I had been pleased by the number of students who had taken my suggestion and decided to pretend to be the writer's friend and biographerâand, in describing the inner workings of a most unusual son to a most conventional father, had demonstrated a mature sensitivity to Kafka's moral isolation, to his peculiarities of perspective and temperament, and to those imaginative processes by which a fantasist as entangled as Kafka was in daily existence transforms into fable his everyday struggles. Hardly a single benighted literature major straying into ingenious metaphysical exegesis! Oh, I am pleased, all right, with the Kafka seminar and with myself for what I've done there. But these first months with Claire, what hasn't been a source of pleasure?
Before leaving home I had been given the name and telephone number of an American spending the year teaching in Prague, and, happily, as it turns out (and what doesn't these days?), he and a Czech friend of his, another literature professor, have the afternoon free and are able to give us a tour of old Prague. From a bench in the Old Town Square we gaze across at the palatial building where Franz Kafka attended Gymnasium. To the right of the columned entryway is the ground-floor site of Hermann Kafka's business. “He couldn't even get away from him at school,” I say. “All the worse for him,” the Czech professor replies, “and all the better for the fiction.” In the imposing Gothic church nearby, high on one wall of the nave, a small square window faces an apartment next door where, I am informed, Kafka's family had once lived. So Kafka, I say, could have sat there furtively looking down on the sinner confessing and the faithful at prayer ⦠and the interior of this church, might it not have furnished, if not every last detail, at least the atmosphere for the Cathedral of
The Trial?
And those steep angular streets across the river leading circuitously to the sprawling Hapsburg castle, surely they must have served as inspiration for him too ⦠Perhaps so, says the Czech professor, but a small castle village in northern Bohemia that Kafka knew from his visits to his grandfather is thought to have been the principal model for the topography of
The Castle.
Then there is the little country village where his sister had spent a year managing a farm and where Kafka had gone to stay with her during a spell of illness. Had we time, says the Czech professor, Claire and I might benefit from an overnight visit to the country side. “Visit one of those xenophobic little towns, with its smoky taverna and its buxom barmaid, and you will see what a thoroughgoing realist this Kafka was.”
For the first time I sense something other than geniality in this smallish, bespectacled, neatly attired academicâI sense all that the geniality is working to suppress.
Near the wall of the castle, on cobbled Alchemist Streetâand looking like a dwelling out of a child's bedtime story, the fit habitation for a gnome or elfâis the tiny house that his youngest sister had rented one winter for Kafka to live in, another of her efforts to help separate the bachelor son from father and family. The little place is now a souvenir shop. Picture postcards and Prague mementos are being sold on the spot where Kafka had meticulously scribbled variants of the same paragraph ten times over in his diary, and where he had drawn his sardonic stick figures of himself, the “private ideograms” he hid, along with practically everything else, in a drawer. Claire takes a picture of the three literature professors in front of the perfectionist writer's torture chamber. Soon it will be in its place in one of the albums at the foot of her bed.
While Claire goes off with the American professor, and her camera, for a tour of the castle grounds, I sit over tea with Professor Soska, our Czech guide. When the Russians invaded Czechoslovakia and put an end to the Prague Spring reform movement, Soska was fired from his university post and at age thirty-nine placed in “retirement” on a minuscule pension. His wife, a research scientist, also was relieved of her position for political reasons and, in order to support the family of four, has been working for a year now as a typist in a meat-packing plant. How has the retired professor managed to keep up his morale, I wonder. His three-piece suit is impeccable, his gait quick, his speech snappy and preciseâhow does he do it? What gets him up in the morning and to sleep at night? What gets him through each day?
“Kafka, of course,” he says, showing me that smile again. “Yes, this is true; many of us survive almost solely on Kafka. Including people in the street who have never read a word of his. They look at one another when something happens, and they say, âIt's Kafka.' Meaning, âThat's the way it goes here now.' Meaning, âWhat else did you expect?'”
“And anger? Is it abated any when you shrug your shoulders and say, âIt's Kafka'?”
“For the first six months after the Russians came to stay with us I was myself in a continuous state of agitation. I went every night to secret meetings with my friends. Every other day at least I circulated another illegal petition. And in the time remaining I wrote, in my most precise and lucid prose, in my most elegant and thoughtful sentences, encyclopedic analyses of the situation which then circulated in
samizdat
among my colleagues. Then one day I keeled over and they sent me to the hospital with bleeding ulcers. I thought at first, all right, I will lie here on my back for a month, I will take my medicine and eat my slops, and thenâwell, then
what?
What will I do when I stop bleeding? Return to playing K. to their Castle and their Court? This can all go on interminably, as Kafka and his readers so well know. Those pathetic, hopeful, striving K.'s of his, running madly up and down all those stairwells looking for their solution, feverishly traversing the city contemplating the new development that will lead to, of all things, their success. Beginnings, middles, and, most fantastical of all, endingsâthat is how they believe they can force events to unfold.”
“But, Kakfa and his readers aside, will things change if there is no opposition?”
The smile, disguising God only knows the kind of expression he would
like
to show to the world. “Sir, I have made my position known. The entire country has made its position known. This way we live now is not what we had in mind. For myself, I cannot burn away what remains of my digestive tract by continuing to make this clear to our authorities seven days a week.”
“And so what do you do instead?”
“I translate
Moby Dick
into Czech. Of course, a translation happens already to exist, a very fine one indeed. There is absolutely no need for another. But it is something I have always thought about, and now that I have nothing else pressing to be accomplished, well, why not?”
“Why that book? Why Melville?” I ask him.
“In the fifties I spent a year on an exchange program, living in New York City. Walking the streets, it looked to me as if the place was aswarm with the crew of Ahab's ship. And at the helm of everything, big or small, I saw yet another roaring Ahab. The appetite to set things right, to emerge at the top, to be declared a âchamp.' And by dint, not just of energy and will, but of enormous rage. And
that,
the rage, that is what I should like to translate into Czech ⦠if”âsmilingâ“that
can
be translated into Czech.
“Now, as you might imagine, this ambitious project, when completed, will be utterly useless for two reasons. First, there is no need for another translation, particularly one likely to be inferior to the distinguished translation we already have; and second, no translation of mine can be published in this country. In this way, you see, I am able to undertake what I would not otherwise have dared to do, without having to bother myself any longer worrying whether it is sensible or not. Indeed, some nights when I am working late, the futility of what I am doing would appear to be my deepest source of satisfaction. To you perhaps this may appear to be nothing but a pretentious form of capitulation, of self-mockery. It may even appear that way to me on occasion. Nonetheless, it remains the most serious thing I can think to do in my retirement. And you,” he asks, so very genially, “what draws you so to Kafka?”
“It's a long story too.”
“Dealing with?”
“Not with political hopelessness.”
“Î would think not.”
“Rather,” I say, “in large part, with sexual despair, with vows of chastity that seem somehow to have been taken by me behind my back, and which I lived with against my will. Either I turned against my flesh, or it turned against meâI still don't know quite how to put it.”
“From the look of things, you don't seem to have suppressed its urgings entirely. That is a very attractive young woman you are traveling with.”
“Well, the worst is over.
May
be over. At least is over for
now.
But while it lasted, while I couldn't be what I had always just assumed I was, well, it wasn't quite like anything I had ever known before. Of course you are the one on intimate terms with totalitarianismâbut if you'll permit me, I can only compare the body's utter single-mindedness, its cold indifference and absolute contempt for the well-being of the spirit, to some unyielding, authoritarian regime. And you can petition it all you like, offer up the most heartfelt and dignified and logical sort of appealâand get no response at all. If anything, a kind of laugh is what you get. I submitted my petitions through a psychoanalyst; went to his office every other day for an hour to make my case for the restoration of a robust libido. And, I tell you, with arguments and perorations no less involuted and tedious and cunning and abstruse than the kind of thing you find in
The Castle.
You think poor K. is cleverâyou should have heard me trying to outfox impotence.”
“I can imagine. That's not a pleasant business.”
“Of course, measured against what youâ”
“Please, you needn't say things like that. It is
not
a pleasant business, and the right to vote provides, in this matter, little in the way of compensation.”
“That is true. I did vote during this period, and found it made me no happier. What I started to say about Kafka, about reading Kafka, is that stories of obstructed, thwarted K.'s banging their heads against invisible walls, well, they suddenly had a disturbing new resonance for me. It was all a little less remote, suddenly, than the Kafka I'd read in college. In my own way, you see, I had come to know that sense of having been summonedâor of imagining yourself summonedâto a calling that turns out to be beyond you, yet in the face of every compromising or farcical consequence, being unable to wise up and relinquish the goal. You see, I once went about living as though sex were sacred ground.”
“So to be âchaste'⦔ he says, sympathetically. “Most unpleasant.”
“I sometimes wonder if
The Castle
isn't in fact linked to Kafka's own erotic blockageâa book engaged at every level with not reaching a climax.”
He laughs at my speculation, but as before, gently and with that unrelenting amiability. Yes, just so profoundly compromised is the retired professor, caught, as in a mangle, between conscience and the regimeâbetween conscience and searing abdominal pain. “Well,” he says, putting a hand on my arm in a kind and fatherly way, “to each obstructed citizen his own Kafka.”
“And to each angry man his own Melville,” I reply. “But then what are bookish people to do with all the great prose they readâ”
“âbut sink their teeth into it. Exactly. Into the books, instead of into the hand that throttles them.”
Late that afternoon, we board the streetcar whose number Professor Soska had written in pencil on the back of a packet of postcards ceremoniously presented to Claire at the door of our hotel. The postcards are illustrated with photographs of Kafka, his family, and Prague landmarks associated with his life and his work. The handsome little set is no longer in circulation, Soska explained to us, now that the Russians occupy Czechoslovakia and Kafka is an outlawed writer,
the
outlawed writer. “But you do have another set, I hope,” said Claire, “for yourselfâ?” “Miss Ovington,” he said, with a courtly bow, “I have Prague. Please, permit me. I am sure that everyone who meets you wants to give you a gift.” And here he suggested the visit to Kafka's grave, to which it would not, however, be advisable for him to accompany us ⦠and motioning with his hand, he drew our attention to a man standing with his back to a parked taxicab some fifty feet up the boulevard from the door of the hotel: the plainclothesman, he informs us, who used to follow him and Mrs. Soska around in the months after the Russian invasion, back when the professor was helping to organize the clandestine opposition to the new puppet regime and his duodenum was still intact. “Are you sure that's him, here?” I had asked. “Sufficiently sure,” said Soska, and stooping quickly to kiss Claire's hand, he moved with a rapid, comic stride, rather like a man in a walking race, into the crowd descending the wide stairs of the passageway to the underground. “My God,” said Claire, “it's too awful. All that terrible smiling. And that getaway!”
We are both a little stunned, not least of all, in my case, for feeling myself so safe and inviolable, what with the passport in my jacket and the young woman at my side.
The streetcar carries us from the center of Prague to the outlying district where Kafka is buried. Enclosed within a high wall, the Jewish graveyard is bounded on one side by a more extensive Christian cemeteryâthrough the fence we see visitors tending the graves there, kneeling and weeding like patient gardenersâand on the other by a wide bleak thoroughfare bearing truck traffic to and from the city. The gate to the Jewish cemetery is chained shut. I rattle the chain and call toward what seems a watchman's house. In time a woman with a little boy appears from somewhere inside. I say in German that we have flown all the way from New York to visit Franz Kafka's grave. She appears to understand, but says no, not today. Come back Tuesday, she says. But I am a professor of literature and a Jew, I explain, and pass a handful of crowns across to her between the bars. A key appears, the gate is opened, and inside the little boy is assigned to accompany us as we follow the sign that points the way. The sign is in five different tonguesâso many peoples fascinated by the fearful inventions of this tormented ascetic, so many fearful millions: Khrobu/
Î
могиле
/Zum Grabe/To the Grave of/Ã la tombe de/
FRANZE KAFKY
.