Read The Sugar Mill Caribbean Cookbook Online
Authors: Jinx Morgan
Place a rack wrapped with aluminum foil on top of the bricks. Place the scallops on the rack, and cover the pan with a lid or tightly sealed foil. Put the pan in the oven until the scallops are a pale golden brown, about 30 to 40 minutes.
While the scallops are smoking, combine all the salsa ingredients in a bowl. Combine the sour cream and mustard in a small bowl, and thin the mixture, if necessary, with a little water. Put the Dijon cream into a pastry bag with a small tip.
Remove the scallops from the oven, and keep them warm. Raise the oven temperature to 400°.
To make the croutons, melt the butter, and combine it with the seasonings. Brush the bread rounds with the seasoned melted butter, and toast them in the oven until they are crisp and golden.
Place a warm crouton in the center of each plate, and spread some of the salsa across the crouton. Lay some of the scallops on top, and pipe some Dijon cream over the scallops. Sprinkle with minced parsley and chives, and serve immediately.
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Makes 6 servings
Chicken wings are a favorite snack with sundown cocktails in the islands. We like the glossy mahogany glaze that the soy-and-rum marinade gives the wings.
Â
½ | cup soy sauce |
¼ | cup rum |
â
| cup chopped onion |
1 | tablespoon finely grated gingerroot |
1 | garlic clove, minced or mashed |
5 | pounds chicken wings, cut apart at the joints, tips discarded |
¼ | cup melted butter |
3 | tablespoons catsup |
1 | teaspoon sugar |
1 | teaspoon red wine vinegar |
â
| teaspoon freshly ground black pepper |
In a large bowl, stir together the soy sauce, rum, onion, ginger, and garlic. Add the chicken pieces, turn them to coat them well, and cover the bowl. Chill the chicken for 6 hours, turning the pieces occasionally.
Preheat the oven to 325°. Butter a shallow pan. Drain the chicken, and arrange the pieces in a single layer in the pan. In a small bowl, stir together the remaining ingredients, and brush the mixture over the chicken. Bake the wings, turning them once, for 45 to 60 minutes, until they are tender. Serve them hot.
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Makes 15 to 20 appetizer servings
Even though we are surrounded by a sea teeming with fish, occasionally we get a taste for something that doesn't swim through the Caribbean. When smoked salmon is available from one of our purveyors, we jump at the chance to serve our guests this special dish.
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1 | pound smoked salmon |
¼ | cup cold water |
1 | tablespoon unflavored gelatin |
2 | cups heavy cream |
1 | tablespoon lime juice |
2 | teaspoons minced dillweed |
Green Herb Sauce (recipe follows) |
Cucumber slices |
Red or black caviar |
Line each of six metal timbale molds with smoked salmon, using about half the fish.
Put the water into the top of a double boiler. Sprinkle the gelatin over the water, then set the pan over boiling water. When the gelatin has dissolved, remove the top of the double boiler from the heat, and let the mixture cool a bit.
Beat 1½ cups of the cream until soft peaks form, and refrigerate the whipped cream. Purée the remaining smoked salmon in a food processor with the lime juice and dill for about 10 seconds. Add the remaining ½ cup cream, and purée for 10 seconds longer. Add the dissolved warm gelatin, and whirl for 5 seconds. Remove the purée to a mixing bowl. Fold in the whipped cream. Fill the molds ¾ full with salmon mousseline, and refrigerate them for at least 1 hour.
When you are ready to serve, unmold the mousselines onto serving plates. Garnish them with Green Herb Sauce, cucumber slices, and caviar.
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Makes 6 servings
This is an extremely versatile sauce. It's great with almost any fish, and we often use it as a dip for crudités. Spread it on sandwiches to pep them up, or toss it with vegetables and cooked pasta for a great salad.
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1 | cup watercress leaves, firmly packed |
1 | cup parsley sprigs, firmly packed |
1 | shallot or 2 green onions, chopped |
1½ | teaspoons minced fresh tarragon, or ½ teaspoon dried tarragon |
1½ | teaspoons fresh thyme leaves, or ½ teaspoon dried thyme |
½ | teaspoon salt |
¾ | teaspoon dry mustard |
2 | tablespoons white wine vinegar |
1 | egg |
1 | cup vegetable oil |
Purée all of the ingredients except the oil in a blender or food processor. With the motor running, add the oil. Pour it in a slow, thin stream until the mixture has thickened, then faster until all the oil is incorporated.
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Makes about 2 cups
The Hawaiians have their
lomi lomi
, the Tahitians their
poisson cru,
and the Mexicans their
ceviche
. We have borrowed the idea of "cooking" seafood in lime juice from our Caribbean neighbors in Cancun to create this dish using our local conch. Tenderize the conch by pounding it with a mallet until its tissue has broken down.
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2 | pounds fresh conch or thawed frozen conch, cleaned, peeled, trimmed and tenderized (or skinned and boned fresh halibut, tuna, or other firm fish) |
2 | cups strained fresh lime juice |
½ | cup chopped onion |
2 | teaspoons salt |
3 | tomatoes, peeled and chopped |
½ | cup minced green onions |
¼ | cup chopped green bell peppers |
¼ | cup chopped red bell peppers |
1 | cup fresh coconut cream, chilled (see "Coconut Milk or Cream") |
Chopped fresh watercress or parsley |
Chill the conch or fish briefly in the freezer to firm it.
Cut the conch or fish into bite-size pieces. Mix together the lime juice, onion, and salt in a large bowl. Add the conch or fish, and turn it to cover it with the lime mixture. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and marinate the conch or fish at room temperature for about 2 hours, or in the refrigerator for 3 to 4 hours, stirring occasionally.
When ready, the conch or fish will be opaque and firm. Taste it to judge its texture. If it seems too soft, marinate it for an hour or so longer.
Drain the conch or fish, squeezing it slightly to remove excess moisture. Put it in a serving bowl, and add the tomatoes, green onions, peppers, and coconut cream. Toss the mixture together, and garnish with watercress or parsley. Serve the ceviche at once.
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Makes 6 servings
To make coconut milk, pour 2 cups boiling water over 4 cups grated fresh coconut meat, and allow the mixture to stand for 30 minutes. Then strain it through a double layer of cheesecloth that has been rinsed and wrung dry, squeezing to remove all the milk.
To make coconut cream, allow the coconut milk to sit until it separates, and spoon the thickened cream off the top.
You can also make coconut milk with unsweetened dried shredded coconut, substituting dairy milk for the water.
They are called the ABC Islands not only because of the initials of their namesâAruba, Bonaire, and Curaçaoâbut because they are moored closely together in the Caribbean Sea. Dutch is the official language of these
islands, and English is commonly
spoken, but the prevalent idiom is Papiamento, an exotic linguistic blend of Dutch, Portuguese, Spanish, English, French, and African dialects.
Aruba's windswept, rocky terrain rises in the middle to a mere 617 feet. What little vegetation exists is mostly divi-divi trees, twisted and bent to the will of the trade winds.
Predictably, much of the food on
Aruba comes
from the sea, but the bounty of South America is also close by. On this arid island, ironically, more fresh fruits and vegetables are available than on other, lusher Caribbean islands that boast commercial farming.
With the ingredients at hand, cooks on the island developed a cuisine that marries Dutch and African influences. Specialties include kari kari, flaked fish cooked with local seasonings, which is most often served with cornmeal-and-flour
pan bati. Sopito
is a fish chowder made with coconut milk.
Isoba di bestia chiquitis,
a hearty stew of young goat and vegetables, and
funchi,
a fried version of Caribbean cornmeal mush, are also popular. One of Aruba's most unusual dishes is keshi
yena,
for which a whole Edam cheese is skinned, hollowed out, filled with spiced chicken or seafood, then baked.
Bonaire, the farthest east of the little archipelago, is also the least populated and most languid. Bonaire is a meccafor divers: The entire coastline is an underwater park, protecting 84 species of coral and 272 kinds offish. Unprotected varieties often find their way onto plates on this island, where the freshness of seafood is measured in minutes.
Curaçao is the bustling capital of the, Netherlands Antilles. Although the Spanish discovered the island in the fifteenth century, they abandoned it as useless because it had no gold or arable land. When Dutch explorers arrived in 1634, however, they recognized the value of Curaçao's harbor, the seventh-largest natural deep-water anchorage in the world.
The cosmopolitan mix of cultures brought together by the Dutch created a rich culinary amalgam of West Indian, Indonesian, Spanish, African, and European ancestry. Indonesian
rijsttafel
banquets are common, as are
sates,
spicy grilled bits of meat and poultry on skewers served with peanut sauce. More challenging dishes to the timid diner include pickled pigs' ears and iguana soup.
On the quayside along Punda, Willemstad's historic downtown shopping district, schooners tie up to display their wares from Venezuela and nearby islands. Decks of these boats are bright with piles of tomatoes, carrots, leeks, okra, and strange hairy tubers that have made their way across the sea.
The Spanish planted orange trees during their brief tenure on Curaçao, but the sparse rainfall produced small,
sour,
inedible fruit. Much later, though, somebody discovered that the orange rinds yielded an aromatic oil ideal for flavoring drinks, and the liqueur named after the island was born. Still made from the descendants of the Spanish orange trees, today's Curaçao liqueur is produced at Chobola, one of the island's surviving Dutch colonial
landhuis
farmhouses.