mallory’s crevasse fall on, 119

Mallory’s fatalism about, 92, 108

Mallory’s flashlight on, 36, 131, 166, 170, 176

members of, 83, 108-9

1933 discovery of ice axe from, 26

Norton and Somervell’s summit attempt on, 24

note from Mallory to Noel on, 23, 130, 166

porter problems on, 116-18, 119-21, 122

possible fate of Mallory and Irvine on, 170-74, 176

question of whether Mallory and Irvine reached the summit on, 12, 13, 15, 28, 39-40, 62-63, 69, 71, 72, 163-70, 178-80

rate of ascent on, 167, 171

sleeping bag signal on, 26, 133

sunburn suffered by Irvine on, 122-23, 128, 167, 170

team’s account of,
see Fight for Everest, The

weather conditions on, 23-24, 111, 116, 117, 119-20, 166, 169, 171

wristwatch worn by Mallory on, 139

Everest, Mount:

altitude at summit of, 23-24, 126

Conference Rock on, 142-43

difficulty of, 76, 80, 156, 162

exit cracks on, 94, 160, 171

first ascent from north claimed, 26

first official ascent of, 12

First Step of, 26, 40, 94, 125, 143-44, 145, 146, 154, 158, 161, 162, 165

fossils found on, 25, 130

Great Couloir of, 33, 72, 125-26, 150, 168

Kangshung Face of, 144, 156, 168

Mallory’s first sight of, 76

Mallory’s obsession with, 11, 24, 53, 76, 82-83, 91, 110

Mallory’s underestimation of, 80, 108, 131

memorial cairn on, 176-77

monsoon season on, 24, 27, 75, 76, 77, 80-81, 84, 89, 127, 169

mountaineers lost on, 39, 106

Mushroom Rock on, 144, 145, 147, 151, 158-59

North Col of, 54, 77, 78, 79-81, 84, 85, 89, 90, 92, 95, 104, 107, 110, 117, 118, 119, 121, 123, 124, 127, 128, 129, 140, 152, 164, 170, 178

northeast ridge of, 77, 94, 110, 142, 161-62

northeast shoulder of, 83

north face of, 17, 25, 27, 28, 39, 72, 83, 88, 89, 95

north ridge of, 28, 72, 150-51

Odell on inhospitableness of, 132-33

“old English dead” body found on, 26-27, 28, 29, 38, 72, 151, 173

oldest climbers of, 64

Plateau on, 153-54

record for most ascents of, 140

Second Step of, 26, 33, 71, 72, 85, 107, 125, 143, 144, 147, 148-53, 154, 158, 161-62, 163, 165-66, 167-69

South Col of, 72

southern approaches to, 84

South Summit of, 157

southwest face of, 39, 64

summit pyramid of, 25, 40, 80, 154

Third Step of, 154, 157, 165

Tibetan name for, 79

Yellow Band cliffs of, 94, 125, 141, 150, 158, 159-60, 164-65, 168, 170, 171-72, 173

Everest, 1999 search expedition to, 17-25, 30-38, 54-73, 78, 86, 135-60, 161-63

Anker recruited for, 29-30

burial of Mallory on, 37, 140

condition of Mallory’s body as found on, 21-22, 35, 36, 37, 139, 172-73

descent from summit by Anker and Hahn on, 157-60

DNA sample taken from Mallory’s body on, 22, 37, 64

excavation of Mallory’s body on, 33-36, 59

free-climbing of Second Step attempted by Anker on, 71, 148-53, 163, 169

Mallory’s “artifacts” found on, 35, 60-61, 66-69, 139, 162-63

Mallory’s body discovered on, 14-15, 16, 19-22, 28, 33-34, 38, 55, 56, 59, 60, 63, 66, 84

media and Internet coverage of, 29, 38, 55, 56-57, 58-66, 71, 74, 106, 162

members of, 22, 30

1924 oxygen bottle found on, 143

official title of, 96

other bodies discovered on, 32, 33, 56, 153-54, 160, 173

photographs taken of Mallory’s body on, 22, 34, 60, 61-62, 64, 66, 162

puja
ceremonies held for, 70-71

reactions and criticisms evoked by, 62-66

rescue of Ukrainian climbers on, 73, 93-96, 103-6

search vs. reaching summit as goal of, 30, 71, 135

second search of Mallory’s body on, 138-40

summit reached by Anker and Hahn on, 153-56

weather conditions on, 30, 73, 135, 143, 146, 154

Everest Committee, 74, 75, 83

Everest expeditions, 29, 30, 40, 96, 138

documentary films on, 63

1933 British, 26, 36, 131

1938 British, 26

1952 Soviet, 27

1953 Hillary?Tenzing, 12, 28, 77

1960 Chinese, 26, 72, 150-51, 168-69

1975 Chinese, 26-27, 29, 31, 38, 56, 72, 144, 148, 151, 173

1978 Habeler and Messner, 126

1979 Sino-Japanese, 26

1980 Messner, 33, 72

1986 U.S., 27

1988 Czech, 39

1985 Catalan, 169

1994 Rheinberger-Whetu, 146-47, 155, 157

1996 Indian, 153-54

1996 Japanese, 154

1999 Belgian, 161-62

1999 Polish, 161-62

1999 Ukrainian, 54, 73, 93-96, 103-6, 143, 145, 158

Everest: The Mystery of Mallory and Irvine
, 63

Eyetooth, 99-100

Faulkner, William, 20

Fight for Everest, The
, 65-66, 71, 111, 112, 118, 120, 123, 127, 132-33, 134, 164, 165, 176

Finch, George, 83-84, 88-89, 124

Firstbrook, Peter, 70

First on Everest
(Holzel and Salkeld), 27, 87, 167

Fischer, Scott, 156

fixed ropes, 30, 58, 73, 104, 141,

143-44, 147-48, 153, 159, 160, 164-65

free-climbing, 71

frostbite, 81-82, 85, 86, 88, 89, 94, 96, 104, 105, 118, 120, 146, 158, 161, 162, 172

Gamma Liaison, 61

Garcia, João, 162

Gardner, Mount, 146

Garhwal Himalaya, 83

Gasherbrum II, 138

gentleman’s belay, 72, 153, 168

Giller, Sue, 27

“glacier lassitude,” 118

glaciers, 39, 77

goggles, 125

of Mallory, 36, 62-63

Good-bye to All That
(Graves), 46

goraks, 22, 32, 35, 37

Gorbach, Volodymyr, 93-96, 103-6

Grant, Duncan, 44, 45

Graves, Robert, 46, 50, 52, 75, 179

Great Britain, 62, 63-64, 82, 162, 168

Great Smoky Mountains, 13

“Greeter, the,” 32, 173

Gurkhas, 80, 116

Gurney Peak, 97

Gyachung Kang, 140

Habeler, Peter, 126

Hahn, Dave, 22, 30, 31, 34, 37, 55, 57, 59, 60, 61, 65, 67, 68, 70, 71, 96, 105, 106, 140, 141, 143, 144, 146, 147, 148, 152, 153, 154, 155-60

Hall, Becky, 103

Harris, Percy Wyn, 26

Harvard University, 12

Hasegawa, Ryoten, 26-27

Hazard, John de Vere, 109, 116, 117, 119-20, 123, 131, 132, 133

Hemmleb, Jochen, 29, 31, 33, 56, 60-61, 63, 67, 143, 151-52, 163

Henley Regatta, 41

Herschel House, 91

Hillary, Sir Edmund, 12, 28, 60, 64, 66, 77, 102, 175

Himalaya, 21, 74, 77, 80, 98, 105

hobnailed boots, 19, 72, 139, 164

Holt, 91

Holzel, Tom, 27-28, 29, 87, 167, 170

homosexuality, 43

Howard-Bury, Charles, 74, 78, 79

“How to Get Up the Second Step—A Topo Guide” (Hemmleb), 151-52

Hunter, Mount, 98

hydration, 17, 166-67

hypothermia, 28

ice axe belay, 87-88, 119, 165

IMAX, 63

IMG (International Mountain Guides), 57-58, 142

India, 83, 108, 110

surveyor-general of, 75

Indian Creek, Utah, 153

Internet, 55-56, 58-60, 63, 65, 66, 74

intestinal disorders, 155-56

Into Thin Air
(Krakauer), 154

Ireland, 51

“ironmongery,” 165

Irvine, Andrew “Sandy,” 15, 71, 111-16, 119, 122, 135, 177

as athlete, 112, 113

background of, 112-13

character of, 111-12, 113

climbing inexperience of, 24, 109

Everest expedition of,
see
Everest, Mallory’s 1924 expedition to

Mallory’s body assumed at first to be, 19, 22, 28, 34, 55

mechanical aptitude of, 24-25, 112-13

memorial service held for Mallory and, 177-78

oxygen equipment adjusted by, 24-25, 26, 113, 114-15, 170

Irving, R. L. G., 41, 42, 50

Isle of Skye, 45

Johnson, Boris, 64

Kailas, 30

Kampa Dzong, 109

Kangchenjunga, 40, 130

Kangshung Glacier, 106

Karakoram Range, 29, 31, 98, 138, 155

Kathmandu, 30, 70, 142

Kellas, A. M., 74, 75

Keynes, Geoffrey, 44, 92

Kharta Glacier, 78, 79, 81

Khumbu Glacier, 77

Khumbu valley, 140

Kichatna Spires, 13-14, 97, 100

Kiev, 106

Kilimanjaro, Mount, 57

Kodak Vestpocket camera, of Mallory, 28, 35, 36, 38, 63, 129, 135, 163

K2, 40

Kudelski, Tadusz, 161-62

Lambert, Raymond, 72

Latok II, 31, 98

Lhakpa La, 80, 81

Lho La, 77

Lhotse, 28

Lliwedd, 41-42, 53

Lobsang (Sherpa), 122

Logan, Mount, 12

Longstaff, Tom, 83, 90, 108, 115, 178

Lowe, Alex, 102

Lunn, Arnold, 113

McKinley, Mount (Denali), 13, 14, 57, 94, 99, 100, 142

Magdalene College, Cambridge University, 40, 41, 44, 52, 69, 163

Makalu, 79

Mallory, Avie (sister), 40, 41

Mallory, Beridge (daughter), 52, 91

Mallory, George, II (grandson), 64

Mallory, George Leigh:

absentmindedness of, 41-42, 83, 129, 131, 166

“Because it is there” remark of, 50, 91

birth of, 40

Cambridge-Bloomsbury friendships of, 42-45, 92

character of, 15, 40-41, 43, 50

critical writings of, 49

education of, 40-41, 42-44

Everest expeditions of,
see
Everest, Mallory’s 1921 expedition to; Everest, Mallory’s 1922 expedition to; Everest, Mallory’s 1924 expedition to

on God, 51

guilt over 1922 avalanche fatalities felt by, 90-91, 111

height and weight of, 42

legacy of, 174-75

mechanical ineptitude of, 42, 78, 129

memorial service held for Irvine and, 177-78

mountaineering accidents of, 47-49

mountaineering skill and style of, 11, 24, 40, 41, 45-47, 53, 76, 116, 118, 164, 176

mountaineering writings of, 49-50, 65, 76, 82, 84-85, 86-87, 88, 90, 92

physical beauty of, 11, 42, 44-45

political stance of, 51

as public lecturer, 82, 92-93, 108

sexuality of, 45

as teacher, 50-51, 75, 91, 92

Mallory, John (son), 22, 37, 52, 68, 69, 91

Mallory, Mary (sister), 67, 108, 111

Mallory, Ruth Turner (wife), 67, 92, 166, 177, 179

first meeting and marriage of Mallory and, 52

Mallory’s letters to, 24, 45, 49, 51, 52, 68, 74, 76, 79, 81, 88, 91, 108, 109, 110, 112, 114, 116, 118, 119, 121, 122, 163

Mallory’s relationship with, 52, 68, 109

Mallory, Trafford (brother), 67

Matterhorn, 177

Maxim, Hiram, 113

Mellersh, Stella, 68

“Men and Mountains: The Gambler” (Mallory), 92

Merton College, Oxford University, 112

Messner, Reinhold, 33, 72, 126, 168

Meta fuel, 124

Microsoft, 59

Middle Triple Peak, 100-101