The Mammoth Book of Travel in Dangerous Places (57 page)

Tuesday, May 14
Mr. Burke and King gone up the creek to look for blacks, with four days’ provisions. Self employed in preparing for a final start on their return.
This evening Mr. Burke and King returned, having been some considerable distance up the creek, and found no blacks. It is now settled that we plant the things, and all start together the day after
tomorrow. The weather continues very fine; the nights calm, clear, and cold, and the days clear, with a breeze generally from S., but to-day from E., for a change. This makes the first part of the
day rather cold. When clouds appear they invariably move from W. to E.

Wednesday, May 15
Camp 9. – Planting the things, and preparing to leave the creek for Mount Hopeless.

Thursday, May 16
Having completed our planting, &c., started up the creek to the second blacks’ camp, a distance of about eight miles. Finding our loads rather
too heavy, we made a small plant here of such articles as could best be spared.

Friday, May 17
Nardoo. – Started this morning on a blacks’ path, leaving the creek on our left, our intention being to keep a southeasterly direction until we
should cut some likely-looking creek, and then to follow it down. On approaching the foot of the first sand-hill King caught sight in the flat of some nardoo seeds, and we soon found that the flat
was covered with them. This discovery caused somewhat of a revolution in our feelings, for we considered that with the knowledge of this plant we were in a position to support ourselves, even if we
were destined to remain on the creek and wait for assistance from town. Crossing some sand-ridges running N. and S., we struck into a creek which runs out of Cooper’s Creek, and followed it
down. At about five miles we came to a large waterhole, beyond which the watercourse runs out on extensive flats and earthy plains. Calm night; sky cleared towards morning, and it became very cold.
A slight easterly breeze sprang up at sunrise, but soon died away again. The sky again became overcast, and remained so throughout the day. There was occasionally a light breeze from south, but
during the greater portion of the day it was quite calm. Fine halo around the sun in the afternoon.

Saturday, May 18
Camp No. 16. Calm night, sky sometimes clear and sometimes partially overcast with veil clouds.

Tuesday, May 21
Creek.

Wednesday, May 22
Cooper’s Creek.

Friday, May 24
Started with King to celebrate the Queen’s birthday by fetching from Nardoo Creek what is now to us the staff of life. Returned at a little after two
p.m., with a fair supply, but find the collecting of the seed a slower and more troublesome process than could be desired. Whilst picking the seed, about eleven o’clock a.m., both of us heard
distinctly the noise of an explosion, as if of a gun, at some considerable distance. We supposed it to have been a shot fired by Mr. Burke; but on returning to the camp found that he had not fired
nor had heard the noise. The sky was partially overcast with high cum. str. clouds, and a light breeze blew from the east, but nothing to indicate a thunderstorm in any direction.

Monday, May 27
Started up the creek this morning for the depôt, in order to deposit journals and a record of the state of affairs here. On reaching the sand-hills
below where Landa was bogged I passed some blacks on a flat collecting nardoo seed. Never saw such an abundance of the seed before. The ground in some parts was quite black with it. There were only
two or three gins and children, and they directed me on, as if to their camp, in the direction I was before going; but I had not gone far over the first sand-hill when I was overtaken by about
twenty blacks, bent on taking me back to their camp, and promising any quantity of nardoo and fish. On my going with them, one carried the shovel, and another insisted on taking my swag, in such a
friendly manner that I could not refuse them. They were greatly amused with the various little things I had with me. In the evening they supplied me with abundance of nardoo and fish; and one of
the old men, Poko Tinnamira, shared his gunyah with me . . . The night was very cold, but, by the help of several fires –

Tuesday, May 28
Left the blacks’ camp, and proceeded up the creek. Obtained some mussels near where Landa died, and halted for breakfast. Still feel very unwell
from the effects of the constipation of the bowels. The stools are exceedingly painful. After breakfast, travelled on to our third camp coming down.

Wednesday, May 29
Started at seven o’clock, and went on to the duck-holes, where we breakfasted coming down. Halted there at thirty minutes past nine for a feed,
and then moved on. At the stones saw a lot of crows quarrelling about something near the water. Found it to be a large fish, of which they had eaten a considerable portion. Finding it quite fresh
and good, I decided the quarrel by taking it with me. It proved a most valuable addition to my otherwise scanty supper of nardoo porridge. This evening I camped very comfortably in a mia-mia, about
eleven miles from the depôt. The night was very cold, although not entirely cloudless. A brisk easterly breeze sprang up in the morning, and blew freshly all day. In the evening the sky
clouded in, and there were one or two slight showers, but nothing to wet the ground.

Thursday, May 30
Reached the depôt this morning, at eleven o’clock. No traces of any one except blacks having been here since we left. Deposited some
journals, and a notice of our present condition. Started back in the afternoon, and camped at the first waterhole. Last night being cloudy, was unusually warm and pleasant.

Friday, May 31
Decamped at thirty minutes past seven, having first breakfasted. Passed between the sand-hills at nine, and reached the blanket mia-mias at twenty minutes
to eleven; from there proceeded on to the rocks, where I arrived at half-past one, having delayed about half-an-hour on the road in gathering some portuloc. It had been a fine morning, but the sky
now became overcast, and threatened to set in for a steady rain; and as I felt very weak and tired I only moved on about a mile further, and camped in a sheltered gully, under some bushes. Night
clear and very cold.

Saturday, June 1
Started at a quarter to eight a.m. Passed the duck-holes at ten a.m., and my second camp up at two p.m., having rested in the meantime about forty-five
minutes. Thought to have reached the blacks’ camp, or at least where Landa was bogged, but found myself altogether too weak and exhausted; in fact, had extreme difficulty in getting across
the numerous little gullies, and was at last obliged to camp, from sheer fatigue. Night ultimately clear and cloudy, with occasional showers.

Sunday, June 2
Started at half-past six, thinking to breakfast at the blacks’ camp, below Landa’s grave; found myself very much fagged, and did not arrive at
their camp until ten a.m., and then found myself disappointed as to a good breakfast, the camp being deserted. Having rested awhile, and eaten a few fish-bones, I moved down the creek, hoping by a
late march to be able to reach our own camp, but I soon found, from my extreme weakness, that that would be out of the question. A certain amount of good luck, however, still stuck to me, for, on
going along by a large waterhole, I was so fortunate as to find a large fish, about a pound and a-half in weight, which was just being choked by another which it had tried to swallow, but which had
stuck in its throat. I soon had a fire lit, and both of the fish cooked and eaten. The large one was in good condition. Moving on again after my late breakfast, I passed Camp 67 of the journey to
Carpentaria, and camped for the night under some polygonum bushes.

Monday, June 3
Started at seven o’clock, and, keeping on the south bank of the creek, was rather encouraged, at about three miles, by the sound of numerous crows
a-head; presently fancied I could see smoke, and was shortly afterwards set at my ease by hearing a cooey from Pitchery, who stood on the opposite bank, and directed me around the lower end of the
waterhole, continually repeating his assurance of abundance of fish and bread. Having with some considerable difficulty managed to ascend the sandy path that led to the camp, I was conducted by the
chief to a fire, where a large pile of fish were just being cooked in the most approved style. These I imagined to be for the general consumption of the half a dozen natives gathered around, but it
turned out that they had already had their breakfast. I was expected to dispose of this lot – a task which, to my own astonishment, I soon accomplished, keeping two or three blacks pretty
steadily at work extracting the bones for me. The fish being disposed of, next came a supply of nardoo cake and water, until I was so full as to be unable to eat any more, when Pitchery allowing me
a short time to recover myself, fetched a large bowl of the raw nardoo flour, mixed to a thin paste – a most insinuating article, and one that they appear to esteem a great delicacy. I was
then invited to stop the night there, but this I declined, and proceeded on my way home.

Tuesday, June 4
Started for the blacks’ camp, intending to test the practicability of living with them, and to see what I could learn as to their ways and
manners.

Wednesday, June 5
Remained with the blacks. Light rain during the greater part of the night, and more or less throughout the day, in showers. Wind blowing in squalls from
S.

Thursday, June 6
Returned to our own camp, found that Mr. Burke and King had been well supplied with fish by the blacks. Made preparation for shifting our camp nearer to
their’s on the morrow.

Friday, June 7
Started in the afternoon for the blacks’ camp with such things as we could take; found ourselves all very weak, in spite of the abundant supply of
fish that we have lately had. I myself could scarcely get along, although carrying the lightest swag – only about thirty pounds. Found that the blacks had decamped, so determined on
proceeding to-morrow up to the next camp, near the nardoo field.

Saturday, June 8
With the greatest fatigue and difficulty we reached the nardoo camp. No blacks, greatly to our disappointment. Took possession of their best mia mia, and
rested for the remainder of the day.

Sunday, June 9
King and I proceeded to collect nardoo, leaving Mr. Burke at home.

Monday, June 10
Mr. Burke and King collecting nardoo; self at home, too weak to go out. Was fortunate enough to shoot a crow.

Tuesday, June 11
King out for nardoo. Mr. Burke up the creek to look for the blacks.

Wednesday, June 12
King out collecting nardoo. Mr. Burke and I at home, pounding and cleaning. I still feel myself, if anything, weaker in the legs, although the nardoo
appears to be more thoroughly (?) digested.

Thursday, June 13
Last night the sky was pretty clear, and the air rather cold, but nearly calm. Mr. Burke and King out for nardoo. Self weaker than ever, scarcely able
to go to the water hole for water.

Friday, June 14
Night alternately clear and cloudy, no wind, beautifully mild for the time of year; in the morning some heavy clouds on the horizon. King out for nardoo;
brought in a good supply. Mr. Burke and I at home, pounding and cleaning seed. I feel weaker than ever, and both Mr. B. and King are beginning to feel very unsteady in the legs.

Saturday, June 15
Night clear, calm, and cold; morning very fine, with a light breath of air from N.E. King out for nardoo; brought in a fine supply. Mr. Burke and I
pounding and cleaning. He finds himself getting very weak, and I am not a bit stronger. I have determined on beginning to chew tobacco and eat less nardoo, in hopes that it may induce some change
in the system. I have never yet recovered from the effects of the constipation, and the passage of the stools is always exceedingly painful.

Sunday, June 16
Wind shifted to N., clouds moving from W. to E.; thunder audible two or three times to the southward; sky becoming densely overcast, with an occasional
shower about nine a.m. We finished up the remains of the Rajah for dinner yesterday. King was fortunate enough to shoot a crow this morning. The rain kept all hands in pounding and cleaning seed
during the morning. The weather cleared up towards the middle of the day, and a brisk breeze sprang up in the south, lasting till near sunset, but rather irregular in its force. Distant thunder was
audible to westward and southward frequently during the afternoon.

Monday, June 17
Night very boisterous and stormy. Northerly wind blowing in squalls, and heavy showers of rain, with thunder in the north and west. Heavy clouds moving
rapidly from north to south; gradually clearing up during the morning, the wind continuing equally during the day from W. and N. W. King out in the afternoon for nardoo.

Tuesday, June 18
Exceedingly cold night. Sky clear, slight breeze, very chilly, and changeable; very heavy dew.

Wednesday, June 19
Night calm; sky during first part overcast most of which cleared away towards morning, leaving the air much colder, but the sky remained more or less
hazy all night, and it was not nearly as cold as last night. About eight o’clock a strong southerly wind sprung up, which enabled King to blow the dust out of our nardoo seeds, but made me
too weak to render him any assistance.

Thursday, June 20
Night and morning very cold, sky clear. I am completely reduced by the effects of the cold and starvation. King gone out for nardoo. Mr. Burke at home
pounding seed; he finds himself getting very weak in the legs. King holds out by far the best; the food seems to agree with him pretty well. Finding the sun come out pretty warm towards noon, I
took a sponging all over, but it seemed to do little good beyond the cleaning effects, for my weakness is so great that I could not do it with proper expedition. I cannot understand this nardoo at
all; it certainly will not agree with me in any form. We are now reduced to it alone, and we manage to get from four to five pounds per day between us. The stools it causes are enormous, and seem
greatly to exceed the quantity of bread consumed, and is very slightly altered in appearance from what it was when eaten.