The Perfect Meal (33 page)

Duplessis, Marie, 253

eating with fingers, 129–31

eclade
, 189–90, 193–97

Edward VII, King, 128

eggplant, 66

elephants, 171, 172, 174

Elizabeth II, Queen, 19–20

Éluard, Paul, 207

envisagées
, 9

Escargots dans Leur Tomate Cerise Gratinés au Beurre d’Amande
, 7–8

Escoffier, Daniel, 15

Escoffier, Georges-Auguste, 14–15, 67, 170, 239, 258, 259–72,
260
, 288, 292–93, 344

gamblers’ dinner by, 262–63

Guide Culinaire
, 36–37, 233, 256–57, 258, 269–75, 320

kitchen management system pioneered by, 267

espresso, 321

esprit d’escalier, l’
, 9–10

Essay on Fevers, An
(Huxham), 249

European Institute of History and Culture of Food, 11

Faucigny-Lucinge, Jean-Louis, 207

Fellowes, Julian, 130–31

Figs, Sautéed, as a Vegetable, 362–63

financiers
, 77–78, 80

fish and seafood, 243–44

anchovies, 305–9

anchovy paste, 299–301, 305

Gentleman’s Relish (Patum Peperium), 300–301, 310

Gentleman’s Relish recipe, 357–58

bouillabaisse, 142–44, 150–58,
150
,
152
, 202, 237

recipe for, 358–60

caviar, 55–74

Golden Opulence Sundae, 66–67

packaging of, 65–66

sturgeon, 62–66, 69–74

garum
, 309–10

lampreys, 111–20, 121, 237

mussels, 147–48, 190–93

eclade
, 189–90, 193–97

moules
, 190–93, 237

rascasse, 151, 153, 155–56

Fisher, M. F. K., 176–77, 228

Fitzgerald, Edward, 60

Fitzgerald, F. Scott, 204, 208, 216

Fitzgerald, Zelda, 208

Five Easy Pieces
, 250

Flanner, Janet, 209, 286

flatware, 129–30

Fleming, Ian, 42, 324–25

Florian, 49

Floyd, Keith, 176

Fonds d’Artichauts à l’Italienne
, 21

Forester, C. S., 121

forks, 129–30

forts
(porters), 281–82

For Your Eyes Only
(Fleming), 42

Fouquet, Nicolas, 124

Fouras, 189, 194, 237

Franck, César, 36

Franco, Francisco, 302

Franco-Prussian War, 14, 166, 174, 267,
268
, 292–93

French Regional Cooking
(Willan), 239

French Ways and Their Meaning
(Wharton), 49–50

garum
, 309–10

Gastaud, Alexandre, 271–73

gastronome
, 37–38

gâteau chocolat
, 244

Gâteau Normand au Calvados
, 33, 34

Gay, John, 113

Gekoski, Rick, 1–8

Gentleman’s Relish (Patum Peperium), 300–301, 310

recipe for, 357–58

George V, King, 20

Germany, 13–15

Gide, André, 216

Giotto, 256

glasses, 129

coffee in, 322

Godfather, The
, 141–42

Golden Opulence Sundae, 66–67

Goncourt, Edmond de, 174

Goudeket, Maurice, 205, 209

gourmand
, 37

gourmet
, 37

Gourville, Jean de, 124, 133, 136

Grand Hotel, 263–64

Grand Palais, 2–3,
5

Great Dishes of the World
(Carrier), 292

Greene, Graham, 1–2

Gregory III, Pope, 168

Guetet, Emilie, 214

Guide Culinaire, Le
(Escoffier), 36–37, 233, 256–57, 258, 269–75, 320

Guide des Plaisirs à Paris
, 281, 285–86

Guinan, Texas, 111

Guinea Hen à la Escoffier, 272

recipe for, 360–62

haggis, 182–84

ham, 239

hamburgers, 8, 222–26, 234

Hampton Court, 344

hare, 240–41

Haussmann, Baron, 279, 321

Hemingway, Ernest, 204

Henric, Jacques, 303–4

Henry I, King, 113, 114, 120

Henry II, King, 129–30

Henry VIII, King, 344

herbes de Provence, 210–11, 212, 216

highways, 331–32

Hitchcock Blonde
, 114

hobbyhorse, 339

Hoffman, David, 28–29

Hootkins, Bill, 114–15

Horizon
, 324–25

horse meat, 168, 175, 344

Hotel Pierre, 272

How to Cook a Wolf
(Fisher), 176–77

Hughes, Langston, 273

Hughes, Robert, 61–62

Huxham, John, 249

ice cream:

Golden Opulence Sundae, 66–67

sellers of, 23,
23

île flottante
, 244

Illiers, 81–91,
90

Imperator
, 14

influenza pandemic, 50

Invitée, L’
(Beauvoir), 322

Ionesco, Eugène, 246

Irma la Douce
, 283

I Speak of the City
(Paz), 279

Jackson, Jermaine, 67

Jardin d’Acclimatation, 171

Jarry, Alfred, 31–32

Jean-Marc (friend), 251

Johnson, Samuel, 57

Joyce, James, 22–23

Joy of Pigging Out, The
(Hoffman), 28

Juarès, Jean, 33–34

Jubilee Chicken, 20

Julius II, Pope, 125

Jungle Juice, 44

kangaroo, 176, 347–48

Karl (friend), 39, 44–47, 51–53

kebab, 184–89

Kennedy, John F., 202

Kennedy, Joseph, 202

Kir, 47–51, 53, 214–15, 245

Kir Royal Florian recipe, 357

Kir, Félix, 48

Kroc, Ray, 223

kumis
, 232–33

Kurlansky, Mark, 306

Labouchère, Henry, 172

lamb kebab, 184–89

lampreys, 111–20, 121, 237

lark, 125, 177

Larroumet, Nicole, 115, 118–20, 362

Lauder, John, 98, 100

Léon de Bruxelles, 193

Les Halles, 238, 241–42, 279–82,
281
, 285–88

onion soup outside of,
287

porters in, 281–82

relocation of, 288

Little Prince, The
(Saint-Éxupéry), 214

Loncle, Anne, 215

Long Way Round
, 164–65

Lord of Misrule, 339

Lottman, Herbert, 35

Louis XIV, King, 124, 131–33, 137

Louis XV, King, 63

menu served to, 133–35

Lully, Jean-Baptiste, 132

lumpfish, 66

macarons
, 77–78, 80

Macdonald, Hector, 325–26

MacDonald, Jeanette, 200

Machiavelli, Niccolò, 96

“mad cow” disease, 222

madeleines, 29, 76, 78, 79, 81, 84, 87, 91–92

Mad Max II
, 221

Madonna of the Sleeping Cars, The
(Dekobra), 200

Ma Maison, 230

mandolines, 97

Man Ray, 208, 304

maple syrup schnapps, 45

Marie-Antoinette, 75

markets, 15–17, 22–24, 157, 243

in Antibes, 216–18

in Bergerac, 116–18

Les Halles, 238, 241–42, 279–82,
281
, 285–88

onion soup outside of,
287

porters in, 281–82

relocation of, 288

Marmite, 299

Maroons, 324–25

Mary, Queen, 298

Mathews, Harry, 270–71

Mayle, Peter, 203–4

McDonald’s, 223–26

McGregor, Ewan, 165

McMurtry, Larry, 61

meat, 159–78, 221–22

bear, 176

beef, 219–20, 226

bourguignon
, 243, 255, 258

bourguignon
recipe, 364–66

burgers, 8, 222–26, 234

carpetbag steak, 99

ox, 8, 24, 38, 53, 75, 220–21, 258

ox roast, 326–28, 329–41, 344–51,
349
,
350

scandals connected with, 222

tartare, 226–35

truffles and, 108

dormouse, 164

elephant, 171, 172, 174

ham, 239

haggis, 182–84

hare, 240–41

horse, 168, 175, 344

kangaroo, 176, 347–48

kebab, 184–89

monkey, 172

pork, 7, 163

pigs’ feet, 241

potted, 300

rat, 168, 176

testicles, 164–65

tripe, 164, 170

veal, 164, 219

wolf, 176–77

zoo animals, 171–72,
171

mecs
, 283, 284

Medici, Lorenzo de’, 96, 125

Melba, Nellie, 263

Melba Toast, 263

menus:

author’s Perfect Meal, 353–55

for Louis XV, 133–35

of 1912, 18–21, 25

Voisin Christmas dinner, 173, 175–78

Milhaud, Darius, 200

Miller, George, 221

Millet, Catherine, 303–4, 305, 314

Mine au Poivre, Le, 252–58

Minipalais, 2–6

Mitterrand, François, 127

Molière, 132

Monde, Le
, 10

monkeys, 172

Monte Carlo
(film), 200

Montel, Marie-Dominique, 51, 55–60, 64, 70–71, 103–4, 112, 115, 189, 194–96, 202, 226–29, 234–35, 247–48, 291, 329–39, 343, 345,
350

Montmartre, 239, 286

Cimetiére, 252–53

Montmorency, 238,
238
, 239, 240

Montparnasse, 240, 241

Montreuil, 238

Morris dances, 339

moules
, 190–93, 237

Moulin de Mougins, 212

Mousse d’Écrevisse
, 14

Mouvet, Maurice, 284–85

Murphy, Gerald, 205, 206, 208

Murphy, Sara, 206, 208

mushrooms, 98–102, 115, 239

button, 100

truffles, 95, 97, 103–9

beef and, 108

hunting of, 104–5, 109

wood, 101, 102

mussels, 147–48, 190–93

eclade
, 189–90, 193–97

moules
, 190–93, 237

Mystique de la gare de Perpignan
(Dalí), 302–3

napkins, 130

Napoleon III, Emperor, 166, 174

Newby, Eric, 206

New Yorker, The
, 228, 286, 301

New York Herald, The
, 325–26

New York Times
, 272

Nijinsky, Vaslav, 253

Ninotchka
, 170

Noailles, Marie-Laure de, 207, 304–5

nobility, 125

noisette
, 315–16

Noix de Marcassin Sauce Chasseur
, 20

nostalgie de la boue
, 192

Nouvelle Observateur
, 228–29

Nuoc Mam, 310

onion soup, 241–42, 244, 247–48, 252, 255–56, 274–75, 279, 286–87,
287

making of, 288–92

wine in, 287

On the Origin of Species
(Darwin), 172

ortolans, 126–27,
126
, 181

Orwell, George, 268, 282

Osborn, John, 300

ox, 8, 24, 38, 53, 75, 220–21, 258

roasting of, 326–28, 329–41, 344–51,
349
,
350

oysters, 244

pain Poilâne
, 36

pansies, 1, 6, 7

Paris:

dishes unique to, 237–42

Les Halles, 238, 241–42, 279–82,
281
, 285–88

onion soup outside,
287

porters in, 281–82

relocation of, 288

siege of, 166–76, 321

Paris Diary of Ned Rorem
(Rorem), 141

Parker, Dorothy, 208

Parker, Robert B., 95

pastries, 76–77, 79–80

Patti, Adelina, 263–64

Patum Peperium (Gentleman’s Relish), 300–301, 310

recipe for, 357–58

Paz, Octavio, 279

Peach Melba, 263

Pearl, Cora, 262

pensées
, 10

Peppermint Crisp, 28–29

Perelman, S. J., 41

Perpignan, 301–2, 306, 307

Pershing, John J., 4–5

Petite Cour, La, 108

petit fours, 75–76

Petit Vatel, Le, 139

Petronius, 179–80

pet de nonne
(nun’s fart), 80,
80

Piaf, Edith, 81

Picasso, Pablo, 201, 208, 340

pigs’ feet, 241

pineau, 51

Piping in the Haggis, 182

plateau de fruits de mer
, 154–55, 157, 158

Plath, Sylvia, 64

Pommes de Terre à la Crème
, 36–37

Pope, Alexander, 113

pork, 7, 163