Read The New Persian Kitchen Online
Authors: Louisa Shafia
The New Persian Kitchen (6 page)
Although
you’ll see them listed on Persian restaurant menus, there is really no such thing as an appetizer in Persian cooking. When you visit someone’s home for lunch or dinner, you’ll find bowls of fresh and dried nuts and fruit, as well as small vegetables like baby cucumbers and cherry tomatoes for snacking. There may be a plate of cookies and sweets, too. Still, you’ll have no problem knowing when mealtime proper has begun, as all of the real food—the stews and rice, salads, and yogurt—will come out all at once.
you’ll see them listed on Persian restaurant menus, there is really no such thing as an appetizer in Persian cooking. When you visit someone’s home for lunch or dinner, you’ll find bowls of fresh and dried nuts and fruit, as well as small vegetables like baby cucumbers and cherry tomatoes for snacking. There may be a plate of cookies and sweets, too. Still, you’ll have no problem knowing when mealtime proper has begun, as all of the real food—the stews and rice, salads, and yogurt—will come out all at once.
There’s a method to this madness. From the Persian perspective, you absolutely need the full, combined effect of the tangy yogurt dips, crunchy herbs, refreshing salads, sour pickles, and pliant, toasty breads, all working together to create a symphony of flavor. Stew without pickles, yogurt, and rice? Forget it! Like the sampling of many different tastes on an Indian
thali
plate, or the Korean spread of side dishes known as
banchan
, the point is that everything is meant to be tasted
together
. What’s more, the resulting spread turns the Persian table into a gorgeous collage of colors, textures, and shapes.
thali
plate, or the Korean spread of side dishes known as
banchan
, the point is that everything is meant to be tasted
together
. What’s more, the resulting spread turns the Persian table into a gorgeous collage of colors, textures, and shapes.
Most of the dishes in this chapter can be prepared ahead of time, and they’ll taste even better after sitting for a few hours or a day. This makes it easy to prepare several of them for a single meal. In fact, a liberal sampling of these light dishes will make a satisfying lunch or dinner by itself, with no real need for a main course. Try starting with a platter of
sabzi khordan
, the
assortment of
fresh herbs, cheese, and bread
described in this chapter. Build from there with one of the brightly colored spreads, like the fuchsia
Yogurt with Beets
, the red
Turkish Roasted Tomato and Red Pepper Dip
, or the yellow-orange
Garlicky Eggplant and Tomato Spread
.
sabzi khordan
, the
assortment of
fresh herbs, cheese, and bread
described in this chapter. Build from there with one of the brightly colored spreads, like the fuchsia
Yogurt with Beets
, the red
Turkish Roasted Tomato and Red Pepper Dip
, or the yellow-orange
Garlicky Eggplant and Tomato Spread
.
All of these, as well as the
Yogurt with Shallots
, can be enjoyed like more familiar Middle Eastern dips such as baba ghanoush and hummus, or they can serve as condiments for other foods.
Yogurt with Shallots
, can be enjoyed like more familiar Middle Eastern dips such as baba ghanoush and hummus, or they can serve as condiments for other foods.
Welcome to the new Persian kitchen; let’s dig in!
whole grilled fava beansFavas are especially rich and creamy beans, and Persians use them often. Peeling fresh favas is tedious, though, which is why I love this straightforward method of cooking and eating the entire bean, pod and all. This is a very casual (read “messy”) dish that is best made in spring when favas first appear and are still small and tender. If you miss the first of the favas, don’t worry, as you can still grill favas that are bigger and more mature later in the season; you just won’t be able to eat the fibrous pods. In that case, rake the pods with your teeth to pull out the beans, like you would with edamame, and you’ll still get the full garlicky flavor of the marinade.
serves 41 pound small, tender fava beans in the pod
2 cloves garlic, finely minced
1 tablespoon dried thyme, or 2 tablespoons fresh thyme
¼ cup grapeseed oil
3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
To remove the strings on either side of the fava bean, cut off the stem with a paring knife and pull it gently down one side of the pod; most of the thick string should come off. Do the same on the other side.
In a large bowl, whisk together the garlic, thyme, oil, and vinegar. Add the favas, season with the salt and pepper, and toss well to coat.
Prepare a hot grill.
Place the favas on the grill in a single layer in batches, if necessary. Grill for 8 to 10 minutes, basting often with the marinade. The pods will char and become soft. Turn them over and cook on the second side for 6 to 8 minutes. Test a pod to see if it’s chewy and if the beans inside are tender. Transfer to a plate and serve warm.
sabzi khordan
A plate of fresh herbs is served at most Persian meals, often taking the place of a salad. Serve this dish as an appetizer, or do as the Persians do and leave it on the table throughout the meal. Toasted spices and olive oil poured over the cheese add a warming boost of flavor.
serves 4 to 68 ounces feta cheese
1 tablespoon coriander seeds
1 tablespoon cumin seeds
1 tablespoon caraway seeds
⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Coarse salt, such as Maldon salt, fleur de sel, or kosher salt
2 bunches whole fresh herbs, in any combination: spearmint, basil, cilantro, flat-leaf parsley, tarragon, dill, chives, marjoram
1 bunch scallions, quartered crosswise, roots removed
6 radishes, trimmed and quartered
Lavash or other flatbread
Drain the feta and place it in a medium bowl. Grind the spices coarsely, if desired. Heat a small skillet over high heat. Add the coriander, cumin, and caraway seeds, and shake the pan continuously until the spices start to release their aroma, about 2 minutes. Immediately transfer to a bowl and pour in the olive oil. Add a pinch of coarse salt. Swirl the spices in the oil and steep for a few minutes. Pour the mixture over the feta. You can even work it in with your hands, gently crumbling the feta, if desired.
Wash and dry the herbs. Trim the stems, but leave them intact. Place the herbs on a large platter in a few fluffy piles. Place the walnuts on the platter, along with the radishes and lavash. Transfer the feta to the platter and garnish it with coarse salt.
For a single serving, pick up a few stalks of herbs. Tear the flatbread into a manageable piece and stuff it with the herbs, walnuts, a small piece of cheese, and a radish or two. Fold and eat like a sandwich.
Note:
To remove
bitterness from the walnuts, place them in a bowl, add boiling water to cover and a pinch of salt, and soak from 1 hour up to overnight. Before serving, drain and rinse until the water runs clear.
winterTo remove
bitterness from the walnuts, place them in a bowl, add boiling water to cover and a pinch of salt, and soak from 1 hour up to overnight. Before serving, drain and rinse until the water runs clear.
squash
fritters with rose petals
Use any winter squash in these fritters: Red Kuri, kabocha, pumpkin, and butternut are just some of the colorful varieties of these versatile vegetables that bumble into markets on wobbly bottoms at the onset of autumn. The recipe calls for chickpea flour, a traditional Persian ingredient that’s available at most natural foods stores, but any flour will do. The batter can be made a day ahead and stored in the refrigerator. A few extra rose petals make a fetching garnish.
makes about 16 fritters½ cup walnuts
2 tablespoons dried rose petals or dried whole rosebuds pulled apart and stems removed
6 scallions, green and white parts, coarsely chopped
2 cups peeled and grated winter squash
2 eggs, beaten
½ cup chickpea flour
1 teaspoon ground cumin
Sea salt
1 cup crumbled feta cheese
Ghee or other recommended
oil for high heat cooking
oil for high heat cooking
Freshly ground black pepper
½ cup thick Greek-style yogurt
Preheat the oven to 250°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
Pulse the walnuts, rose petals, and scallions in a food processor until coarsely ground. Transfer to a large bowl and combine with the squash, eggs, flour, cumin, and 1 teaspoon salt. Mix well and fold in the feta.
Heat a skillet over medium-high heat and add ghee to coat the bottom. Drop in heaping tablespoonfuls of the batter, spacing them 1 inch apart. Cook, turning once, for about 3 minutes per side, until the fritters form a golden crust. You may need to lower the heat slightly as you cook. Drain the fritters on paper towels, then transfer to the prepared baking sheet and keep them warm in the oven until ready to serve.
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